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Old Nov 21, 2009, 07:16 AM
Out of helis, sanity returning
Tallahassee, FL
Joined Feb 2009
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A guy over in the classifieds has some carbon tow for sale that looks like it might be pretty easy to work with:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1143560

Anyone know if it would be suitable to use on a Gambler? It's pretty cheap and I wouldn't mind using it rather than trying to cut apart the strip that came with the kit. I haven't tried cutting it yet, but it sounds like it's been a little problematic for a few folks.

Rick
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Old Nov 21, 2009, 10:37 AM
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Littleton, CO
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2400RDR View Post
A guy over in the classifieds has some carbon tow for sale that looks like it might be pretty easy to work with:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1143560

Anyone know if it would be suitable to use on a Gambler? It's pretty cheap and I wouldn't mind using it rather than trying to cut apart the strip that came with the kit. I haven't tried cutting it yet, but it sounds like it's been a little problematic for a few folks.

Rick
Rick,

It was actually very easy to cut. All I did was stick my X-acto into my building board and then pulled the ribbon through the blade slowly along the segments. If I remember the segments were in 1/8" increments so you need to cut with 2 segments together. With a good light on the ribbon the segments were very easy to see.

I was a little worried about working with this as well but it actually was very easy this way.

I hope this helps,

Jeff
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Old Nov 21, 2009, 11:08 AM
Out of helis, sanity returning
Tallahassee, FL
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedoug View Post
Rick,

It was actually very easy to cut. All I did was stick my X-acto into my building board and then pulled the ribbon through the blade slowly along the segments. If I remember the segments were in 1/8" increments so you need to cut with 2 segments together. With a good light on the ribbon the segments were very easy to see.

I was a little worried about working with this as well but it actually was very easy this way.

I hope this helps,

Jeff
If I had the segmented stuff I'd definitely use it. What came with my Gambler is a sort of hairy 1 inch wide strip with no segments or anything to use as a cutting guide (photo attached). I believe Allen said that the segmented ribbon became unavailable.

What attracts me to the tow in the classifieds is that it's already in a nice 1/4" wide strip- no cutting necessary. Anything to make it easier for a newb (myself)

Rick
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Old Nov 21, 2009, 11:11 AM
Red Merle ALES
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United States, Mt, Helena
Joined Apr 2002
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https://www.acp-composites.com/searc...keep_https=yes

This is what I used for my scratch built Gambler.

I can take a photo of the package and the Carbon if you'd like.

Curtis
Montana
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Old Nov 21, 2009, 02:05 PM
Registered User
Pensacola, FL, USA
Joined Dec 2000
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Rick,
There are several ways to do the 1/4" cuts in the CF.

Below is another way if you are concerned about cutting straight.

The only piece I had is only about a foot long, but this will work for any length.

Now if you do this on the dining room table and cut a nice grove in the finish You might as well go straight to the couch.

Good luck,
John255

P.S.
Tape the straight down in three places to keep it in place for the long cut. This also keeps you from cutting off your finger tips in case you want to play the banjo some day.
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Old Nov 21, 2009, 02:22 PM
Out of helis, sanity returning
Tallahassee, FL
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John255 View Post
Rick,
There are several ways to do the 1/4" cuts in the CF.

Below is another way if you are concerned about cutting straight.

The only piece I had is only about a foot long, but this will work for any length.

Now if you do this on the dining room table and cut a nice grove in the finish You might as well go straight to the couch.

Good luck,
John255

P.S.
Tape the straight down in three places to keep it in place for the long cut. This also keeps you from cutting off your finger tips in case you want to play the banjo some day.
Thanks John-

I had actually considered doing just what you suggested, so if you say it'll work, I'll give it a try.

That precut quarter inch stuff was just pretty irresistible

Rick
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Old Nov 21, 2009, 02:24 PM
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Canada, BC, Kamloops
Joined Dec 2008
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Hi John255, I wish someone had shown that when it came time for me to cut my cf. The only thing I would add is if it is like mine was,(it kind of resembled a squirrels tail) then use a little spray adhesive on the cf first. It really help to control all the loose fibres...Ray
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Old Nov 21, 2009, 02:50 PM
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Pensacola, FL, USA
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Hello Rick, and Ray,
Well we've already discussed the need for many, many more pictures.

And, I have to be careful because I don't want to get between Allan and his customers.

However, what I had hope for was that the shooting would start right away, and thats why I posted the mini-how-to on photos, because as you do them they get easier, but I got no response.

I built my Gambler several years ago and the material at that time was very easy to rip apart into 1/4" strips. Sounds like from you Ray and and from Rick's pictures that the material has changed.

BTW, I never understood clearly until I saw the shots. Pictures tell the story in all languages. Words only give us hints that can go many ways!!!!

The spray adhesive sounds OK if kept light. You want the fibers to remain open so the thin CA can saturate and bond to the wood.

Good luck guys and hang in there....it's worth it!!
John255
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Old Nov 22, 2009, 06:29 AM
Stuart
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UK, Cardiff
Joined Dec 2008
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Some thoughts on covering Gamblers.

The advertised weight difference between SoLite and Profilm Light does appear to be significant, 20g/Msq versus 38g/Msq. So I can see why the SoLite is often recommended. The reality is different I found, these are the measured weights of actual film;

SoLite translucent 29g/Msq
Solite solid black 34g/Msq
Profilm Light translucent (Oracover) 39g/Msq
Profilm translucent (Oracover) 58g/Msq

I found Profilm light a lot easier to apply than the Solite, it takes heat better and shrinks more. I have found that Solafilm (the heavier version of SoLite) sags a fair bit in hot weather, whilst Profilm sags very little.

The weight penalty of using Profilm light on a Gambler wing over SoLite would be 5g or so, rather than 10g based on advertised figures.
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Old Nov 22, 2009, 03:00 PM
Out of helis, sanity returning
Tallahassee, FL
Joined Feb 2009
2,102 Posts
A little trick for setting the wing

When it comes time to make the hole for the wing hold down bolt, the plans call for using a toothpick or sharpened stick to make an impression for the drill.

Since the supplied nylon bolt is far too long anyway, you can cut off about a half inch, grind a point on it, screw it into the hold down tee nut and get a very nicely centered impression for drilling the hole through the TE.

Works like a charm.

Rick
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Old Nov 22, 2009, 03:05 PM
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Pensacola, FL, USA
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That's a good one Rick!!!
And the picture is good too.
Cheers,
John255
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Old Nov 22, 2009, 03:26 PM
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Canada, BC, Kamloops
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Hey Rick, That's using the old noggin!..Ray
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Old Nov 22, 2009, 09:22 PM
It's a mere flesh wound!
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Woodstock,Ga.
Joined Jun 2004
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The pointy bolt method also comes in real handy when you are putting a new wing on a DLG that you have been flying for a while. I've also used it to mark a second wing when I wanted to use two different wings on the same fuselage.

I've found that I get better results by using a metal (Steel or Aluminum) bolt with a point ground on it to mark the wing. The threads on the nylon bolt have enough drag in the t-nut that it's sometimes hard to back it back out after marking the wing when all you have to grab hold of is the little pointy end. You can easily back a metal bolt back out with your fingers.

The drag on the nylon bolt makes it a better choice for the wing bolt because it stays tight and doesn't require constant retightening as a metal bolt sometimes does.

Buddy
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Old Nov 23, 2009, 12:08 PM
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Pagosa Springs, CO
Joined Jul 2007
240 Posts
Speaking of the nylon bolt, mine broke on a hard landing on Saturday. No other damage, so I figured that I could zip over to the local Ace hardware and pick up another one real quick. Nope. Ace had nylon bolts, but not that small.

So, I flew on Sunday with a metal bolt (a donation from one of the helicopter guys), but I wanted to replace the nylon one for safety. I found a pack of 100 on Amazon for a couple of bucks (and free shipping because I was buying something else that was much more expensive), so now I'll have a supply of nylon bolts that will outlast the Gambler.

That brings me to a suggestion for Allen. Since the nylon bolts are so cheap, yet so inconvenient to buy, why not include a couple of extras in the kit? They are a part that's expected to fail, after all.

Terry
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Old Nov 23, 2009, 12:45 PM
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Pensacola, FL, USA
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Terry,

Your experience is the first I've heard anyone shearing the nylon.

There was a thread on the subject and I think the conclusion was the LE CF pin(s) absorbed most of the force and it was questionable that the nylon screw could ever be sheared.

Most of the hardware stores don't stock smaller than 6-32, and the supplied screw is 4-40. Another way to solve the prob would be to move to 6-32.

In one of my spectacular crashes everything went except the screw.
Regards,
John255
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