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Old Jun 10, 2008, 12:54 AM
Fast, faster & fast again
North Hollywood, CA
Joined Jul 2007
1,210 Posts
Everyone has their own experiences but personally I never trust most canopy's. Today was the perfect example. On my Funjets, I always use a 1/2 velcro strap because I go 120mph+ but I've seen guys with regular set ups lose their canopy's. On my planes with covering, I just use a piece of clear tape at the opposite end of where the latch might be and never had an issue. Today, I went to fly my Parkzone T-28 because I changed motors out from a Power 25 (I know, ridiculous, but I'm a speed freak) to the Scorpion 3014-18 which is a Power 10 equal. Normally I put a piece of clear packing tape on the back end of the canopy but decided not to this time. I flew for about 4 minutes, coming around I was doing some inverted figure 8's and I saw something seperate from the plane. Luckily it was where I could watch the falling CANOPY and try to land my plane as my battery was hanging out on the left side of the plane. This could have been a disaster especially being inverted and then flipping over to try and land while the wires and battery are hanging out of the plane. I was able to land safely and really couldn't believe the CG didn't get thrown way off. So, my point is, I will never fly again without some kind of insurance on my canopy. Just a word of caution.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed E Freak
My canopy is ridiculously tight, there's no way on earth that it'd come off by accident. Just used the standard clips that came in the kit. I have to proper pull at it to get it off.
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Old Jun 10, 2008, 12:56 AM
Fast, faster & fast again
North Hollywood, CA
Joined Jul 2007
1,210 Posts
Hmm, my Acro Master is new and I didn't receive any addendum. What does it say about fixing the vibrations. Of course, I'm 3/4 done so I doubt I'll be able to make the fixes, but it would be good to know what they are. Thanks.

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob10000
What changed about the UC plate? I am putting together a second AM for myself (I love it so much, I want an identical back-up it case something unfortunate happens!) and I didn't notice anything different from the one I build last year. Heres a picture from way back in the thread (Jul 23, 2006) which shows what appers to be the same plate, too...


What I did notice is a addendum to the instructions that I don't remember seeing in my original build. It deals with the vibrations many people have been experiencing and steps to take to lessen the possibility of it happening.
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Old Jun 10, 2008, 01:48 AM
Fast, faster & fast again
North Hollywood, CA
Joined Jul 2007
1,210 Posts
Wow, they must have just changed those things because I bought mine less than a month ago and it seems I have the older style stuff. Darn, that kind of irritates me. Oh well, I'll just have to buy another one. Gee, the excuses we come up with to justify our purchases.

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by breeza
Just got a second acromaster and on quick inspection there are a few minor differences from my first:

Motor mounts have extra surface area to glue to the foam that protrude at 90 degrees from the main mounts, landing gear mount now has a screw to retain the wire instead of a plastic clip, wheels are now pre built instead of hub and two halves and it all comes packed much more securely in a foam retainer.
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Old Jun 10, 2008, 05:01 AM
Beware Of The Shills !!!
Chichester Sussex
Joined Aug 2007
2,511 Posts
If anybody has got a "new copy" and could post the recommendations would be appreciated aas I also bought one fairly recently and it didn't have the recommendations but does have the vibration !!!!
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Old Jun 10, 2008, 03:09 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2006
6 Posts
hi all acromasters

just bought me an acromaster and at this point its ready to fly!
I have put the cg around 115mm from the leading edge!
Which travels should i have on the surfaces and expo?

Pleace help a swedish multiplex freak out!

Reg. Tobias
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 04:54 AM
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Joined Jan 2006
434 Posts
If you are getting bad vibrations, check the cross brace at the back of the motor mount is still firmly attached, if neccesary drill all the way through the sides of the plane and put in a threaded bar with nuts on the inside and outside to hold it firm, I firbreglassed in a carbon rod, but thought afterwards the threaded bar would be easier, this mod eliminated all the vibration from my Acromaster.

The lack of doing the above may be the reason some have had nose failiers, all due to vibration fatigue.

Mike
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 12:36 PM
Chuck it and see!
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UK, Cambridgeshire, Huntingdonshire
Joined Sep 2006
1,379 Posts
It is easy to forget to put in that brace bar. Check that you have it fitted. I built mine a couple of days ago and there is no vibration at all. Smooth as a Singer. I'll post some pictures. As it comes out of the box, the nose and undercarriage are as strong as they need to be... If you are able to land ok.
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 02:26 PM
Fast, faster & fast again
North Hollywood, CA
Joined Jul 2007
1,210 Posts
Man, I thought I was the only one who had that issue with the fuse being out of align. Kind of like it was distorted because it wasn't sitting flat or something. I'll be doing a maiden today and see how it does. Getting the CG is kind of a pain since if you are just a hair off the marks it can tip either way. Not as easy to get it right as the Funjet was. Here's my set up for now until I see how it fly's.

Mega 22/20/3
Thunder Power 3s-2200 V2's and FlightPower 3s-2170's (Both are 25C but I may end up going parallel with same like batteries to get 4400 and 4340mHa)
Castle Creations Phoenix 80 w/seperate BEC (Just in case I go 4s)
Hitec HS-81's for rudder and elevator
Hitec HS-65's for ailerons
AUW is about 1100g

Everything set up as per instructions. I'm a bit worried about the motor mount settings though. I screwed the 4 adjusting screws all the way in and then slowly turned the 2 mounting screws in until the motor seem to be free of any play. I guess I'll see if I need to make any down or side thrust adjustments after my first flight. I may end up turning this into a hand launcher if all goes well. Nose seems a bit thin but I'm going to have to trust Multiplex knew what they were doing here. I'm really looking for this plane to be more of a sport or pattern type plane rather than a 3D bird.

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by jernejk
Those are just presets anyhow. I was trimming my AM today and I had to set A LOT of right and up(??) thrust.

I seem to have a problem with the fuselage. When I was assembling tail section, I noticed the fin and the bottom part of the fuselage were out of line. I managed to glue them toghether, but the plane doesn't roll in axis but rather does a kind of barell roll. It's a pitty really, beacouse she's a very fine plane othervise.

Rgs
Jernej
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 03:51 PM
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Joined Oct 2004
836 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimweda
Getting the CG is kind of a pain since if you are just a hair off the marks it can tip either way.
Jim
Are you checking for CG with the plane upside down?

Quote:
I seem to have a problem with the fuselage. When I was assembling tail section, I noticed the fin and the bottom part of the fuselage were out of line. I managed to glue them toghether, but the plane doesn't roll in axis but rather does a kind of barell roll. It's a pitty really, beacouse she's a very fine plane othervise.

Rgs
Jernej
My first question would be, "Did you set up the recommended amount of aileron differential?" If so, don't be afriad to experiment with different amounts, every airplane is an individual, and may require more or less.
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Last edited by rob10000; Jun 11, 2008 at 04:17 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 04:14 PM
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Derby, UK
Joined Nov 2004
213 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimweda
Regarding your tail wheel assembly. The wire is actually supposed to go into a groove you cut in the foam and then glued in. To me the instructions were a little vague or I just had a brain fart, but after I kept reading it I started to understand what they were talking about. Of course this was after I said the heck with it and instead of doing it that way, I took the 90 degree bend, pointed it straight out the tail and when I pushed the hinge in I also let the wire bury itself into the rudder as both were being CA'd in. Seems to be fine but I'm sure many of us interpreted the instructions in different ways.

Jim
Jim, the way you did it sounds normal to me - I don't understand the benefit of the complicated method Mpx use to glue it at a random 30 degree angle. I can't see any extra strength or avoiding other hardware. Is it simply to ensure a good glue joint to the horn surface so it doesn't break free and slop around inside the rudder, trashing the foam. Pushing it in straight may make a good glue joint harder to ensure but hey, that's how I've just put all the hinges in . Anyone thoughts on the angle business?

Nigel
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 01:30 AM
Fast, faster & fast again
North Hollywood, CA
Joined Jul 2007
1,210 Posts
Are you serious about checking the CG upside down? With the exception of my GWS P51 Mustang I've always checked the CG with the plane right side up. The manual doesn't state to check it upside down. Is this how everyone else is doing it and what are the advantages or disadvantages of checking the CG this way. Thanks.

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob10000
Are you checking for CG with the plane upside down?



My first question would be, "Did you set up the recommended amount of aileron differential?" If so, don't be afriad to experiment with different amounts, every airplane is an individual, and may require more or less.
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 01:32 AM
Fast, faster & fast again
North Hollywood, CA
Joined Jul 2007
1,210 Posts
Well, now that you put it that way, if I was really thinking about that I would have shoved a skinny enough carbon tube in there before pushing the tailwheel wire in there. Gee, thanks Nigel! J/K

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymonkey
Jim, the way you did it sounds normal to me - I don't understand the benefit of the complicated method Mpx use to glue it at a random 30 degree angle. I can't see any extra strength or avoiding other hardware. Is it simply to ensure a good glue joint to the horn surface so it doesn't break free and slop around inside the rudder, trashing the foam. Pushing it in straight may make a good glue joint harder to ensure but hey, that's how I've just put all the hinges in . Anyone thoughts on the angle business?

Nigel
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 05:08 AM
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Joined Jan 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimweda
Are you serious about checking the CG upside down? With the exception of my GWS P51 Mustang I've always checked the CG with the plane right side up. The manual doesn't state to check it upside down. Is this how everyone else is doing it and what are the advantages or disadvantages of checking the CG this way. Thanks.

Jim
Yes he is serious, because there is more mass above the wing once you put it on a CofG ballancer it will tip back and forth, with the plane upsidedown you have more mass below and the plane should ballance level.

Mike
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 04:05 PM
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Joined Nov 2004
177 Posts
Turnigy 2R35-42D update

I'd thought I'd update you on the Turnigy 2R35-42D 1000KV motor from Hobby city. I'm running a 13 X6.5 APC prop pulling about 360 watts, 1100 feet above sea level. I'm using a 2300 ma 25 C 3S lipo. Maiden voyage was great. I only required 2 clicks of up and she flew true as an arrow. CG is set at 115 mm with rates set as per the instruction book.

The motor's performance was flawless, and at no time did I need more than 2/3 power. The first flight was just basic rolls, hammerheads, loops etc. (it tail slides great) I brought it down after 6 minutes so I could recharge and get an Idea of how many amps I was using. (1120 ma). 2nd flight was going great when I got a little carried away and lost a low level harrier when the wind hit me and I dumb thumbed it into the pavement. No real damage to the acro but broke a prop and bent the shaft on the Turnigy. I've now ordered another motor and a couple of extra shafts because I thought it was 29 bucks well spent. What a fun airplane.

Just found out it was the prop adapter, not the shaft.
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Last edited by cgblues; Jun 12, 2008 at 05:43 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 06:29 PM
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Joined Jan 2006
2,376 Posts
You can also get those shafts from Gemini Power Systems
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