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Old Sep 15, 2009, 04:15 PM
Downtown Minneapolis
USA, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Feb 2009
197 Posts
Hey man thanks, I can return the slow fly props then since I have not opened them. Does the 13x6.5 give you a different feel while flying slow? More wash? Why would one not use a sf prop on that motor bro?
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Old Sep 16, 2009, 05:22 PM
Registered User
Derby, UK
Joined Nov 2004
213 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by iAdam
Hey man thanks, I can return the slow fly props then since I have not opened them. Does the 13x6.5 give you a different feel while flying slow? More wash? Why would one not use a sf prop on that motor bro?
they are only rated to 5000 rpm, or something like that. basically very light duty only. even the DD GWS aren't designed for big power. I think - someone jump in if I'm off the mark.
N.
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Old Sep 16, 2009, 07:10 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
26,097 Posts
Guys...

One for sale...

Acromaster for sale on RC groups

SteveT
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Last edited by SteveT.; Sep 17, 2009 at 10:04 PM.
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 11:42 AM
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Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jotore - Page 272
Hi, folks!

Got my AM almost ready by now, but after reading tons of messages in this thread about the "MOOOO"-sound and the nose most likely to break/fall off i'm not sure what to do from now on. Have followed the instructions and just finished the sloppy UC. Any ideas how to silence my bird with the fuse glued? Have some "neutral silicone sealant" (sanitary- &building silicone) that cures Real slow (1-2mm a day). Was thinking about putting this around the motormount and on the fuse-walls. This will take days to finish and i'm not sure if it helps at all. Got CF tape, CF mat, fiberglass cloths and so on, but it's a bit late for that now with the fuse glued, or is it any way to get this done when glued? Any point to use a epoxy-brush to add the strongest epoxy on the fuse-walls, or is it just waist of time.. Does anybody know whats my best draw at this stage? I really appreciate any tips/comments/thoughts on this, since the mods told here either have to be done before gluing the fuse or after cutting the nose off.

Best;
Jo
I know it's oddly late to bump this quote, but anyone mind providing an answer? FYI I have exactly the same problem.
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 12:54 PM
currently 3D-Dabbler
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Richmond, VA
Joined Aug 2009
177 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErlendF

Quote:
Originally Posted by jotore
Originally Posted by jotore - Page 272
Hi, folks!

Got my AM almost ready by now, but after reading tons of messages in this thread about the "MOOOO"-sound and the nose most likely to break/fall off i'm not sure what to do from now on. Have followed the instructions and just finished the sloppy UC. Any ideas how to silence my bird with the fuse glued? Have some "neutral silicone sealant" (sanitary- &building silicone) that cures Real slow (1-2mm a day). Was thinking about putting this around the motormount and on the fuse-walls. This will take days to finish and i'm not sure if it helps at all. Got CF tape, CF mat, fiberglass cloths and so on, but it's a bit late for that now with the fuse glued, or is it any way to get this done when glued? Any point to use a epoxy-brush to add the strongest epoxy on the fuse-walls, or is it just waist of time.. Does anybody know whats my best draw at this stage? I really appreciate any tips/comments/thoughts on this, since the mods told here either have to be done before gluing the fuse or after cutting the nose off.

Best;
Jo
I know it's oddly late to bump this quote, but anyone mind providing an answer? FYI I have exactly the same problem.

I discovered this after everything was together as well. I epoxied the plastic motor mount support that goes across the 2 motor mounts on the sides. (This kept popping out after each moooo. The CA glue was not strong enough to keep it in.)

I cut out 1/8" plywood and put it over the top of the plastic motor mounts. I epoxied it into place. I experimented with cardboard with a couple of shapes before cutting the plywood.

Then I cut an 1/8" piece of plywood to ride on both the top and bottom of plywood / plastic motor mount rails. I Epoxied this to the plastic brace in the back.

I also regularly check and tighten all of the motor mounting screws and nuts.

I still get get the mooo from time to time when the screws loosen up. I should probably put some lock tight on them. Additionally, it seems like the 11x5.5 prop has some sort of resonant frequency that increases the liklihood of a Mooo. When I use a 10x5, 10x6, or 12x6 prop, I don't get any Mooing.

There was also a good tip a few pages back to put some sort of padding (card board, duct tape, etc) behind the motor mount plate and the motor mounts themselves. This dampens the thrust adjustment screws and stopped motor mount plate from vibrating on the ends of the motor mount. For that pilot, it seemed to stop random Mooing after the bracing was in place. I haven't tried this but plan to.


-Mike
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Old Oct 04, 2009, 04:35 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I'll see what I can get out of it.

I already secured the plastic brace in the back of the motor mount by placing a small piece of wood I cut before it and drilling through the sides of the fuselage to secure it. Then I dripped some extra CA glue around it (although I highly doubt it makes a difference) for the sake of it. I've test-flown it a few times and achieved better results, although it still doesn't tackle full throttle (using the standard Himax) without getting heavy resonance and mooing.

Have considered attaching some plywood for a while. I especially liked the idea of placing padding, like you said - duct-tape, cardboard - between the motor mount plate and the ends of the motor mount, dampening the vibrations there. This may just work perfectly for me.
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Old Oct 04, 2009, 07:29 PM
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Livermore, CA
Joined Sep 2004
8,573 Posts
For those of you tired of a weak nose area, I'm selling my modified kit that has the nose area carbonfibered to put in a regular plywood motor mount.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1121296
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Old Oct 10, 2009, 04:15 PM
Parkflyer
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St. Pete, FL
Joined Feb 2008
661 Posts
Subscribed...

Looking at this to be my next plane. Heavy in research mode now...
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Old Oct 10, 2009, 04:44 PM
Downtown Minneapolis
USA, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Feb 2009
197 Posts
Welcome, what have you been flying? What are ya looking for in your next plane? Nothing else out there quite like the Acromaster, which is unfortunate because it limits choice.
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Old Oct 10, 2009, 04:54 PM
Parkflyer
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St. Pete, FL
Joined Feb 2008
661 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by iAdam
Welcome, what have you been flying? What are ya looking for in your next plane? Nothing else out there quite like the Acromaster, which is unfortunate because it limits choice.

Sorry... maybe I should introduce myself, this is a HUGE forum.

Name's Darren... been flying Helicopters for a long while now, and most recently a Parkzone Corsair. I have hundreds upon hundreds of hours on the Real Flight G4.5 sim... and I mostly fly the Yak or the Giant Scale Katana. I love doing 3D with the planes on the sim... and needless to say, I try to fly the Corsair a bit too agressively in real life.

I'm really getting into painting the Corsair, to look more "scale" but, it's still a foamy warbird. I am not into the speed thing... I want something that is capable of 3D flight, very responsive, and accurate... will go where I point it, and can handle a bit of wind... I live in St. Petersburg, Florida... and it's generally always a bit "gusty" here.

What I am looking for, is a foam type airplane that I can use my existing battery packs. I have a metric ton of 2200 mAh 25c 3S packs, and a few 3200 mAh packs.

This is about the size plane I am looking for, big enough to fly at the field, and yet small enough for a softball field. I have been watching this thread for a while, and have watched most of the Youtube vids...

I like how agressive this plane can fly, and it also is very stable and mild mannered when you want it to be.

I have a Power 10, and another 450 sized 1100 kV motor, several 30, 40 and 60 amp esc's... bunches of HS-50, HS-65, HS-55 servos, and a spare AR-6200 Spektrum receiver... My radio is a DX6i.

I'm open to suggestions... but this plane just flat out appeals to me.
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Old Oct 10, 2009, 06:07 PM
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Joined Jan 2006
434 Posts
Darren

As someone who has had one of these since they came out, the best advice I can give is buy a SebArt Katana insted, does not need any modifications to make it work and will fly as well if not better than the Acromaster in 3D.

The Acromaster will not last long before you need to start beefing things up to make them stay together, especially the motor mount which will fail in very quick order.

Mike
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Old Oct 10, 2009, 06:16 PM
Downtown Minneapolis
USA, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Feb 2009
197 Posts
Similar to you I started with helis, I now fly a Protos as my main aircraft. I took the plunge into airplanes and though I burned thru some other models, I finally decided to grab one. It is everything you wanted in a plane I think with the exception that is does not hover as well as its brother the ParkMaster. The Acro is more considered a 3d pattern plane. I would highly suggest it. I researched a ton and could not find anything close. Strong foam with a built up fuse. Surfboard for a wing, and like the Protos is not out of place at the local park, or at the flying field. Easily in and out of car and looks great. I painted mine.
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Old Oct 12, 2009, 05:37 AM
Beware Of The Shills !!!
Chichester Sussex
Joined Aug 2007
2,451 Posts
I think at the level you're at it woud be a great choice before going to a Balsa 3D plane as they're much easier to repair as well as withstanding more punishment in the 1st place.
I hadn't flown mine for months and took it out last week and had forgotten how good it was.
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Old Oct 12, 2009, 08:12 AM
Parkflyer
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St. Pete, FL
Joined Feb 2008
661 Posts
Mine is on it's way. Ordered it from Horizon... it was a toss up between this plane and the Parkmaster... I decided because I already have a few motors / esc's that I can use on this plane, as well as a ton of 2200 mAh batts both 25C and 30C.

I plan on powering it with an E Flite Power 10, and a Hobby Wing 60A ESC. I have the Power 10 and a GForce E480 to choose from, I think the Power 10 will make a better choice for this plane.

I have read this entire thread, and saw the weaknesses that people make note of. Before I assemble the Fuse... I will definitely reinforce the nose area.

With the Power 10 set up, what would you recommend as a starting point as far as props go? I have a Watt meter, so I can make sure the Amps/Watts/Volts are within range...

Here's the specs on the GForce motor... am I on track thinking the Power 10 would be a better choice?

http://www.valuehobby.com/product_de...id=1&item_id=7
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Old Oct 12, 2009, 08:25 AM
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United States, TX, Austin
Joined Dec 2006
13,752 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KiltedRanger
Mine is on it's way. Ordered it from Horizon... it was a toss up between this plane and the Parkmaster... I decided because I already have a few motors / esc's that I can use on this plane, as well as a ton of 2200 mAh batts both 25C and 30C.

I plan on powering it with an E Flite Power 10, and a Hobby Wing 60A ESC. I have the Power 10 and a GForce E480 to choose from, I think the Power 10 will make a better choice for this plane.

I have read this entire thread, and saw the weaknesses that people make note of. Before I assemble the Fuse... I will definitely reinforce the nose area.

With the Power 10 set up, what would you recommend as a starting point as far as props go? I have a Watt meter, so I can make sure the Amps/Watts/Volts are within range...

Here's the specs on the GForce motor... am I on track thinking the Power 10 would be a better choice?

http://www.valuehobby.com/product_de...id=1&item_id=7
I'm using the Omega 103G 1030kv in mine and really enjoying the performance. Plenty of power for hover ! Not ballistic pullout, but it's enough for me You'll need a 4mm collet adapter. Also, the motor mount allows only 2 bolts for this motor (no problems so far).

Currently using 13x6.5 APC (xoar 13x7 in vid)
HS-65 x 2 ailerons
HS-82mg tail
3S 2200 25C
AR 500 RX
CC BEC @ 6V
Re-enforced nose, CF gear mounted to custom landing gear plate.

Eddie takes a pull on the Acromaster @ TT (7 min 32 sec)
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Last edited by Lonelasso; Oct 12, 2009 at 08:32 AM.
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