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Old Jan 08, 2006, 05:08 PM
Just noticed I can change this
Okisub's Avatar
Toowoomba QLD, Australia
Joined Nov 2005
99 Posts
To me the NR3D looks exactly like an OEM Walkera #22, there are a few versions with different tails etc but its one of them. Check it out HERE.

Not saying its a bad thing but its funny how perceptions of a heli can change when a name with a bad reputation is replaced with another. Venom do seem to be able to type in ENGLISH which is a real advantage when it comes to support.
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Old Jan 08, 2006, 05:36 PM
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Redding, Ca
Joined Nov 2005
5,040 Posts
Dude the head is totally different and it actually flys
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Old Jan 08, 2006, 05:54 PM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
4,290 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randori
Well, it's officially the end of the holidays. The tree and decorations came down this weekend, and unfortunately, my NR3D is still collecting dust waiting for a new flybar seesaw. LHS guy says it should be in this week.
So I was surfin', lookin' for ways to mod the bird to pass the time while waiting, and got onto body kits.
Any plans for your NR3D regarding body kits? Which ones will fit?
I'm not sure which one will fit but maybe an MD500 can work. It will be a little while before we make body kits but dont count it out. Just measure the critical points and see what body would most likely fit. We just got these too so I have not had time to mess/mod with mine yet.

Chris
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Old Jan 08, 2006, 10:53 PM
Hopelessly hooked
South Carolina USA
Joined Jul 2005
781 Posts
I actually put my walkera 22a next to the NR3D at the LHS. I can tell you first hand that they are not the same. NR3D parts are much stronger, tighter, better plastic, CNC head block, better motor.....

Best part is that the NR3D head parts will fit my crappy little 22a. It will be flying real soon...I'd say in about a week maybe?
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Old Jan 08, 2006, 11:20 PM
Team Compass/KBDD Team Pilot
Ah Clem's Avatar
Joined Mar 2005
3,308 Posts
Ok,

10 or 11 flights now. The gyro is turned all the way down. Still on the stock motor and the power is excessive.

I cannot emphasize how quick this thing is. I hovered the Blade CP and it feels lethargic in comparison.

I still have not had the nerve to flip the 3D switch and try a roll. I have just been zipping around, piroutteing, etc.

Got is up and further away-Radio is still very solid!

More to follow...
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 08:45 AM
Hopelessly hooked
South Carolina USA
Joined Jul 2005
781 Posts
Look for fuselages made for the MS hornet series. There are quite a few available.
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 09:35 AM
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College Station Texas, Home of the Fightin Texas Aggies
Joined Dec 2005
193 Posts
Ok, I wrecked my NR3D on the first shot. I busted a few parts and have managed to repair them till replacements come in. My question is I think I have too much negative collective because in normal mode I have to run the throttle up to about 3/4 just to barely get off the ground. Is this normal? When in normal mode and the throttle all the way down, should the blades be level with the ground and the swash plate level too? Because my blades are giving negative collective at rest in normal mode. Thanks for the help.
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 11:32 AM
Team Compass/KBDD Team Pilot
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Joined Mar 2005
3,308 Posts
Rooney,

I was wondering if you had recieved yours yet.

It seems to me that mine is also lifting off at over 1/2 stick.

Adjust the PZT knob towards the "+" to increase the pitch at low stick. This will calm things down a little (it will bring the RPM down). The PLT knob will adjust the overall Collective Pitch travel. Hopefully you will not have to adjust this one (I adjusted mine so that the motor does not bog at full throttle).

If the knobs have no effect on pitch, flip DIP switch #8 on the back of the transmitter to "Unlock". My knobs did nothing until I did this. Once you get things where you want them, you can flip the switch back to "Lock". Bear in mind, that once you unlock DIP #8, any factory settings with regard to collective will be lost.

The collective, like everything else on this machine is very sensitive. As I get used to the VNR3D, I think I will soon be able to take a nap while flying the Blade CP (just kidding).

C of G (Venomous) from Venom provided information on another forum with regard to what the knobs actually do, which was extremely helpful.

I unplugged the main motor from the 4-in-1 and played with the pitch knobs to see what their effect was (while restraining the machine so that I would not become a victim of the tail rotor.
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Last edited by Ah Clem; Jan 09, 2006 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 12:50 PM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooney7783
Ok, I wrecked my NR3D on the first shot. I busted a few parts and have managed to repair them till replacements come in. My question is I think I have too much negative collective because in normal mode I have to run the throttle up to about 3/4 just to barely get off the ground. Is this normal? When in normal mode and the throttle all the way down, should the blades be level with the ground and the swash plate level too? Because my blades are giving negative collective at rest in normal mode. Thanks for the help.

We are providing an update to this issue.

The blades should be at 0deg. pitch in Normal Mode when the throttle stick is at 0-50% range. Then from 50% and up the pitch has to move into the positive range.
1. unplug the motor wires to the main motor and tail ( mark these plugs so you dont mix them up )
2. turn on the radio and plug in a battery to the heli while sitting flat on a table or level surface.
3 in Normal Mode, move the TH stick to the 50% position, maybe move it through the hole range first then back to 50% and stop.
4. observe the blade pitch.
5. adjust the long link from the swashplate so that the blades are set to 0-.5deg. positive pitch. Make them even. KEEP THE FLYBAR LEVEL TO THE GROUND AND SQUARE TO THE MAIN SHAFT AT ALL TIMES WHEN CHECKING AND ADJUSTING.
6.turn the heli off (unplug the batt.) and reconnect the motor plugs
7.WHEN TURNING THE MODEL ON MAKE SURE THE MODEL IS SITTING ON LEVEL GROUND SO THE GYRO INITIATES PROPERLY.
8. plug in a fully charged battery (radio turned on first) and test hover the model. Reset the tracking if need be but if the above adjustment was done correctly the tracking should be spot on.

TIP: 1. use a micro heli pitch guage, drafting square with reference lines to 0deg. or some form of indicator to set the blades. Otherwise trial and error works too.
2.Ajust the head block to the top of the machined flat on the main shaft and tighten the set screw there. Do not tighten the set screw above the flat on the round shaft. So to be clear the set screw presses against the flat on the shaft but it can slide up or down within the flat on the shaft. Make sure its at the top of the flat and tighten it. Use Loctite!!!!

To check the pitch in 3D mode follow the same steps as above except switch the radio to FLIGHT MODE 1 on the toggle switch. Follow the steps and adjust for 0deg. pitch at 50% TH stick and try to get the pos/neg pitch to be equal. It should work out to be about 10deg +/- pitch. Use the pitch range nob on the top left as well.
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 01:05 PM
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College Station Texas, Home of the Fightin Texas Aggies
Joined Dec 2005
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Thanks for the help.

Ah Clem: I wondered why my knobs weren't doing anything.
C of G: I'll try all that when I get home from work this evening.

I'll be sure to post back any results I get.
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 01:22 PM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
4,290 Posts
TO SLOW THE RESPONSE OF THE MODEL

Take a look at the servo horns.

There are two more holes in from the stock postion the swashplate link can be moved to.

1. remove the pin from the clevis, its brass
2. slide the clevis over one hole towards the center of the servo and insert the pin
3. repeat this for all the servos
4. check your pitch again and tracking if you changed the pitch. You may have to lengthen the links half a turn or so (all 3 equally)
5. test hover and see if you like it.

TIP:
1. if your a novice heli pilot please use training gear to give you a larger base to land on. This will keep you from tipping over easily.
2. hover the model at least 6in. off the ground for better control. The air is slightly less turbulent and makes it easier. You will have to build up the nerve to do it but its better the higher you go.
3. train yourself to shut the power off before the model hits something. The sooner you do this the less the damage will be compared to crashing under power.
4. look for damaged, cracked parts and loose screws and bolts all of the time before and after each flight. You can and will lose (read crash) the model if you dont keep up the maintenance an intricate machine like these helicopters require. JUST BECAUSE ITS AN ARF DOSNT MEAN IT WILL FLY FOREVER UNCHECKED! Even the first flight out of the box! PREFLIGHT CHECK! PREFLIGHT CHECK! PREFLIGHT CHECK!


Happy Landings

Chris
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 02:30 PM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
4,290 Posts
LOCK AND UNLOCKED DIP SWITCH #8

The locking feature is very simple;

1. To have full control over the pitch range of the VNR3D the #8 DIP stitch on the back of the radio must be in the unlocked position.
2. While "UNLOCKED" the pitch range and mixing nobs are active and will change the pitch characteristics while in use.
3. To save the settings you want just slide the #8 DIP switch back to "LOCK" position.

TIP:
If you are not comfortable with the VNR3D yet, land before you adjust the pitch range to avoid any accidents. You do not have to be flying to make any adjustments to the pitch settings.

WARNING! DO NOT SWITCH ANY OF THE OTHER DIP SWITCHES!! doing so will change the ccpm mixing, servo reversing, etc.

Sorry about the confusion on this, we are updating the instructions and our customer service department can also help anyone out if there are still any questions.

Chris
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 02:36 PM
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College Station Texas, Home of the Fightin Texas Aggies
Joined Dec 2005
193 Posts
At one point while my friend was trying to figure out the pitch issue, he switched the number 7 dip switch and tried the knobs. We switched it back to the lock position but did this happen to mess anything up?
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 02:41 PM
Team Compass/KBDD Team Pilot
Ah Clem's Avatar
Joined Mar 2005
3,308 Posts
C of G,

Thank you for the continued flow of information regarding set-up.

It really helps.
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Old Jan 09, 2006, 09:50 PM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
4,290 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooney7783
At one point while my friend was trying to figure out the pitch issue, he switched the number 7 dip switch and tried the knobs. We switched it back to the lock position but did this happen to mess anything up?
At a glance no, I dont think it did. Its hard to say. When you unlock the radio and flip another DIP switch, move things around, and lock the radio again your going to have to test it somehow on the bench to see if you can find a problem. Then you have to fly it to find the problem if its not obvious on the bench. Otherwise ... no problem! Just dont do it agian!

Chris
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