As it stands and excuse my ignorance, and I admit you do need at least a laptop, Why can't a lead from the transmitter (buddy box port ) go into USB port in laptop then have laptop sit next to you with a decent joystick USB for you to use. Seems better so have slide joystick throttle with twist handle rudder and normal stick controls, instead of the normal set up of the transmitter. wouldn't it be a matter of the laptop taking over the duty of the slave box? while still utilizing the transmitions from the tramsmitter to the plane? I think I am a bit confused with the DIY applications and how to utilise it. Isn't there a module/interface already produced somewhere on this planet for this ? seems a natural progression for RC flying to me in this day and age.
regards
Sharkzz
just a question ..

@Sharkzz

I think what you're talking about is more related with this thread (there are more about the same subject of using external controls, even a PC to control a regular transmitter).

This thread iis about the opposite: Using a regular TX as a PC joystick to control a PC appliance (typically, a RC flight simulator).

been a few years since I made one of these, so I decided to make a few more using Alessio and Andreas most recent build (from 2007!!) which cuts out a few resisters and has a nice pcb.

I am tired of paying $4 a crystal at the local electronics wherehouse, so I ordered all of my parts from digikey.

The crystals I ordered from Digikey:
(http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/395...ap-ats040.html)

state they have a 20pf load cap. If I use them in the circuit, they cause a power surge on the USB hub, and nothing works.

Plug in one of my series crystals ($4!!) which states that it load cap is "series" and it works fine.

Anyone with more electronics experience than I able to help with these digikey guys work? I imagine I need a different capacitor value on each end of the cystal then the usual 22pf or 27pf.

Thanks!

As far as I was aware there were two forms of timing components, resonators that have built in capacitors and have less accuracy, and standard crystals. However looking at the datasheet for the part you list there appears to be "serial" and "load" versions of it. The 4Mhz serial part number is AST04A according to that sheet.

However if that part you have has built in serial capacitors then placing a couple of 20pf in series should give you 40 or 42pf. Maybe if you replaced the original timing capacitors with straight links it will work with these xtals ??

Yeah, I thought that too. Tried a straight wire across on both leads to ground on the breadboard, and no luck.

I've been toying with Pics for about 5 years, and I never knew until now about "load capacitance" and putting crystals in series vs. parallel:

http://www.oscilent.com/spec_pages/P...t/Load_Cap.htm

Looking at that first equation, and assuming the stray capacitance of the circuit (Cs) is about 5 pF, it looks like two caps at 30 pF might give me the load cap I need to get 4 Mhz out of these crystals.

Or, if I use this equation:

http://www.crystek.com/microwave/app...ateLoadCap.pdf

with Cin and Cout as 5pf, and Cs is 3pf, then I get 29 pF.

I tried some 27pF caps that I have, and that didn't seem to do it. Just for experiment's sake, I'll probably pick up some 30 and 32 pF to see if trial and error will help any of this theory make more sense.

Either way, I think I put them IN SERIES with the crystal wires as usual.

I should have taken some electronic engineering classes in college...

Googling doesn't shed much light on things, and I'm not an expert in to why one type of xtal works and another doesn't. Generally upping the caps to 33pf will provide a more stable but does increase the start up time, but in this instance wouldn't of thought that would matter.

Best info yet is actually on Microchip's manual:

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/e...doc/33023a.pdf

Chapter 2 talks more about oscillation than I ever wanted to know!

Either way, I think I need to toy around with different values, and making C2 > C1 might help oscillation start up faster.

Hi guys.

Anyone got this working on Windows 7?

Mine works fine on XP, but never gets discovered when I plug it into my Windows 7 machine, even though other things do. Sounds like it might be something in either the USB protocol, or maybe a timing issue.

I'm using Alessio's code, so may drop him a message to see if he knows of anything.

I just built several of Alessio's newest code, and it is detected fine under Windows 7Home Premium. Of course, I can't find the game controllers icon to save my life, but it was detected just fine.

Of course, this version of Windows 7 is in test mode so that the newest version of PPjoy works. This allows non-signed drivers to be installed, and the instructions on how to do it are in the newest release of PPjoy.

Norman,

I can't speak for Alessio, but as these interfaces are coded to be identified as a standard USB HID they don't / shouldn't need any 3rd party software to emulate a serial / parallel port.

I can only assume that under windows 7 it's down to some form of security issue, or the USB ports on the machine that it's running on can not provide the voltage levels to power it (especially with laptops). If it is, then check the power settings as I'm sure I've seen an option to power off USB ports under some circumstances. I'm not saying it is the computer, but as Telemachus has the same code running on the same hardware under W7 then it does point to something local

On a general note guys, these projects were written three and a half years ago when Vista was still just a rumor, let alone W7....

But they still work charmingly, and are much more fun to build then buying the crummy alternatives!

Originally Posted by Telemachus

But they still work charmingly, and are much more fun to build then buying the crummy alternatives!

Thanks.... It's rewarding to know that three years or more after we all worked on these things, and with cheap tacky interfaces from the far east now available for less then 10$ there are people like yourself who are still getting enjoyment out of of this thread

Originally Posted by Telemachus

I just built several of Alessio's newest code, and it is detected fine under Windows 7Home Premium. Of course, I can't find the game controllers icon to save my life, but it was detected just fine.

Of course, this version of Windows 7 is in test mode so that the newest version of PPjoy works. This allows non-signed drivers to be installed, and the instructions on how to do it are in the newest release of PPjoy.

Telemachus,

What version of code? 3.3.4? I might have to program a new chip - just to ensure that I have the latest - although as I mentioned it works fine on my XP machine.

My Windows 7 Home Premium machine is a Sony Laptop. Other USB devices work fine - but the interface never gets discovered (doesn't even appear in Device Manager) - so never even get a "can't recognise device" error message.

Malc: Yup, I understand that it's seen as a HID device (and shouldn't require anything else). The laptop I'm using is brand new, maybe I'll have a play with the power settings..

3.3.4, yes. Although I don't know that the code versions should matter. If one sees it, another should.

Other option is take a walk into the local computer retailer or a friend's house and plug it into one of their windows 7 machines. If it pops up, you know its something at a local level.

Toshiba laptop with W7, Compaq with XP, and HP with Vista home all detect both the built one and the breadboarded versions without an issue.

Originally Posted by Telemachus

3.3.4, yes. Although I don't know that the code versions should matter. If one sees it, another should.

Other option is take a walk into the local computer retailer or a friend's house and plug it into one of their windows 7 machines. If it pops up, you know its something at a local level.

Toshiba laptop with W7, Compaq with XP, and HP with Vista home all detect both the built one and the breadboarded versions without an issue.

Thanks for the info.

Looks like I've got to get a new PIC programmer. My last one was a serial port one, and since upgrading the PC I now need a USB one! *sigh*.