HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Apr 14, 2006, 03:25 AM
Registered User
delamar's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2006
347 Posts
t5s you could have atleast answered a couple of my questions......
delamar is offline Find More Posts by delamar
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Apr 14, 2006, 09:03 AM
Registered User
I.C.O.N.'s Avatar
Twin Cities, MN
Joined Feb 2006
1,456 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by delamar
Hello, I just unpacked my new NR3d. Ive found that the left stick does not centre. The stick when released sits to the right. This is a major problem isnt it?

Also, when trying to lift off the ground i have to trim it all a lot, like all settings are nearly adjusted to their max.

What checks should i do to it before i start properly flying?

Also, what does the switch on the right of the tx do the one marked gear.

The battery charger, how do i know when the battery is fully charged?

Do i need to tighten the main blades after getting it out of the box? Do i thighten them so the dont move? Or are they suposed to be able to move in their holders?
Thanks

for the last four questions.

Read the manual... ...

Then ask again.

As for the sticks and trim you will find all that info in this thread if you search.
They have both been issues for some users and the fixes are all here.

GOOD LUCK!
I.C.O.N. is offline Find More Posts by I.C.O.N.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 14, 2006, 10:34 AM
Team Compass/KBDD Team Pilot
Ah Clem's Avatar
Joined Mar 2005
3,346 Posts
Delamar,

I would look inside of the TX to see if a pinched wire or something else is preventing the stick from centering properly. This will make the machine easier to fly, and may also keep you from pulling a wire loose accidentally in flight (the main power wires in the TX are very close to the bales for the left stick.

As far as info and pre-flight goes, I would do as I.C.O.N. suggested and re-read the manual. I would also look through this thread carefully for set-up info and info on what should screws should be removed and lock-tited.

As far as battery charging goes, the charger should take a little over an hour to fully charge the battery. Charge until the battery gets warm, them disconnect the charger. Getting the battery hot may damage it. The lamps on the charger do not seem to be used in this application.


The main rotor blades should be able to move back and forth in the blade grips (lead/lag), but fairly stiffly. You do not want them to swing back hard as you spool up, but you do want centrifugal force to center them at flying RPM.

The helicopter will be properly trimmed when it will hover at about three feet off the ground will very little control input (the ideal is "hands off"). When you take off , it is normal for a properly trimmed helicopter to squirm somewhat, usually dragging itself backwards and to the left as it breaks ground-again, this is normal.

Obviously, if you are learning by yourself, you should not try to get it up to three feet to trim it, just do the best you can in terms of trim, skidding around on, or very close to the ground. If you have access to a proficient R/C helicopter pilot to trim it out for you, then that is the best option.

Whatever you do, use training gear and take it very slow.

T5S,

What is your pitch at low throttle stick in normal mode? It should be between 0 and 1 degrees to get the RPM where it belongs.

It does sound like your main motor or battery has issues.

Hopefully Venom will chime in on all of the above.
Ah Clem is offline Find More Posts by Ah Clem
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 14, 2006, 01:45 PM
Registered User
PA
Joined Apr 2006
17 Posts
crashed again!!!! Be going to the LHS to get new parts to get the heli in the air as soon as possiable. No big deal though its not bad to work on it and get to know the heli.
spaz8155 is offline Find More Posts by spaz8155
Last edited by spaz8155; May 15, 2006 at 12:16 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 14, 2006, 02:25 PM
t5s
Registered User
Joined Apr 2006
4 Posts
im sorry delamar, i do not have an answer to your questions. As for my pitch at 50% throttle, its at 0 degrees and at full throttle its at 9 degrees. It used to lift at that point but now its not. I think my problem is in either my motor or batteries. The motor doesn't seem to spin up as much as before. I think it might be that i overcharged my battery. Im going to increase my pitch to 15 degrees today and see what happens. It only skids on the training gear at 9 degrees now.

spaz,
I dont think the nr3d has that bad of a design. The only time i ever broke mine was due to my own errors or crashing. Other then that the heli has not broken under normal use.
t5s is offline Find More Posts by t5s
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 14, 2006, 03:57 PM
Registered User
PA
Joined Apr 2006
17 Posts
spaz8155 is offline Find More Posts by spaz8155
Last edited by spaz8155; May 15, 2006 at 12:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 14, 2006, 04:10 PM
DJI SUPPORT / TESTING
blade strike's Avatar
United States, CA, Big Bear
Joined Jan 2006
10,451 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by spaz8155
Thats my point "CRASH" I have watched videos with the blade and it did not break like this things does in the same crashes! For the money the heli should hold up alot better! Again when are the metal part going to be ready or is there anyway you can mod it to work with the blades upgraded alum head?

you are right the blade and cp2 do not break like the VNR3D.. But this is walkera plastic we are talking about...


@t5s

Setting the heli at 15degrees will not help, you might even damage the 4in1(the motor will prob pull to many amps with that much pitch).. It sounds like your batts or motor is gone.. I would say its prob your motor. How many flight are on the stock motor>?
blade strike is online now Find More Posts by blade strike
Site Sponsor
Latest blog entry: GenAce Tattu 25c 22,000mah 6s1p
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 14, 2006, 08:52 PM
Registered User
I.C.O.N.'s Avatar
Twin Cities, MN
Joined Feb 2006
1,456 Posts
[COLOR=Black]
Quote:
Originally Posted by spaz8155
Thats my point "CRASH" I have watched videos with the blade and it did not break like this things does in the same crashes! For the money the heli should hold up alot better! Again when are the metal part going to be ready or is there anyway you can mod it to work with the blades upgraded alum head?

This is not a newbie heli. although some have done it. I consider them an exception to the rule. It can be done but it is meant for the intermidiate flyer at least.

Like you I bought the 3D for my first heli. But soon relized it was over my head and bought a BCX and got some time on G3. It is NOT just weak it is just meant to be taken care of properly.

It flies well when in the hands of a good pilot.

If it doesn't. Contact Venom and they will take care of you.
I.C.O.N. is offline Find More Posts by I.C.O.N.
Last edited by I.C.O.N.; Apr 14, 2006 at 09:16 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 15, 2006, 03:18 AM
Registered User
delamar's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2006
347 Posts
Well, i just smashed my nr3d. Im up for blades, flybar, see saw, and maybe flybar control tray.

The thing is, im angry because i lost control of the throttle. I saw that i was loosing it, so i powered down, being only a foot off the ground, but the throttle didnt switch off. So it ended up againts the wall.

Why didnt the throttle switch off?

My flybar control tray still has the inner balls, its just missing the outer bits that the rod goes through. Should i replace it or not? Because my LHS is outa stock of the tray.

Thanks
delamar is offline Find More Posts by delamar
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 15, 2006, 10:24 AM
DJI SUPPORT / TESTING
blade strike's Avatar
United States, CA, Big Bear
Joined Jan 2006
10,451 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by I.C.O.N.
[COLOR=Black]


This is not a newbie heli. although some have done it. I consider them an exception to the rule. It can be done but it is meant for the intermidiate flyer at least.

Like you I bought the 3D for my first heli. But soon relized it was over my head and bought a BCX and got some time on G3. It is NOT just weak it is just meant to be taken care of properly.

It flies well when in the hands of a good pilot.

If it doesn't. Contact Venom and they will take care of you.

compared to others it is not very strong at all... I have 3 helis now and none have the problems that this heli does. I do fly a VNR3D a few times a week since Im still helping my friend out. ( he will not give up on this POS ) Like I have said the airframe does fly fine once you get the elects out. and once you mod all parts with the Losi ball end its "pretty strong", but it is sad that a home fix is stronger than what venom can ship out to their customers.

But I have a feeling that you guys will see the new metal head parts out snce they are out at some places for the walkera. So if you guys dont like the green you can always get blue. But Im kinda looking forward to see how these cnc parts are since they are also made by the same mfg has walkera

BTW: G3 is great for any person that is learning, I do wish I would have gone that route before I bought a thing.. But it really does not help with a VNR3D except for direction. The VNR3D is too twitchy for any sim to sim.
Good luck and happy flying!
blade strike is online now Find More Posts by blade strike
Site Sponsor
Latest blog entry: GenAce Tattu 25c 22,000mah 6s1p
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 15, 2006, 02:00 PM
Team Compass/KBDD Team Pilot
Ah Clem's Avatar
Joined Mar 2005
3,346 Posts
delamar,

If your radio is not functioning correctly, contact Venom so that they can take care of it.

One thing I would strongly recommend is that you re-route the antenna. I do not like the antenna wrapped around the landing gear on any of these machines, regardless of manufacture. Run it out through the nose, strap a plastic tube or a straw to the landing gear struts, away from the main frame, and then back to the tail skid. Make sure that it cannot get fowled in the tail rotor. Do not wrap it around the tail boom and keep it away from the motor and electronics.

As for the flybar control tray, the small projections that retain the flybar to the tray by being compressed by the wheel collars must be there, otherwise the swashplate cannot control the pitch of the flybar control paddles (i.e. no hiller steering). You need to replace the Flybar control tray.

Keep at it, do not get discouraged. This helicopter flies very well.

I am in complete agreement with I.C.O.N.'s assessment. It is a very good machine, but is not really for beginners.
Ah Clem is offline Find More Posts by Ah Clem
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 16, 2006, 08:15 AM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2006
10 Posts
Tough Question

I have a question on fixing this heli. This is going to be a tough one to get out straight so I may need someone who has fixed this heli or even someone from Venom to chime in. Ok here it goes. I broke my seasaw and some of the other parts connected to it on a crash, but when I got my new parts and started to reassemble it I couldn't figure out how to keep the joint that connects to the pins on the seasaw on. There are 2 pins on the seasaw. and on those pins are to pieces that have a ball joint and a hole for the brass pin to hold the lower pushrod on that connects to the servo. With the replacement seasaw comes to tiny plastic washers I will say. My question is how do I keep the two plastic pieces that go on the pins of the seasaw on. I have resorted to using crazy glue to hold them on but that doesn’t work well they become to stiff and do not move freely. I would assume that the little plastic washers are to hold them on but they do not go on far enough to hold them on. Does something need to be done to do this fix? I hope I made myself clear on what my problem is. If anyone can help I would appreciate it. This one has me stumped.
taz12799 is offline Find More Posts by taz12799
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 16, 2006, 08:42 AM
Registered User
I.C.O.N.'s Avatar
Twin Cities, MN
Joined Feb 2006
1,456 Posts
Put the washers on and heat up a butter knife or screw driver on the stove. Burn the ends down to mushroom them out and hold the washers on.

That is how the stock ones look.

I did this and then put a drop of CA on the end.

Or when you break the little rods off you can use a small threaded end of a control rod. Put a 1/16 hole in the see saw and thread the end of the control rod in. Then slide the rod across it a couple times to loosen it up. I put a drop of CA on the back side of it just for good measure.
I.C.O.N. is offline Find More Posts by I.C.O.N.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 17, 2006, 05:17 AM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2006
10 Posts
Another Question

Thank you all so much for the help you have given me so far. I really appreciate it. I do have another question. I just got a new flybar and the new one comes with the ends threaded. The new one doesn't fit through the flybar tray or the seasaw. Why is it threaded?
taz12799 is offline Find More Posts by taz12799
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 17, 2006, 06:36 AM
Nervous VNR3D owner :)
yanis's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Feb 2006
65 Posts
The flybar on my VNR3D was also threaded - I replaced it (was broken) with the equivalent part from a Walkera #22E-Z and it wasn't threaded.

The flybar should fit through the head, you will need to ensure the flybar control tray and see-saw are level and that the two headless screws that hold the see-saw in place aren't so tight they push through the ball bearings and block the flybar tube.

taz, this is a vnr3d you're talking about, right?
yanis is offline Find More Posts by yanis
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Venom Night Ranger 3D Ah Clem Micro Helis 0 Dec 25, 2005 05:21 PM
Sold Venom Night Ranger 3D. Sale or trade Solid Hit Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 0 Dec 20, 2005 06:29 AM
Brushless System for the Venom Night Ranger 3D Dave Lauck Product Announcements 0 Dec 05, 2005 01:00 PM
VENOM AIR CORPS- Announces Release of Venom Night Ranger 3D Dave Lauck Product Announcements 0 Nov 23, 2005 03:49 PM