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Old Mar 17, 2006, 09:58 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
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Not so much a 'tool', but an accidental discovery; if you're printing out your own enlargements of plans and you only have one wing half, print it on really thin, cheap paper - this will let the plan show through easily on the other side for you to build the second wing. (I tend not to trust plans which show both panels anyway!)

Steve
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 11:28 AM
Formerly of mcba fame
Matthew Allen's Avatar
Luxembourg
Joined Apr 2001
3,007 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbaron25
Not so much a 'tool', but an accidental discovery; if you're printing out your own enlargements of plans and you only have one wing half, print it on really thin, cheap paper - this will let the plan show through easily on the other side for you to build the second wing. (I tend not to trust plans which show both panels anyway!)

Steve
...And if it still doesn't show through, rub the paper with something greasy/buttery or accidentally spill oil all over it. Suddenly you have translucent paper.

You guys should submit some of these ideas to those 'Hints and Tips' pages in the magazines. Some (like RCME) give really good prizes for the best ones.

Thanks for the great thread, and yes, it should be stickied.

Matthew
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 11:31 AM
Sam Talley
Ranger13's Avatar
Nashville, TN
Joined May 2003
299 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbaron25
Not so much a 'tool', but an accidental discovery; if you're printing out your own enlargements of plans and you only have one wing half, print it on really thin, cheap paper - this will let the plan show through easily on the other side for you to build the second wing. (I tend not to trust plans which show both panels anyway!)

Steve
A trick I learned from RCM is to rub cooking oil (EVOO not required) on the plans on the side without the printing. This makes the paper translucent and allows the lines to show through the paper. Go easy on the oil, not much is needed.
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 01:12 PM
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Farnborough, Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2005
171 Posts
Cyno tips.

Although not long in the modelling game (3yrs) I seem to use more and more cyano in builds. Getting it in the right place when access is tricky and applying small amounts especially the thin stuff is not easy. There are thin tubes available to buy, but these seem expensive, so here's an idea which is as 'cheal as chips'
Buy a box of PLASTIC shafted cotton buds (those things you use for cleaning out ears!) 300 over here cost under a 1. Light up a gas burner, one used for plumbing - a wide flame turned down real low. Grab a cotton bud holding it with hands at both cotton ends, dunk into flame for a second or so, spinning it in you fingers, remove from flame and pull, the bud if heated right will stretch apart giving a thin tube, hold for a few seconds to cool. Cut off both cotton ends, cut thinned part in the middle and you have two very fine cyano applicators. Connect to top of Zap or similar with a small piece of fuel tubing. With practice you can achieve incredibly thin applicators, and by varying the length of the fuel tube you can reach almost anywhere.
Pics below of finished items.
Marc.
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 03:33 PM
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Gordon's Avatar
Joined Aug 2000
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OK

You do have to buy this tool

Bob Partington came up with this great idea for feeding cables through difficult paths. Use a length of beaded bathtub chain. It flops down the most tortuous paths in wings and fuselages. Tape the cable to the end, and pull it through.

Gordon
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 04:27 PM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
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You don't have to buy that chain. Just make sure that next time you're invited to a party at someone's house, you're carrying a small pair of wire cutters...

Steve
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 04:32 PM
a.k.a Maltone
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Australia, NSW, Goulburn
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Ah Steve - youve got class mate
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 06:01 PM
Just Keeping UP
United States, ID, Moyie Springs
Joined May 2004
1,773 Posts
Another CA Tip

Credit this to Demon-Leather (Bob): one can use Hypodermic needles as fine tips for CA. I got mine at my pharmacy for free. The tips screw off the syringe and on to the CA bottle. When it clogs, just burn it out with a small flame. I think Bob recommends 20 ga for thin CA. Let the needle cool before putting CA through it.

DO REMEMBER, however, that CA is very flamable!

Nick
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 11:12 PM
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Albuquerque NM
Joined Oct 2003
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Here's a Couple More

For starters, I'd like to thank all who responded for some great ideas -- it's what makes this forum so terrific.

First is a simple angle finder. It doesn't tell you what the angle is, but allows an angle to be transfered to another surface easily and accurately.

Next is an angle gauge for setting root rib angles where dihedral is involved. I have several in different angles made up for different angular applications.

And finally, you just can't have too many clamps! These are made up from arrowfhaft pushrod scrap and 1/4 ply. Drill the holes at an angle about 5 degrees of center, and about .015" oversize, and when the preasure is applied they'll bind up and hold things nice and tight.

PAT
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Old Mar 18, 2006, 01:59 AM
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USA, CA, Selma
Joined Sep 2004
394 Posts
Another way to cut notches, this one doesn't require gluing the sandpaper to a piece of wood, and they last a lot longer:

Use layers of hack saw blade. Two layers is about 1/16", Pick the correct # of layers for the thickness you need.

CA a short length of balsa or spruce stick parallel to the cutting edge as a depth gauge.
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Old Mar 18, 2006, 02:21 AM
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In my Blu heaven! near Lincoln NE
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First off, Let's sticky this thread!

Second, I'll need another tool box for all my new tools I will be making!

Some of these I already have or knew about but others I surely wish I had known about before now. I could have been making my own CA applicators long ago!
Pat that angle finder I could have used, on many occasions when scaling up plans I found here or there. An angle is the same no matter what scale you happen to be working with. I don't want to tell you how many ways I have tried to duplicate an angle only to have it come out wrong once in place...Never again!

Robert
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Old Mar 18, 2006, 04:44 AM
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New Zealand, Otago, Harwood
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Another use for hacksaw blades is as straight edges for cutting balsa, use the back of the blade and the teeth grip the balsa just enough to stop it slipping and giving you a cut where you didn't want it..
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Old Mar 18, 2006, 08:02 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
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As Kiwi has mentioned straight edges, I use a length of aluminium carpet-retaining strip (the sort that you nail down in the doorway to stop the carpet edge catching) as a cutting tool for stripping balsa. I have a few of these in various lengths and they're dead straight. A bit of double-sided tape on the back will stop it slipping on the balsa sheet while you're cutting.

Also very useful for using as a guide when pinning down wings spars, to ensure they're straight.

Add it to your 'party souvenirs' list, along with the bath chain...might need a diversion though...

Steve
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Old Mar 18, 2006, 08:02 AM
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Rio Rancho NM
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For taper reamers old fishing rods can be had at yardsales cheaply. Cut into sections. Cut a strip of sandpaper and spiral up the sections.

Also you don't need sandpaper for that or notch cutters. Loose grit is available. Simply attach via epoxy. Lasts longer than sandpaper.

Cheap like me? Use a whetstone and a little oil to freshen your Xacto/Excel/scalpel blades periodically before they are obviously dull & ready to replace.
scrubs
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Old Mar 18, 2006, 08:47 AM
All under control, Grommit!
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United Kingdom, Aberdeen
Joined Sep 2000
12,646 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oian
Another way to cut notches, this one doesn't require gluing the sandpaper to a piece of wood, and they last a lot longer:

Use layers of hack saw blade. Two layers is about 1/16", Pick the correct # of layers for the thickness you need.

CA a short length of balsa or spruce stick parallel to the cutting edge as a depth gauge.
Yep, that works really well as a makeshift spar slotter tool. If you use the two ends of a broken hacksaw blade you can even put a small bolt through the two fixing holes to hold the segments together.

Here's my boy using such a tool to slot the spars on his model.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=24
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