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Old Feb 16, 2006, 05:44 PM
JAM
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Nine Mile Falls, WA
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I'm stuck with sub-zero temps for at least the next five days......so the maiden will have to wait.

TM
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Old Feb 16, 2006, 06:56 PM
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Broomfield, Colorado
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I've not had any luck either. Tonight I was next door talking to the neighbor when I realized it was dead calm. I walked into the house, picked up the plane, and by the time I was back outside the trees were bending double. The forecast doesn't look good here for for the next several days either.
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Old Feb 17, 2006, 07:22 AM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Finally got the outdoor flight video compiled. Winds were not bad, 8-10mph, and a little cold, but got it done!

Click here to watch Hyper-Bipe-Outdoor

Prop-er: Let me know, and I can E-mail vids to you if you can't get them d/l from here. Putfile is sticky about direct links.
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Old Feb 17, 2006, 09:45 PM
JAM
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Gene that looked really good.............also I can't believe you still have geese flying around down there......................the ones that winter around here can't fly.............they got froze into the lake they hang out at last night when the temp hit 22 below...................haha..........I have a body part that I havn't seen since 7 o'clock this morning because it's so freakin' cold..........and genetics ain't got nothing to do with it................................................ ....I'm gonna go build a fire in the garage and sit on it latter........................

TM
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Old Feb 18, 2006, 09:02 AM
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Like TM said, nice video. Oh, and TM, I hope you find your elbow later today . I defininately don't miss the cold since moving back down here.
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Old Feb 18, 2006, 11:40 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Bond
Prop-er: Let me know, and I can E-mail vids to you if you can't get them d/l from here. Putfile is sticky about direct links.
Hi Gene,

I'm still on a dialup connection.... But I've asked a collegue of mine to download the vid. (got the direct link from their HTML source code, piece of cake!)

Can't wait to see it!

BTW, It looks like Gary will produce kits for the 30" and 40" version.
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Old Feb 18, 2006, 04:15 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prop-er
BTW, It looks like Gary will produce kits for the 30" and 40" version.
Great news! You should sell a ton of them! He'll need to get some smaller diameter rods to go with it, but no biggie.

TM: Yea, the darn geese are a menace. If I had been flying one of my wings, I'da mixed it up with them! We aren't allowed to shoot them in the city limits. I think they should open a 'clubbing' season on the buggers.

Cold? Heck, it's about 50 here! I'm in South Carolina Her Majesty says it's about 9 degrees at home...
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 10:04 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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The video is great, Gene! Nice work.

I've finished my work on the 40" plans.

Want a big fat bipe? For a lousy $3,- you will get:

- Scale Hiperbipe plans, designed for 6mm depron, or FFF (fanfold foam).
- Designed to be powered by the cheap BP-21 or BP-12 on 3S Lipo's.
- Three full-size and tiled (3x 25 Letter sized pages) front, back, top, side and perspective views, including tips, tricks, bracing and electronic positions.
- Two pages with all necessary templates, the first one tiled to 15 letter sized pages, the second 25 letter sized pages.

Please anounce your order here, or send me an e-mail or PM. I will contact you with further details about payment (through Paypal).

Plans will be send to you by e-mail. Zipped file size is 4,5 Mb.

The 30" plans for 3mm depron are not updated yet. Let me know if you are interested. Price will be the same.

This offer will be valid for two weeks from now.
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 12:46 PM
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Ok it is time to break the silence and clear the air. I really wanted to build the Hyper-Bipe but it looks like we will be moving to Texas. BEFORE, August 1st.

I have to sell a house and find or build a house while still going to school full time. So obviously, all building and probably flying has been suspended until after the move.

I want to thank Prop-er for considering me for the build. It looks like a great plane.

OM
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Man
Ok it is time to break the silence and clear the air. I really wanted to build the Hyper-Bipe but it looks like we will be moving to Texas. BEFORE, August 1st.

I have to sell a house and find or build a house while still going to school full time. So obviously, all building and probably flying has been suspended until after the move.

I want to thank Prop-er for considering me for the build. It looks like a great plane.

OM
What part of Texas are you moving to?
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 02:33 PM
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I maidened the Hyper-bipe this morning in the cold fog out in front of the house. The wind was calm and I couldn't wait any more. It flew great. As soon as I can get a video operator I'll post some video. If I built it again I would probably cut the rudder further forward for more rudder area. I also am getting some buzzing from the flying wires and need to put a dab of hot glue on them. I also think a larger prop might be better although this one moves it around o.k. I'll go through my box of props and see what else I have.

When I cut the power it just wants to float. For flying around, I have a little bit of up elevator trim. So, on final, when I cut power it pitches up slightly and just wants to float. If I knew better what I was doing, I would adjust the thrust angle a bit. I think it might need a little less down thrust. On the other hand, it rolls nicely, loops inside and outside well, tumbles great, and instantly goes back to stable flight (in any attitude) when I let go of the sticks. Inverted was easy with very little down pressure needed. If I hadn't put in some up trim for level flight it probably wouldn't need any down in inverted. I'll fly it some more before I decide to change thrust angles. It may just be a matter of getting used to it and backing out some of the trim. I'm no knife edge expert, but I was able to keep it in a knife edge circle until I got bored. However, it seemed like I could have used more rudder to horse it around at slow speed.
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 05:51 PM
Master of the figure 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
What part of Texas are you moving to?
The south west side of Austin Texas. Either Buda or Dripping Springs.
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 07:01 PM
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I'm waiting on the galleries to come back on line to post some video.
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Man
The south west side of Austin Texas. Either Buda or Dripping Springs.
Good luck on your move. My wife and I left Texas in 1984 to go to Purdue. I promised her we would come back after graduation. We did, 18 years later. We moved to the Fort Worth area in 2002. We still have many friends in Indiana.
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 08:03 PM
Master of the figure 9
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I can't wait to see the videos! Your build looks great! Did you set yours up with flaperons? It sounds like it is slow enought that they are not needed.

I wish I had time for the build. I have already started packing the shop getting the house ready to show. At this point we need all of the luck we can get. It has been pretty crazy around here I can't wait until this move is over! We are flying down in a couple of weeks to look for a new home.
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Old Feb 20, 2006, 08:05 PM
Crash Master
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Good luck on the move. Hope the home here sells easily... Seems new homeas are selling better than existing on my side of town, but hopefully good on your's.

Sounds about right, Cary. I think the airfoil of the body contributs a good bit of lift in the equation, and might affect the attitude more with the extra prop blast than while gliding. I didn't really pay that much attention to the change with throttle, but now that you mentioned it... seems like it might have been the same on the little one. Not significant enough for me to bother with, though.

There's no substitute for excess power, though Being able to horse it around on the prop means you can be a little more careless, which is good for me!
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 03:00 PM
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Here's the video.http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...70#post5075808
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 05:38 PM
Master of the figure 9
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Great video Cary. I was wondering about all of those trees. I guess they came in handy!! Man I really want to build this plane but, Old Lady would kill me. It looks like it flies a lot slower than expected.

It looks over cast. What were the wind conditions? What kind of flight times are you getting? Etc, etc, etc?

OM
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 05:57 PM
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Overcast and foggy. Wind <5mph, 10-12 minutes IIRC. I have an 11x47 sf prop on in the videos.
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 10:02 PM
Crash Master
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Indianapolis, IN
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Looks good, Cary. That big'un may have a lower stall speed than the little one. Mine seems to want to go faster than what your's seemed to be. Could just be an illusion based on the size of the area, too, though.
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Old Feb 21, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Thanks. I was flying close to stall much of the time and it stalled several times. A little more speed and it would have looked more graceful.
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Old Feb 22, 2006, 09:29 PM
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Great viedo Cary I will start mine tomorrow. The plans look great! A real value for the price. 3 sheets of great drawings both full size and tiled.
Great job Vincent!
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 10:54 AM
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I keep trying different props. The latest is an APC 12x3.8. Looks better, sounds better, possibly flies better, not real sure. Static WOT 13-14A so a bit of a stretch for this motor. Actual flying is 90% at 1/2 throttle and it comes down barely warm. During one agressive flight of around 4 minutes the motor got warm, i.e. felt noticeably warm but I could hold my finger on it w/o any pain. I took off again and flew it at 1/2 throttle for 2-3 minutes and landed and it cooled off to barely warm. I think this is the right prop for my setup. I got three flights for a total of 9 minutes before the battery got too weak and forced me to bring it down. I'll check the mAh in during charging to see what the avg amp draw was.

The landing gear has taken some pretty heavy abuse and is holding up like a champ. I even smashed one of the heavy duty wheels I'm using and didn't hurt the gear. Lashing to the wing spar was definitely the way to go.
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 05:39 PM
Crash Master
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Indianapolis, IN
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APC 12x3.8 is an awful slow prop. Did you try an 1170HD or 1280HD? 1280HD may impress you for similar power input as the 1238APC... 1170HD may work well for lower amps as well.

I couldn't find what props you've tried, sorry if I'm beating a dead horse (Texas term? )
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 06:12 PM
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On this motor on 3s I've tried 9050, 9070, 1047, 1050?, 1147, 1238. On this plane the last four. Since 1147 was in the 12A range IIRC I was afraid to go up in diameter and pitch. Figured if I increased diameter to get more air past the cowl I should lower the pitch. I guess I should have tried the 1170 and 1280 since I believe I have them in my box of props. I just assumed they would pull too many amps.

Hobby Lobby says this motor is good for 10A. Right now I'm pushing it to ~13A but it's not getting hot. Regardless of seller ratings, I assume I'm not pushing the motor to hard as long as it stays cool. Yes? No?
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Bond
I couldn't find what props you've tried, sorry if I'm beating a dead horse (Texas term? )
I can use all the help you're willing to give. If motor knowledge was clothes, I'd be buck naked. That's a Texas saying .
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Old Feb 23, 2006, 06:45 PM
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Cool is Cool (Hoosier term?)

The HD/DD GWS props typically pull lower amps, more similar to a 1" smaller diameter. The downside is that thrust is a little lower, more like 1/2" smaller... The upside is the higher pitch gives more speed, once on step. It is really interesting to go from say a 1147RS or APC, to a 1170HD... Small thrust loss, but it's got a longer acceleration...

Probably confusing...

OK, when you go from a climb, or a turn, to full throttle, for a fast, flat run... with a low pitch, slo-fly prop, it's like boom, you're at speed
(albeit, slow). With the HD props, it's like it takes a second or two to wind-out... make more sense? Once on-step, you can, of course throttle back...

You'll see what I mean, when you find the right prop.
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 01:24 PM
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I tried the HD 1280. It drew slightly more amps and flew well. Now my ESC is cutting out every few seconds in the air, but not on the ground.

Aargh!! I thought I had this behind me once I got the Corsair sorted out. Now the Hyperbipe is suddenly doing it. I've made no changes other than the prop and I am flying at 1/2 throttle so around 6A based on static testing. Even at static WOT the voltage is not dropping below 10.5V or so and I can't get it to cutout in static testing.

It must be interference, but why is a proven setup now suddenly glitchy?
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 02:35 PM
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Too weird. I put the 1238 prop back on and a fresh battery and everything is fine again. All I can figure is that in flight the 1280 prop was pulling more than it was static and somehow I was overdrawing the battery. Hard to believe since it was holding voltage fine at static WOT. Oh well, it's raining now. Sometime I'll try the 1280 or 1170 again. The 1280 did have noticeably more zip, not huge, but noticeable. However, I think I was already pushing the amp draw. Maybe the 1170 will be just right.
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 02:37 PM
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BTW, an apc 1238 does a great job of chewing up a Slow Jazz (carbon fiber and mylar floater). I had one hanging from the ceiling while I was static testing props on the Hyperbipe and got a little too close . Chewed half the elevator to shreds .
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 02:43 PM
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The more I fly this plane the more I like it. As my 3y/o says, this is my plane that looks like a "real" plane . It is very cool cruising around the neighborhood with a 40" full fuse plane that only weighs 18oz. It has a very axial roll.
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 07:27 PM
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Cary: It's possible the 1280 is loading up more once on step. It is possibly stalled static. Try the 1170 as well. Sounds like mine, in that it does like power and speed, but doesn't mind slowing down.
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 08:19 PM
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Gene: It's probably stalled static. I remember reading in here somewhere that anything over a 6" pitch is stalled static.
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 11:14 PM
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Guys, please give me a sanity check here. Am I right in thinking that as long as my power system setup and flying style are not making the battery, motor, or ESC hot then I am o.k. even though I am way outside the sellers specs on these motors. E.g. the sk400xt is rated up to 10A, 8-10" props 3s-2s. I'm propping for 13-14 peak static WOT on 11-12" props 3s but I'm not pushing it a lot in flight, I only hit WOT for a few seconds every once in awhile, and the system is not hot when I land. Sound o.k.?
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Old Feb 24, 2006, 11:35 PM
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It sounds fine, Cary. As long as everything is cool

Brad
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Old Feb 25, 2006, 07:43 AM
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Yup, cool is cool!

Kinda like the speed limit... I consider it to be the suggested speed you drop to at the top of the mountain

Seriously, though. Some vendors are super conservative, and some are wildly absurd with their ratings. I'm glad they give us a starting point, but after that, you get to see what they really can do.

Heck, I got 110,000 miles out of my 60,000 mile Michelin LTX's guess what I replaced them with? Wasn't the 40,000 mile Goodyears that only lasted 30,000 miles!
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Old Feb 25, 2006, 07:51 AM
JAM
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I just wish I could get a simple break in the weather up here so I can fly mine........just got back from another sub-zero jumpstart.........but at least the sun is shinning..........

TM
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Old Feb 25, 2006, 12:57 PM
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England the Shires
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Hi guys

Would like to build a small one of these for indoors , sedate flying rudder/elevator/throttle.

Can you tell me why the plans show no difference in incedence between either of the wings nor the wing/tailplane I thought some was needed ?

Paul
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Old Feb 25, 2006, 10:04 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
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It's symetrical. Most slow-flyers are not. Most Aerobatic and 3D planes are. If you changed things around, went with underchambered wings, and maybe a little more wing chord, I think it would be possible to slow-fly it... but a lot of the lift is from the body.
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 05:43 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
The more I fly this plane the more I like it. It has a very axial roll.
I like that a lot. Did you change the position of your batteries, since I advised to mount them as high as you can?

Quote:
It is very cool cruising around the neighborhood with a 40" full fuse plane that only weighs 18oz
No wonder, it's 90% air inside...Fill the fuse with helium ,and you won't even need the wings...

I haven't found time to finish the 30" plans. Maybe this week.
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 07:15 AM
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I mounted the batteries on the firewall right behind the motor. When I balanced the plane on its side, the balance point was about 1/2" IIRC below the midpoint between the two wings. I decided that was close enough, at least for now. When I build another one, I may try for a higher mounting point.
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 08:03 AM
Crash Master
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Mine was mounted on the roof of the nose, 1/2" back of the firewall. Balance was real close to even.
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 09:40 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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Sounds about ok. I'm tempted to build one myself too this summer...
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 10:25 AM
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This is going to be my "learn how to fly better" plane. It looks so good in the air that it inspired me to pick up a couple of books on aerobatics this weekend that I want to work my way through fiddling with plane setup and improving my flying.

I just looked at the battery mount and I think it would be pretty easy to add a strap to the roof to get the CG higher, of course it will move it back a little also so I'll have to experiment a bit.

What I've read so far leads me to think I have been setting up with too much throw, especially on ailerons. My goal on the last few planes has been to maximize aileron throw to get them to roll like a drill. Now I'm learning that pattern/aerobatic planes have recommended throws much less that are oriented more toward smooth and precise slow rolls, point rolls, etc. We'll see. I forgot to post earlier, but before the maiden, I redid the links between the top and bottom ailerons like Gene's and they move much nicer now.

I'm going to play with this one until I destroy it. If I haven't moved on to something else by then, I will build the next one from Depron or C-foam or something else with a harder, smoother surface. The peeled FFF is a little soft for my liking and doesn't take paint as well as I would like. I'll also reduce the counterbalance on the elevator by about half to make the elevator tips less fragile and increase the rudder area by moving the hinge line forward; probably somewhere between 1/2 to 1 inch.

Just like every other plane I've built, I'm learning a lot from this one.

BTW, I was listening this weekend to a test pilot friend of mine explain to a group of boys how a plane gets lift from it's airfoil shape. Like most such explanations I've heard from aeroengineers it implied that all the lift comes from the airfoil. It fails to explain symmetrical airfoils and flat plates. I just smiled thinking about how well my flat plate wings fly. Sometimes I think Bernoulli is overrated . Of course, a few percent improvement in lift or efficiency means a lot more in the military/commercial world where range is paramount.
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prop-er
Sounds about ok. I'm tempted to build one myself too this summer...
Surely Gary is going to send you a few kits to test the fit and finish
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
BTW, I was listening this weekend to a test pilot friend of mine explain to a group of boys how a plane gets lift from it's airfoil shape. Like most such explanations I've heard from aeroengineers it implied that all the lift comes from the airfoil. It fails to explain symmetrical airfoils and flat plates. I just smiled thinking about how well my flat plate wings fly. Sometimes I think Bernoulli is overrated . .
Uh oh....... the last time I saw a thread in here about Bernoulli vs. Newton, it became the 'puter version of fisticuffs.... Better to leave this one alone, Cary. (I'm fairly sure the thread was closed by the moderators)

Brad
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Old Feb 27, 2006, 06:34 PM
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Thanks Brad. Clamming up!
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Old Mar 06, 2006, 09:31 AM
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I was wondering if the 30" version plans are available yet?
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 01:47 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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The 30" Hiperbipe plans are finished. Available for just 3 bucks. PM me if you're interested.
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 06:57 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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Gene Bond's pics and video of the 3mm depron 30" version:



http://media.putfile.com/Hyper-Bipe-Indoor-Maiden
http://media.putfile.com/Hyper-Bipe-Outdoor
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 12:03 PM
Crash Master
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Indianapolis, IN
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Anyone know what happened to Lucien and his build of the (original) 30"/3mm version??? I feel orphaned
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 08:27 PM
Flt 76..N.bound..feet dry
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Baltic CT, USA
Joined Dec 2000
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Has anyone built the 40 inch version?

For some odd reason I thought Gene Bond had built the 40 inch version. So has anyone built the 40 inch version? I've just printed out & pieced together the templates for the 40 inch & it's huge! Not that that's a problem "Bigger flys better" but bigger electric components mean a bigger investment.
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 10:10 PM
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Broomfield, Colorado
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Allen: I built a 40" and posted pix and video earlier in this thread. Not sure who else built the big one. Mine flys well. I did post a few suggested changes that I will do on the next one I build: larger rudder, less (or no) counter balance on the elevator because the tabs are fragile, key the vertical stab into the former where they meet. There may be more, I would have to go back through the posts. Another thing I'm thinking about is adding a battery tray keyed to the firewall and the sides of the fuse to move the battery up for better balance and also to allow easier adjustment of fore/aft cg.

Gene/Arx: I tried the 1170 and I think the 1060 also. All of the higher pitch props I've tried with a diameter > 9" have run fine static but caused the ESC to cut out in flight. It sure looks like you were right about the amp draw going up in flight for the high pitch props. I could go with a larger ESC but there is no reason to push this motor that hard. The 1238 prop flies it fine.
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 10:30 PM
KE your cub.
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FWIW, the original Sorrel SNS 7 Hiperbipe, never had counterbalances on the elevator.

I found that mine was pretty "tippy" it didn't need much expo as it was very pitch sensitive.
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Old Mar 11, 2006, 03:52 AM
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@Cary: Monday I will send you the new updated 40" plan for free.

@Curare: you are right about this. My plan shows the counterbalancing elevator as an option.

@Gene: I saw Lucien being busy in other beta build threads. Maybe he will once find some time to build one. (He does have a very nice GWS brushless motor to power the 30" Hiperbipe...)
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 07:34 AM
It Wasn't Me!!!!
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Motor question

OK guys I am slowly getting my Hyper-Bipe together, but I have a question about the power plant. I see that the specs. call for the BP-21, and I have 1 of those motors that I purchased from Bulsa Products 10 months ago.
My question is, is this the same motor that we are talking about, and if so how are you getting away with using the larger props, when it is suggested to use the 8040?
The only trouble i am having with the airframe is with fitting the nose section together properly. Other that that everything is keying together quite nicely.
Thanks C-YA RL
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 08:18 AM
Crash Master
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Indianapolis, IN
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The nose is definately fidgety to get squooshed in just right. It took me the longest time. I don't see a clearly simpler alternative, other than cutting it short and using a carved/sanded block.

The BP-21 can handle a lot, depending on style and battery. Here's my test results:
Prop, V, A, RPM, Oz, MPH
8x4, 7, 7, 7740, 10, 29
8x4, 8, 8.5, 8650, 12.6, 33
8x4, 9, 9.8, 9260, 14.5, 35
9x5, 7, 10, 6400, 12.9, 30

The 8040 is a good 3s choice.

I can see why some use a 1047 or 9070 on 2s, but I limited my tests to 10a due to my power supply. I would estimate these props at 12-13a. Pretty easy for the right pack, and probably still fine for the motor.
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 09:20 AM
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Broomfield, Colorado
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RL: Which version are you building? 30"/3mm or 40"/6mm?

I built the larger version from FFF. To get the nose to fit, I gently curved the tabs on the front of the fuse and the front cowl piece before putting the cowl piece in place. It then fit together fairly easily. I held it with Scotch tape while I glued it. After the glue dried I went back with a hobby knife and trimmed off any high corners and then lightly sanded the joints. As you can see in post #123 it faired in pretty well. You can see the joints, but that is true all over the plane. I made it worse with my paint choice since the blue and yellow contrast so much. I little light weight filler would have done wonders for the nose joints.

WRT props. I'm using a small motor on mine and ended up with a MUCH larger prop than recommended by the motor supplier. I worked up to it and carefully watched the static amps and the temperature of all of the components on landing. I went to a very low pitch so I could get plenty of diameter to clear the wide fuse. I thought I was crazy until the guys on here confirmed that as long as it's running cool it should be o.k.

Interestingly, I found that a large diameter low pitch prop worked out well but some smaller diameter and higher pitch props didn't. With the high pitch props, everthing ran fine static but my ESC kept shutting down in flight. The explanation from Gene and Brad is that the high pitch props are stalled static but not in flight and in the unstalled condition they pull more amps than the rest of my system could supply. Consistently, with the higher pitch props, the motor was warmer on landing than with the low pitch prop even though statically the amp draw was about the same.

I'm also beginning to realize that the recommendations given by the sellers are just a starting point. Some under rate the motors by a fair amount. Others push them as far as they can to see what happens. I would probably under rate them a bit too if I was a seller to try to limit returns from people frying them. A great example of this is the 450TH sold by JustGoFly adn the 450TH sold by Balsapr. They are branded differently but I believe they are the same motor made by EssKay? Balsapr rates it at 16.5A; Vinnie at JustGoFly has tested it extensively and rates it at 29A and 300W! He shows test data up to 350W or so. Vinnie has taken the motors to failure and posts data for a large variety of props direct drive and geared and a wide range of voltages. He has gone to great effort to find the edges of the motor's envelope and then give his recommendation for the upper limits. He is taking more risk but providing tons of useful test information and real world flying results. No knock on Balsapr, they are also one of my favorite vendors and give great service, selection, and prices. Just a different approach.
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 09:43 AM
It Wasn't Me!!!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
RL: Which version are you building? 30"/3mm or 40"/6mm?
GAry,
I am assembling the 40" version using pealed blue core. I have already filled and sanded some of the keying tabs with lightweight spackling purchased from Home Depot, and it looks good. I may have to apply some on the nose to get it to look right after installing the top of the fuse. I already have the rudder installed, but I saw your suggestions about making it larger. How much deeper are you planning on cutting into the vert stab to increase the rudder size?
What motor are you using again? I have a good stock of rewound CDR's (24)and if they are similar to what you are using I may try one.
Thanks C-YA RL
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
I built the larger version from FFF. To get the nose to fit, I gently curved the tabs on the front of the fuse and the front cowl piece before putting the cowl piece in place. It then fit together fairly easily. I held it with Scotch tape while I glued it. After the glue dried I went back with a hobby knife and trimmed off any high corners and then lightly sanded the joints. As you can see in post #123 it faired in pretty well. You can see the joints, but that is true all over the plane. I made it worse with my paint choice since the blue and yellow contrast so much. I little light weight filler would have done wonders for the nose joints.
This is the one thing that bugs me about this version - the nose. It just don't look right all squared off like that. It'd be nice if someone good at CAD (not me) could develop the cowl and have it so that it could be wrapped instead of square as it is now.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves

I'm also beginning to realize that the recommendations given by the sellers are just a starting point. Some under rate the motors by a fair amount. Others push them as far as they can to see what happens. I would probably under rate them a bit too if I was a seller to try to limit returns from people frying them. A great example of this is the 450TH sold by JustGoFly adn the 450TH sold by Balsapr. They are branded differently but I believe they are the same motor made by EssKay? Balsapr rates it at 16.5A; Vinnie at JustGoFly has tested it extensively and rates it at 29A and 300W! He shows test data up to 350W or so. Vinnie has taken the motors to failure and posts data for a large variety of props direct drive and geared and a wide range of voltages.
Vinnie who, and where can you find this info???

TIA,

Brad
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 10:10 AM
On patrol.
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Broomfield, Colorado
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RL: I'm no expert, by a long shot, but I thought maybe another 1/2" on the rudder. Frankly it flys fine and I can hold it in knife edge with the stock rudder. There have just been a couple of times that I thought some more rudder would be good. Hard to quantify. The better pilots on here might have a different opinion. You could always build it stock and if you want more rudder later it would be easy enough to replace the rudder.

I'm using this motor: http://www.hobby-lobby.com/brushless-skatty.htm HL seems to vary the price on this motor every week or so. I have seen the price go from $19.90 to $24.90 to $19.90 to $24.90 over the past several weeks. I bought 4 at $19.90 to use on my 10-12oz profile planes. It worked so well on those that I thought I would try it on the ~18oz Hiperbipe.

Brad: Vinnie Finn, owner of JustGoFly. Here's the JustGoFly website. A good selection of motors and their accessories and lots of useful information.
http://www.justgofly.com/

Here is the particular motor I was referring to. I bought if for use on a wing. Scroll down for direct drive and geared tables. http://www.justgofly.com/tech_450TH.htm. I bought it with both the standard (high speed) bell and the lower speed bell (see the 450T page) to try swapping out for various props. I got mine in pusher configuration. You can also get them in a tractor (behind the firewall) setup with the shaft coming out the other way.

Here is what I think is the same motor at Balsapr in the tractor configuration:
http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V184356&pid=V525213

This other motor looks like it would be good on the larger Hiperbipe dd 10x4.7. However, for $19 I'm pretty happy with the tiny little 400xt. http://www.justgofly.com/tech_450XT.htm
http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V184356&pid=V810315
Notice JGF rates it at 18A/180Watts while BP rates it at 13A.
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 11:53 AM
It Wasn't Me!!!!
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Joined Feb 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
RL: I'm no expert, by a long shot, but I thought maybe another 1/2" on the rudder.
I'm using this motor: http://www.hobby-lobby.com/brushless-skatty.htm HL seems to vary the price on this motor every week or so.
Thanks Gary,
I may just try the rudder stock as you suggest, and then change it later as I see the need.
I have one of those Esskay 400xt and if you say it works good, I may just try it in the Hyper-Bipe. I bought it for $19.99 or some rediculously low price after Thanksgiving. Now I know where to install it.
Thanks again C-YA RL
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Old Mar 15, 2006, 12:17 PM
On patrol.
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Broomfield, Colorado
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RL: The 400xt should work for you. Especially if you have kept the plane light. Mine is around 18oz ready to fly. I started with a 1047 GWS prop and it flew well with static draw of 12A. This is over the 10A rating that Hobby-Lobby lists but I only use full throttle occaisionally if I want a long vertical up line and then only for a few seconds. Most of the flying is at 1/2 throttle and it always came down cool. I also tried an 1147 which worked and eventually the APC 1238. The 1238 at 13-14A static is drawing pretty high amps for this motor. But again I don't fly WOT and it comes down barely warm in a typical flight. The 1047 is safest depending on how you fly. Be sure to check the amps in your setup and check the motor/esc/battery temperatures on the first few flights to be sure.

FYI, I have an 1147 on in the video.

Cary
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 01:25 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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Netherlands, Moordrecht
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arx_n_sparx
This is the one thing that bugs me about this version - the nose. It just don't look right all squared off like that. It'd be nice if someone good at CAD (not me) could develop the cowl and have it so that it could be wrapped instead of square as it is now.....
Brad,

I will see what I can do. Shouldn't be that hard.

Vincent
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 08:50 AM
RETIRED PHILLY FIREFIGHTER
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Philadelphia, PA USA
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Paypal sent

Hi Vincent, I have sent you a PAypal payment. Cannot wait to get this on the table. Thanks, Jon
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 03:29 PM
Launchpad McQuack
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What do we call this...the round nose conversion?





Not perfect scale. Good enough?
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 03:41 PM
Use the Force!
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San Marcos, CA
Joined Jan 2005
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Gene,

I am still here! I had a few other projects in the works, and a bunch of stuff around the house I had to end to over the past few weeks. As a result, I have not even been able to start on the HyperBipe yet.

I have all the foam and Carbon Fiber pieces at home, as well as the plans, but I can't start it until I finish a couple other things. It looks like a great plane, and I will get to it some time in the future, but right now I am swamped with other things.

Lucien
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 03:51 PM
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Niagara Falls/Toronto area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prop-er
What do we call this...the round nose conversion?

Not perfect scale. Good enough?
Tres Bon, Monsieur! It looks much better that way, I think.

Now I'm gonna have to count the change in the ole piggy bank and see if I can afford one of these....

Brad
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 05:01 PM
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I agree with Brad. Looks good. Will it still be all foam with just a little more forming involved?
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 05:03 PM
It Wasn't Me!!!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prop-er
What do we call this...the round nose conversion?

[Not perfect scale. Good enough?
Prop-er,
I think it looks better and I like it. I haven't installed the nose on my 40" version yet. If you revise the palns, please advise me so I can update my plans.
Thanks C-YA RL
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 07:17 PM
San Diego, CA
Joined Oct 2001
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48" HiperBipe

With the talk of larger airframes, I thought I'd jump in here with a little project I did last year. Small counter balances were used on both the rudder and elevator surfaces, the main reason was to remove the load and allow the use of smaller servos.
Because of the larger size I decided to introduce a CNC light ply wood structure to support the wing, motor and gear structure. I was able to keep the weight to about 39oz's and could probably pull out another 6oz's on the next build without much work.

Enjoy
Mike
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Old Mar 16, 2006, 10:50 PM
On patrol.
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Broomfield, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
RL: The 400xt should work for you. Especially if you have kept the plane light. Mine is around 18oz ready to fly. I started with a 1047 GWS prop and it flew well with static draw of 12A. . . . Most of the flying is at 1/2 throttle and it always came down cool. I also tried an 1147 which worked and eventually the APC 1238. . . .Be sure to check the amps in your setup and check the motor/esc/battery temperatures on the first few flights to be sure.
I got a few minutes this evening that the winds were calm enough to fly. The plane seemed to be straining a bit, maybe too many repairs , anyway when I landed the motor was pretty warm. If I held my finger on it for 5 seconds it got uncomfortable for what that's worth. The battery and ESC were just a little warm. Nice scientific measurements, I know. Anyway, I kept the throttle just a click or two above 1/2 due to the wind and that must have been enough to make the difference. Can't otherwise explain it.

I switched to the 1047 and it flew fine. The motor got barely warm. This compares to before when it was cool. All I can figure is that I was running a little higher throttle for the wind. Anyway, with the variability I'm getting be sure to keep close watch on your setup if you plan to push it beyond the ratings like I have been.
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 01:14 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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Netherlands, Moordrecht
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geigerr
Prop-er,
I think it looks better and I like it. I haven't installed the nose on my 40" version yet. If you revise the palns, please advise me so I can update my plans.
Thanks C-YA RL
It's quite easy to make a 3D surface model of a round nose. Getting it done in 6mm foam is another story. It's quite some work to change the plans. Should be ready this weekend. I think it's even possible to make the changes to an existing Hiperbipe.

@Mike: That's awesome !!! Has she been published in "show your model" yet?

@Jon: I have send your plan.
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Old Mar 17, 2006, 12:08 PM
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Proper: I guess we weren't thinking quite the same way. If you did the cowl as a seperate part, it would be easier. See the (very) quick sketch I drew.

If you wrap the part C1 in tape the way I've shown, it will easily wrap around the 2 formers without having to crease it. I'd use tape and maybe a bit of foam safe CA to tack it in place, and then hit it with PU (Gorilla Glue) to glue it up. After the glue is dry, you can remove the tape, sand, and paint. This is easy to do. If you don't believe me, try taping up a scrap piece of foam and then curling it up - you'll be surprised! I've done this and then wrapped 3mm foam around a pencil......

Brad
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Old Mar 18, 2006, 02:08 PM
Launchpad McQuack
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Brad,

We were thinking the same way.

Thing is, if I try to reproduce the original Hiperbipe cowl, I end up with double curved surfaces. They are next to impossible to unfold in 3D. Only way around is making up the cowl from a lot of different pieces.

Making it in 6mm foam is quite tricky.

The obvious solution is to make the cowl a whole lot more simpler. I will do this, and see with how many pieces we can create a good looking round nose.
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Old Mar 21, 2006, 02:50 PM
Launchpad McQuack
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Thanks for the patience you've all shown.





Those who have already build the Hiperbipe can download the conversion:

A4 format round nose conversion plans

Letter format round nose conversion plans

I will change the 40" plans soon.
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Old Mar 22, 2006, 09:17 AM
Crash Master
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Indianapolis, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prop-er
I will change the 40" plans soon.
Ummm... The Letter-size file says they are for the 40"ws version...
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Old Mar 23, 2006, 01:59 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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They are. What I meant was I will change the 40" plans to include the round nose as standard.

If you like to have a round nose for the 30" version, let me know.
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Old Apr 02, 2007, 02:39 PM
Launchpad McQuack
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From now on, the Hiperbipe plans can be downloaded from my website www.rcplans.nl

Most of my recent plans are available as a free download.
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Old May 15, 2007, 10:57 AM
Registered User
Ipoh, Perak Malaysia
Joined Jul 2006
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Hi the bipe looks good. However, your website says "Unable to connect to database server".

Are the plans still available at your website? Or can you please email me the plans and/or guide at jpltcsb@yahoo.com. Thanks

chewy
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Old May 16, 2007, 01:06 AM
Launchpad McQuack
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Hi Chewy,

There must have been some maintenance at my host's server. The site is working just fine.

Prop-er
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