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Old Aug 25, 2006, 10:31 AM
an earth bound misfit, I
Basketcase's Avatar
St. Pete, Florida
Joined Sep 2001
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Hi TEOR, while I can't tell you for sure either, before my Moth flew away the stick had been broken and repaired so many times it would be a worthless measurement.

I always just set it so the prop shaft came out of the cowl the correct distance for the prop to clear.

Wayne
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 11:19 AM
I even seen a house fly!
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Montreal!
Joined Oct 2003
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That's pretty much my method too As long as the thrust angles are ok and it balances correctly, you're usually good to go!

K.
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 11:21 AM
Rich
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USA, SC, Lexington
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Like she said
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 11:59 AM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
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Heheheh. Ok, I'll go from there then. I will pull that stick out so mabe I can insert a smaller cf rod in the middle of it and stiffen it up a little. What I really need to do is order up a new gearbox so I can get rid of that carbon rod. I'll post up pics soon once it is back together.
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 03:51 PM
Forever WTTM Pilot #7
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Daytona Beach, Florida, United States
Joined Aug 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamTEOR
Heheheh. Ok, I'll go from there then. I will pull that stick out so mabe I can insert a smaller cf rod in the middle of it and stiffen it up a little. What I really need to do is order up a new gearbox so I can get rid of that carbon rod. I'll post up pics soon once it is back together.
Don't forget that stick is made to break off. If you nose it in and the stick doesn't break... there's nothing to absorb the energy but the rest of the plane.
Here's what I do, Teor. I sand the stick so it is a tight fit. Then, using Basket Case's suggestion, I put only a drop of epoxy on the deep end of the stick. That will hold it in place, but it also makes it very easy to pull the stick all the way out by breaking the bond on the end. If you glue the entire stick in, good luck next time you break it. You'll have to drill holes in the foam around it to break it out and there goes your precious Tiger Moth. Hold the plane and the stick vertical, so the drop of epoxy stays on the end of the stick as you push it in until it seats. THEN, be sure to get your down/right thrust angle correct, and you can epoxy the stick at that angle from outside the firewall.
I'm sure a lot of this is redundant, but it never helps to check the obvious. Be sure to screw your motor to the stick, using a servo screw... and that should do it. I've seen a lot of people who have adapted new mounts of all kinds that mount to the firewall, instead of using the motor stick. They all look and work great until....... you nose the plane in. There's nothing to break off, so count on a bent motor shaft, broken prop and probably broken gear case.
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 04:40 PM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
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Well. It has been over a year now since I have broken a prop or motor mount on my Pico Moth, so I am in pretty good shape. It is all together now, I used hot glue last time to set the round stick into place, but after a year or so it broke free. I still needed to put the battery in the rear pilot area, which I found odd. I guess there is just that much difference in weight from the GWS4ch RX and the AR6000 DX6 RX. None the less if the wind is down a little later I'll take it out for dusk patrol again. Thanks guys and gals.
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 06:14 PM
Elfi Flyer
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Rock Hill, SC
Joined Oct 2002
5,548 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzz
Don't forget that stick is made to break off. If you nose it in and the stick doesn't break... there's nothing to absorb the energy but the rest of the plane.
Here's what I do, Teor. I sand the stick so it is a tight fit. Then, using Basket Case's suggestion, I put only a drop of epoxy on the deep end of the stick. That will hold it in place, but it also makes it very easy to pull the stick all the way out by breaking the bond on the end. If you glue the entire stick in, good luck next time you break it. You'll have to drill holes in the foam around it to break it out and there goes your precious Tiger Moth. Hold the plane and the stick vertical, so the drop of epoxy stays on the end of the stick as you push it in until it seats. THEN, be sure to get your down/right thrust angle correct, and you can epoxy the stick at that angle from outside the firewall.
I'm sure a lot of this is redundant, but it never helps to check the obvious. Be sure to screw your motor to the stick, using a servo screw... and that should do it.
Oooh, nice idea, never thought of that, and I has some weird ideas already cooking up for TM #2. Thanks for the review, and thanks to BC for the original suggestion.

RD
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 06:16 PM
Elfi Flyer
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Rock Hill, SC
Joined Oct 2002
5,548 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryRC
Tried out the new power setup in the Moth this week.

Carbon spar on bottom wing.
Needed to build stronger landing gear.
Eflite 370 BL in GWS 350C gearbox.
Apogee 1200 3S1P
AUW ~16oz

I love this setup. It's by far the heaviest TM I've flown, but flys like a dream. Very slow speed is retained but it can also fly FAST! I can also now fly it in winds that I wouldn't have considered with the last Moth, which was about 10oz. It's a keeper.
Yikes! This set up on a Pico TM????

RD
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 07:10 PM
Registered User
United States, WA, Bonney Lake
Joined Jun 2005
179 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sipprell
Yikes! This set up on a Pico TM????

RD
Must go straight up scary fast, if the wings and tail will stay on!
Doug, As soon as I get my workbench cleared off enough to spread out the wings, I'm gonna start my next moth too. What are you doing for a color scheme?
Thanks Basketcase, for the link. I went through 22 pages of moth pix last night and copied six or seven that I liked. Have also seen some great color schemes on these pages, but they're harder to go back and find.
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 08:06 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
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I like the hollow stick design with the stock stock stick into it. It would work really well I bet if you drilled a hole through both, and then threaded a rubber band through the hole (through both sticks). The rubber band would be a shock absorber, until the solid stick moved as far as it can go. Or why not a "stiff rubber" stick? Someone could get rich if they built a cheap "sacrificial" mount that could be replaced easily (unlike the stock setup). Maybe molded foam or very thin/breakable plastic?

BTW, I think the stock rubber spinner is really good!

I build a prop saver tonight - found a 3mm stainless wing nut at Sear's HW (could not find nylon though, to save weight). The stock nut fits the prop really well (on top of the wing nut). The prop can wobble, but not too easily (just the right amount I hope). I like the fact that the nut will turn the prop, not a rubber band or O-ring.

[QUOTE=TeamTEOR]Well. It has been over a year now since I have broken a prop or motor mount on my Pico Moth, so I am in pretty good shape.QUOTE]
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 08:15 PM
Elfi Flyer
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Rock Hill, SC
Joined Oct 2002
5,548 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by burntstringflier
As soon as I get my workbench cleared off enough to spread out the wings, I'm gonna start my next moth too. What are you doing for a color scheme?
TM #2 will be stock yellow, will remain true to its Tiger Moth roots via the use of a gear box, but will be significantly modified with C/F components, reinforced struts, landing gear, Feiago, etc. Probably use "B" gearing.

TM#3 is the "white" moth kit, and I have yet to decide on the color scheme. There has been some really notable Moth clothes shown on this thread, from John Deere green to the really outstanding liveries produced by LED Kitty and Keith. I have many, many pics saved on the hard drive, and I will make use of the link that BC supplied (tnx, Wayne) for inspiration. Not sure at this moment in time if TM #3 will be DD, via a Lens 25 or geared via a Medussa. Too far down the road to be that specific. TM #1 continues to provide good service.

RD
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 08:35 PM
an earth bound misfit, I
Basketcase's Avatar
St. Pete, Florida
Joined Sep 2001
9,429 Posts
Hi Burntstring and Doug Sipprell, glad to be of some help.

Here's another link with lot's of Tigermoth pics, plus some other DeHavilland birds. that took me a little longer to relocate. (am I the only one who has too many links in my favorites lists? )

http://www.maydown.co.uk/woburn_2003.htm

Wayne
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 09:53 PM
Registered User
Jacksonville, FL
Joined Jun 2006
315 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzz
Don't forget that stick is made to break off. If you nose it in and the stick doesn't break... there's nothing to absorb the energy but the rest of the plane.
Here's what I do, Teor. I sand the stick so it is a tight fit. Then, using Basket Case's suggestion, I put only a drop of epoxy on the deep end of the stick. That will hold it in place, but it also makes it very easy to pull the stick all the way out by breaking the bond on the end. If you glue the entire stick in, good luck next time you break it. You'll have to drill holes in the foam around it to break it out and there goes your precious Tiger Moth. Hold the plane and the stick vertical, so the drop of epoxy stays on the end of the stick as you push it in until it seats. THEN, be sure to get your down/right thrust angle correct, and you can epoxy the stick at that angle from outside the firewall.
I'm sure a lot of this is redundant, but it never helps to check the obvious. Be sure to screw your motor to the stick, using a servo screw... and that should do it. I've seen a lot of people who have adapted new mounts of all kinds that mount to the firewall, instead of using the motor stick. They all look and work great until....... you nose the plane in. There's nothing to break off, so count on a bent motor shaft, broken prop and probably broken gear case.
Neat idea, but I have a question about this. On the three moths I've worked on, the slots in the fuse halves were not all that tight port and starboard on the IPS stick. By this I mean that I glued the stick into the port half, and when i glued the halves together, there was a gap on the starboard half. Not huge, but there. If this is normal, how does the drop of epoxy on the end of the stick technique work. Seems the stick might wobble. Or does the drop of epoxy outside the firewall keep it straight?

Doug
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 09:59 PM
an earth bound misfit, I
Basketcase's Avatar
St. Pete, Florida
Joined Sep 2001
9,429 Posts
Hi Doug, you got it, the epoxy at the firewall holds it in position, and is easy to get to/remove if/when you need to replace the stick.

FWIW, I now prefer to use Polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) instead of epoxy for the stick, it's easier to cut through too.

Wayne
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Old Aug 25, 2006, 11:12 PM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
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Well so much for boasting that I have not bent a shaft or busted a prop in a year or so. But the place where the fuse broke in half last time is where it broke again this time! So much for thick foam safe CA and Flash! LOL. It looks like my Moth #1 is going to need some slow TLC to get it back into shape. On another note.... The motor, gearbox, and everything, including the prop is fine! So does that really count? HAHAHAH. Next time I'll remember to knock on wood as I am typing! As I type this my wife is laughing at me and is enjoying the moment as she watched me type the other post. She felt so bad for me that she had me call around, and I have a new Pico Moth kit that is being worked on (as of 7pm or so). It was the only kit in town and would you believe $49! Oh well, I love this bird, and it is one of the only 3 ch planes I would always want to have in the hangar. The wings from my old kit are in perfect condition, so I will most likely use them with the new fuse and tails.

My mods for Moth #2:
1. Some 3mm CF on the elevator section.
2. Blenderm tape instead of packing tape.
3. GWS glue instead of epoxy for the fuse.
4. Smaller pieces of 3/8 tri-stock on the rear instead of the long 1.5" pieces I used before.
5. Landing gear that is stronger than the stock one and also made with the staping tape mod to keep it from splitting the fuse.
6. I like the idea of the drop of epoxy on the end of the stick and a drop at the firewall.

Electronics:
Two Tower Pro 5gr servos
AR6000 RX
2s700 or 3s740 lipos

I am actually thinking of trying to use one of my 17t Westport CD Rom outrunners since it is a fresh fuse. I am going to need to research mounting pics for that again.
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