Originally Posted by Claude G. Vest

See the discriptions by the pictures.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Tight Turns,

Claude

Claude, I really appreciate the tutorial on sheeting foam cores; I have learned a lot.

I'm about to start on my Sr. Slo Motion.

I particularly like the way you are doing your wing servos,; will try that on my Sr.

Shack

Great job Claude

Once again....


Don
From OZ

Originally Posted by Claude G. Vest

See the discriptions by the pictures.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Tight Turns,

Claude

I see you used Elmer's "Ultimate"- can't find it. I wonder if "Gorilla Glue' will work? Description sounds like it expands with water......

Shack

Originally Posted by Shack

I see you used Elmer's "Ultimate"- can't find it. I wonder if "Gorilla Glue' will work? Description sounds like it expands with water......

Shack

They are basically the same stuff, Elmer's bottles used to look like Gorilla Glue bottles and were named Elmer's Ultimate.

Both products dry by absorbing water, if you don't put water on at least one surface during the winter, it won't dry at all.

In the summer here in Indiana, AKA Humidiana, I accidentally left a bottle of the stuff open. Next day it had foamed up out of the bottle and across my building board.

When using Polyurethane glues like Gorrilla Glue, or Elmer's version, you must clamp the work tightly together otherwise they will be pressed apart by the glue expanding.

Thus this is why I ran a bead of epoxy down the center of the landing gear mount. The epoxy sets first, and keeps the part from being shoved out. The tape is to try and contain any glue that works it's way to the surface. (It doesn't always work.)

But one good thing about Poly-U glues, they sand much easier than almost any other glue I know.

Tight Turns,

Claude

For those who are going to be using the partial sheeting method for foam wings.

i.e. A four inch wide sheet on the Leading edge top and bottom, and a two inch wide sheet top and bottom for the Trailing edge, sheeting connecting those two pieces for about 6-8 inches in the center section, then Capstrips out to the wingtip. (SEE THE CONSTRUCTION ARTICLES FOR SOME OF THE LATER AND EARLIER SIMITARS. It gives the illusion of a built up wing.)

Put the first 'Capstrip' butted to the edge of the center section sheeting, then start spacing them out until you get to the wingtip.

I have used both fully sheeted wings, and partially sheeted wings and both appear to be equally strong.

However, I think the fully sheeted wings look better after they're covered.

Although I am tossing about the idea of doing a partially sheeted wing with 1/2 inch wide Capstrips, then cutting the foam out between the strips. I'll then cover the area with transparent film, maybe add LEDs for night flying?

Anyway hope I haven't confused anybody too much.

Tight turns,

Claude

Hey, Claude! I'm hoping your next installment will give more detail on the way the wing servo mounts get installed in the wing.

Shack

I usually do both wings at the same time, but since this plane is so big I'll need a few days to do the same to the other wing panel.

Once I get the other wing to the same stage this one is in, I'll show my super secret method of carving and shaping the leading edge.

Tight turns,

Claude

Sorry I'm dragging my feet building this plane.

I'm trying to time the completion with the final purchase of the covering materials.

End-Grain triangle stock video here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=432366

You can'd finish the wing without a mostly finished fuselage.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Tight Turns,

Claude

I forgot to take pictures, of the joined wing panels, the wing panels are held together in place until the epoxy and micro-ballon slurry sets.

Then blue painters tape is wrapped around the joint to hopefully prevent the Poly-U glue from oozing out too much.

Don't worry if you're joint isn't perfect, as long as the wing panels line up, the Poly-U glue will fill all the gaps.

If it doesn't, just add more Poly-U glue and retape.

I have used this method of joining the wing panels on almost all of my models.

It is almost strong enough I have wondered if I really needed to fiberglass the center section.

Post any questions you may have here.

Tight turns,

Claude

NEVER SAND THE FUSELAGE ROUND BEFORE THIS STEP!

It is much easier to line up the wing if the fuselage is still square.

You only have one chance to get the wing lined up to the fuselage.

After you think you've got it lined up, leave it and take a break for a few minutes.

Come back and scrutinize your work with extra scrutes before you drill the holes and make the cuts!

Advantages of not installing the bottom fuselage sheeting can be observed in photos.

Deviating from plans: Wing hold down dowels installed in wing, not in fuselage former F2.

I have done all my Simitars this way, I simply do not trust that joint as shown on the plans.

Please Post any questions here!

Tight Turns,

Claude

Filling in the voids in the glue and blending the wing and fuselage.

Steps best done before the fuselage is rounded.

Work on this project is slowing.

I am my club's president, flight instructor, event planner, etc.

Next posting will show the wing and fuselage after all the sanding and filling is done.

I'll be adding carbon fiber to the wing center section.

Then I'll show my methods for reinforcing wing center sections with fiberglass cloth and water-based polyurethane varnish.

Tight turns,

Claude

The carbon fiber probably isn't nessessary, but I had it left.

I'll end up with 4 layers of 3/4 oz fiberglass top and bottom.

It will take a while, the water-based poly-u takes a couple of days to dry.

Do one side of the wing at a time, the poly-u can and does run and drip and it is a %^#$#$ to try to sand flat again.

In the mean time I'll be trying to build the elevons. (Unless anybody has some 5/8 inch by 4 inch by 48 inch elevon stock?)

Please post any questions you have here.

Tight turns,

Claude

Mcclain wing cores is selling several cores for these planes. I was dumfounded when I saw the Saracen cores listed on his ebay store http://cgi.ebay.com/RCM-Saracen-Foam...QQcmdZViewItem

He also has the skywalker listed

http://cgi.ebay.com/RCM-Skywalker-40...QQcmdZViewItem

and the Duece

http://cgi.ebay.com/SIMITAR-DEUCE-FO...QQcmdZViewItem

Prices are reasonable, esp. considering the quality of the stuff I have gotten from them as well as the time involved with getting it right cutting your own!

I have a saracen bug a bitting, I had a flying buddy with one of these when I was in school. It flew just so elegantly. I think a nice inrunner with an inline gearbox would do this plane justice!

pHIL

CLAUDE

It is so nice to see someone working so skillfully with the balsa!

I have been building with foam for so long now I think in blue, charcoal and white 1/4" sheet! \

Your building thread is an inspiration!

Good luck and thanks

I was delighted to find I could get foam cores & plans from the AMA Plans Service for the Sr. Slo Motion, so I made my order [$53.00]

After a 3-4 week wait, they arrived. Plans were good, cores were for wrong plane. Called them up & they sent the right cores. They were awful! Had 1/8" "gullies" fully span-wise on the top surface. Deep slits cut in both ends of both cores. One wing longer than the other by 3/8". Cores cut with about 1" sweep-back [supposed to be straight]. Cores did not fit saddles.

It took some considerable time to fix all that; I didn't want to wait any longer.

The good news is she's almost ready to cover, all wood is "Balsa-rite"ed, Saito FA-82a is test run & ready to install [it will idle reliably at 1700 rpm].
2.4 Gh radio ready to go in.

Thanks to Claude for the tutorial.

Shack