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Old Jan 23, 2006, 05:43 PM
Beach Pilot
Sparkorama's Avatar
Boston
Joined Jan 2006
419 Posts
Help!
Can anyone point me to a good GWS Tiger Moth 400 Build with pictures?

After much research, and the oceanic death of my brushless slow stick, I'm planning to get a GWS Tiger Moth 400 - the painted version. There's so much info on this plane that it's hard to find a simple build with pictures. Building my slow stick with the annotated build was absolutely vital. Can anyone post a link to a good build with good pictures? Any needed mods?

Also, I'm considering the Spektrum Dsx6 and micro servos that come with it. Any info on why that might or might not work with the Tiger Moth? Seems like there should be no problem.

Lastly, anyone flying these moths brushless?

Sorry for the multiple questions, and thanks in advance.

Spark

p.s. thread is also posted in the "park flyers" area.
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 06:05 PM
I broke my kerpellor.
Artemetra's Avatar
Salt Lake City
Joined Sep 2004
2,430 Posts
Here's a possible solution to the landing gear - which tend to rip out rather easily. Kind of a kluge, but I understand it works...

(I suggest not cross-posting on two different threads, it's kinda frowned upon...)

I don't know of any build threads, but there must be some. The bigger this forum gets, the harder it is to search stuff! But of course, the more stuff there is, the better. (?)
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 06:48 PM
Registered User
Aerobatman's Avatar
Akron, Ohio
Joined Nov 2005
425 Posts
Sparkarama,
I too have a Tiger 400. SUPER plane, fly it on the stock brushed 400. Nice aerobatics and fun to watch it fly. It has tons of lift, mine takes off in 8 ft!
Check out this review at RC Universe by Greg Covey (and the video):
GWS Tiger Moth review
Put a pilot in the cockpit and a scarf on him! It's neat to see it fluttering in the air as you fly by doing some barnstorming!
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 10:13 PM
Survival is Attitude!
Skonkworkstexas's Avatar
Hallsville Texas
Joined Aug 2005
2,235 Posts
order the Tm 400 Slope Glider.
My Second moth is my avatar. Found TONS of suggestions in the GWS section of this forum.
Costs half, and leaves room for a brushless.
Had to modify motor mount for HIMAXX 2812
Would go up one motor size, like 2816 if I was to do it again.
Use 3s 2200 LiPo
Extended nose to make GC. Tailheavy.
Used spare landing gear holder to add foward torsion bars, like Dehavalland original. Little rubber bands on safety wire spring.
Hit so hard, I bounced 5 Feet high. Poped both screws in front only, 2 minutes lost.
Tough S*B.
Plane is wrk to fly but goes 60 on a dive, 50 cruise.
VERY parasitic on drag.
However, like it anyway. Has "character" like the wife sees.
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 10:40 PM
Beach Pilot
Sparkorama's Avatar
Boston
Joined Jan 2006
419 Posts
What battery are you flying? and is that black on the plane tape or paint?

Spark
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Old Jan 25, 2006, 06:25 PM
Registered User
Aerobatman's Avatar
Akron, Ohio
Joined Nov 2005
425 Posts
Spark,
I fly with a 1570mah Apogee 3s. If I manage the throttle I get about 12-14 min. of flight time. I did the water break-in on the motor and she runs strong for being a canned motor. I've flown her in 10mph winds without too much trouble. The black stripes are painted on with Folk Art Acrylic paint from my local craft store. A nice thing about this yellow plane is that you can fly until sunset and still see it!
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Old Jan 25, 2006, 06:30 PM
Registered User
Aerobatman's Avatar
Akron, Ohio
Joined Nov 2005
425 Posts
Forgot to mention the landing gear - don't scrimp on the epoxy here! Load up the cavity where the mount goes with 15 min cure. I also put a thin (1/8") piece of ply on the 'floor' just above where the landing gear block mounts to. Search the threads here for other ideas of reinforcing this area. My technique has served well and the gear is solid.
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Old Jan 29, 2006, 08:49 AM
Survival is Attitude!
Skonkworkstexas's Avatar
Hallsville Texas
Joined Aug 2005
2,235 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerobatman
Forgot to mention the landing gear - don't scrimp on the epoxy here! Load up the cavity where the mount goes with 15 min cure. I also put a thin (1/8") piece of ply on the 'floor' just above where the landing gear block mounts to. Search the threads here for other ideas of reinforcing this area. My technique has served well and the gear is solid.
Did the same thing with 'plyblucore". Amazing stuff. The thicker blue foam I use for carving oiltanks, seat cushions. One string had an instrument panel you can print that is nicer than the original photos. I used 10MM pieces of cut pins, and used the pins with plastic balls on the end for levers. Red for mixture, black for throttle right on the panel. WHO Cares that they werent there on the original. Use auto wire insulation with the copper pulled out for coaming. made "no push & nostep" labels on clear printer paper for decals. Just make plenty for later as that printer stuff is expensive.
Use light colors and it hides the texture. If you like the styro pebble look use black.
Just use enough color to make it look right. I then wet sanded the paint, but figured later it wasn't needed. Shot four coats of clear.
Painting with latex is slow cause the stuff is thin, keeps the weight down when it takes time to apply.
I didn't use the stickmount reciever, made a "vertical shelf, with the triangles like on a shelf has resting on the wall. Lots of epoxy, than bolted the cross mount to it. Heres two tricks. There is not enough room on GWS cowling to house the motor under the cowling. The cowling also mmelts!
Form thin corrigated cardboard to make a "ceiling". Attach inside cowling with 3m 77 adhesive. then cockeye the cowling up slightly up so you have to widen the hole for the prop downward. It allows enough room for the motor, and with the slight "scoop" on top I come back from a hard run with windings that are actually COOL to the touch.
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Old Feb 05, 2006, 03:12 PM
Don't get cocky kid!
tjtansey's Avatar
Glendale, AZ
Joined Jan 2003
532 Posts
That review is great, I wish I had seen it when I was building mine
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