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Old Jan 27, 2006, 01:21 AM
Slopeaholic
Hutch's Avatar
Roseville, California, United States
Joined Mar 2001
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Awesome! I have been waiting for this one for so long! Keep em coming!

-hutch
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 01:34 AM
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sloperut's Avatar
Utah
Joined Jul 2003
487 Posts
Cryoflyer, your work bench is way too clean.

Nice looking build.

Jeff
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 08:51 AM
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It looks like a man can just never have enough files, screwdrivers, and pliers to go with his clamps!

Nice work Cryoflyer! A question. Should I start putting stantions on the bottom of every fuselage bulkhead to ease the assembly jigging of the fuse for builders? I had a discussion with Don Bailey on this the other day.

Any feedback?

Tom
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 09:39 PM
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New Mexico
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xxx
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 09:41 PM
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New Mexico
Joined Dec 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sloperut
Cryoflyer, your work bench is way too clean.

Nice looking build.

Jeff
Thanks Jeff, but Mrs. Monk never thinks it's clean enough. Frankly, I'm a little Monkish too, as is anyone who can stick it out long enough to finish one of these scale jobs.
Jim
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 10:07 PM
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 10:11 PM
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New Mexico
Joined Dec 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmartin55
It looks like a man can just never have enough files, screwdrivers, and pliers to go with his clamps!

Nice work Cryoflyer! A question. Should I start putting stantions on the bottom of every fuselage bulkhead to ease the assembly jigging of the fuse for builders? I had a discussion with Don Bailey on this the other day.

Any feedback?

Tom
Tom's question doesn't come out of the blue - he knows I've had some trouble getting a straight fuselage.
There are two different ways I've seen in this forum that result in a true fuselage. The method Hans Jacobs would have used is shown by MTT in his recent thread
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=469143
(for the 1/4 scale Scheibe L-Spatz 55). This uses a fuselage jig ('Helling' in German) You can anchor each and every bulkhead within the jig and then add all the longerons or stringers. Actually, one first adds the main longeron or fuselage 'spar' and then hangs all the bulkheads on this to begin the assembly.
The second mthod is shown beautifully by Vincent Bensacon in his recent build shown in http://www.retroplane.net/frankfort-model/page1.htm
This uses the stantions mentioned by Tom. It is somewhat more elegant, I think, but requires all of the bulkheads to be at 90 deg. to the work surface.
The 1-23 has bulkheads in the front portion of the fuselage that tip both fore-and aftward, so it would be difficult to apply here. But in the 1-23, the front end goes together without any alignment difficulties because of the interlocking tabs. I had trouble in the rear section, primarily due to the warpage in the laser cut sheet that contained the sides. The two sides were both same-handed, so I could not oppose the warpages. Tom is going to ensure that there will be both a right- and a left-handed side in the future, so this will make it easier. Also, I would suggest ply, not balsa, for the rear upper and lower keels. When I built up the rear end, I first glued all the bulkheads between these two balsa keels. The whole rear end could wriggle like a snake! And twist (roll) too! The sides stabalized everything, but in spite of my attempts to steam them straight, I couldn't make up for all the initial warpage.
But is it worth it in a 1/5 scale model? Even if the empennage doesn't come out perfectly aligned, it probably won't affect the flight characterists too much, will it? But I'll let all you experts comment on this point.
So Tom, my answer is, just make left and right sides. Maybe use stantions for your 1/4 or larger kits, if you are willing to accept the extra cost.
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Old Jan 28, 2006, 03:26 PM
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United States, WA, Snohomish
Joined Mar 2001
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Stanchions

Jim and Tom,

I am a huge fan of the "stanchion" method (this is the correct spelling, btw). Even when the bulkheads do not stand normal to the working surface, they are a great way to locate the formers in their respective positions, both vertically and on-centerline.

I have the CNC Modellbau Ka1 kit, and all the machined ply bulkheads have integral stanchions. The intent is for the builder to lay down two guide rails (like railroad tracks) on the building board, then glue the stanchions between these at their respective stations. This locates the formers on-centerline, so that you don't end up with a banana fuselage. In the event of warped ply sides, such as on the 1-23, as long as the stanchions are firmly anchored, the warps will be driven out into the anchored formers-- at least until you break the assembly away and the whole fuselage springs! Hopefully, the full complement of planking strips will have been added, and there will be enough torsional rigidity to counter the residual stresses of the warped wood side pieces.

When I built my Elliot's of Newbury Olympia 419 fuselage, I used this same method, only the stanchions were just planks of ply that I temporarily glued to the formers. Once the balsa strip planking was added, I was able to free the assembly from the baseboard (shelfing white pine plank) and break the stanchions off the formers. Worked GREAT.

Don Bailey
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Old Jan 28, 2006, 03:36 PM
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United States, MN, Bemidji
Joined May 2003
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Nice work! Looking forward to the rest of the build!
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Old Jan 28, 2006, 05:17 PM
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Joined Mar 2004
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I agree Don, although it should not matter if the kit includes them or not to build using this jigging method, I believe we will start to include them to help the builder. With a keyed center rail it shouldn't matter either if the bulkheads cant forward or back, since the center rail of the tracks can accomodate those angles as well as the correct spacing. By cutting notches in the outer corners of each stanchion (I stand corrected) they can be more easily cemented to the outside rails.

Nice looking KA fuse Don!

Tom
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Old Jan 30, 2006, 11:17 PM
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Tom, I'm glad to hear you will start to include stanchions on the bulkheads in your kits. I for one am happy to pay the extra cost of a few extra sheets of 1/8 ply. It will make the fuselage build more accurate and save time in the end. I don't think any of us will have any difficulty in finding a suitable straight piece of solid stock to form the reference spine for the stanchions. Metal would be great, but a nice spruce spar 1/8 x 3/8 glued down straight on a level plank would probably work just fine too.
Other suggestions?
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Old Feb 11, 2006, 07:49 AM
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Bremen/Germany
Joined Apr 2004
467 Posts
Hello,

I think it is time to pick up the thread about the building of the 1-23.

Being (one of?) the first owner(s) of Tom`s kit on this side of the Atlantic Ocean, I would like to tell you that I started to build the plane about a week ago by laying down the first wing half. I prefer to do the wings first as I find wing building somewhat boring and I want to have them ready when it comes to adjusting the wing joiner setup in the fuselage.

Building the 1-23 makes an age-old dream come true - no kidding - as I first saw it in the movie "The Thomas Crown Affair" when Steve McQueen took her through the pattern. That was way back in 1968/69 as a student and, being a member of a R/C club with a high interest in scale sailplanes then, I thought that this plane would be a fine project which would combine good looks with a relative ease to build. I also was lucky to get three-views and data right away and made plans in my dreams.. but then professional life started and the project had to be postponed - but never forgotten! To demonstrate this: I found the Sterling 1-34 kit in 1972 during a business trip to the U.S.A. and built and flew it with good success - and this could well become my next project but then in 4-m span.

About a year ago, I bumped into Tom`s homepage and when he announced the 1-23, I was enthused again and being in retirement now, there are no excuses any more...

Cryoflyer,

your remarks about the fuselage built have allready been interesting for me. I shall build it using simple triangular pieces bolted down to the board as a jig.

Photos can be provided as I shall document the building for AUFWIND, the German counterpart of QF, where I have been an author for over ten years.
But... some knowledgeable person should please tell me how photos are placed here in the forum.

Herbert
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Old Feb 11, 2006, 11:58 AM
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Joined Mar 2004
2,410 Posts
Looking forward to your posts Herbert. To load images you will see that there is a "new reply" button at the bottom of the last post in the left corner which brings up the advanced reply options where you will click on the "Manage Attachments" button. Otherwise you can click the "Go Advanced" button on the bottom of the reply pane that appears at the bottom of every thread page and it will lead you to the same options, only you can type your message first and if you decide to go advanced your message will be carried over to the advanced options page without being lost.

Try to make your images about 8" wide by 72 pixel resolution per inch and they will load quickly and view well.

Tom
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Old Feb 13, 2006, 04:33 PM
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Bremen/Germany
Joined Apr 2004
467 Posts
Well,

this is my first trial to upload a photo?! Hope it works - and thanks, Tom!

This is how far I got until now with the first wing half. Contrary to Tom`s manual, I prefer to build the wing based on the precut lower sheeting. Another change are the ailerons as I would not get the indicated rear edge stock and for warpage reasons, I also prefer a fully sheeted construction rather than stock material or an open rib/spar frame. Also I positioned the balsa webbing for the outer ribs in between the upper and lower spar which is a little more work but makes a relatively stiff frame.

Next come the remaining ribs, the little riblets behind the subspars, the servos mounts and air brake and then as the final steps the upper sheeting 8including wash-out) and the root rib.

I shall be away from home for about three weeks now so progress won`t be reported before mid of March.

Herbert
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