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Old Jul 08, 2010, 06:32 AM
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Well I found one photo and that should be enough.

The non-slip screwdriver (boltdriver) needs a metal tube to fit the outside of the wing bolt, a short piece of steel wire that fits in the bolt's slot, and a short piece of silicon tubing or similar as a hand grip. The metal tube is drilled for the steel wire at the correct location, which is glued or soldered. That is all, except for slipping on a silicon tube or similar as a hand grip.

The one I built for my Stinson has a tight fit, so it holds the bolt in it when I screw it in place or remove it. The bolt is not on the outside surface, so that works well for insertion/removal..

Bulent
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 06:43 AM
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Final idea.

I modified a Dremel tool to slice sections off a wide lamination of purfling for the C bout of the fiddle. This is (for me at least) the most difficult part of the purfling job and I wanted to see if I could simplify it.

The limitation of the balsa stripper is that stuff like bass wood is beyond its capability no matter how hard you try. I plan to use my Dremel tool holder (which was originally made for another fiddle job which has no obvious model use) to strip bass wood and thin ply.

I haven't actually done this yet but as soon as I find all the parts I will make a shelf to guide the wood into the saw, then use it exactly like a normal balsa stripper, except that I will be able to strip much harder woods.

Width is controlled by how deep you set the saw blade into the Dremel chuck. I hope the pictures tell the whole story.

I have other pictures showing the parts of the basic holder if anyone is curious.

Sorry about the lack of clutter in these pictures. I was just getting started and the clutter didn't have time to accumulate.

Pete
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 07:52 AM
Two left thumbs
Muncie, IN
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No need to build a jig, Sam, Dremel sells a router table that works as you describe: http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDYQ8wIwAg#
Very good application for it, though!

Geoff
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffinpdx View Post
No need to build a jig, Sam, Dremel sells a router table that works as you describe: http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDYQ8wIwAg#
Very good application for it, though!

Geoff
I'm not sure that the fence has clearance for a saw blade. Other than that it looks like a very handy thing to have.

Pete
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 05:36 PM
Two left thumbs
Muncie, IN
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The fence is removable, BUT, yours is ever so much nicer! Dremel = ARF mentality; yours = real craftsman mentality.

Bulent, I like that screwdriver! Cool!

Geoff
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 10:20 PM
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One of my favorite "tools" is Q-Tips. I go through several boxes of them in a year. They are great for cleaning up excess glues, even as mini paint brushes.

Hi Carl ! I'm flying at Arlington Eagles now. It's a much nicer/bigger field than Erma and less money,... $65/yr.

Fred
https://home.comcast.net/~guilfoyle72/

Edit,... Oh, I guess money >can< buy Q-tips sorry, good tool anyway.
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 11:57 AM
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First off, here's a picture I took of a sheet of heat bent balsa and some sliced ribs. I posted this on the Dynamics Unlimited site years ago.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffinpdx View Post
Stradivari might have used something like a one-piece clothes peg - which you can still buy. No springs, just a forked stick. They're also handy for holding trailing edge sheets together, since you can vary the tension by simply pushing them on more or less.

Now, where does the motor go on that fiddle?

Geoff
Second, here's my version of the no spring clamps that I used to glue in the bass bar. I don't know if this has any model function, but it does complete the story. Note the little wedges along side. The vee notched clamps are felt lined. Soft leather would have been better, but the felt was handy. You place the clamp and then refine its clamping pressure with the wedges. What I do is place a couple of clamps, clean the glue. (Hide glue cleans up with water) Place a couple more clamps, remove the old ones and clean again. Repeat until no glue is visible.

Sorry, this really is off topic, but I though Geoff might like to see how it was done before supermarket clothes pins.

Pete
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 11:57 AM
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Fascinating thread!
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 12:58 PM
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Interesting tools, Pete, thanks - and to others too, who contribute..

I like the small planers shown. I have a friend in Istanbul who also built a violin and plays it occasionally.

Is hide glue the old type glue that was activated by boiling in water? We called that bone glue - I wonder if it is still available, probably it would be difficult to find..

I had built a model canoe utilising bone glue for lamination, using bass strips. That was decades ago, before the invention - or availability here - of white glue. I had to boil glue for every strip and wait for it to cool and dry completely - like a strip or two a day I still have that canoo, and I like it very much. The plan for the full scale canoe was published in Popular Mechanics.

Bulent
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmutlugil View Post
Interesting tools, Pete, thanks - and to others too, who contribute..

I like the small planers shown. I have a friend in Istanbul who also built a violin and plays it occasionally.

Is hide glue the old type glue that was activated by boiling in water? We called that bone glue - I wonder if it is still available, probably it would be difficult to find..

I had built a model canoe utilising bone glue for lamination, using bass strips. That was decades ago, before the invention - or availability here - of white glue. I had to boil glue for every strip and wait for it to cool and dry completely - like a strip or two a day I still have that canoo, and I like it very much. The plan for the full scale canoe was published in Popular Mechanics.

Bulent
Hide glue is probably like bone glue, but is made from the skin and maybe the hoofs of animals. Supposedly the finest hide glue is rabbit hide glue which is colorless and used by artists for certain things.

Hide glue should not be heated above 150 f. since overheating weakens it. I have a special thermostatically controlled pot that I use for hide glue.

Hide glue is fairly easy to find. It is also considered one of the strongest glues in the world. One of the things that it is used for is frosting glass. The glue is poured on glass, it dries and adheres to the glass, but it also shrinks and peels away a layer of glass, leaving an intricately patterned frosted surface. The glue is then reheated, the tiny glass fragments settle to the bottom and the glue is re-used.

If this isn't off topic I don't know what is!

Pete
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 07:34 PM
Two left thumbs
Muncie, IN
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Well, one never knows when we might want frosted glass side windows on a model airliner. You can still buy animal-derived glues in powdered form at most woodworker's stores.

Good stuff, Pete!

Geoff
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 07:52 PM
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Gee, I wonder if thinned hide glue applied over solarfilm and then pulled off would be sufficient to dull the shine to scale like sheen?
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteSchug View Post
Hide glue .. If this isn't off topic I don't know what is!
Pete
Don't know about that but it *is* fascinating. Now to find a rabbit....
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 08:52 PM
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Gee, I wonder if thinned hide glue applied over solarfilm and then pulled off would be sufficient to dull the shine to scale like sheen?
If you don't mind intricate frosted patterns in your dulled, scale like solarfilm.

If you try it, let us know how it worked and if you ever got the glue off the plane.

Pete
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Daily View Post
Gee, I wonder if thinned hide glue applied over solarfilm and then pulled off would be sufficient to dull the shine to scale like sheen?
I bet not. But, it would mean you could get all those pesky wrinkles out!

charlie
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