Careful! Fuses saved my rx today

[neilswolf]

Whelp, the fuses I installed last week sure paid off today! caught a bit of wind today that pushed the heli up into my roof eves and down she went.
Damage done: 1 fuse!
Soldered in a new one and back up she went!
I wish I could remember who's post I got this idea from - I want to say SSG Scott but I'm not sure.
Whoever it was - THANK YOU!

[blade strike]

Originally Posted by neilswolf

Whelp, the fuses I installed last week sure paid off today! caught a bit of wind today that pushed the heli up into my roof eves and down she went.
Damage done: 1 fuse!
Soldered in a new one and back up she went!
I wish I could remember who's post I got this idea from - I want to say SSG Scott but I'm not sure.
Whoever it was - THANK YOU!

I do think it was SSG Scott..

[Minimole]

Sorry, care to elaborate on the fuse?
Do you put it between the main motor and ESC, so if the blades are stopped suddenly but the motor is still (trying to) turn, the fuse pops instead of the ESC?

Cheers, Duane.

[Mike abcd]

Look here for the directions with pics thanks to Scott.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472793

Mike

[stockcp2]

Is it worth trying to use something like this?
http://www.radioshack.com/sm-30-amp-...i-2102783.html

I like these ideas and I thought perhaps it could get tiresome using a solder iron to replace the fuses each time. I know weight is a factor and 12AWG wire may be an issue. I am curious what you guys think.

[Roto Rob]

Have blown the fuse on my Kyosho m-24 only once. But glad the factory put it in there. Can use the Female connectors like this to save some weight or soldering.

[scratchee]

Stock...that's exactly what I've been thinking about, but haven't spent much time looking. Thanks for the link! I have the fuses, but would really rather have a holder like this.

[rocknbil]

I have been through 3 main motor fuses and 4 tail motor fuses, this is one of the great ideas that works really well.

[scratchee]

StockCP2...

Well, I stopped by Radio Shack to check out those fuse holders, and they were way too bulky for my tastes. I'm not very picky about weight, but these were bigger than they looked in the picture, and they just looked like they would take up a bunch of space. So I'll just hard-wire my fuses, I suppose. But thanks for the idea!

[stockcp2]

I wouldn't give up that easily =P. Get some heat shrink tubing and 22-18 gauge (small) female disconnects. You have to open up one of the folds a bit on the disconnect so the fuse post will slide in easier and then squash the other one a little bit to get it out of the way. You can even bend that towards the other fold to make things smaller. Use the heat shrink tubing to cover the metal body of the disconnects. I do it while the fuse is connected so the tubing wont wrap all the way around the end of the disconnect. It works good, keeps things covered and doesn't require permanently soldering the fuse. I did add solder at connection of the wire and disconnect to further secure that connection. Ill post a pic later (if I can), its nearly 1am right now.

[CP2Hopper]

For this useful mod much smaller fuses are available that do not need you to drag out the soldering iron when it comes time to change them (often in my case....). Manufactured by LittleFuse, available through Farnell (www.farnell.com) and many others. Fuse holder is 9.9mmx5mmx3.7mm and weighs 0.3g with the fuse fitted. Many options for mounting, either soldered direct to motor terminals or glued somewhere with flying leads works equally well. Farnell part numbers:

Holder with 3A fuse fitted - 994-3650 (£1.13ea)
3A quick blow fuse - 416-1592 (£0.29ea)
7A quick blow fuse - 416-1622 (£0.29ea)

Very fast acting fuses are also available but not in the 7A rating. Haven't tried it but suspect a 10A very fast (992-2202) and a 3A very fast (992-2180) will do just as well. (Strictly the 10A fuse is beyond the fuse holder rating but unlikely to cause a problem).

If you don't want the no-solder swap capability MUCH smaller fuses are also available in the tail motor rating but frankly I wouldn't bother. Being able to change them quickly is well worth the 0.3g!

Farnell accept credit card orders but there is a 10-off minimum order quantity and postage charge. In the scale of things insignificant but if you really can't bring yourself to spend the few pounds if enough people contact me I will buy and supply avoiding you the MOQ.

[Ken448]

Those in the states, RadioShack sells this mini-Blade fuse holder
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

[Eric_N57105]

Originally Posted by stockcp2

I wouldn't give up that easily =P. Get some heat shrink tubing and 22-18 gauge (small) female disconnects. You have to open up one of the folds a bit on the disconnect so the fuse post will slide in easier and then squash the other one a little bit to get it out of the way. You can even bend that towards the other fold to make things smaller. Use the heat shrink tubing to cover the metal body of the disconnects. I do it while the fuse is connected so the tubing wont wrap all the way around the end of the disconnect. It works good, keeps things covered and doesn't require permanently soldering the fuse. I did add solder at connection of the wire and disconnect to further secure that connection. Ill post a pic later (if I can), its nearly 1am right now.

That's what I use. They are female 0.110" spade connectors. I think you are using the wider ones. The 0.110" slide right on...a little tight, but both folds engage the fuse the way they should. No bending required.

Eric
www.ke6us.com

[stockcp2]

Originally Posted by Eric_N57105

That's what I use. They are female 0.110" spade connectors. I think you are using the wider ones. The 0.110" slide right on...a little tight, but both folds engage the fuse the way they should. No bending required.

Eric
www.ke6us.com

Do you remember where you got them at? I was at NAPA and grab the smallest of connectors I could find and made them work. Seems to be ok for now until I run out of them.

[Eric_N57105]

Originally Posted by stockcp2

Do you remember where you got them at? I was at NAPA and grab the smallest of connectors I could find and made them work. Seems to be ok for now until I run out of them.

I got a big bag of them from the local surplus electronics store, but I've seen them branded by Philmore/Datak. I checked their website, but they don't show them.

Action Electronics is selling a 50-pack for $8, P/N NB-50LH

http://www.action-electronics.com/terminal.htm

I bet a search would bring up many more sources.

Eric
www.ke6us.com