Some people in Germany fly the 2814 with 20C 2200's and everything else to keep it light, you can win 20 grams by using lighter carbontubes instead of the stock ones in the wing etc.....

I donīt see any proplem in sustracting 375 watts from a mega 3 turn in burst mode , this is not the best of inrunners but surely can make those kind of power more efficiently than a weight comparable "cheap" outrunner ( 100-120 gr depend on gear)like the propossed himaxx.
tp 3s2p without two much wiring weights only 20 gr more than a pq3700 or kokam 3200
I can see a problem in mounting certain types of gearboxes to the supplied mount, any inline will work ,probably.

It depends on the Mega, chichi. I doubt that a 250 W inrunner would handle a 375 W burst more efficiently than a 350 W Himax. If you're talking about a 350 W Mega (do they make one?) then I agree. Inrunners are generally more efficient than outrunners, if you compare them apples to apples. But they are not magic machines.

Thanks for the input, I may end up with the power 10 anyway. Mounting the Mega inline GB would be no problem with the Mpx mount.
Jeremy, have you gotten yours together yet?
I'm thinking I may go to a CC phx 45 ESC and Tanic 2080s, but that's subject to change.
Thanks, Ryan

I'm starting to put together my AcroMaster and I'm confused about gluing together the elopar parts.

At the beginning of the instructions they say to use accelerator on one part and CA on the mating part. However in the section on gluing the fuselage it implies accelerator is not used because of the 2-3 minute cure time.

The question I have is, should accelerator be used on the fuselage? Is it really necessary anywhere? I had problems building my easystar because it cured too fast.

Any help here would be appreciated.

Dan

Hi Dan:

Two things

1) You ARE using medium or thick CA, right? The thin CA cures VERY fast, and no accelerator is needed.

2) No, it is not necessary at all. In fact, if you are patient, it is best not to use it. If you use too much, the chemical reaction can burn the foam.

I'm just starting construction of my AcroMaster tonight. I'm taking a break now.

Good luck!

Well Jeremy , ratings are by itself useless. What I know is how a 16/15/2 handles in a 1200gr airplane at 500 watts peak (200 watts average, throttle management) , and how slightly warm it is after 12 minutes flight.

Being a 3 turn slightly softer ,375 watts peak is easy on a 1000gr plane and surely can cope with 500 watts if using 4s lipos to get the amps down .

I have to say , Iīm not a big fan of geared inrunners because of the gears but when I build the big depron plane to use what was left from a edf crash , I have to say geared megas are great and pretty efficient at part throttle.

Have fun building your AM .

Hi all.
Got my AM on Wednesday and is now almost ready to go.
I'm using a Hyperion 3025/8 with a Hyperion 50amp opto esc and a 3s Evo 20c 2500ma pack. The prop is a 10x7 apc E and I'm getting about 350 watts out of it. This is a little less than I expected but I will try it out on Sunday. I also fly a funjet on a 16/15/4 and I'm pulling the same sort of watts out of it. The differance is that it's only a 7x4 prop which just won't work. Thats's why I'd always go for an out runner although I do have a couple of Himax inrunners I've yet to test (3615 and a 3630).

Jeremy I picked them up from your local hobby shop in Wheeling a couple of years ago whilst visiting my cousin, nice shop.
I'll tell you all how I get on with it on Sunday

Dave

Originally Posted by mudlark

Hi all.
Got my AM on Wednesday and is now almost ready to go.
I'm using a Hyperion 3025/8 with a Hyperion 50amp opto esc and a 3s Evo 20c 2500ma pack. The prop is a 10x7 apc E and I'm getting about 350 watts out of it. This is a little less than I expected but I will try it out on Sunday. I also fly a funjet on a 16/15/4 and I'm pulling the same sort of watts out of it. The differance is that it's only a 7x4 prop which just won't work. Thats's why I'd always go for an out runner although I do have a couple of Himax inrunners I've yet to test (3615 and a 3630).

Jeremy I picked them up from your local hobby shop in Wheeling a couple of years ago whilst visiting my cousin, nice shop.
I'll tell you all how I get on with it on Sunday

Dave

The figures for the Hyperion are as the data sheet

http://www.aircraft-world.com/prod_d.../z3025spec.htm

Possibly a 11X5.5 would be a better bet if you are looking for 3D.

Normal prop for the 16/15/4 would be 6X4 or similar. 7X4 is too large.

A few comments:

1) If you want to install the steerable tail wheel, you'd better have patience.
2) Thank you for the nice hinges. Now the bar has been raised for other Multiplex models. They are worth the extra time it takes to put them in.
3) If you want to save expensive CA and weight, use left-over GWS glue (contact cement) to put the fuse together and the wings together.
4) Multiplex needs to do a better job finishing the tips of the landing gear. From the factory, it is flared out, and impossible to get the wheels on without grinding off the flare.
5) Hitec: thank you for including 3D servo arms for the HS-55. Now, it's about time you do the same for the HS-81s, so we don't have to resort to bolt-on 3D arms...
6) Please give up on the canopy latch thing. Neodymium magnets would be worth the extra cost, would be more reliable, and would not snag on your fingers when you're fiddling around inside the fuse.
7) Thank you for not getting anyone's hopes up by including a crappy brushed motor.
8) It is easier to fit the completed tail, THEN glue it on than to put the glue on, then try to cram it all together before it starts to set up. (especially the rudder/vertical stabilizer assy.) Put it on, make sure it fits and lines up right. Then, put some thin CA in the cracks and give it a couple minutes. That will wick right into the cracks. Then, put some medium CA in the cracks, and let it soak in a bit. Spray the seams with accelerator, and you're all set. You'll have it all fit together, instead of trying to race with CA's short drying time. Don't try this with the rudder snakes, or it will end up going down the inside of the tube & ruining your day.

From what I see so far, this model is going to be a cut above the usual Multiplex models. (as it should be, for the extra $20-30)

Yep good build.
Gave up on the spats, glue wicks every where. Any way they'll break off in a week. Couldnt get the under carrage wire to lock in. Had to use a screw driver to get it to ping up but it pinged too far and not happy about secutity. Have added a couple of screws to keep secure.
Every thing elce it fine. Test tonight.
What is every-ones AUW???? mine is 1350g or 47oz
Dave

Here is another tip. Dont use CA to secure the cross member behind the motor bulkhead which stiffens up the motor mount frame. Harmonic vibes or whatever from a large outrunner motor will eventually just crack the ca joints loose and then ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE!

Use something stronger like epoxy or drill straight thru it and put a very thick CA tube thru the whole thing and epoxy it in place. Its a bit too flimsy in this area to last for long if you are using an aggressive prop.

Can you get this plane from anywhere in the U.S. yet?

Yetti, October is the rumored release date. I believe the name of the shop where we got them from is "Hoellin" or something similar. JeremyZ was in charge of making all of this happen for those of us lucky enough to have one.
This plane has a much largre presence than its 44" WS would suggest. I was considering a Ultrastick 25e for a larger plane, but I think the AM has more "mass" or whatever you want to call it. I pulled out the parts last night and friction fit them together and put it next to my Formosa and Estarter. It really looks big next to the 36" planes.

Ryan

www.hoellein.de
www.hoelleinshop.de
You can call them too, Stefan Hoellein speaks english

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