Wow, all your birds out there are looking great fellas! I love Navy schems to death and a good SEA AF Camo scheme makes my day, any day. Great job guys!

Originally Posted by falcon5

She knows when I get a new project I devote just about every waking moment to it until it is done. Good thing I lean towards ARF's So, she has a couple weekends planed with the girl friends. Uhh, well at least that's what she told me

Ahh let's see...Page 1

I think many of suffer from the same affliction Andy...lol

Anyway, just wanted to say I had an opportunity to look at the ED version of the JHH A7 at a local hobby shop yesterday. Awsome plane. Period. The hobby shop owner is going to fly his with ICDF power.

I am saving my pennies right now for the electric version.

Larry and Chris,You guys need to do the same treatment to your A-4. Pleeeeeeeeease? Don't make me beg.... Doug

Doug,
I'm sure it is just a matter of time before we see most of their airframes in this format.

Cool deal Andy! The kit got there quickly. If you have any questions just let me know.

@ Doug, Well, we do have an A-4 in the works...slowly. It's the same scale as the current one and 100% scale. This results in it being about 6-12" longer. It's nice.


Chris

Chris , keep it the same size with sport wing, if you go scale your inlets are gonna suffer unless it's for turbine. Just have the fuse ready to go with cutouts done and composit wing. Revise inlet ducting to suit a pack in-between or saddles pushed forward. I was going to mount my T/F 4000 in the rear hatch bulkhead former but ended up selling the plane (mistake). Just trying to help, Doug

cool chris, i see that old 100% scale A-4 plug is getting some use!

plus, SKY RAY SKY RAY!

i dont care what it costs, i will save pennies and dimes to buy the big skyray!

@ Doug, The new A-4 design flew quite a few years ago on DF and flew very well. Has area ruled inlets and all that good stuff. The airplane should also fit a saddle type battery or standard configuration pack.

@ Brent, Yep, finally putting that A-4 to use. The Skyray is in the pipeline too...it will come online sometime after the sabre is released.


Chris

I have a question, which will be the next release in arf form?

Next ARF will be the sabre as an F-86H or FJ Fury. We will be showing the first prototype at toledo actually.


Chris

Larry and Cindy will be busy answering alot questions I see!

Too quiet on this thread........

The ABQ SLUF is coming along, in the paintbarn since the weather has warmed up.
Vietnam-1970's camo per the planes at Myrtle Beach AFB, South Carolina '77-'79. This one will wind up as #69-6222 of the 353rd TFS/354TFW, June '78.

Large masking for coverage then cleanup and detail with the airbrush.

Still have to conjure the gear door actuation as well as put together a cockpit.

-Mike

Looks GREAT!!!!

Mine's done but guys i'm stutified when it comes to gear doors...how exactly do they open and close anyone have close up pics of the wires???
I really don't want to weigh it down with pneumatic controlls.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin

@ Mike, Nice looking SLUF! I look forward to seeing her all dressed up.

@ Kevin, I'm attaching pics of the main gear door installation using eleastic cord and hooks that can be obtained from your local fabric store (pic 1). The idea behind this is that the gear doors are spring loaded to close...this is really the best way to do go about it (short of air cylinders...but that's weight and complexity) for the EDF based on the amount of suction created from the fan.

So, first off, on the upper main door you will need to make a runner from .032" wire (this will push the upper door outwards as the main gear retracts forward). I want to say the length I used was about 5.5" or so. You will need to bend the ends (approximately 1/4" - 3/8") flat at the appropriate angle (see pic 2). Secondly, glue 2 hooks onto the interior of each of the lower and upper main doors as shown in pic 3. The distance is pretty arbitrary, but you want them to be as far apart as possible without interfering with anything. Now, glue two hooks to the balsa stiffener inside the fuselage at the same distances as on the upper main doors so that they align (pic 4). Once these are done, if not already done so, glue the main doors in place. Lastly, install the elastic cord. The upper doors are done by looping it around the 4 hooks (2 on door, 2 on fuse, pic4). Loop it through a small brass tube (around 3/16" or so). With the gear retracted, pull on each ends of the elastic cord to get the desired tension then crimp the brass tube to hold things in place. Then, hit it with a bit of thin CA for insurance. The lower main doors are done the same way except the cord is looped around the doors alone so that they are pulling on themselves and not the fuselage (pic 5). Last item of business is to add a small light ply wedge on the bottom of the main door strut to push the lower door out as the gear retracts. Pic 6 shows what the doors are doing as the mains retract (just ignore the rubber bands on this pic...was before going with the elastic cord). One note is that you will need to drill out any air line restrictors in the system as you will need the mains to have a little bit higher pulling force to close. Otherwise, that's about it.

If you have the newer generation airplane with the fairing for the nose retract is then you can use the method described in the instructions for the nose doors. The first generation airplanes with the fully opened nose well will require quite a bit stiffer springs to prevent the doors from being sucked closed at full throttle.


Chris