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Old Mar 31, 2006, 01:05 AM
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your landing strip looks a bit rough try this suspention looks cool as the wheel travels up and down and also less vibration on your electronics, a stretched coil from a pen spring the trick is the size of the coil you stretch . Take the stopper off of the top of the shaft dont worry your gear wont fall off the servo rod will keep the wheel frop falling off just bend the rod upp a little .
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Old Apr 30, 2006, 10:20 PM
diligentia vis celeritas
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Corona, CA
Joined Feb 2006
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what happened to the video?...i'm thinking of building an air tanker out of the quad version...servo operated bomb bay to deliver red clay colored baby powder...
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Old May 01, 2006, 12:14 AM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunracer
what happened to the video?...i'm thinking of building an air tanker out of the quad version...servo operated bomb bay to deliver red clay colored baby powder...
Sorry, never got good quality video of it. Have to bend some new nose wheel wire as the old one broke. I have several excellent flights on this bird, and I love every minute of it. If you want to see some REALLY good video, check out this video by Derick Veliz. All I can say is, I bow down to his skills.

If I ever do get some video of this (which I should) I'll be sure and post it.

About the air tanker mod, just make sure you keep weight as low as possible. That would be a cool sight though!

Pat
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Old May 01, 2006, 12:50 AM
diligentia vis celeritas
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Corona, CA
Joined Feb 2006
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thanks pat...checked out the vid...nice flying with what looks like a great performing plane...did he ever post his set up?...do you think the stock motors can carry an additional 3-4 oz?...
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Old May 01, 2006, 06:01 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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It should be able to carry the additional weight. I think I put that much on with the wing tanks, and tail wiring and harness.

Pat
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Old May 01, 2006, 06:18 PM
diligentia vis celeritas
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Corona, CA
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thanks again pat...once i get the air drop mechanism semi-figured out, i'll order the plane and start a build thread...
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Old May 01, 2006, 06:25 PM
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United States, MA, Warren
Joined May 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunracer
thanks pat...checked out the vid...nice flying with what looks like a great performing plane...did he ever post his set up?...do you think the stock motors can carry an additional 3-4 oz?...

Go for it, my c-130 set up is stock and using a 2cell 2100 TP lipo flies great!

check out my next adventure...


Derick
www.aerialview.us
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Old May 01, 2006, 07:42 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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Derick,

Please let us know when video is available!

Pat
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Old May 21, 2006, 03:20 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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Motor Upgrade

So I've decided to do an upgrade to the power system. I am removing the stock EDP-50 motors and replacing them with sp180's. In order to accomplish this, and to keep a scale appearance, I had to buy some additional equipment. Here is a list of parts I bought for this conversion:

4x E-flite sp180 brushed motors, part #EFLH1211
4x GWS Prop Adapters, part #GWSDS001
4x GWS 4025 props
GWS Direct Drive power system, part #300HC
Rubber tubing

The GWS Direct Drive power system was purchased as it came with 6 spinners that were just the right size to fit the new props (the sp300 motor and 6" props will go into the spare parts bin). The props are exactly the same as the stock props from the kit, except they are 4" vs 3". The rubber tubing I had in my stockpile of stuff, and I don't remember the inner diameter of it. But, it was perfect for this application.

The first step was to add a small length of rubber tubing to the threaded prop shaft. This is because the inner diameter of the prop hub is larger than the shaft. I cut a piece the length of the prop hub, and slid it onto the shaft.

Next, I slid the prop on and secured it with the washer and nut supplied with the prop adapter.

Then I added the spinner. The only problem here is that the spinner is designed to fit a much smaller prop shaft. I wound up cutting out most of the mounting rubber inside the spinner, leaving only enough to squeeze it onto the shaft securely. As it is now, the spinner does not snug all the way down to the prop. I may wind up taking the dremel and sawing off about a 1/4" of the shaft for a snug fit.

I have started fitting one of the motors into an outboard nacelle. Once I get one mounted properly, I will post the procedure here.

Pat
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Old May 21, 2006, 05:24 PM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crxmanpat
So I've decided to do an upgrade to the power system. I am removing the stock EDP-50 motors and replacing them with sp180's. In order to accomplish this, and to keep a scale appearance, I had to buy some additional equipment. Here is a list of parts I bought for this conversion:

4x E-flite sp180 brushed motors, part #EFLH1211
4x GWS Prop Adapters, part #GWSDS001
4x GWS 4025 props
GWS Direct Drive power system, part #300HC
Rubber tubing

The GWS Direct Drive power system was purchased as it came with 6 spinners that were just the right size to fit the new props (the sp300 motor and 6" props will go into the spare parts bin). The props are exactly the same as the stock props from the kit, except they are 4" vs 3". The rubber tubing I had in my stockpile of stuff, and I don't remember the inner diameter of it. But, it was perfect for this application.

The first step was to add a small length of rubber tubing to the threaded prop shaft. This is because the inner diameter of the prop hub is larger than the shaft. I cut a piece the length of the prop hub, and slid it onto the shaft.

Next, I slid the prop on and secured it with the washer and nut supplied with the prop adapter.

Then I added the spinner. The only problem here is that the spinner is designed to fit a much smaller prop shaft. I wound up cutting out most of the mounting rubber inside the spinner, leaving only enough to squeeze it onto the shaft securely. As it is now, the spinner does not snug all the way down to the prop. I may wind up taking the dremel and sawing off about a 1/4" of the shaft for a snug fit.

I have started fitting one of the motors into an outboard nacelle. Once I get one mounted properly, I will post the procedure here.

Pat
The 180 motor with prop and adaptor, spinner,..etc would have double the weight of the original IPS motors. In fact with two of these you would have sufficient power to fly it with the same or better performance compared to stock 4 motors already. Upgrade all 4 to this motor would certainly rock the plane already on 2 cell, use 3 cell it would be rocket. Watch out for CG change as 4 motors add significant weight compared to stock. You would also need a much bigger battery to handle the Amp draw, another hit in weight.
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Old May 21, 2006, 11:58 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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I've got most of the motor remounting done. Just need to do a little detailing and get everything patched back up. I was at 518g, 18.7oz AUW in the first configuration. I will weigh it again when completed to see where I'm at. I should come in at under 600g still.

And although I was pleased with the scale-like performance of the stock power system, I was not happy that I pretty much had to fly it at WOT the entire time. Take-off runs are a lot longer than all my other planes, and I want more umph to get it airborne. I don't plan on flying any more than 1/2 throttle with the new setup while cruising.

And this time I will make sure I have someone get good video of the remaiden. I have some of the original maiden, but it did not turn out well at all.

Pat
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Old May 22, 2006, 11:08 PM
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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I have made a little more progress. This series will show the final steps for the conversion.

First, I decided it would be easier to just de-solder the wires from the current motors, then resolder onto the new ones, instead of trying to remove the wiring itself. The first pic shows the original motor mounted to the nacelle. After removing that, and the two mounting sticks, I pressed the new motor into the styro a little to make an outline. Then, I used an xacto to cut around the outline. Next I grabbed the neddle nose pliers and just dug out the styro deep enough to accept the new motor. After test fitting to ensure the correct depth, I then soldered the wires to the new motor.

Next, I cut out new holes for the stick mounts and glued them in. The new motor has flat sides on opposite ends, and the sticks rest up against the flat sides. At first, I was just going to secure the new motors the same way as the old, by wrapping a rubber band around the motor and stick mounts. But I realized that the motors would shift inside the cowlings under sufficient thrust. Therefore, I devised a retaining system by using some left over piano wire from my Tiger Moth kit. I bent the wire into a "U" shape, with little hooks at the top of the "U". I then poked holes in the stick mounts for the wire hooks, installed the wire, and wrapped with a rubber band. This should prevent any motor movement during flight.

Finally, I installed the prop adapters, put on the cowlings, and mounted the props and spinners. I still have one side to finish, then paint the props as I had done the old ones. I'll post some final pics when completed.

Pat
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Old May 27, 2006, 01:19 AM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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Well, I got it all installed, and decided to run it around in the street for some taxi tests, and motor run up. Everything seemed fine. I ran it up and down the street a couple of times and it did not show any bad tendancies.

I was taxiing it back towards me to take it back inside, when all of a sudden it went WOT without any input from the Tx. The good news is that it was pointed right at me, and was only about 15' away when it happended, so I basically grabbed it and removed the battery. Of cousre I got the magic smoke from the ESC.

I had not yet measured amp draw, so I'm wondering if it was too much for the ESC to handle (it's rated at 15A). But I had not run it at WOT at all except for a few brief seconds, and I was only at 1/8 throttle when it took off on me. I think I will go down and get a Castle Phoenix 25 just to be on the safe side.

Fortunately, there was no damage to the bird except for a couple of chipped props. Lucky for me I have 2 replacements on hand, so all I need is the new ESC. I should be able to pick one up tomorrow.

Pat
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Old May 27, 2006, 07:41 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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Silly me, thinking I could use a Castle Phx 25, it's a brushless ESC, and I have brushed motors

So I wound up with a GWS ICS-600 E. Supposed to be good to 30A continuous, 45A burst. Got it all soldered up and put back together. Stuck the wattmeter on it, then plugged in a battery. Things went crazy so I immediately unplugged the battery. Turns out I had soldered up the battery connection on the ESC backwards. Fortunately, it did not do any damage, just warmed up the battery a little.

Got it fixed, then hooked it up again. I'm at 29.7A at WOT using a 3S lipo, and around 10A at half throttle, so I should be OK now. Pretty sure I fried the other ESC as it was only rated at 15A.

Hmmm, I just went to the GWS website, and figured out that the LHS did NOT sell me a lipo ready ESC as I had asked for. I should have known that I needed one with the Li designator. So I need an ICS-600Li. This conversion has not gone well.

I may still fly it tomorrow and just keep the flights short (5 minutes or so).
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Old Jun 12, 2006, 01:58 PM
diligentia vis celeritas
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Corona, CA
Joined Feb 2006
3,547 Posts
bump...how did the remaiden go?...i just ordered the quad kit and also am thinking of using 180 motors...i think the 180s are only rated at 6-9 volts so i'm not sure how long they will survive with a 3s batt...
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Last edited by gunracer; Jun 12, 2006 at 02:05 PM.
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