Hi all,

I was wondering how many consecutive flights you do with your Eco8s (no breaks between flights). I have a Phasor 30/3 bl motor w/ Jeti 40-3P controller. When I flew around with my canopy off, I never had an over-heating problem. After 3 consecutive flights, my heli shut off abruptly (luckily I had it hovering aboout a foot off the ground). The ESC didn't seem too hot, but the motor was untouchable. I have heat sink fins on the motor, but I think the canopy isn't allowing it to cool properly. I was wondering if anyone has modified their canopy to fix this or have any other suggestions. I'm not exactly sure what happened....it was almost like the BEC cut power to the motor because when I returned the throttle to off and gave it power, the heli started back up

Thanks,

Eric

Hello Eric

Three consecutive flights for any helicopter is bad, including nitro helis. Give the heli and your self 5-10 mins or rest before you fly; it is better for your learning and your electronics.

Oh, dont use the BEC on your controller, it has a cutoff. I remember on the HL site that you are supposed to leave the switch off and plug in an RX pack.

As for cooling, I have seen canopies with a hole right above the motor and in front of the part of the canopy and covers the end of the pack. You can also add a PC cooling fan and that should help your motor stay cool.

Carlo

I was wondering how many consecutive flights you do with your Eco8s (no breaks between flights).

None that are back to back.

Like Carlo said, it's just not "good" for your electronics. Right now I'm using your same ESC/motor combo on my Eco 8 but with no heatsink. Although my motor & ESC only get warm after a single flight, I still let it rest for at least 10 minutes before flying again.

All right.. maybe 5 minutes if I'm in a hurry . But that's only because this setup doesn't get my motor burning (only warm) and I only fly two consecutive flights at a time (now that I got my Logo10).

If I do three consecutive flights, then I definitely let the motor cool down to almost ambient temperature or 10+ minutes in between each flight.

Good luck!

Chachin..

Thanks guys,

I kind of thought you were going to say that.

Carlo,

Just so you know, when using my motor/esc setup, I have not experienced any problems with the BEC. The BEC doesn't cut out until the heli doesn't have enough juice to fly.

Chachin,

You should have seen Gary Wright fly his logo20 at SEFF. That is an impressive ship. He preformed an auto at the end that was quite impressive. Wish I would have made a video of the demo.

Thanks again,

Eric

Oh, BTW

Have you guys considered installing a Hacker C40 in your ECO (or any other hacker)?

Eric

It really depends on the flying situation; if your just hovering you BEC is fine.

Here is a situation:

You have to bail out and you nail the collective. Note you are about you have have already been flying for about half of your pack. The load of the motor makes the voltage drop momentaraly to the cutoff and your ESC shuts off.


This actually happened to me, but I was using my Kontronik in airplane mode when it happened. Lucally I had the auto gear installed and I wasnt too high and I got my heli level.

Carlo

Hello

I have a B50-11L comming and it looks like it is going to be a hell of a motor for the Eco 8. I am really going to let it rip with this motor installed.

I know from other sites that the B50-14L is a good all around(basic flight and acro) motor.

Im pretty sure that the B50-11L to 15L are all very good motors for the Eco 8(which one depends on pack used and pinion). Also, the B50-18S is a good motor for the Eco 8 according to Kontronik and other who use the motor. I have read that the B50-14S-19S are good motors for the Eco 8(which one depends on pack used and pinion).

Personally I think the B40-xx are too small for the Eco 8.

Here is a lot of motor test data in various helicopters including the Eco 8. It is definitally worth looking over.

http://www.dokidoki.ne.jp/home2/tohrus/motorindexE.html

Carlo

Yeah, I can see that happening. It seems like the voltage has to get pretty low before the BEC cutout with the Phasor and Jeti. For example, when I was learning to hover, you could nail the collective (when the battery was getting low) and it would not cut out. The heli is virtually unflyable when the BEC does finally cutout. What kind of battery do you use for your RX? I wonder if anyone else is using the Phasor/Jeti combo and not using a battery for the RX?

Chachin,

You should have seen Gary Wright fly his logo20 at SEFF. That is an impressive ship. He preformed an auto at the end that was quite impressive. Wish I would have made a video of the demo.

I WISH I COULD SEE SUCH A THING!! So far the only e-helis I've seen flying (in person) are my own . I've seen gas helis flying before, but I was more into airplanes back then.. and they were gas.

I was planning on putting a Hacker B50-18S on my Eco 8, but they're too expensive. Instead, I'm going to invest the money on a B50-13L for my Logo 10 and shift over the FUN600-15 (from my Logo) into my Eco 8.

I'm hoping that my FUN600-15 motor will be able to turn my Eco 8 into a 3-D flyer on 10-cells.

Hey Carlo, where did you order your B50-11L from, Icare?? How long does it take to ship??

Chachin..

Hello

I got the B50-11L on the Ezone. All I know is I'll have a little monster; hopefully it is not to much for me to handle.

Carlos, I think the Fun will be a very nice motor in your Eco 8 with a 21 tooth pinion and 10 cells

Oh, I found that the pitch control links bind(flybar tilt is very limited) badly on the flybar bearing barrel(on metal head) at the extremes and also bind at about 8 degrees when the flybar is tilted. The flybar just doesnt get the same travel as it did with the mixing arms, on the grips, in its normal orientation. I switched back to the normal setup, but I definitally notice the loss in pitch range so my range, but my heli is still very powerful.

Carlo

O.K.

After my three consecutive flights yesterday, I think I fried my ESC. I will probably get it fixed, but am now planning on buying another ESC less the BEC. Carlo/Chachin what ESC do you guys reccomend. I might be looking for a new motor too. I'll probably stick my Jeti/Phasor in one of my planes.

Thanks,

Eric

Hello Eric

If you never want to have to buy another motor and controller again get the B50-14L(good all around motor--please read the comments about it in this link http://www.dokidoki.ne.jp/home2/tohrus/motorindexE.html
) and a Kontronik Beat 55-6-18 or a Schulze 45Ho from
http://www.icare-rc.com/

Note the Kontronik and the Schulze are both about the same price and dont have BEC's.

Personally I prefer the Kontroniks because of the ease in programmming which is program it once and you are in that mode until you change it, but the Schulze are still easy to use. I do like the heat sink on the Schulze controllers.

Carlo

Two more questions for you guys,

What kind of connectors are you using between the ESC and battery. Also, what charger are you using?

Thanks,

Eric

Hello

I use Sermo connectors, but I think I like deans connectors better because they are easier to install and are smaller.

I have a Schulze isl 330d charger. This is an awsome charger and it can charge your heli pack and your Rx pack at the same time. It is one of the best chargers out and I highly recommend it.

You can find these chargers at Icare and at www.eflightpacks.com
You can also find the deans and sermo connectors at eflight packs.

Carlo

Hello Eric,

I love the Kontronik Beat ESC's! I'd go with either a Beat 40-6-18 or a Beat 55-6-18 for the Eco 8. The latter one being the better choice since it can withstand higher currents. I've also heard good things about the 45Ho.. I'm just not familiar with it.

I'm also planning on putting my Jeti/Phasor combo back into one of my e-planes where it works best, not that it's bad for the Eco but I want more. As far as motor is concerned, I'd definitely go with a HACKER. Snoop around Tohru's website and choose the one that suits your needs.

What kind of connectors are you using between the ESC and battery. Also, what charger are you using?

I'm using Sermos connectors. They work great!! All you need is minimal soldering experience to install them. I haven't tried any other brand of connectors since I'd have to switch ALL my R/C stuff (cars, planes, helis, chargers.. etc). The sermos are good enough.

As far as the charger, I'm using an AstroFlight 112D to charger my stuff. It's a really good charger, but I'm sure that there are better ones out there. It can charge from 2 to 40 cells which is great. But it doesn't discharge.. . It's also DC/DC so I had to purchase a 12V converter (is that the name?) to be able to charge from a regular house outlet.

Let us know which motor you are looking at.

Chachin..