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Old Nov 21, 2008, 07:28 AM
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United States, WV, Calhoun
Joined Nov 2004
506 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Novak76
i second waiting and not using the metal bolt. on a side note heres a video for my minimag that was shot today

http://s368.photobucket.com/albums/o...nt=minimag.flv
Nice video.

What is your power set up? Prop, motor, ESC, and battery. Thank you.
Todd
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Old Nov 21, 2008, 01:10 PM
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SoCal
Joined Jun 2008
32 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyhawk1
Nice video.

What is your power set up? Prop, motor, ESC, and battery. Thank you.
Todd
thanx.

heres whats in side my minimag

motor: himax 2815-2000
esc: cc thunderbird 36
prop: apc 7x5
battery: electricfly power series 1250mah

i get about 4 minutes of flight.
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Old Nov 21, 2008, 05:26 PM
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Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novak76
thanx.

heres whats in side my minimag

motor: himax 2815-2000
esc: cc thunderbird 36
prop: apc 7x5
battery: electricfly power series 1250mah

i get about 4 minutes of flight.

The battery, is that a 2s Lipo? A 3s lipo with that prop and motor may push the amp boundaries for the motor.
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Old Nov 21, 2008, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eruji
Okay now that ive been reading up on differential...

the minimag manual says you should have about 7mm of travel aileron UP and 3mm aileron down. So do i set the end points of my TX to get those values (i believe spektrum TX's adjustment is called travel adjust) or do i use differential to get those values? ive been flying with full travel up and down and it flies great (at least to me, which really isnt saying much) how important is this on the minimag?

I don't know how it is set on the Spektrum; I use an EVO 12 and I can set my my travel through the software. Look to see if you have some kind of graph that has a + or - range to it.

Set for low rates and high rates as well. Low rates might be 3 mm of up and high rates might be 7 mm of up. Assign to a switch and then toggle the switch as you please.

Set spoilerons for being up for all you want. I set the flaperons to use as a bit of camber by having both of them go down about 2mm. Makes the plane a bit more floaty when flying dead stick into the wind.
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Old Nov 22, 2008, 12:01 AM
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Pendle Hill NSW
Joined Oct 2008
155 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieB
I don't know how it is set on the Spektrum; I use an EVO 12 and I can set my my travel through the software. Look to see if you have some kind of graph that has a + or - range to it.

Set for low rates and high rates as well. Low rates might be 3 mm of up and high rates might be 7 mm of up. Assign to a switch and then toggle the switch as you please.

Set spoilerons for being up for all you want. I set the flaperons to use as a bit of camber by having both of them go down about 2mm. Makes the plane a bit more floaty when flying dead stick into the wind.
Do you mix the rudder with the ailerons?
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Last edited by digger12; Nov 22, 2008 at 12:07 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2008, 12:06 AM
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Pendle Hill NSW
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[QUOTE=digger12]Do you mix the rudder with the ailerons?
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Old Nov 22, 2008, 12:09 AM
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SoCal
Joined Jun 2008
32 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieB
The battery, is that a 2s Lipo? A 3s lipo with that prop and motor may push the amp boundaries for the motor.
oops

ya there 2s
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Old Nov 22, 2008, 12:18 AM
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SoCal
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i use a dx7 in my plane but i use a y-harness on the ailerons cause thats the way i had it setup with my old 4 channel radio. i did setup dual rates with the dx7 though were one rate is the recommended and the other is full throw like i was use to flying. i dont use any mixing on my minimag yet. thinkin about it now i should get ride of the y-harness and a set it for flaperons. may have to do some tinkerin this weekend
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Old Nov 22, 2008, 02:19 AM
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Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eruji
Okay now that ive been reading up on differential...

the minimag manual says you should have about 7mm of travel aileron UP and 3mm aileron down. So do i set the end points of my TX to get those values (i believe spektrum TX's adjustment is called travel adjust) or do i use differential to get those values? ive been flying with full travel up and down and it flies great (at least to me, which really isnt saying much) how important is this on the minimag?
Very.
Obviously as you can see, it works without differential. But it will work much BETTER with it, (and make you look like a better pilot). Aileron differential is especially important on high wing high drag planes. (like the minimag) It will help make your banked turns look better with less rudder help, and you wont lose as much speed in a turn. It also makes rolls more axial....

Any time I make changes on my planes, I set a dual rate... in the low rate position is the "old setup" in case it doesn't work out, and so i can compare it to the new setup, then in the high rate position I put in the "new setup". That way I can take off with the old setup that I know works, get a couple mistakes high, and THEN try out the new setup... If it doesn't work out, I just flip the switch back to the old setup.....

Other than for that purpose, I dont use dual rates... Expo works much better. I just set it with enough expo so that when I would normaly be on "low rates" the sticks arent overly sensative (but I still have full travel avalable without fumbling for switches. There have been countless crashes caused by people having their dual rate switch in the wrong position without enough altitude to flip it to high rates in time to prevent an unplaned full speed "landing"
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Old Nov 22, 2008, 07:27 AM
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[QUOTE=digger12]
Quote:
Originally Posted by digger12
Do you mix the rudder with the ailerons?

Digger12, I do not mix the rudder and ailerons on the Minimag. Does not hurt to do so but you probably don't need to.

Using the mix you can achieve a cleaner turn that has less tail slide in it.
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 08:32 PM
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San Francisco
Joined Mar 2008
1,212 Posts
Took a nose-in and bent my prop shaft, slightly, on my himax 2815-2000 inrunner.

It's very slight, but noticeable. Still flies OK. New one on the way.

Meanwhile, the black plastic motor mount has been knocked loose. What's the best way to glue it back into place? Hot glue? Foam safe CA? Gorilla Glue?

Thanks in advance....
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 09:16 PM
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Slappy ..... did you do the exchange with Maxxprod on that motor? They do a warranty that is something like $45 for a new motor. The inrunners are not considered repairable.

I have found that it is best to use the CA on that motor mount. You can use a hobby knife to break the CA should you ever need to replace the mount, and you probably will one day. Using Gorilla glue may be a bit too permanent.

Epoxy and Elapor foam do not play well together, for me anyway. I found that epoxy just did not have the bonding of CA.

Never did have a lot of luck with hot glue either. Some folks like it though.

Make sure you use regular CA on the elapor foam and a kicker. The foam safe CA's do not have the adhesion power of the regular CA,when using Elapor.

If the nose is a bit smashed up and the cockpit cover a bit smashed, you can hold them under hot water for a few seconds and then slowly pull the bend out. Running under hot water is called the Elapor Soup Method. Search this thread and others and you will get an idea of how to do it.


http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/warranty.html

..
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 11:20 PM
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San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouieB
Make sure you use regular CA on the elapor foam and a kicker. The foam safe CA's do not have the adhesion power of the regular CA,when using Elapor.
What do you mean by "...and a kicker." I have both foam safe and regular CA here. Not sure what you mean by the kicker. Won't regular CA eat the elapor? And therefore, what is the kicker?

Also, thanks for the tip on the himax. Got it through tower, it's a multiplex bundle they sell. I'll see what they can do for me. Appreciate the advice.
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 11:52 PM
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Slappy .. the 'kicker' is the Activator that is used to instant cure the CA. You put CA on one part and spray the Activator on the other part and then press the two together. Instant bond. Be sure to keep your fingers clear of any CA or you will glue them to the part.

For your motor mount, ( not sure where it is detatched ), you can squirt the CA between the mount and Elapor, press together and then spray the edge with the Activator. Often this will cause the CA to cure all the way through the glue line.

Regular CA has not eaten my Elapor and in fact, as I recall, if you take a gander at the MM manual, they recommend regular CA. If I am mistaken, let me know, but I believe I am correct.

Some CA will eat some foams; you have to read the plane manufacturers warnings to determine which glue to use. It is a bit like paint, some paint will eat foam and some paint won't.

Any chance you can cancel the Tower order? If so, call Himaxx and deal with them. I like the 2815-2000 and have used it quite a bit in my MM. I have grown fond though of the 2815-1400 inrunner. It and an 8x prop make for a real nice flying plane. Good combination of speed and thrust. You may be able to work a deal with Himaxx to swap the -2000 motor for the -1400 inrunner. They are from the same family so Himaxx may go for it.

Call Himaxx, ask for Jarvis and see what he can do for you. If Jarvis is not there then ask for the warranty desk. The guy that handles that desk is usually pretty good to deal with. Don't recall his name though.
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Old Nov 29, 2008, 11:54 PM
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Cow country, Virginia
Joined Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slappySF
What do you mean by "...and a kicker." I have both foam safe and regular CA here. Not sure what you mean by the kicker. Won't regular CA eat the elapor? And therefore, what is the kicker?
Kicker is an accelerator for CA that makes it dry instantly. It comes in a spray can: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCX61&P=0

You spray one surface with the kicker, let it dry a little, and then apply CA to the other surface and they will bond the instant they touch. Or for small pieces you can just spray after applying glue and assembling them. However, I don't use kicker for things like the MM engine mount where you need to slide or wiggle them into position because the CA will harden the second the two parts touch, before you can get them into place.

With or without kicker, Multiplex assures us that foam-safe CA won't bond elapor.

Alas, just two months after my last MiniMag "incident" I managed another nose-in yesterday afternoon. This one was all me; I was having so much fun that I failed to stop when the light got too low and lost it when the plane dipped under a treeline - it was nowhere near the trees, I just couldn't see its silhouette against the dark woods. Fortunately it wasn't going all that fast and the motor, electronics, servos, and battery all survived unscathed. However the nose having been weakened by the last accident, it caved in completely and broke apart in several places - a total loss, and the canopy as well. The wing bolt also sheared. I'll have to get a new fuse and rebuild the plane, and probably a new tail assembly too since I have no idea how to separate the old one from the trashed fuse. Amazingly enough, the motor mount survived as well, I think because the crumpling elapor of the fuse absorbed the impact.

I thought about putting the guts into something new instead, but this plane is too fun to fly not to rebuild it. It was handling some pretty gusty wind nicely too with the undercarriage removed.
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