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Old Jan 19, 2006, 10:01 AM
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feathermerchant
And you do not want to make all independently ?
If you will make plug with a good surface it already is a lot of work.
I can share with you images of my process of formation of a cowl.
These days beginning molding.
Oh, forgive my bad English.
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 12:01 PM
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Your English is a lot better than my Russian I'm sure.
What do you mean 'And you do not want to make all independently' ?
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 01:27 PM
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Way to early to give up on the Balsa! It really looks great so far and doesn't sound heavy at all for such a large cowl on a large plane. I'm watching carefully as I am about to try a balsa cowl for my little cessna 152 project. -Steve
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 02:08 PM
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Why vacuforming?
Make mold. Glass work way.

May be I have misunderstood your words...

Mine pic. It is a double number two. The first has turned out plug&mold monolith
Bad wax.

That is why I am tired with it.
There are still some defects of a surface, under a film of water of them it is not so visible (in picture, still wet from water). I think wax will hide it.
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 03:56 PM
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FM, that cowl that you were given fits width wise? Why not cut the chin out of it and extend it downward with a couple of hours worth of FG work? Even if it took a bunch of bondo to smooth it out you could have a decent plug when you're done.

Sorry, just my 2 cents.
EB
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 05:47 PM
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making a foam plug is realy very easy , especialy the 2nd time,
for scale make a plywood plate the exact shape of the rear of the cowel, you will probably want it slightly oversize to slip over the frount of the fuselage make a ply center form the shape of the cowel from a side view, cut the foam to exact length and center the ring for the spinner on the frount(it can be slightly long to allow attachment to the fusealage,use solid foam blocks to fill in and just tack glue the foam to the formers blue or white foam as used to hot wire wings works well
use a sharp stanly sureform file to make your rough shape following the formersas a guide finale sand with 80 to 200 grit paper. remove the formers and replace with a slice of foam of the same thickness

if you cut to deep just patch in a piece of foam and re-shape

you can build a light and exact scale cowel very quickley,don't be afraid

if you are going to make an air scoop/inlet on the bottom shape the cowel first and use a block of foam shaped and glued on at the end

sorry if I might have skipped a couple of steps but I hope you get the idea

Dennis
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the ideas guys.
Viktor - You want to make a cowl for me? Just joking. Yours sure looks great in the picture. Does it fit well?

Dennis C - I may be on to foam soon. We'll see how the balsa works out.

Cowls are usually curved on all sides but if I end up with some flat areas I could remove the balsa there as the whole thing will get covered. The 'air scoop' will be around the spinner (I hope).
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 06:16 PM
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FM your right that was one of the steps I missed, the formers are just guides to get the profile. The artistry is in the sand paper ,as one of the guys said "removeing every thing that does not look like a cowel"

the air scoop I am refering to is the square one on the bottom of the cowel. also you will not be able to do any sharply concave surfaces

Dennis
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 06:26 PM
Real Men Fly Pink Planes...
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4 pages already in this thread FM, I would say you have people attention...
How soon to maiden the smaller one?

Kirby
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 09:55 PM
Brycycles@7000ft.
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Will fly no plane before its time--Go Feather, GO, GO. Go Feather Go, Go...
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 11:28 PM
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Finished rough sand of the cowl tonight. It's pretty unconventional shaped but it grows on you. I really love my balsa plane from Windsor Propeller. It has come in soooo handy. Removes wood much faster than sandpaper and more precisely than a knife. The more wood you can remove with the plane the less sanding. Spent ~30 min planing and 20-30 min sanding.
The air intake is a 1/8" gap around the 3" spinner. Tha area is:
(pi X 1.5625 X1.5625) - (pi X 1.5 X1.5) = 0.6sq in. That's not much but I still have some coutouring to do and the spinner actually sits 1/8" in front of the hole so the opening is a lot bigger. Remember the motor is mounted radially so it is in the airstream right behind the spinner. I also have my eye on a 2-7/8" ULTIMATE (listening Bill?) spinner that is way more pointy. I could add a scoop if it is really necessary but I like the 'turbo' cowl. Cowl weight is 6.5 now but those flat areas can be holed out since I'm covering it anyway. Maybe I can finish it up tomorrow.
Kirby - I'm building both Edges together. Helps a lot to see how everything is supposed to fit together. I'm shooting for a double maiden before SEFF.
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Old Jan 19, 2006, 11:42 PM
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Wow JB, Cool! I would like to commision a custom made cowl from you.

Kirby
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 12:03 AM
gwh
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Kirby,

He's barely on the second page if you set your options to 100 posts per page.

The pictures really don't do this plane justice. It is much more impressive in person.
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 12:25 AM
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FM, what a great job! Can't wait to see the finished model.

Neil
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 02:38 AM
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FM
Very good beginning. Go forward!
But this not Edge cowl. Not scale. You should add balsa.

Quote:
Yours sure looks great in the picture. Does it fit well?
It not ready cowl. It only a plug at this time.
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 04:43 AM
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great, i like this thread.
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 08:44 AM
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Great job on the cowl, FM ! That's an interesting way to get air across the motor (1/8" gap around the spinner). I'm anxious to hear if that is enough to keep it cool.
Keep up the good work.
Ed
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 11:21 AM
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Nice job FM, you are indeed a "BALSA MASTER". Keep up the good work, I have this one in the subscribed thread area.:P

Tim
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 01:14 PM
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I really like the looks of the cowl feather.
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 05:57 PM
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Feather, your building is superb, however please add to the cowl. I was trying to get in touchwith my mold guy to do a one off out of acrylic to use as a plug. Does anyone have a 3d rendering of the cowl from CAD to supply my guy. Maybe even get a vacform done for you. I'll let you know if he can do it as a "favor".

Killer
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 08:26 PM
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Canopy poll

Killer - Cool!
I'd certainly entertain that idea.

On to the Canopy!
I have bought a Wlid Hare 25% Edge but it is a double. Soooo I can just slide it forward and bolt it down or risk ($25) and cut it shorter and see if it fits.
What do Y'all think? Do you think it will fit?
If I cut, it I'll cut it at or a little behind the orange line you see there and slide it back a little so it overlaps the turtledeck like the plans.
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 08:49 PM
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FM, I think you should cut it just behind the orange line. Based on the pictures that would be the best look IMO.

Tim
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 09:44 PM
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Cut it!
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 10:17 PM
gwh
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Leave it alone. The cut version looks like it belongs on a racing cockpit. The long version looks more like an aerobatic aircraft.
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 10:49 PM
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I vote for cutting it. It looks like it'll fit the contour of the turtle deck fine. All that platic forward of the cockpit loos strange... (unless you open out the fuse to make room for two seats maybe?

And scale or no scale, I love the look of that cowl. It does make it look like they swapped the usual Lycoming HO-540 in the Edge with a PT-6 (Maybe you should add some faux elephant ear exhuasts to complete the transition?)

Also love that perfect 1/8th inch cooling ring. I'll have to try this built up balsa cowl technique sometime... it looks like a blast Nothin' better than standing knee deep in balsa shavings IMHO.

Tom
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 11:33 PM
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End of poll!

OK the votes are in and while you were voting, I compromised and cut between the lines. It's my $
I think it looks great.
It was not fitting well because the front 'lip' was puckering up in front and it was just too wide. Not following the curve of the turtle deck..
So I broke out the heat gun and with trembling hands and non-printable words at the ready, I threw a little heat on it, then a little more and finally began to hear the plastic creep against the wood so I backed off. The lip was taped down. After another session, it almost drops in place. Where the tape was pulling down on one side, the plastic deformed so I cut it short enough to cut that part out.
Anyway I think it is a success. Next to fit the tailfeathers and Killer we need to talk about color schemes. Any ideas?

Oh and the 2-7/8" Ultimate spinner is on the way.
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Old Jan 21, 2006, 12:08 AM
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Plenty. How about Betty Boop! Black and white high contrast with yellow trim.
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Old Jan 21, 2006, 01:16 PM
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I was thinking of Holstein cow with pink and white on the botom.
Should I do both planes the same?
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Old Jan 21, 2006, 01:36 PM
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Yes, both planes should be the same!
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Old Jan 21, 2006, 02:30 PM
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Big Heffer and calf. Very funny. Do a Got Milk theme. What are you going to use on the udders...I mean rudders?
Do a Palamino or Apoloosa (sp?) scheme there Tex.
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Old Jan 21, 2006, 09:41 PM
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Any drawings like what you did for the siamese CAP?

Hey guys, I need a favor. I'm far enough along to run a trial CG with all major components assembled. I have not built the wings yet. Can someone check where the cg comes out without wings?
Set it up ready to fly with battery, etc. Check where the CG is then remove the wings and find the cg again. This will help me decide where to mount the servos and therefore if I should plan pull-pulls or pushrods. Thanks ahead of time.
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Old Jan 22, 2006, 12:11 AM
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Sure thing feather, I have the templates at work. So I will start it next week.

Killer
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Old Jan 22, 2006, 09:37 AM
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error
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Old Jan 22, 2006, 12:31 PM
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FM,

You could get G. Hanssmann to whip you up a set of Edge canopy and cowel. Did you see his on the Edge thread?

Typ
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Old Jan 22, 2006, 01:29 PM
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Yup I was just thinking about that. Would be cool.
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 07:19 AM
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But G. Hanssmann makes not increased version.
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 10:31 AM
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Looks like GH use the existing cowl and wraps with cf. Or at the least uses it as a plug
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 10:54 AM
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Very possible. He has no email or PM though so I posted him a question in the 10% Edge thread.
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Old Jan 23, 2006, 02:50 PM
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Halo feathermerchant

I regard your building the Edge 540-1.5 very interisting.
I look everyday in this thread.

For making a carbon cowling for the Edge 1.5 we need a negative form of the cole.
We have no and therefor I cannot built a carbon cowl for the Edge 1.5.

>>Here<< is a guidance for making a carbon pices.

I think your balsa cowl is good for your Edge 1.5
I wish you much succsess for yor Edge 1.5 projekt.
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Old Jan 24, 2006, 11:10 AM
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Assembly pics

Finally have enough done to assemble the parts and see if it looks like an airplane. The 1.5 is 4lb even as you see it. Forgot the hatch. So since I've allowed 1lb for each wing that comes to ~6lb plus battery (est 20oz). So best guess is 7.25lb so far. I still have to lighten the cowl.
SA Edge 1.0 is 11.4oz (no hatch, canopy, cowl, prop, spinner or servos)
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Old Jan 24, 2006, 11:19 AM
TKG
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Yep, it needs Elephant ears and a small inlet
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Old Jan 24, 2006, 12:15 PM
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Looking really good, FM ! If you can get her in at 7.5-8.0 lbs for a 75" Edge .....it will be just TERRIFIC .
Ed
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Old Jan 24, 2006, 12:37 PM
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Very cool FM!

Kirby
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Old Jan 24, 2006, 02:16 PM
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Wow, quick work. Looking real saweet!
Killer
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Old Jan 25, 2006, 04:21 PM
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That thing dwarfs the Edge! Wow, I'd love to see that thing in person, great work, looking forward to the video.

Sleedo
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Old Jan 25, 2006, 04:45 PM
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Lookin' good... All that sheeting looks great!

One question... going back a bit, but I never got a chance to ask. How did you cut out all the slots and tabs? Especially in the plywood. Did you use a router of some sort? Jigsaw?

I also think that some PT-6 style exhaust stacks would look good on that aircraft... a-la T-6 perhaps.

Tom
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Old Jan 25, 2006, 07:44 PM
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tommy321- See post 111. I have only cut tabs on the mount (mostly) because the tabs add so much strength and are such a pain to do. There is a pic of the jigsaw and plane. The first tabs I cut were not very accurate. I got pretty good by the time I got to the last one. Anyway that is what Gorilla Glue is for.
I made a mod on the mount. I added a balsa shear piece seen in the first pic below. Really stifffens it up. Added one to the 1.0 as well.
The new spinner is here! Boy does it look great. The folks at Tru-turn cut the propellor slots to match my 16X8 to 16X12 prop selection and you can see the prop fist perfectly.
I could not resist holing out some of that 1/2" balsa on the cowling. I carefully chose areas that were completely flat so the holes should disappear with covering. I did not make one in the top though. Too chicken. It's down to about 5.6oz or so now. I could thin it but it's just not worh the effort.
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Old Jan 26, 2006, 04:02 PM
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Did you ever post the firewall dimensions, FM? I'm not sure if it's too late to suggest cowl info, but we got our first Seagull Edge 60 today, and the cowl has a firewall opening 7" high at center and 7.25" wide and weighs 5.0 oz. They cost $12.
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Old Jan 26, 2006, 06:23 PM
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Donated cowl pics and firewall dimensions

A while back it was asked if I could use the donated cowl with some cutting and pasting. I looked at it and it is just not close enough for me. Here are some comparison pics. My balsa cowl puts the motor/prop in the correct location on the 150% scale drawing. I did not alter Bill's design, just enlarged it.
blucor basher -Thanks for the interest in another alternative cowl. Firewall dimensions are 7-15/16" high by 7-3/8" wide.
Firewall to front of cowl is 9-11/16" The cowl could be longer if it overlapped the front of the plane as in the 100% Edge.
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 12:28 AM
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Other than the length it looks pretty close. If you made a wood ring to extend the the fuse forward of the firewall and then attached the cowl to that. How about this use the glass one as a plug and extend the sides and top/bottom to work for you......Impact
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 09:00 AM
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I vote - enough fooling with the cowl. Don't drive yourself nuts.Use the balsa one and get the thing flying. You can always make a new cowl later.
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Yes, I agree. You can always return to the cowl after it's flying....Impact
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 01:10 PM
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Mex - You read my mind. Change your name to Kreskin.
I had the choice of starting to cover the fuse and tailfeathers or starting a 100% wing. I chose to start the wing . I love to build. I'm only building one wing so I can familiarize myself with the construction and make mental notes about where I'll deviate from the 100%. I'll also have the other wing's parts to copy and scale up if necessary. I am to the sheeting and I'd say the wings should be a lot easier than the fuse. Many fewer parts to make and they're all straight.
I have asked Bill to cut the 1.5 ribs for me and he has agreed (what a great guy) so y'all be sure to let him know how much you appreciate him. I expect to get the ribs in a few weeks or so. Things at SA are still real busy.
I think I'll stop the wing where I am and start covering. I have 2 planes to do so that alone ought to keep me busy for a while.

BTW my CG of the fuse assembly above with servos was near the forward edge of the wing tube. I think it should be real close to the middle of the wing tube by the time I cover it and install control horns and linkages. Plus my CG was before I cut the lightening holes in the cowl.
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 04:19 PM
Brycycles@7000ft.
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Feather,

I had some difficulty with getting the wing tube to fit after I built the wing. If I had to do it again, I would dry fit the wing with tube assembly before I tack glue just to make sure everything was lined up correctly. The wing holds itself together well enough without glue. Also, don't forget the blind nuts as I did. I found this mistake after I covered.
I think your cowl is great as well.
Bryce
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Old Jan 27, 2006, 06:03 PM
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Wow Bryce - You're Kreskin II or too
I used the carbon tube to make sure the rib holes lined up and the ply pieces were in the right spot. I've messed up stuff like this too many times in the past. Line up is always my biggest challenge. The trick with those ply parts is to put the right amount of glue to tack them but not too much! I only glued the tube once. I did put the blind nut in too. Thanks for the help. Remember I just did one wing so there are still plenty of mistakes I could make. FYI I ran each ply part up and down the tube a few times and also ran the tube thru the ribs before assembly to loosen things up. How are y'all making sure the tube does not 'migrate' all the way into one wing panel? Seems like it needs stops or something.
Bryce - I've ordered the red/white from Stevens to do the Redline thing on the small one since you sent me the graphics and all. Think they'd want a larger one too? I'd need larger graphics.
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Old Jan 28, 2006, 02:30 PM
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Feather,

I've been following this build with interest. These old eyes like the larger models, and this one looks like it is going to be outstanding! Keep the pic's and words coming!!

AmpAce
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 07:39 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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USA, TX, Euless
Joined Aug 2003
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Let the covering (cowering?) begin!

Got fuse and tailfeathers covered. White is Stevens Aerofilm. Pink is Sig AeroKote. I used the Sig because I ordered the wrong pink (he even told me it was flourescent) from Stevens. Should have ordered 'heather'. Covered the top first and the bottom last so I could keep all pink on the bottom. When's the last time you saw the bottom of a cow? Aerokote says adhesive activates at 200, shrink begins at 210 and max shrinkage is at 250. Well I can say that the shrink part is about right but according to my iron, it sticks well at ~275. At 200-220 it barely does anything. Even stuck down at 275 it doesn't take much wood with it when you peel it off. I don't think I'll be buying any more. But I will use this up. I'm too cheap not to.
I used CA hinges on the rudder. Should have used pinned. It only moves about 35-37deg according to Zack's gauge. And it is pretty stiff compared to the elevator. So I went whole hog on the ele and used GP pinned hinges. Gorilla'ed them in and you see the results. 45deg each way easy.
Made control horns from 1/16 ply and sank them fully into each surface. Rudder has a 1/16 ply plate on side opposite the control horn. Elevator halves are built per plan with 1/16 on each side. Joiner is a piece of 5/32 same as gear wire. I'm surprised I bent it the right size the first time. I found some discarded arf pushrod tubes for the joiner to slip into. No metal to metal. Still 4lb for fusalage complete except esc and bec. Same as before due to lightening cowl.
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 07:44 PM
Brycycles@7000ft.
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Keep going Feather! Looks outstanding!
Bryce
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 08:17 PM
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Pink?
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 08:22 PM
Live to fly!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mexico
Pink?
As in "Pink Floyd" maybe?
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 08:45 PM
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Didn't you guys see FM's reference to the bottom of a cow?
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 09:17 PM
Live to fly!
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United States, NJ, Fair Lawn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Morse
Didn't you guys see FM's reference to the bottom of a cow?
Yeah, I did. Just kidding around. Can't wait to see the whole thing completed. Amazing effort - again!

FM, any chance this will turn into a "siamese-Edge"?
Doc
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 09:56 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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Gosh I hope not
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Old Feb 02, 2006, 10:53 PM
Plane dodger
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De Udder Edge.
Killer
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Old Feb 03, 2006, 12:00 AM
Bob S
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Austin Tx
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Looks good!

Is there any gap on the rudder? Looks there isn't any and that would will cause binding and can lead to a failure of the hinges.
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Old Feb 03, 2006, 08:53 AM
Use the 4S Luke
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There is a gap on the rUDDER and it is sealed. Pinned hinges take longer to install but move much more freely. At 30deg deflection or so CA hinges winout but at 45deg, it's probably better to use pinned hinges especially on larger planes.
I've started the black 'cowing' pattern. Will post pics tonight.
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Old Feb 03, 2006, 03:45 PM
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Ha! A cow that weighs half of what other planes its size does. How Ironic

I bet Doc-E and his affinity for animal themes is is kickin' himself for not thinking of this... Why fly a dragon when you can fly a cow!

Tom
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Old Feb 03, 2006, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy321
Ha! A cow that weighs half of what other planes its size does. How Ironic

I bet Doc-E and his affinity for animal themes is is kickin' himself for not thinking of this... Why fly a dragon when you can fly a cow!

Tom
No, but I was thinking of a flying pig...
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Old Feb 03, 2006, 04:28 PM
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Got Pork?
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Old Feb 04, 2006, 01:02 PM
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Feather
What is the wing aeria of this beauty?

Dennis
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Old Feb 04, 2006, 06:17 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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USA, TX, Euless
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1.5X the Stevens Edge - 990sqin.
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 11:26 AM
Use the 4S Luke
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Actually the current wing area is 0 because I haven't started the wings yet. Most of the 'cowing' is done and the elevator and rudder servos are in. I've learned a lot about the wrong way to apply Aerofilm light (SoLite) over Aerofilm. First make sure both are as clean as possible. It's hard to remove 'boulders' under SoLite. For 'cowing' I start by cutting out a piece of SoLite. Try to think like an amoeba. At least that's the shape you want. You'll be spraying water on both pieces of covering before application because water is wasier to squeegee than air. It also allows you to slide the covering around some to position it and pull out most of the wrinkles. So mix a litttle liquid dish soap with the water so it does not bead up. You'd like to have all water and no air between the layers of covering. With backing off the SoLite and water applied liberally, set the SoLite in place. Lift the edges to pull out any large wrinkles. Use your fingers to smooth out smaller wrinkles. A paper towel will help to blot up the water that squishes out around the edges. With most wrinkles out, continue to smooth working from the center outwards. You don't want to leave any water under the covering. Once you've gone as far as you can with fingers make a tool by rounding the edge of a piece of scrap balsa. I sanded a piece of 1/8" sheet. It is about 2" X 6" and I rounded a 2" side. Use this as a squeegee starting from the center again and always pulling all the way to an edge. Work on the bumpy/wavy/wrinkled places first. You're shooting for a totally smooth result with no lumps or bubbles. Use light pressure at first so you don't drag wrinkles into the covering. There is still a lot of water under there. You'll notice the balsa getting wet and dragging smears over the covering. That's OK, you'll wash the whole thing later. Continue to blot excess water. Open areas - those with no structure behind the covering, are harder to squeegee. They never seem to look as good as those where the covering is supported. When light pressure no longer produces much water, increase the pressure gradually and the SoLite will get smoother and smoother. When no more water comes out you are ready for the iron.
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 12:11 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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I use a temperature controlled iron set at ~175degf to start. Use it like the balsa squeegee - from the center outward. If all the water is out, nothing will happen except the Aerofilm underneath may sag a little. If there is water, a texture will appear. If you see the texture, use the balsa squeegee to remove a little more water. Once it is all gone, squeegee with the iron (especially on small wrinkles) until the covering is stuck down. You might want to turn the iron up to 200deg to seal the edges but be careful as the extra heat seems to encorage bubbles.
Small bubbles left seem to get smaller with time. I've had some success pricking them but they tend to deflate unevenly leaving a bagel shaped spot. Water will collect in any channel formed under the covering by balsa or covering seems. With careful smoothing, the SoLite takes on the exact shape of whatever is beneath it. It will not hide any imperfections but with a little heat it will even follow compound curves. You can cover across hinge lines, remove the water then cut along the hingeline carefully (new razorblade) and seal the edges of the covering. The covering must be dry to seal the edge. I have let covering sit overnight when I could not dry the hingeline.
I'll post pics of my tool and some good and not so good results tonight.
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 01:56 PM
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Swanton, Ohio
Joined Feb 2005
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FM,

Good stuff, I am at the part in my covering of the SA Edge where this will help. Do you feel the soapy water/iron method is better for eliminating bubbles and wrinkles then just ironing cover over cover(in my case Solarfilm over Solarfilm)? I also find a credit card(usually my wife's) works great for a squeege.:P

Tim
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 02:17 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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For Solite over Aerofilm, I'm sure the water works better. It depends tho how much overlap. 1/8" can be done dry. But I'm putting entire pieces over the white.
I do not have any extra credit cards but plenty of extra balsa.
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 02:30 PM
Test your skills....fly IMAC!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant
For Solite over Aerofilm, I'm sure the water works better. It depends tho how much overlap. 1/8" can be done dry. But I'm putting entire pieces over the white.
I do not have any extra credit cards but plenty of extra balsa.
FM, I will be overlaying some white Solarfilm over a red Solarfilm covered wing. The white pieces will cover quite abit of area on the upper wing surface.

Tim
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 02:41 PM
Test your skills....fly IMAC!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant
For Solite over Aerofilm, I'm sure the water works better. It depends tho how much overlap. 1/8" can be done dry. But I'm putting entire pieces over the white.
I do not have any extra credit cards but plenty of extra balsa.

Fm,

What about the use of trim solvent?

Tim
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 03:16 PM
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Hey Sun...as general rule its better to apply dark colors over light colors. Placing white on red may result in the looking pink.
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 03:26 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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Yup Sun what he said. Try laying the white on the red first before you cover anything.
Only way I can think of to get that to work is to join the covering before putting it on the wing so you can use 1/8" overlap and cover that with some trim.
I know nothing about trim solvent. I'd think it would be a horrible mistake though. Melted backing everywhere and all.
Test it out on something sacrificial.
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 04:05 PM
Test your skills....fly IMAC!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPHOYE
Hey Sun...as general rule its better to apply dark colors over light colors. Placing white on red may result in the looking pink.
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 04:07 PM
Test your skills....fly IMAC!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant
Yup Sun what he said. Try laying the white on the red first before you cover anything.
Only way I can think of to get that to work is to join the covering before putting it on the wing so you can use 1/8" overlap and cover that with some trim.
I know nothing about trim solvent. I'd think it would be a horrible mistake though. Melted backing everywhere and all.
Test it out on something sacrificial.
Just tested some white Solarfilm over red Solarfilm, and much to my relief there was no bleed through of the red(not pink either). It is a good thing I have no concept of light to dark and dark to light. It will look great, thanks for bringing this up though guys, will mark that one down for the next cover job.

Tim
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Old Feb 06, 2006, 11:57 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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More cowing

Here are some more progress pics. I hope it's not obvious from the pics but I kept the amoebas mostly away from compound curves. Anyone who has seen one under a microscope knows they like flat places. I was also able to cover the lightening holes and some other unspecified imperfections. Where the covering crosses the cowl/fuse seam, it is flat also.
Think I need one of those Chick Fila cows for a pilot....

I only have to 'cow' the stab/ele then clean everything up and install the canopy. Then I can install the gear, motor and ESC, cowl, prop, etc. I'll have to start back on the 1.0 to catch it up.
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Old Feb 07, 2006, 07:55 AM
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FM,

At 175 degrees setting on the covering iron, would you consider this a "tack" type temp. or a "sealing" type temp. I know you had mentioned that with additional heat it had a tendancy to produce more bubbles. Just curious as I have a Tower Hobbies covering iron that I have been using 1.25 on the dial as a tack temp. and 1.75 as a sealing temp. No temp. gauge to acutally take iron readings.

Tim
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Old Feb 07, 2006, 08:06 AM
Use the 4S Luke
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At 175 on my iron it will seal and slowly shrink SoLite. But in this application, it won't even tack until all the water is gone. If you set it much hotter, the water will start to vaporize and create steam bubbles. Very ugly. As it is, the heated water expands under the covering and you can see right where it is. Then you can still squeegee it out because the covering is not glued down yet.
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Old Feb 07, 2006, 08:30 AM
Test your skills....fly IMAC!!
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FM,

Will definately be using this technique in a couple of days. Thanks

BTW - excellent use of paper towels. Who says you need to buy a fancy foam stand anyway.

Tim
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Old Feb 07, 2006, 09:07 AM
Use the 4S Luke
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Those are all paper towel rolls. Bought a pack or 6 at WalMart and just haven't started on those 2 yet. I did make a stand for the GeeBee. I think the foam cost like $3-4.
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Old Feb 07, 2006, 11:02 AM
Test your skills....fly IMAC!!
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message edited.

Tim
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Old Feb 07, 2006, 12:35 PM
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I think that plane needs copy on the side that says "Eat More Chicken"
That looks really cow el FM

Killer
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Old Feb 07, 2006, 01:06 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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I emailed Chick Fila last night Kreskin.
Anyway I think the "Eat More Chikin" would look better in black on the underside of the wings.
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Old Feb 08, 2006, 12:20 AM
Use the 4S Luke
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Cowing done!
On to the canopy.
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Old Feb 08, 2006, 07:16 AM
...missing the PE Slope Rebels
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looks like a gateway box
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Old Feb 08, 2006, 08:39 AM
Glow Free Since Aug, 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feathermerchant
Cowing done!
On to the canopy.
I think what you meant to say was,

"MOOOooooo-ving right along."

Looks great! Love the covering scheme.

Tom
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Old Feb 08, 2006, 08:44 AM
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This Edge is a nice >Milka<
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Old Feb 08, 2006, 10:33 PM
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Nice one G.
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Old Feb 08, 2006, 10:52 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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"MOOOooooo-ving right along."

Motor and electronics connected, tested. Canopy installed. Just need to make and cover wheel pants and install receiver.

Oh yeah and wings.
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Old Feb 08, 2006, 11:21 PM
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You are going to have to watch those blenders, cause you may end up with a milkshake.
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Old Feb 09, 2006, 08:46 AM
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BaDump,Chhhh!
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Old Feb 13, 2006, 11:08 AM
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And if you crash, will this be 'udder' destruction?
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Old Feb 13, 2006, 01:59 PM
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no problem...you just moooove on to greener pastures!

Ok...maybe this is getting out of hand.
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Old Feb 18, 2006, 12:22 PM
Use the 4S Luke
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Cow Pants

Got the pants finished. Easy to build but hard to cover. Used white on the sides, then pink on bottom and black on top. They will accomodate 3.5" wheels if necessary. I'm using 3" now. I have some report spines to cover the wire legs.
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