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Old Nov 30, 2009, 01:39 PM
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mr ray's Avatar
Canada, BC, Kamloops
Joined Dec 2008
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Thanks for the encouraging words Allan. A sock sounds like a good idea and I will get one..Ray
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 01:54 PM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
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Originally Posted by mr ray View Post
Thanks for the encouraging words Allan. A sock sounds like a good idea and I will get one..Ray
If your local hobby shop is not nearby, buy two. They last between 1-3 planes before they blow out or get soiled. Luckily they're cheap. If you or your wife is handy with a sewing machine, once you see how they're designed, they're probably easy enough to make. The next time I wear one out I know I'm going to ask my lovely wife if she's interested in trying to replicate them on her new sewing machine

Hopefully I survive the experience.
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 02:01 PM
Stuart
srnet's Avatar
UK, Cardiff
Joined Dec 2008
3,160 Posts
I have not had a lot of luck with the hairy CF.

I dont have a can of 3m 77 to hand and the spray adhesives I had (of the type you might use for making foamies) just dont work. Cant get the adhesive down in a fine enough mist, the CF becomes too sticky and you cant trim the hairs without making it worse.

I have managed to add the CF to the fuse, and it is easy to apply the superglue, the wax paper on the finger bit works a treat.
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 02:07 PM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
The good thing about the Super77 is it dries to a barely tacky state. It also sprays in a fine spray. I've liked it a lot I haven't used many other similar products. I'm not sure any of the similar products are as good, at least most people I talk to are like me and always use the 3-M spray.

Let me know by e-mail if you need me to send you some additional CF for another try.
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 02:09 PM
Stuart
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UK, Cardiff
Joined Dec 2008
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One think puzzles me about the wing, I made a note when going through the thread (yes all of it) that someone had managed to get wing assembled and sanded, but before the CF and covering, at 36g.

Hows that done, given that the weight of the balsa parts I used was 57g or so.
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 02:15 PM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
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Originally Posted by srnet View Post
One think puzzles me about the wing, I made a note when going through the thread (yes all of it) that someone had managed to get wing assembled and sanded, but before the CF and covering, at 36g.

Hows that done, given that the weight of the balsa parts I used was 57g or so.
Well balsa density varies greatly. I TRY to get my suppliers to send me 6-8 lb wood, but that's not always possible. I seriously doubt that there's a 20g difference between kits though. Maybe there's some difference in accuracy of scales or something else is going on. Also, if you're weighing all of the 1/32 sheeting, you'll be cutting off about 1/3 of each of those sheets when you make the wing. Also if you're weighing the balsa boards the parts come in, there's a lot of wood in them that doesn't end up as airframe. I know it doesn't look like there's a lot of wasted wood on the sheets (that's the plan at least) but they're only about 60% parts. The rest is waste.

I will say that I've seen several completed Gamblers reported to weigh under 6 oz. complete, ready to fly, and a couple under 5.5 oz. I consider anything under 6 oz. unobtainable for me, and I've build over 30 Gamblers. There are some amazing builders out there, that's for sure. Don't worry too much about weights. I fly at 6.5-6.75 ounces and I consider that pretty optimal. Much under 6.5 oz. and you're going to have to ballast almost 100% of the time.
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 03:41 PM
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Canada, BC, Kamloops
Joined Dec 2008
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Your elevator setup

Hi John 255, Could you take a picture or 2 or 3 of your set-up for the elevator for me please? Where you have the push rod coming out of the pod and the Q tips where you have them placed etc. Thanks ..Ray
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 06:33 PM
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Diesel 48's Avatar
USA, MI, Zeeland
Joined Sep 2006
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Is there a trick or a method to mount the stabilizer level with the wing and perpendicular to the rudder? I am having a difficult time doing this before gluing the joint. Any advice would be appreciated!
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 07:08 PM
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Teezer's Avatar
Pagosa Springs, CO
Joined Jul 2007
240 Posts
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Originally Posted by Diesel 48 View Post
Is there a trick or a method to mount the stabilizer level with the wing and perpendicular to the rudder? I am having a difficult time doing this before gluing the joint. Any advice would be appreciated!
I did mine by turning it upside down on my workbench with the fin hanging over the edge. The stab was flat on the surface of the workbench, and I put a piece of pipe crossways under the the cut-out for the wing seat so it was even with the top of the bench as well. You may have to put a shim beneath the leading edge of the stab if the pipe (or other crosspiece) is larger (diameter) than necessary.

Terry
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 08:10 PM
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Canada, BC, Kamloops
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Hi Diesel 48, I put two identical jars under each wing with the plane upside down and another under the stab. Then I measured the wing at the dihedral breaks to the top of the table to make sure they were the same, they were so I measured the stab at the tips where the elevator meets the stab and adjusted the stab until each side of the stab was the same height off the table.Then make sure the stab and the rudder are at 90 degrees from each other. Then I got a 3 ft piece of dowel that I had and measured from each wingtip to each side of the stab again where it meets the elevator and made sure that distance was also identical from each wingtip. Then and only then did I run some thin ca into the saddle and the boom joint. Hopefully that makes sense...Ray
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 08:32 PM
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USA, MI, Zeeland
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How did you temporary clamp the stab to the fuse?
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 08:46 PM
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Pensacola, FL, USA
Joined Dec 2000
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Diesel,
This step is difficult to visualize from words alone. I can shoot a picture in the morning if after you have read the help from the guys and still feel not sure how to approach this step. Let me know.

First and foremost the wing should be mounted to the pod and the plane inverted on a table, or floor if the floor is level. Then its a matter of leveling the boom to the leveled stab so that the boom rest perfectly in the saddle before gluing.

I did not use clamps because without pictures in the instruction I couldn't figure out what type of clamps, or how to mount them.
Regards,
John255
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 08:49 PM
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Pics would be great if you could post them. Thank you so much!
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 08:58 PM
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John's right Diesel, I didn't use a clamp either, couldn't figure out how to...Ray
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 08:21 AM
Gambler-AG DLG Designer
Allan Wright's Avatar
Lee, NH, USA
Joined Jun 2001
5,185 Posts
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Originally Posted by Diesel 48 View Post
Is there a trick or a method to mount the stabilizer level with the wing and perpendicular to the rudder? I am having a difficult time doing this before gluing the joint. Any advice would be appreciated!
I usually just clamp it to the boom, put one level on the wing center panel and one on the stabilizer and line them up so both are level. It might help to clamp the pod/boom to the table when you do this - less moving parts that way. I've also just eyeballed a bunch of them. A carpenter friend of mine once told me these prophetic words when talking about eyeballing things, 'straightest tool in the box'.
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