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Old Jun 25, 2002, 08:46 PM
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Mike Hall's Avatar
Albany, GA
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My next project

I thought a 36" wingspan King air 200 would be cool so its going to be my next project. I plan to use two DX-A's I already have. What do you guys think this will be a good model to build scale? the wing area is a little small but I really want to keep this one scale. I plan to carve this one out of 2" blue foam and use sturdyboard for the wings. Any thoughts on this project will be nice.

Thanks
Mike
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Old Jun 25, 2002, 08:47 PM
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 01:20 AM
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Here is a pic of the fuselage beside my Me109 fuselage.

Mike
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 08:38 PM
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Here are a few more pics of the progress.

Mike
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 08:38 PM
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 08:39 PM
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 08:41 PM
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would there be any problem with putting a sqare spar under the wing? Im talking about maybe a 1/8" spruce spar.

Mike
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 09:59 PM
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Here are some pics of the roughed in nacelles. Its starting to look like a King air now.

Mike
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 09:59 PM
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 10:05 PM
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Holy crap on a stick! You build like lightning! That looks great!
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 11:00 PM
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Cape Coral, FL
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Very nice

Mike,

I'm very interested in your building technique. It looks like you put the basic plane together in about 3 days (based on dates of posts). I'm building a scratch foamie, but the process has been much more time consuming than I want. I hotwire cut the wing, so there's one big time consumer.

How did you go about shaping the fuselage accurately? Did you just sand away and use TLAR (That Looks About Right), or do you make templates to check the profile? Can you describe your process from plans to plane?

Here's a photo of my B-25 foamie, 46.5" wingspan. I originally intended to make something for twin DX-A's, but it got bigger

I have 3 threads describing my construction process - I'm learning and got / needed lots of feedback. In case your interested, they are:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&threadid=27799

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...58&pagenumber=1

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...01&pagenumber=1

The finished weight will be 17 oz, less motor and battery, so all up should be no more than 34 oz.

Derek
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 11:45 PM
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well I built what you see in about 3 to 4 hours. I rough cut with a band saw then use a sharp knive to rough it in more then I work it with sand paper. I guess I just see i my mind what I want it to look like and somehow it comes out like I want it. By the way I have been following your progress and I have to say it sure looks good. I might have to come down the Jacksonville and check it out. Im only 2.5 hours away.

Mike
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Old Jun 28, 2002, 11:49 PM
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Sorry I forgot. I do use the top and side profile as templates. I might end up trying to hot wire some wing cores but I have not had good luck with hot wiring foam so far. If you could send me info on your hot wire setup I might be able to do it. I built a thermal generator and bow but I have a hard time with the wire stretching too much. Give me some hints because you sure know how to do it.

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Mike
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Old Jun 29, 2002, 11:41 AM
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Hot wire cutting

Mike,

Learning to cut the wing was a challenge. But now I could make another in about 2 or 3 hours. My wire stretches some too, but I only turn up the heat just enough to start cutting. The wire moves through maybe 1" in 15 or 20 seconds - not very fast. With the wire moving so slow, there's not much pressure on it and thus, not much bow. The wing cut is started at the leading edge, when the wire is least bowed, and finished out the trailing edge, which is flattest and least susceptible to a bowed wire.

I did not have a steady enough hand to hand-cut the wing so I made a crude mechanical setup. It's a gravity setup that pulls the wire through the wing. Faster at the wider wing root and slower at the narrow wingtip. If you seriously want to try it, I'll post a sketch of the setup and describe it in detail. Let me know.

continued...

Derek
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Old Jun 29, 2002, 11:42 AM
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Part 2

The rib templates that are used to guide the hotwire must be extremely smooth. That is, the edge that the wire rides against must be very very smooth. Otherwise, the wire will chatter along and make ridges in the wing surface, or just hangup altogether. The wire must flow through the wing in the smoothest way possible. This is why guys use formica to make the rib templates. The formica is hard to cut, but will sand very smooth. Since you have a bandsaw (I don't), cutting the formica should be easy.

Some guys on ezone showed me where to get a free program to draw any wing rib template you want (thousands, literally). It's called 'PROFILI'

If you have a helper with a steady hand, you can make a pretty good wing without a mechanical setup. Just make an OUTSIDE rib template (ie, cut away the inner part) for the root and tip out of formica, sand the inside edge perfectly smooth with 600. Cut a 2" thick piece of white foam blank a little oversize, but make the tip and root cutoffs exactly. Pin the formica templates to the ends. You can 'rotate' the rib template a little to get washout at the wingtips - works GREAT. Also, locate the wingtip relative to the root to create tapered leading edge. (I guess you need to cut an entry/exit slit in the formica templates to let the wire in - maybe right at the leading edge?). Pin the blank to your workbench and put some weights on it - I used thick books.

Now, have one person hold each end of the bow. Turn on the power and start the wire into the entry slit - remember, just enough power to start cutting the foam. Hold gentle upward pressure so when the wire just gets inside the template it starts riding up the leading edge of the wing and over the top surface of the wing (you don't want the wire to 'wander' away from the template and into the core of the wing - if you do, don't panic - just back out the way you came in, and patch the cut later). Whoever holds the wire at the root of the wing, must move it faster. Mark 8 or 9 stations along the ribs and call out the numbers as you move along. ie, a 9" rib will have 9 marks 1" apart and a 4.5" rib will have 9 marks 1/2" apart. Coordinate the movement of the wire so you pass the same station mark at the same time. When you get to the trailing edge, wait there to let the bow in the wire catch up then, start to apply gentle down pressure, and move the wire toward the leading edge. At the leading edge allow the wire to move out the 'exit' slit.

continued...
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Last edited by DerekB; Jun 29, 2002 at 11:44 AM.
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