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Old Jan 04, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Taiwan, 北市
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Hi Rich,

I'm afraid that rudder could not work so responsive as what ailerons do on such wing. Let me know how it makes turns if you decide to use rudder and elevator only.

Chen
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Old Jan 04, 2012, 06:59 PM
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United States, NJ, Frenchtown
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Thanks Chen.
I am installing A airleron system using .032" stiff wire in a close fitting plastic guide tube.
1 servo drives both airlerons & allows a clean wing.
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Old Jan 04, 2012, 07:24 PM
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Hi Rich,

Very good idea, that's the best one on markets. I did use the tube+wire one on my Kysho Melody long ago for controlling its elevator, the fully movable one. It's always not easy to have its neutral even the servo worked perfectly for me because I forgot to fix the curved tube firmly at the inside of its fuselage. The curved tube got moved always when the push rod wire moved forward/backward, the elevator stayed a little bit up when I released the stick from using up elevator, and a little bit down when the stick went back from down elevator.

The illustration on the picture tells you how to fix the tube better.

Chen
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Old Jan 04, 2012, 08:35 PM
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The plane below need rods more than 4 1/2' long. so I remembered that wire feed welders use about .032" diameter wire. 2 pieces of the plastic tubing did the length requirements.

The highly raised up elevator required a very flexiable control pushrod. .032" is ideal. I also forgot to put enough glue spots the first time I assembled the tubes. Same sloppy neutral point.
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Old Jan 04, 2012, 10:05 PM
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It looks like a PBY, but it is with two more engines.
I'm sure you'll put enough glue on the spot this time on your Cargotrans. I'd add more spots for fixing the tube better if I had to apply the same tube+wire again.

Chen
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Old Jan 05, 2012, 03:17 AM
Confused? Who, me?
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United Kingdom, England, North York
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclops2 View Post
Pat

Do you know if anyone has flown the quad with only Rudder & Elevator ? Was the control OK. I fly scale like. No stunt stuff.
I've flown my (prop) quadtrans both powered and (with the props off) as a sloper. It did both jobs well - flying scale like, but I definitely think you need the ailerons. It has no dihedral to speak of and I'd be very concerned about directional and roll neutrality without some aileron input.

Also, if its not too late, I'd let some thin c/f strip (edge on) into the fuselage top longitidinally ahead of the wing. If you have a sharp landing (something in which I have developed a considerable, albeit unwanted, expertise) the front end of the fuselage can buckle and you end up with humpty dumpty. Ask me how I know this
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Old Jan 05, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Chen

It is a Martin flying boat. My first scratch build attempt. That plane is hand hollowed out from solid blue foam block. I can hand launch it and run along side of it untill touchdown.
It still flies with the 4 ...6 volt 400 brushed motors & 1 BIG brushed ESC.
Very slow acceleration on water. About 100'. 1 wide circle & a perfectly level flair on touch down. Looks as boring as the real plane when it flies.
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Old Jan 05, 2012, 08:54 AM
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Roger

I just realized that I might be able to run the plastic airleron tubes in the bottom of the wing spar slot. lots of room for 6 motorleads & the plastic tube pushrod.

I will do the back bone implant of some kind.

Rich
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Sanding off the pimples adds more work ?

I finished sanding all the surfaces of whole plane. Looked great !

Then I saw all the dings I had put into it. By the the time I did the slotting for the airlerons. MORE dings. I am not filling any dings. I still have all the tails to do. Plus fitting the rest of the parts.

Do you guys do only 1 final ding filler after flight testing or as you build ?

Ding man.
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 12:50 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
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Try a little hot water to get the dings out. Then, use a coat or two of water based polycrylic (you can get the Minwax brand at Lowes or HD, works great!).

Pat
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 02:55 PM
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Thanks Pat

Do not get to be as old as I am !!
My new 2 year old 8 oz. of Epoxy self hardned. I have 4 mini hinges left. I have no liteweight spackle. No 3 mm X 5 mm adaptors, No small ESC ( have loads of BP Hobby 30 amps ), no small heatshrink for all the motor wire solder joints, No Polyester wing center joint cloth.

What the heck did I do / Think, was going to happen when I finished my last plane ?

I have to write everything down as soon as it needs to be replaced.
I forget to remember to write it down fast enough.

Rich
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 03:00 PM
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Pat

Did the recommended airleron throws do the job ? How about rudder & elevator ?

Rich
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 04:57 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
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Rich,

All recomended throws seemed to work fine for me.

Pat
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 10:22 PM
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Rich,

Take your time and take it easy.
You might be the first pilot/builder who intends to install four inrunners + gears on GWS Cargotrans. You have to solder many wires, and connect four ESC's in parallel with receiver, and battery pack as well. This is way more complicated than the stock brushed set up. Good luck

Chen
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 07:23 AM
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Hi Chen

I just finished The sanding & lite weight spackling of all the dings & filling in of the un-needed airleron cutout in the wings. It took me about 1 hour. Buut This will be my best looking GWS plane.
The solid Copper Thermostat wire, 18 guage, is perfect for these 12 mm sized motors. The 3 conductor has 3 different colors. So I only have to make the 3 wires of the 4 th motor black with a black felt tipped marker. No possible wiring errors. White, red, green & black.

Voltage drop at 11 volts & 6 amps. is .15 volts total. Very good in my book. I am soldering all connections to eliminate oversized connector plugs & pins.
This is turning into a enjoyable project. DIY is always more fun.

Edit

The elevator wire is .056" The electrical wire is .050".
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