Has anyone out there built this seaplane? It was designed by Ken Willard (Seamaster) and an article was published in AMA in 1980. I have a couple of friends that fly them with glow. I have ordered the plans and will build for electric. They added ailerons as I will.
At the moment I am looking at an AXI 2808/20 with TP 2100 mah 3 cell Lipo using a 8x5 prop.
This will be my first scratch built plane but am looking forward to it. Just finished a Herr Aqua Star (electric) and that flys great (only from snow so far!).
Any thoughts?
Joe

Haven't built one but its an old design that reputedly flys very well....Uncle Willie carries the plans. I'm not sure but have you checked the wasseflug link in The free plans and links Ive set up...Uncle Willie's page is listed.

Is this it...pictures help as old designs become generic types and different versions spring up with different names in different countries.

Yes, this is it. I now have the plans - from AMA since they had another I wanted - and am in the process of cutting out the parts. One the club members has one he built years ago, powered with .19 something, that flys very well. He has answered a number of questions for me.
I have the motor, battery, servos, etc I will need. Purchased some of the Hobby Lobby Polycover for covering.
I am taking my time just because other than rubber powered planes, I haven't scratch built anything in some time - like 50 years!
Thanks for the pictures. Very nice looking planes. Always nice to look over someone elses work and see how they did it.
Attached is a picture of my friend's plane.
Joe

The pics were just web trawled ....but pics help its a nice little model its got character ...if it will fly on a 19 glow then Electrifying shouldn't be a problem power wise ....using Lipo cells means the wing loading will be quite acceptable for its size .

A word on the covering front take a leaf out of Ivan Pettigrew's book and cover it from a inch or so above the water line down in nitrate doped tissue...his have been used in and on the water for the best part of a decade ....go to his site- see my free plans and links page - and read his advice pages on how and why hes been building and flying a lot longer than I've been alive .
Plastic coverings are ok above the water but even a pin hole will allow ingress over time and the Tissues very tough and light..its also easy to repair hull scrapes as well.

Airboatflyingshp,
I noticed in one of the pics you posted there seem be flaps in addition to the ailerons. I was wondering about doing that also. I'm sure it doesn't need flaps but they seem to add just a bit more fun to flying. I have to redo some aspects of the wing build to add the ailerons anyway. Any thoughts?
I did go to Ivan's site and will revisit again. And again! He sure has a nice fleet of planes there!

Thanks,
Joe

Try this guys videos for more of Ivans stuff in action
http://www.dvflighttech.com/
I invested in most of his Flyingboat plans...after much procrastination ....I couldn't pin myself down to just one

Off the top of my head I think you can do it but its easier to play with the straight wing ...the end plates will also boost lift and being a constant chord it should reduce any tendency to tip stall...looking at it Ive got a feeling that ones a scaled up version.
Why not build two wings.. 3 channel trad curved tip and a straightone for 5 channel...or is the pylon built into the wing??? In which case its make your mind up time
In these pics youve got all the permutations of wing trailing edge.

You could build the wing on the plan then cut the structure and then rebuild in the added structure....that sounds messy...... better just get a sheet of drafting film and redraw the wing and new trailling edge set up in pencil incorporating the mods. If you can find the right section trailing edge stock use that.Thats like the first
Aileron's should be enough flaps can cause problems if you get them wrong in flight as its a small model....but two compact micro BB servos should do the job mounted on the under side center of the wing. From my collection of plans...the inner flaps generally work off a paired direct wire linkage as you might for a split elevator.... plastic snakes are the easiest /most often preferred way of controlling the Aileron's.
Problem is fitting it in neatly and not being able to see the plan.

I did finally go with a piece of aileron stock for the trailing edge. Found a size that fit the bill very nicely. I have given up on the flap idea for the moment. I will use flaperons if necessary to shorten takeoff run.

On another subject, what are you guys doing about cooling the ESC? Obviously, the cabin area where I plan to put it is a closed area. I was thinking of oversizing the ESC a bit just in case. It has not been an issue on the Aqua Star - yet! Winter here. No problem on the Aventura Twin either - summer or winter.
Thoughts?
Joe

The motor pod is quite large why not use a cut down a scrap heat - computer CPU- sink as a lid and fix it underneath so the fins ... cut down form a nice short finned lid?
The other option might be to use a water proof/resistant boat controller...non reverse type these sometimes have a heat sink built in

Well, I won't say that is a mad idea. I notice some of the real high powered ESCs do come with sinks. Just making sure the sink has some kind of contact with the transisitors to help disapate the heat is an issue. Heat sink compound would help, I guess. Allowing the heat sink to be exposed to an air flow and still protect the ESC from water..............The answer is out there somewhere.

Joe

I read of a guy putting the esc INSIDE the wing, attached to a metal heatsink and this sink had a short metal rod attached to it that protruded from the wing INTO THE AIRSTREAM ....remember thinking at the time that this was ingenious...I believe the esc was also wrapped in plastic, nestled in the wing, with it's own heat conducting "antennae" ...

Bill

I thought about mounting it somewhere in the pylon with a heatsink exposed to the airflow. Just a piece of alum plate might do. Got some time to figure it out.

I have flown the Aventura II for 12-15 mins in the summer and the Lithium batts get a bit warm but never had any issue with the ESC. It is a rather large fuse so maybe that helps. The Aqua Star never gets more than warm - no where near hot and it is a very small fuse.

Too bad the ESC mfgs don't have a waterproof heat sink as an option. If I get a chance, I will look at Ivan Pettigrew's site to see if he mentions the issue.

Joe

Originally Posted by jpgilbert

I thought about mounting it somewhere in the pylon with a heatsink exposed to the airflow. Just a piece of alum plate might do. Got some time to figure it out.

I have flown the Aventura II for 12-15 mins in the summer and the Lithium batts get a bit warm but never had any issue with the ESC. It is a rather large fuse so maybe that helps. The Aqua Star never gets more than warm - no where near hot and it is a very small fuse.

Too bad the ESC mfgs don't have a waterproof heat sink as an option. If I get a chance, I will look at Ivan Pettigrew's site to see if he mentions the issue.

Joe

Hi Joe the heat sink is waterproof ...its the controller that doesn't like the wet stuff Ivan's models are so cavernous as a rule you have a problem finding somewhere to put them so they don't get lost

Idea 2 if you cannot get hold of a buggy or boat controller which usually are water proof/ resistant and or incorporate heat sinks ...some boat jobs go further and are also water cooled.
Why not make up an alloy cover for the pod U shaped in section to form the top and two sides that should give plenty of area to dissipate heat and look V. nice and shiny if all polished up...........I don't think it will get that hot in use. The other idea is to use a light wt finned portion of heat sink as a waterproof lid inside the pod and have louvers or holes in the outer visible surface of the pod to feed air in and over it then let it out. Just some ideas

I could do a diagram if this isn't immediately obvious

Originally Posted by Airboatflyingshp

Why not make up an alloy cover for the pod U shaped in section to form the top and two sides that should give plenty of area to dissipate heat and look V. nice and shiny if all polished up...........I don't think it will get that hot in use. T

I think this is a great idea. I will start thinking along these lines. It has to be waterproof in case the plane flips. Probably wouldn't hurt to add some of the Corrosion-X I hear about. I still have plenty of time as I'm just building the hull (fuse) now. Wing is just about done except cutting out the ailerons and hinging. Keep the ideas coming.

I got the idea that Ivan's planes were so big there was plenty of room for heat dissapation.

Thanks,
Joe

For the big multies you can measure hull displacement volumes in shoe box units . I will do you a quick diagram ....post it later here. DONE

Heads up Joe its posted