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Old May 10, 2011, 11:45 AM
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glewis's Avatar
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Jul 2002
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Tshirt cloth clamp

Heres a method I use to pre form fuselage sheeting panels.

Wet the wood on the outside to start the bend.
Line the sheet piece up on the fuselage frame and bind it in place with strips of Tshirt material.
The Tshirt cloth is just elastic enough to put tension on the sheet holding it tight to the frame without bowing it between the formers.

Let the wood dry and you have a nice preformed skin.

Glenn
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Old May 10, 2011, 11:12 PM
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Joined Mar 2011
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Thanks Glen,,,I have a 4"x36"x1/32" peice of balsa that now has 18" P-51 fuse written on it hehehe.
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Old May 11, 2011, 07:07 AM
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bmutlugil's Avatar
Turkey
Joined May 2002
2,171 Posts
A bit late, but I guess the good looking biplane wing alignment jig may be even more useful and versatile by using spacer tubes to define the distance between the wings, instead of nuts and washers. Making the spacers equal in length would give perfect alignment, assuming the wood strips are straight and uniform in width. By adding a few washers, even washout could be given. Removal will be easier, as well.

The spacers can be reused, by adding shortler lengths, for larger models.

I will definitely try one for my Sperry, I like it..

Bulent
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Old May 11, 2011, 11:09 AM
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Well,,, Mine worked great for building the "N" spar but failed me on the alignment. I had to remove 2 sections of covering to sand down a filler block that I somehow missed. When I replaced the covering, I put a twist in the wing... Also, the Washout I put into the top wing wasn't there after I thought I was finished setting everything. I recommend building one the same way but with 4 points of contact on eack wing. They should be as close to the spar sockets as possible. I used "all-thread" so the adjusting is easy as built. The nuts allow for adjustments for the "crush" of the wood after they are tightened. I used the "Robart" incidence meters to set everything up. Also, put some sand in a baggie, put that in a sock and use it to hold the wings down at each support. Take your time, I think I may have been pushing myself a bit too fast when I set my spars in. I overlooked things that I shouldn't have... They sure didn't come out like I wanted them too and I spent a lot of time digging them out of the sockets and re-setting everything. James

If I were building in a proper shop, I think I would build one onto a bench useing the cantalever principal so I could move the model in and out of the jig to inspect things as I go.
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Old May 11, 2011, 08:37 PM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
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beautiful looking model Skeletor, the CG looks bang on to me!

good luck with the maiden bud
Craig
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Old May 12, 2011, 08:44 AM
Bush Pilots Bounce Higher
Spidious's Avatar
USA, IL, Champaign
Joined Dec 2006
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Yeah nice.. But wouldn't it be hard to fly with those needle nose pliers on it ?
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Old May 12, 2011, 10:05 AM
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Thats my new "prop nut, tool keeper", (patent pending) I think if I put a bearing on the shaft to attach the pliers to, it would allow the prop to spin without spinning the pliers, right now, it shakes really bad, hehehe...

I ended up putting 1.3 oz. of lead in the jugs to get the cg 1" farther forward. I think I may be nose heavy but thats way better than tail heavy. The nn pliers were just a temp. source of weight.
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Old May 12, 2011, 11:05 AM
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glewis's Avatar
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Jul 2002
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Is that where the control line cg is located on the plan?
Looks a bit nose heavy to me. I would think the cg would be closer to the lower wing leading edge by about 1/2"?
Glenn
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Old May 12, 2011, 04:50 PM
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Glenn, I'm kinda thinking it is too. There are 2 balance points shown. This is the forward one. I put lead in each jug, about 1.3oz total. I CAed them in but I think I will be able to take some out if needed. She has got plenty of power with the C20 on 2s and a 7x4E prop. It would pull up before I put the lead in so I know I have at least 11oz. of thrust. Lots of travel on the control surfaces. I already know the rudder needs less travel and I will adjust the elevator and ailerons as needed. I,ve been flying the sim to get my thumbs re-educated and my muscle memory back. It finially blew up a storm here. We were needing the rain. Maybe in a few weeks I will feel confident enough to maiden her at the same time the weather permits. Thanks for checking in, James.
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Old May 12, 2011, 06:29 PM
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glewis's Avatar
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Joined Jul 2002
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I would leave the cg there then. You can move the cg back as flight trials progress.

P.S.
It might be best to continue this discussion in your Stearman thread and let this one get back on topic.
Glenn
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Old Jun 14, 2011, 08:54 PM
Playing with AutoCAD!
PiperCub49's Avatar
United States, ME
Joined Oct 2008
2,651 Posts
Another glue applicator

(Not my video)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qigwT05acSI
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 07:07 PM
The Low-wing Super Cub
grubbyjeans's Avatar
Houston, TX
Joined Sep 2007
595 Posts
Window install

Here is a neat tip I ran across on another forum. He used painters tape to make a handle to pull the window into place.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 06:15 AM
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sussex uk
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does any one still make there own sanding sealer by adding talc to clear dope ?
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Old Jun 21, 2011, 10:29 AM
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Salisbury N.C.
Joined Apr 2008
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Just ran across this thread.... Good stuff here!
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 07:48 AM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteisme View Post
does any one still make there own sanding sealer by adding talc to clear dope ?
Yup, still do from time to time, great for when you have to film cover sheeted balsa.

Craig
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