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Old Jul 26, 2006, 07:53 AM
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Houston, TX
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Landing Gear

It seems that wire landing gear almost always has difficulty on grass, especially with heavier planes. I saw on a Magister thread, that at one field, all the Magister owners had removed the wire mod because it was causing too much drag with their grass. Has anyone attempted to use CF, fiberglass, or aluminum gear on planes of this size/weight? Which material is best?
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 08:59 AM
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I think the trick is to go to bigger wheels.
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 11:42 AM
Hold my beer and watch this!
Jeremy Z's Avatar
Northern IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraaijer
Might want to get rid of the tail wheel first
If I get rid of the tail wheel, I'd have to install a skid so the rudder does not get pulled off of its hinges from dragging in the grass. (I had that happen on my Formosa, what a pain in the butt!) I'll think on it. I need to get an ESC before it becomes an issue.
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 02:05 PM
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Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasFlyer
It seems that wire landing gear almost always has difficulty on grass, especially with heavier planes. I saw on a Magister thread, that at one field, all the Magister owners had removed the wire mod because it was causing too much drag with their grass. Has anyone attempted to use CF, fiberglass, or aluminum gear on planes of this size/weight? Which material is best?
The wire is actually very useful and will not drag in the grass (unless it's like 8 cm high).
I just added this wire to the AM and it's a huge difference even in somewhat higher grass.
Where I had problems landing on the grass strip yesterday, today after having added the wire landings were a breeze.
I also got rid of the wheel pants, they're a pain in the butt with high grass.
Somebody proposed this mod earlier in this thread, try it it's really good!

Now I just have to deal with the vibration. I determined that it comes from the motor mount. This is also a problem that the Magister had.

Any suggestions on a mod for th mount?

Cheers,

Ron
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 02:13 PM
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Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Z
If I get rid of the tail wheel, I'd have to install a skid so the rudder does not get pulled off of its hinges from dragging in the grass. (I had that happen on my Formosa, what a pain in the butt!) I'll think on it. I need to get an ESC before it becomes an issue.
Yesterday my gear got ripped of. I still wanted to fly though so I hand launched it (I actually just held it vertical and let go of it ) and then belly landed it. Tail wheel was still attached but did not really suffer from it. There was a noticable change in flight behaviour, more responsive to controls.

So it would make sense to get rid of the gear all together, but indeed you want maybe to replace the tail wheel with just a little piece of foam or something to protect the rudder. And of course, you would not care for the landings on wheels

In the mean time I made a UC mod, see above.

Let us know if you decide to go this way and if you notice changes in flight characteristics too...

Ron
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraaijer
Any suggestions on a mod for th mount?
I don't have an AM yet to look at, but from looking at the picture in the instructions, I'm wondering if it would help to put rubber washers between the part of the mount that connects to the motor (part 65) and that part that is glued to the fuse (part 60)? That de-couples the two and should reduce vibration transfer. This would hopefully have the same affect as the rubber motor mounts in cars. Then again, I'm just guessing since I don't have the physical parts in my hands.

Alan
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasFlyer
I don't have an AM yet to look at, but from looking at the picture in the instructions, I'm wondering if it would help to put rubber washers between the part of the mount that connects to the motor (part 65) and that part that is glued to the fuse (part 60)? That de-couples the two and should reduce vibration transfer. This would hopefully have the same affect as the rubber motor mounts in cars. Then again, I'm just guessing since I don't have the physical parts in my hands.

Alan
Worth a try, I'll let you know what gives...
Thx
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 03:55 PM
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I don´t think it would work . For me the main problem is the part 65 being too soft and allowing the vibes to gain in amplitude , the same for the fuse itself.

The trick is to lower the vibes where produced , in the prop ,spinner and in the motor rotor itself . Also look at the prop maybe its going out of track (the tips) and a certain rpm range . In big props (menz S) is normal to reshape the prop at the hub so the tips has the same angle of attack , plastiline (modelling clay) is used to compare both tips.

Cheers.
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 05:00 PM
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Noise with Himax 3516?

I have a Himax 3516-1130 on another foam plane (not Elapor) and have never experienced any vibration after dozens of flights. So I looked back in this thread to see what motors were used when noise was experienced. Of the two that mentioned their motors, one was a Hacker and one was a Kontronik. Has anyone experienced the vibration/noise with the Himax 3516-1130? With this issue being so prevalent, you'd think Multiplex would have noticed it, but they probably only tested with their recommended setup.

Alan
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 11:41 PM
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53859 Niederkassel, Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MalteS
Dear all,

My AM is also finished. The Kit is very nice and complete. Easy to build. Mine is equpped with:
Kontonik Kora 10-16
APC-E 12x6
Kontonik Swing 4100 Lipo
Hitec HS81 and HS50
Tanic 2480 3s
...
Malte
Hi Malte,

I hope you did not install HS50, but at least the recommended HS55.

The HS65 is even more suited for a model like the AcroMaster.

Jürgen
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 11:45 PM
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53859 Niederkassel, Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Z
I'm sorry to hear they did not go with beefy landing gear for the weight of the plane, as they did on the MiniMag.
...
Actually, Multiplex uses the same landing gear on both models (MM and AM).

I find it very beefy for the MiniMag, but it is probably a bit weak for the AcroMaster. On the other hand, you expect the typical AM pilot to be a much better pilot than the typical MM pilot.

Jürgen
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Z
A few comments:

1) If you want to install the steerable tail wheel, you'd better have patience.
2) Thank you for the nice hinges. Now the bar has been raised for other Multiplex models. They are worth the extra time it takes to put them in.
...
6) Please give up on the canopy latch thing. Neodymium magnets would be worth the extra cost, would be more reliable, and would not snag on your fingers when you're fiddling around inside the fuse.
...
Patience for the tail wheel? Why?

There are better hinges for CA on the market (Mylar film hinges with a special coating), but I also used the ones in the kit.

Never had any trouble with the canopy latches (EasyStar, EasyGlider, TS II, MJ, FJ, MM), so I don't expect problems with the AM either.

Jürgen
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeezeypeeps
Ooooh! Thats' a bit daring. Don't you know the Wot4 is almost a religion in its self? Questioning it supremacy is tantamount to heresey

I'll get my Acromaster built this weekend and see if I want to join your cult
WOT4? I would rather compare the AcroMaster with the Acro-WOT.

Jürgen
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Z
...
I checked out the Kontronik Jazz 40A ESC:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGCW2&P=7

Son of a B TCH are they ever proud of their product! $170 for an ESC? I don't care HOW good it is, it can't contain more than $20 worth of parts. I'll try the Chinese one when I get the $$ together again.
...
Hi Jeremy,

A Mercedes cost a lot more than a Hyundai too.

You could also say: "You get what you pay for", or "Buy cheap - buy twice".

Instead of the Kontronik Jazz, you could also opt for the cheaper PIX 4000.
Both ESC's have overcurrent and short circuit protection (a blocked motor = short circuit).

Jürgen
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Old Jul 26, 2006, 11:59 PM
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53859 Niederkassel, Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rycomm
...
I used the HS81's on rudder and elevator, and HS65's on aileron. I noticed (too late) the manual said the other way around, but they fit better the way I mounted them. The EZG uses the 81's on on R&E, 55's on ailerons (much smaller ailerons though), There is only a few oz diff in torque of the 81's and 65s. Will I be OK?

Ryan
HS81 for rudder/elevator and HS55/65 for ailerons is correct.

Jürgen
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