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Old Apr 19, 2011, 08:49 AM
Rebelliously devoid of tattoos
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Australia, New South Wales, Sydney
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
I use an 8x4 prop on mine, 1200kv outrunner on a 3 cell 2000mah pack... I also have 2 1/2" wheels on it, so no danger of mowing here, prop is a good 3" off the ground.... The way my motor is mounted actualy helps with the CG, since my motor is so light... I cant remember exactly, but I think this motor setup is about 2 ounces lighter than the stock brushed motor + mount....
Thanks for that. I was hoping to experiment with 8x3.8 and 8x6 SlowFly props, since it does seem that most people perceive 8" as the maximum safe prop size without radical mods.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TestUser01 View Post
H2SO4 .... give the 1600kv a try. I have flown the MM with inrunner and outrunners from 1400kv to 2200kv. For me, the plane was the most enjoyable with the 1400kv motor. By mounting the outrunner on the inside of the plane, you will be able to maintain the designed CG without needing to move things around or add weight to the tail.
The stock Permax 400 is substantially heavier than any of the 28mm outrunners which I've got: 73g for the Permax, and between 37g and 53g for the various outrunners. Hence, I wonder whether mounting the outrunner on the outside, the way Dacaur has done, would be what I need to maintain CG without adding weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TestUser01 View Post
Eventually, I ended up removing the landing gear and hand launching the MM. With the gear off, the plane handles much differently. What ever you decided to do, you will enjoy the plane. I have two of them and have built two more for others. It is a fun plane to build and fly.
Interesting. I presume you're using either a very flexible and very small prop, or perhaps even a folding unit? Do you enable the ESC brake? Have you removed the plastic undercarriage mount, or does it simply slide through the grass without much fuss?

I like hand launching the EZ*, and for what it's worth I suspect that hand launching may actually be the best way to go about it - physics permitting - but on the other hand it's my first plane with wheels and I'm curious to learn.

What's to stop me from putting on say 3" wheels or even larger? Assuming of course their weight is not significantly more than the stock wheels.

I'm guessing that the windage caused by trailing big, fat wheels underneath the plane wouldn't help its handling any. What about angle of attack during take-off? Does it make a big difference if the plane points a few degrees higher unto the sky when it first starts moving?

Cheers,
Andre
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Old Apr 19, 2011, 12:14 PM
Heli's rule!
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Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
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Yes thats the reason mine is sticking out where it is, becuase the motor is so much lighter. You dont notice it in the air though. If you are curious, here is how I mounted mine. When I put them together originally I did like the first pick and slid it in the nose, attached with hot glue. Eventually my brother broke his motor stick, so I had to cut off the front of the nose to make replacement easier as seen in the last 2 pics, then glued it back on.




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Old Apr 19, 2011, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H2SO4 View Post

Interesting. I presume you're using either a very flexible and very small prop, or perhaps even a folding unit? Do you enable the ESC brake? Have you removed the plastic undercarriage mount, or does it simply slide through the grass without much fuss?


Cheers,
Andre
Andre,

I used the standard APC 6x and 7x speed props for the 2200 kv motor and the APC 8x for the sub 1600 kv motors.

Without the landing gear, the plane is more agile in the air. Never did really notice if there was much difference in battery usage with/without the prop. The plane also has a cleaner looking profile when in the air when the gear are removed.

As for balance with an outrunner, I used the battery to adjust the balance. I used lipos from 3s 1400 to 3s 2200 mAh and had no problem with adjusting the balance. Because I did so much changing around of the batt/esc/prop that with each setup, I would balance the plane and mark the battery location with a red line on the inside lip of the fuselage where canopy mounts.

The MiniMag is quite versatile and responds well to various power combinations. The longest flight I had was about 45 minutes using a 1400kv outrunner, 1400 mAh lipo and a very windy day. I kept the plane powered off, high and in the wind for as long as I could. Once altitude was lost I would power back up, gain altitude and fly the wind again.

What ever power combination you use and where ever you put the motor, you will enjoy the MiniMag, it is a great little plane to fly.
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Old May 05, 2011, 02:27 PM
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Jan 2007
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Broken wing spar mount

Had a mishap yesterday and the part of the wing spar the bolt goes through broke instead of the nylon bolt. Wing is reasonably intact. The way the bolt hole is integrated into the spar makes me seriously doubt gluing will deal with the forces involved here.

The only plan I can come up with is to shave down the front and back wing saddle a bit, mount a blind nut into some ply and glue that to the saddle. Drill new holes and double screw the wing into place.

Any better ideas shy of a new wing? Seems a waste to not use what otherwise still seems decent.
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Old May 05, 2011, 07:53 PM
Pro Bro # 2398
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BoonVegas, Indiana
Joined Dec 2005
651 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by heymak View Post
For those of use that fabricated the aluminium motor mounts, looks like multiplex agrees with the need to do this for a brushless upgrade.
looks just like mine,, very nice.
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Old May 07, 2011, 03:06 PM
rcflyer
UK
Joined Jun 2010
838 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flydiver View Post
Had a mishap yesterday and the part of the wing spar the bolt goes through broke instead of the nylon bolt. Wing is reasonably intact. The way the bolt hole is integrated into the spar makes me seriously doubt gluing will deal with the forces involved here.

The only plan I can come up with is to shave down the front and back wing saddle a bit, mount a blind nut into some ply and glue that to the saddle. Drill new holes and double screw the wing into place.

Any better ideas shy of a new wing? Seems a waste to not use what otherwise still seems decent.
The rubber band technique?
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Old May 07, 2011, 07:06 PM
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H2SO4's Avatar
Australia, New South Wales, Sydney
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flydiver View Post
Had a mishap yesterday and the part of the wing spar the bolt goes through broke instead of the nylon bolt. Wing is reasonably intact. The way the bolt hole is integrated into the spar makes me seriously doubt gluing will deal with the forces involved here.

The only plan I can come up with is to shave down the front and back wing saddle a bit, mount a blind nut into some ply and glue that to the saddle. Drill new holes and double screw the wing into place.

Any better ideas shy of a new wing? Seems a waste to not use what otherwise still seems decent.
I think I'alloy fabricating a piece of thin gauge steel or (preferably) alloy sheet reinforcement for gluing onto the flat side of the plastic spar joiner. I don't have the plane in front of me, but from memory the front surface is flat, as viewed from above the plane, and the rear is the rounded bolt hole. It may be necessary to remove a couple of mm of foam from in front, to let the metal spar reinforcer slide in like a glue-smeared coin into a slot, but that is not difficult.

The piece would need to be made from either 1.6 to 2mm aluminium alloy sheet, or say 1mm steel. The alloy would still be lighter, and much easier to work, even with woodworking tools, plus it would resist corrosion a bit better.

If one wanted to really get fancy, the reinforcement could be made out of carbon fibre plate, but I'd advise extreme caution in cutting the stuff. Pretend it's asbestos and look up all the safety precautions necessary for dealing with that material even remotely safely

The end result would be a flat piece of metal/CF shaped like an extremely shallow V about 7cm along the long axis and 1cm along the short side, exactly like the flat front surface of the spar joiner. The side touching the plastic would probably get epoxy, and the other side - facing the wing foam at the front - would get a smear of medium CA.

I think that would be enough to adequately deal with the forces involved, especially if the spar joiner is still not broken clean through.

What worries me about the top plywood plate approach is that you wouldn't have much coupling to the spars themselves. Sure the ply plate would hold the wing down, but it wouldn't have much resistance against the wings flexing now that the spar joiner is cracked, unless the ply was very wide and thick and therefor heavy.

The other approach might be to see whether the spar joiner is sold in one of the spares bags, and to buy that instead. It would mean ripping out the spars themselves though, which would be non-trivial.

Good luck with it!
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Old May 23, 2011, 07:21 AM
jason uk
jaylad's Avatar
wolverhampton(UK)
Joined Jun 2004
301 Posts
Hi all,I need help,do you think this would be ok on my mm with 2s 1500 ?
It's on the bay
140541051888
And what prop would be best ?
Thanks in advance
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Old May 23, 2011, 08:23 AM
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H2SO4's Avatar
Australia, New South Wales, Sydney
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaylad View Post
Hi all,I need help,do you think this would be ok on my mm with 2s 1500 ?
It's on the bay
140541051888
And what prop would be best ?
Thanks in advance
The motor's the right size - 28mm OD - and at 30A the ESC ought to be more than adequate, if a little heavy.

Given the 2600kv rating, you'd want to be on 2S, and even then it's probably too fast for anything bigger than a 6x4E prop. Maybe 7x5 tops, but personally I wouldn't be trying that without first checking the max current with a wattmeter.

It's not mentioned in the ad, but many outrunners in that size range are limited to 12-15amp max, which will probably be your limiting factor for the prop.

The included 5x5 ought to be fine, although personally I prefer 6x4.
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Old May 23, 2011, 10:51 AM
jason uk
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wolverhampton(UK)
Joined Jun 2004
301 Posts
Thanks for that,;-)
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Old May 25, 2011, 07:26 AM
rcflyer
UK
Joined Jun 2010
838 Posts
For better performance you will probably want a 1000-1400 kv outrunner to be able to fit a large prop (8-10 inch) for maximum thrust. This plane isn't really meant for fast setup, so you will get more enjoyment with more thrust and you will be able to pull out of crashes more easily
Jim
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Old May 25, 2011, 02:51 PM
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Romania
Joined Oct 2004
182 Posts
Anyone try the low-wing configuration?...what is the key for a good setup ?

looks like someone did a clean low-wing mod...wow...
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Old May 26, 2011, 12:30 PM
jason uk
jaylad's Avatar
wolverhampton(UK)
Joined Jun 2004
301 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjim11 View Post
For better performance you will probably want a 1000-1400 kv outrunner to be able to fit a large prop (8-10 inch) for maximum thrust. This plane isn't really meant for fast setup, so you will get more enjoyment with more thrust and you will be able to pull out of crashes more easily
Jim
So,something like this one 180671191115 on bay
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Old May 27, 2011, 08:38 AM
Registered User
Clintonville, WI
Joined Jun 2008
273 Posts
I just tried a 6x3E prop from Heads Up RC with my power setup MM with Himax HB2815-2000 inrunner motor (Multiplex Tuned Power Package upgrade) and it worked just great. I've been using the APC 5.5x4.5 E ot the APC 6x4E props and this really out performs both of them. This is a stock MM with the Power Package. In high grass it took off with no sweat. I've built 3 Mini Mags and this is the best performance I've gotten from any prop wiith the Himax motor.
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Old May 29, 2011, 03:37 PM
rcflyer
UK
Joined Jun 2010
838 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaylad View Post
So,something like this one 180671191115 on bay

I use this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=3883
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