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Old Feb 21, 2006, 11:19 AM
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Aaaala Baaama
Joined Sep 2004
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Build Log
RiteWing 50" TL Build

Well, OK, it'll be pretty hard to call this a "Build Log," but I am going to chronicle the "major milestones" as I build/fly/modify my Ritewing 50" TL.

Thought I'd tell a little about myself during the first installment so the audience might have some basis for comparison to their own experience/skill level, if you're considering building one... but are a little concerned about taking the plunge.

History: I'm a 38 YOM. I flew Cox "control line" planes as a kid and have always enjoyed anything that flies. My first wholly successful planes were built over the last couple years; Liftworx Seeker, Montain Models DL50, 48" Unicorn wing (I fly this one all the time!), and Ultrafly PC-9. The DL50 and Unicorn were the 2 greatest contributors to my building and flying skills; I built the Unicorn last Fall and have flown it a time or two a week since. After adding a brushless motor/lipos, I realized the Unicorn isn't quite as friendly at higher speeds, hence the introduction to Ritewing kits.

I bought my 50" TL and all the goodies, lock stock and barrell, from Randy at dynamoelectrics.com. Randy was very helpful selecting components and his guidance has added value to this experience! Two thumbs us to Dynamo!

Initial setup will be:
HET 4 wind
CC 60
Medusa BEC (with/without external 2S LIPO power)
4S 3700's (Hyperion)
HS225MG's
Hitec Electron 6

Next post will cover construction completed last weekend and where I am going next.... I hope you will follow along, ask questions of any kind, and keep me moving forward!

Chuck (in Aaaala Baaama)
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 11:58 AM
Git-R-Done
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Rich Hill, Missouri_USA
Joined Aug 2004
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What type of material is the 50" TL??
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 12:14 PM
BlueGrass Rules
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United States, IL, Dahlgren
Joined Nov 2003
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EPP foam
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 12:27 PM
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Aaaala Baaama
Joined Sep 2004
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RiteWing 50" TL Build, continued....

As I mentioned above, I do not assume everyone wants minute detail regarding the build, but I did want to let you know what I've accomplished, what I used to accomplish it, and my general impression of progress/words of wisdom.... Please ask for more specific details, if you've got a topic in mind you can't let go of....

Lets see.... I'll just make a laundry list of major accomplishments and elaborate on each a little....

1. Cut spar slots: With wings cores separate, I marked/cut spar slots using Chris' recommended practice. Made two short practice cuts on scrap EPP, marked my cores, set up a straight edge and went to town. Piece O' cake, except the iron I was using was 30W, and the garage was about 40F.... so I had to cut a little then back off... let the tip reheat, then plow through some more. Looked like a pro the first time!

2. Bedded the forward spars in the wings with Pro-Bond: Again, garage was cold to the BONE, so it was taking forever for the Pro-Bond to kick. Took 'em inside and within minites, I had lots of foamy goodless latching onto the spars. FYI, Pro-Bond kicks very slowly.... in 40F temperatures... even with water mixed in. Duh....

3. Joined wing halves: Stuffed the aft spar holes with Pro-Bond (refer to number 2 above for Pro-Bong/cold commentary...), installed spar, and 3M90'd the core roots. 3M90 doesn't tack up in 40F temperatures either (Duh?). There will certainly be a point in time I can use this to my advantage, but joining wing halves is not it. Took 'em inside and everything tacked up and stayed put.

4. Layed out the battery bay, electronics bay, and servo wells. No big deal. I used the aft spar location to locate the motor mount (aft of spar) and electronics bay (fwd of spar), then went to the front of the wing to locate battery bay. I found the thinnest part of the wing (forward) that would still accommodate my battery and made a bay a little wider than and 2X longer than I thought I would need (maybe I can put another 2S pack in there someday... next to the 4S already planned.... Mu HA HA Haaaaaa!). The space between the battery and electronics bay is left alone for wing stiffness/structure, ala CK's instructions...

I outlined the Battery/Electronics bays with a 1/4" border for a "lid recess," though so much is probably overkill. 1/8" seemed like not much room for error, so I went with the thick ledges the first time... YMMV.

Servos? Same number. As far forward as servo thickness will allow, and as far outboard as is necessary to provide for connection to the elevons.

Most important things I learned about layout... Forward spar placement and battery bay layout should be mapped out at the same time. Looks like it is best if the spars meet somewhere under the battery bay. Likewise for servos. For both these items, most of the foam is cut away. The spars make a nice "depth guide" to keep you from going too far with the foam-slicing gadged when you are clearing space for components and provide strength where lots of foam is removed.

5. Installed motor mount: I thought getting this "slice" straight would be difficult. Not so, compadre. First thing you gotta do is trim the wing according to your motor mount "layout" so you end up with prop clearance. No science here. Make it the shape you want. Not much way to go wrong here, but do consider where the servo/control rod will end up on the elevons before slashing. After trimming this relief, just draw a line in the center of the aft of the airfoil, slice it with a long sharp knife, and slide the mount in to test fit. Goop-o-rama. Clamp and done.

6. Cutting out bays, etc: Slash and burn using Chris' soldering iron/12-ga wire kludge. Took me about 2.5 minutes to make a cutter for my 100W iron... including a trip in the freezing-@#$ cold garage to get the tools, wire, etc. Back out to the freezing-@#$ cold garage I went... practiced cutting in the battery bay first. Lots o' meat there to hose up (remember, Chuck, first click, 140W, second click, 100W). Using a solder gun, even at 100W, the wire seemed to get too hot if it was held on for extended periods. I got in a groove of "cut" then "cool" for a few moments. Just worked for me.... I used the same kludge to relieve the ledges for the covers. Careful goes it....

Oh, and when crap hangs on the cutter... it will eventually drip. If it drips on foam, it makes a hole. Ask me how I know.... (you've been warned!)

7. Stuffed servos, buried rods, etc: I'm not sure what advice to give here. I made my servo cutouts first, then buried the control rods, and had to trim the servo cutouts a little more. I ended up with servo holes a little bigger than I would have liked. I'll probably experiment with melting control rod ditches first, then lay in the servo accordingly... and see how that works. I have a mind to use a steel control rod next time and just use a tube to protect it at the exit of the wing.... Idunno. I'll do it different one way or the other.... that's part of the beauty of this kit. MY way.... MY WAY....!

That pretty well catches you up to what I did over the weekend. All in all, I'd say I spent 2.5 hours to get me to where I am. A little more time was spent head scratching, pondering, etc, of which I will not have to do next build.

The learning curve is friendly to the first-time "Rite Way" builder. Sweating the details just isn't so important, compared to lots of other kits. The spars do not have to be "Exactly here" or the servos/linkage does not have to be "Exactly there". I enjoy that flexibility of the design and the ability to evolve my layout/build technique over time.... I just know my next one will be the BEST ONE YET :-). Kind of a challenge.... and I see myself getting sucked in quickly....

Where am I going from here? A warmer climate would be nice! OK, so it's not really EVER cold in Alabama, but until it's a bit warmer, I'll be holding off the next step, which is applying the glass matting....

Oh, and attached are a few pics of what I've done so far..... Enjoy!

Chuck (in Aaaala Baaama)
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 12:29 PM
Throw it it'll fly
Tucson.Az
Joined Apr 2004
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I have a prototype 50" slopper I have been flying it for a few weeks and it loves speed It is a different airfoil than yours but its fun I am still getting used to it hope ypu like it Chris from Right wing Rc is way cool and will help you in any way he can for any flying Slope Electric He told my he has got a wing that went 180 mph woh now that a good built wing his build tec. is awsome..

oopps its Rightwingrc sorry Chris just caught this Jason
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 05:54 PM
Mum is the word!
Joined Jun 2003
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looks great.

Hey chuck it looks great.Did the build cd give you enough to keep your brain rollin on this project?

I did try to give you guys enough info to make your own decisions and still build a sweet bird.

Like you said the basic rule is to pre layout the wing and put he gear as far foward as the thickness of the foil allows.
Chuck to let you know your demon 40 went out today.Yay!
ck
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 06:00 PM
Mum is the word!
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a few more tips

Also I will let you guys know that for joining the wing halves and glueing in the servos and lids.I use a hot glue gun to do all of these lately.
It works great for speeding up the process ,but i still reccomend probond on the spars it strenghtens the foam around the spar and adds lots of extra strength.
ck
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 08:10 PM
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Oceanside CA
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Klique the problem with hot glue is that it peels off things easily, so I would suggest scuffing up the servo cases first and would not use it at all joining the wing halves.
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 08:33 PM
Mum is the word!
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Justin It works great, ben using it for years.
If you are covering the wings with glass you have no worries.All the strength is in the build as a whole.If anyone would have had problems with srenght it would be me.
the servos are burried and encased in glass ,never have i had issues.
If it were a loopy tapie lite wing it would be all goop.
I use high temp not low temp it sticks better.
Ck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Innocent
Klique the problem with hot glue is that it peels off things easily, so I would suggest scuffing up the servo cases first and would not use it at all joining the wing halves.
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Old Feb 22, 2006, 08:26 AM
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Truth be known....

Quote:
Originally Posted by klique
Also I will let you guys know that for joining the wing halves and glueing in the servos and lids.I use a hot glue gun to do all of these lately.
It works great for speeding up the process ,but i still reccomend probond on the spars it strenghtens the foam around the spar and adds lots of extra strength.
ck
CK,

I used hot glue to join my Unicorn cores and let me tell you... that is one wing that has been abused. The hot glue joint shows no sign of failure. No prep other than just sticking them together. I'll try it with my Demon (I keep hearing that sinister laugh in my head when I say "Demon." Mu HA! HA! Haaaaaaa! There! Did you hear it? I heard it again!)

Truth be known, I resorted to Hot Glue in combination with Goop to do the things I did not want to hold... (fortunately, the Goop did not light!). Servos, I started with Goop then topped with a small squirt of hot glue to "hold" 'em down.... Hatch covers I did with Goop but tacked in the corners with thick CA/Kicker. With it being so cold in my work space, Hot Glue was limited in usefulness.... (it didn't stay hot long )

Evolve or else...

Chuck (in Aaaala Baaama)
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Old Feb 22, 2006, 08:33 AM
Mum is the word!
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Mu ha Muha ahahahhha, I do hear it.
The Demon is in transit brother.
The hot glue works great ,the trick is to get a glue gun that can deliver enough glue to stick the cores together in one shot.
Just a larger gun w more capacity.
ck
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Old Feb 22, 2006, 08:41 AM
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looks great. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by klique
Hey chuck it looks great.Did the build cd give you enough to keep your brain rollin on this project?

I did try to give you guys enough info to make your own decisions and still build a sweet bird.

Like you said the basic rule is to pre layout the wing and put he gear as far foward as the thickness of the foil allows.
Chuck to let you know your demon 40 went out today.Yay!
ck
Yeah, the DVD is a great starting place, though my wife is particularly annoyed they the whining of the wings in the flight sequences... (and by the whining of Glenn Danzig in the background, for that matter.... )

Much better to see it done by you than read it in B&W hard copy...

I'll likely have the Demon to the same stage as the 50" TL in the pics the evening I get it... only better :-). I'll start another thread when I get some pics of it. Maybe start a more thorough review... box when it is opened, parts as I am playing with them, etc. More building coverage. Idunno... Stopping to take pictures kind of breaks the rhythm.... aye?

Chuck (in Aaaala Baaama)
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 03:11 AM
Gettin' Lifted
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Hole In The Earth, CA
Joined Feb 2004
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HET 4 wind?????? HET = ??
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 04:35 AM
Git-R-Done
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Rich Hill, Missouri_USA
Joined Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernoulli~Bros
HET 4 wind?????? HET = ??
Check out this link....
http://www.modelflight.com.au/het_products.htm
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 07:14 AM
Mum is the word!
Joined Jun 2003
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Het's

Or randy at dynamoelectrics.com has them,give him a call i dont think they are on his site yet but he has them.
Ck
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