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Old Oct 09, 2007, 08:59 AM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
If I started a pod thread in the electric sailplanes forum would you guys follow it there? I'm feeling that pod talk is dangerously off-topic in this forum.
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Old Oct 09, 2007, 12:21 PM
High Roller designer
Impact's Avatar
Londonderry NH
Joined Mar 2005
1,414 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan Wright
If I started a pod thread in the electric sailplanes forum would you guys follow it there? I'm feeling that pod talk is dangerously off-topic in this forum.
Might be a good idea. I'm going to try a brushed motor and see how that works then go to brushless next year.....Impact
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Old Oct 09, 2007, 12:30 PM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
Power pod discussion thread created in the powered sailplanes forum here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...27#post8326731

Please continue power pod discussions there and use this thread for DLG discussion.

Thanks for all the interest in the power pod!
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Old Oct 09, 2007, 07:39 PM
Registered User
Greenville, SC
Joined Jul 2007
72 Posts
Well, Allan, I finally finished the bird and gave it a toss last Sun. With some launching help/training from fellow Gambler builder/flier Brian Cook, it was everything I expected and more. For those who are still in the build stage and looking for comparisons, here's the specs:

AUW, ready to toss, was 6.2 oz. Pod was glassed with the kit cloth except on top, which got 1 layer of .5 oz. I completely sheeted the top of the pod, applied the glass, then sprayed/sanded 2 coats of primer. That still left a lot of weave showing, so I diluted some lightweight spackle with water until I had a brush-able paste and applied a coat of that. Sanding left a fairly smooth surface so I proceeded with several coats of acrylic lacquer (sanded/wooled) until I was satisfied with the surface. 2 coats of clear lacquer finished it off and gave it a little more protection. After all that, I carefully cut out one hatch the full length of the 2 shown on the plans. I cut down onto the sides of the pod about 1/8 inch, which gave me space to install a lip on the underside of the hatch along its length on both sides. This, along with a tongue in the front and a tiny magnet at the rear, yielded me a strong and positive hatch insertion/removal. Inside the pod, I installed a half former in front of the servos to replace the bracing lost by not using the 3/16 square piece as shown on the plans. During this process, I was monitoring both the weight of the pod by itself and the AUW (of the pieces). The pod went from 21g naked to 32g finished, but the AUW never went past 5.8 oz. All the little stuff that I never weighed (solder, glue, covering, etc.) gave it the remaining .4 oz.

Servos are HS55's with the leads cut to minimum length required; receiver is a Berg microstamp; power is 2 CR2 photo batteries soldered together (by the way, I had to use silver solder/flux on the positive button, it would not tin with lead/acid). I also saved a bit of weight by replacing the steel pushrods with the smallest carbon rods I could find. They are routed inside the tubing from a Dubro micro pushrod system pack. The last inch or so of the assembly is steel; the two pieces are CA'd together, wrapped a few times with kevlar thread, and covered with heat-shrink tubing. Wing and tail feathers are covered with Solite. Balance was spot on with the receiver and battery side-by-side up front, with about 5/8 of an inch left between them and F1.

First flight session lasted about 2.5 hours, I would estimate 50-60 throws, including a fair number with thermal duration (and a few hand catches thrown in for good measure). What a great bird !! I'm sure glad I picked this layout for my first DLG. I can't imagine a better way to start. (Now if I was just strong enough to discus launch my 20-year old Sailaire......)
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Old Oct 09, 2007, 08:05 PM
Life is Good!
Tank52's Avatar
Germany
Joined Apr 2005
1,200 Posts
Post a few pics....please.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mocgp
Well, Allan, I finally finished the bird and gave it a toss last Sun. With some launching help/training from fellow Gambler builder/flier Brian Cook, it was everything I expected and more. For those who are still in the build stage and looking for comparisons, here's the specs:

AUW, ready to toss, was 6.2 oz. Pod was glassed with the kit cloth except on top, which got 1 layer of .5 oz. I completely sheeted the top of the pod, applied the glass, then sprayed/sanded 2 coats of primer. That still left a lot of weave showing, so I diluted some lightweight spackle with water until I had a brush-able paste and applied a coat of that. Sanding left a fairly smooth surface so I proceeded with several coats of acrylic lacquer (sanded/wooled) until I was satisfied with the surface. 2 coats of clear lacquer finished it off and gave it a little more protection. After all that, I carefully cut out one hatch the full length of the 2 shown on the plans. I cut down onto the sides of the pod about 1/8 inch, which gave me space to install a lip on the underside of the hatch along its length on both sides. This, along with a tongue in the front and a tiny magnet at the rear, yielded me a strong and positive hatch insertion/removal. Inside the pod, I installed a half former in front of the servos to replace the bracing lost by not using the 3/16 square piece as shown on the plans. During this process, I was monitoring both the weight of the pod by itself and the AUW (of the pieces). The pod went from 21g naked to 32g finished, but the AUW never went past 5.8 oz. All the little stuff that I never weighed (solder, glue, covering, etc.) gave it the remaining .4 oz.

Servos are HS55's with the leads cut to minimum length required; receiver is a Berg microstamp; power is 2 CR2 photo batteries soldered together (by the way, I had to use silver solder/flux on the positive button, it would not tin with lead/acid). I also saved a bit of weight by replacing the steel pushrods with the smallest carbon rods I could find. They are routed inside the tubing from a Dubro micro pushrod system pack. The last inch or so of the assembly is steel; the two pieces are CA'd together, wrapped a few times with kevlar thread, and covered with heat-shrink tubing. Wing and tail feathers are covered with Solite. Balance was spot on with the receiver and battery side-by-side up front, with about 5/8 of an inch left between them and F1.

First flight session lasted about 2.5 hours, I would estimate 50-60 throws, including a fair number with thermal duration (and a few hand catches thrown in for good measure). What a great bird !! I'm sure glad I picked this layout for my first DLG. I can't imagine a better way to start. (Now if I was just strong enough to discus launch my 20-year old Sailaire......)
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Old Oct 09, 2007, 11:50 PM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
Moc - thanks for the great story and kind words. I'd be interested to see a photo of your painted pod.
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Old Oct 10, 2007, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Greenville, SC
Joined Jul 2007
72 Posts
OK, it will probably be Thursday evening before I can get some pics up but I'll be glad to share some.
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Old Oct 11, 2007, 08:27 PM
Registered User
Greenville, SC
Joined Jul 2007
72 Posts
OK, here are a few pics. You can just make out the carbon fiber strip underneath the finish. I also included a close-up of the carbon-to-steel linkage on the elevator.
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Old Oct 11, 2007, 09:03 PM
Life is Good!
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Germany
Joined Apr 2005
1,200 Posts
Great shots..thanks for the photos!
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Old Oct 12, 2007, 08:55 AM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
Very nice job. Thanks for sharing!
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Old Oct 15, 2007, 02:26 PM
Somewhat in this hobby
AeroD79's Avatar
United States, CA, Irvine
Joined Mar 2002
309 Posts
Hello, Do i need to add a vertical reinforcement on the fuse sides where the BLind nut is located? it seems like it necessary. But i would like to make sure
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Old Oct 15, 2007, 02:31 PM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroD79
Hello, Do i need to add a vertical reinforcement on the fuse sides where the BLind nut is located? it seems like it necessary. But i would like to make sure
If you have a good glue joint and have filled in the gap between the plywood pieces and the boom with balsa wet with CA you shouldn't need any vertical reinforcement. The reason I use a 4-40 bolt, is so during a mishap, the bolt will fail before the airframe. In practice this system has been very good at preventing unnecessary damage.

Time to replace a 4-40 bolt - 10 seconds.

Time to repair or replace a broken wing or fuselage - much more than 10 seconds.
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Old Oct 15, 2007, 03:08 PM
Somewhat in this hobby
AeroD79's Avatar
United States, CA, Irvine
Joined Mar 2002
309 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan Wright
If you have a good glue joint and have filled in the gap between the plywood pieces and the boom with balsa wet with CA you shouldn't need any vertical reinforcement. The reason I use a 4-40 bolt, is so during a mishap, the bolt will fail before the airframe. In practice this system has been very good at preventing unnecessary damage.

Time to replace a 4-40 bolt - 10 seconds.

Time to repair or replace a broken wing or fuselage - much more than 10 seconds.

Thanks, you can disregard the voicemail I left earlier. My name is J.P.
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Old Oct 24, 2007, 01:27 AM
Somewhat in this hobby
AeroD79's Avatar
United States, CA, Irvine
Joined Mar 2002
309 Posts
all of major construction and covering are done i just have to align the tail , install servos and pushrods.

THe preliminary weight with all stuff dropped in is at 6 and 1/8 oz!
the pics are at
http://picasaweb.google.com/aerodee/...15THe40thPlane
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