Build Log Oly II Build

[erich]

Got a thumbs up from Larry O, who is doing a real quality build on his Oly II, and documenting it on: "My Oly II Build". So will be adding my build to his. Thanks Larry.

This is a Ray Hayes Oly II kit.

Have never had or flown an Oly II, but it's the first glider I ever saw. Was working in the basement of a ski shop in W. Boylston Ma. While doing some house cleaning, in the corner, on one of the shelves, was this long white and yellow beat up looking thing. Was fascinated by it's ugly beauty. Was even more intrigued when my boss told me it was a RC glider. After much pleading on my part he decided to help me learn to fly a glider. The only kits available where we lived were the GL and Sig Riser, so that's what I learned on. Forgot about the Oly till I saw it on Ray Hayes web site. That blunt barrel shaped nose with the dowels sticking out the side, was unmistakable. This was the same plane my former boss had flown into some pine trees, everything had been ripped off but that pug nosed fuselage survived with just some scratches in the Monokote. So with that and the fact it's a classic, just have to build one.

Will be building plane without spoilers (makes landing MUCH more er...fun). Spar caps are pretty thick, so will be building wing stock (no kevlar no carbon caps). Only major deviation from plan will be to make rudder a non-balanced one. And will be adding TE cut-outs (from Mirage). These TE scallops look so cool, will probably be putting them on all future floaters.

Going start with the fuselage. Work bench has been cleared and side view of fuselage has been taped down and covered with wax paper. Have assembled all the parts for fuselage sides and will be under way soon as I look over plans for awhile. Need to visualize entire build before starting. Although the original instructions are included in kit, they refer to an older version. Ray's added instruction sheet on the fuselage and wing is more relevant than the booklet. Also the plans (mostly the fuselage) are not that accurate in length. So am using plans as a rough guide on alignment, only. The fuselage sides are the right length in themselves. Will use plans just to make sure sides are straight.

erich

[erich]

The forward part of fuselage has 3 layers. A slightly less than 1/8" ply, a 1/64" ply, and a 1/32" balsa piece. Balsa layer goes on outside, and covers the former slots. On areas as large as this it's pretty hard to use Titebond. So used 30 min epoxy with just a hint of silica. Used a metal edge to scrape it on real thin. After gluing up balsa and 1/8" ply layers, added weights and let sit. After cure time, checked edges to make sure they were glued down tight. Used thin CA to seal up a few small gaps. Aligned rear and front fuselage halves with straight edge and glued with Titebond for butt joint. Used 30 min epoxy, again, scraped very thin, to add the 1/64" ply, which has a 1/2" overlap onto rear fuselage half. To make sure side layers were perfectly aligned, used tabs in formers, temporarily slotted into sides (as suggested in instructions).

erich

[n111kx]

Here's my Oly II. Not in it's original form but...did the job well...
Kip

[oracle_9]

Wow, thats a big video camera you attached to the fuse. Nothing like home video without a home video camera, eh?

[n111kx]

When I first posted this pic a few years back many did not believe that it actually flew. The little .15 had to run full throttle for a 100 feet per minute climb. It flew fine and I have the video to prove it
Kip

[erich]

Many fuselages are started by using the formers to mate the two sides together. Perhaps because this fuselage uses no strings in rear half, it's easier to start with the bottom. Especially since bottom is totally flat (nose to tail). Bottom front is ply and rear is balsa, joined them with Titebond, over plan, to make sure of alignment. Used plan to accurately locate front 3 formers (there are 4 total). Added the triangular front stringers. Made absolutely sure the stringers were even with edge of fuselage bottom, using Titebond. Had to do a little sanding on tri stock (stringers) to make them mate evenly with notches in formers and fuselages bottom, edge. Glued in formers with Titebond, making sure they're vertical. Since it's easier to do now, added ply tow-hook doubler. Also added small 1/64" doubler over bottom front/rear butt joint.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by erich

The forward part of fuselage has 3 layers. A slightly less than 1/8" ply, a 1/64" ply, and a 1/32" balsa piece. Balsa layer goes on outside, and covers the former slots. On areas as large as this it's pretty hard to use Titebond. So used 30 min epoxy with just a hint of silica. Used a metal edge to scrape it on real thin.
erich

To go for a little extra strength, I added a layer of 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth between the metric ply and the 1/64th doubler. I think it worked out to 1.5ml of epoxy for both sides done this way. 24 hours later, flipped over and put on the 1/32 balsa sheet with even less epoxy, used a bit with microballons at the end to help glue and gap fill the ply/balsa put end to end. Very light and very strong.
Lots of books and a couple cases of pop to help with the weight...

Regards.
Mike K

[erich]

Mike K

That's how (3/4 oz cloth and resin between 2 - 1/8" balsa side sheets) I did a Mirage fuselage just awhile ago. You're right worked out great.

erich

[erich]

Time to glue sides and bottom together. Since bottom sits BETWEEN the sides, will need to use a slower glue. Used 30 min epoxy, again, very thin. From nose to where the rear balsa bottom starts used the epoxy, from there back to tail wicked in thin CA, waiting till epoxy had cured somewhat. Before CAing sides and bottom, pinned and blocked, sides, dead vertical and made sure they where in contact everywhere, then wicked in the CA. Did all this while bottom was still pinned over plan.

erich

[erich]

Added ply, H. stab, support member. It fit's neatly into two notches, and 2 slots, used Titebond. Also added last former also with titebond. Before gluing in, notched bottom of the two rearmost formers, for antannae tube.

erich

[erich]

Epoxied in the hardwood nose block. It sits very securely between ply sides and bottom. Kit comes with a ply servo tray. After adding sevo tray rails used Titebond to glue in tray. Made sure tray was at proper height for the servos and the control rod holes, in former #2.

erich

[erich]

Hollowed out hardwood nose block, somewhat. A bit more work than scooping out a balsa block. Hatch is made from a lite 3/8" thick balsa piece. Glued in the front 1/64" ply hold down and 2 alignment guides (1/4" sq) first. Added a screw eye for the old, traditional, rubber band hold down thing. Then mounted hatch and went to town with plane and sandpaper. Also rounded fuselage somewhat, will do some more sanding and rounding out just before covering. Starting to look a little less boxy.

erich

[erich]

Added control rods. Used the red plastic ones supplied in kit. Roughened up in areas where they will be glued. Used epoxy and silica, where rods exit fuselage and at formers 3 and 4 (counting from front). When using the plastic rods, use a short threaded rod (1") at front and rear, with plastic clevis at control surface and metal clevis at servo end. Keeps weight down, and still allows inner rod to be slid out, after taking off, clevis, at servo end. Put in servos. Also added tow-hook blind nut.

Will probably move on to tail group next.

erich

[erich]

Built the H. Stab. A somewhat unique feature of this stab is the 1/8" x 1/4" spruce pieces used to back up balsa LE and center section of balsa TE. Should make for a rugged stab. Used Titebond throughout stab. Used V. stab to get spacing of two center pieces, made of 1/4" stock. After H. stab is mounted V. stab slides into this 1/4" wide slot, which makes aligning of V. stab very easy (as long as H. stab is well aligned).

erich

[erich]

Framed up Rudder and V. stab. First finished up H. stab by putting together elevator. This is made up of two pre-shaped pieces, which get held together using a 1/4" hardwood dowel. Used epoxy and silica here. Glued against a straightedge to make sure of alignment, while glue set up. Drilled and sanded some lightening holes in elevator. Used various sized caps to draw outlines of holes, then drilled hole in middle, finally used dremel sanding drum to widen out holes to lines drawn. Made a straight non-balanced rudder. Just glued in a 1/4" wide piece for the top of pre-formed, V. stab. Also added lightening holes in V. stab. Would have preferred a built up V. stab, but the solid one supplied in kit, did make building this a snap. V. stab also uses a 1/4" wide piece of spruce to reinforce TE. This TE then extends down about 1" to align with slot created by the two fuselage side pieces. So, comes time to add V. stab to fuselage, alignment SHOULD be a breeze.

erich