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Old Apr 19, 2006, 08:18 PM
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Watervliet, Mich.
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f3b Trinity x-tail bellcrank ?

anyone have a pic of the connector you used to hook up the bellcrank ?

thought i remembered seeing some guys flying these planes in this forum.

thx,
dave hauch
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Last edited by dhauch; Apr 19, 2006 at 08:32 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2006, 08:54 PM
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United States, NV, Henderson
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Here is how I did it. I made a 90 degree bend in the metal part of the push rod to allow it to go around the front mounting bolt. I then bent a ninety with about a quarter inch span from the first bend. Now the rod should be pointing straight toward the back of the fuse. One more ninety back towards the bell crank with a 1/4" span and I was done. The trick is to get what looks like a square question mark. When you mount the tail you slip the push rod into the bell crank. Then install the forward bolt So it is on the side of the push rod that will lock it in place on the bell crank. I will try to get a picture up. I tried to do a Z bend around the bolt without success.
You may want to ask tim ( timming ) how he did it. As he seems to have the Trinity F3B dialed in very well.
Although the internal linkage is a very clean way to go, Tim as well as myself have gone to external linkage for better throw and less slop. Consider this while your in the build stage of the game. I ordered carbon covers from sporter ( standard and sm jelly beans) I went external on the ailerons and used a long arm on the flaps with a jelly bean cover.
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Old Apr 19, 2006, 09:10 PM
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thanks, yeah a pic would be great, even a simple drawing.

yeah, I'm bottom driving flaps for sure, might stay inside with the ailerons, and using Sporters covers.

dave hauch
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Old Apr 19, 2006, 10:01 PM
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San Diego, CA
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I did a great job internally driving both surfaces, but you need to add some larger control horns for a posative, strong link. Here is a pic of my aileron install
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Old Apr 19, 2006, 10:51 PM
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I just used a straight 90 degree bend in the wire and left it that way. Once the tail is bolted on-- if you have the bend just the right length- it can't come off no matter what anyway. Then the rudder push rod goes down the opposite side where I put a ball socket-- cut the rod out of the rudder the right length-- as the tail is bolted on--slide the rudder wire into the ball socket. Simple, and effective. FWIW
Klienster-- what the heck do ailerons have to do with the tail surfaces??
Timmig

OH!!
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Old Apr 20, 2006, 12:44 AM
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thanks guys for all your help, really appreciate it.

dave
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Old Apr 20, 2006, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seeker
I ordered carbon covers from sporter ( standard and sm jelly beans) I went external on the ailerons and used a long arm on the flaps with a jelly bean cover.
This
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Old Apr 21, 2006, 08:29 PM
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United States, NV, Henderson
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For rudder, I just used a metric ball link that is usually soldered to a V tailrod. It fit perfectly with no slop. It just slides on the rudder rod and can't come off the bottom.
Jon
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Old Apr 21, 2006, 08:51 PM
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here's how i did mine, works great.

dh
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Old Apr 22, 2006, 12:42 AM
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That will work-- why the U shape? I just went straight in with a 90 degree bend-- a little bit of "up" kink for alignment and it was done. Flying it in the VRQ next week.
Tim
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Old Apr 22, 2006, 09:33 AM
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well, starting at the carbon rod, the first z-bend is to get it around the front
fin bolt and to center it up.

next bend up is to get get it up to the bellcranck, makes hooking i up a little easier, plus keeps it from rubbing on the boom with max throws.

the last bend goes thru the bellcrank hole.

dh
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Old Apr 22, 2006, 11:08 PM
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The pushrod runs down one side of the fuse past the fin bolt. That alone takes you around it. But looks like your's will work-- just a lot more bending then necessary. Doesn't matter-- as long as it WORKS!! I'll be flying mine at the ISR in Davenport at the end of the month!
Timmig
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Old Apr 22, 2006, 11:58 PM
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