O.K. so I've been working on and off again on this Typhoon. I have met with several pitfalls and found some good ideas to share.

The first was the problem of wide prop shaft spacing and a single 4" WTC. I tried three different u-joints set up both normally and as torque shafts...nix. Not one would run true enough at any real angle of deflection to even be considered. Pondering this for a while, I decided to try a belt drive schenario. With this I could even get some reduction, which could'nt hurt in my case. The end result works fantastic, super smooth and quiet.

The next pitfall was the extremely limited amount of vertical space afforded for the rear hydroplane shafts...there is just no way to get a belcrank in there. So I made up a crankshaft, which seems to work well so far. It is not my idea but I did somewhat refine the info I found.

Ideas comments?

Chris

Chris,

I think it looks really good! I like the belt drive setup! very impressive.

Thanks for sharing!

Dan

/coming alomg nicely....

Nice work Chris! You should consider to use a second bearing on the end of the shaft. The tension of the belt could damage your bearing because it has to carry the whole force.

That looks like a Copeland hull, isn't it?

No, it's a scratch built hull made by a friend of mine. He has some online pics at www.rickosplace.com. I managed to get him to pull me a copy for an incredible price. It's a big hull, right at 6 feet, but it is just a hull, nothing more.

I like the third bearing idea and will look into that.

Chris

Nice hull. Is there some pictures of the stern and bow to see?
I looked at the myspace link.Nice! Did he scribe the missle hatches into the master?
What scale is it???
I have a "fair amount'" of information on the Typhoon and would be happy to help with information questions. Drives me nuts to see one out-of-scale.

Well, at 6' it would be close to 1:96 scale I think. The hull has no scribe lines at all. It is a true modellers delight...basic shape and go from there. Rick also moved the sail forward a little for reasons of balance, I think. I have been debating moving it back to it's true life spot. This would not be hard, just a couple more cuts on the bandsaw.

I would love any info you have, please feel free to dump any and all you have to rom-109@comcast.net I appreciate that.

Chris

P.S I'll try to get some pics of the rest of it posted tonight.

I think about 69 1/2 inches would make it about 1/96 scale.

Have you tried your belt drive in the water yet? I will be interesting to see if there are any "waterwheel" effects causing your belts to slip or jump off due to water being pulled under the belt at higher RPMs.

I of course expect water to lend an extra resistance to the turning of the shafts but I doubt there will be any "jumping" due to any hydraulic effects between the belts and pullies....time will tell though. I might look into this tonight as it is now possible to put the boat into water for some testing... just kind of difficult with the short amount of sunlight left after a day of work...but then my water is at least still liquid...;-).

Chris

Here are some more pics of the sub, a long way to go I know, but it's coming together.

Chris

I found something else to ponder...did you ever wonder about the beating the seals in your WTC would take due to the fact that your servos don't move linearly but rather in a radial fashion which imparts a side rub on the seals as the pushod extends in and out of the WTC? I incorporated these neat radial to linear convertors onto two of the servos that are closest to the bulkhead in my wtc...voila, no more side loading. Cool stuff, these things are made by Miniature Aircraft and normally used for the rudder servo on their helicopters.

http://emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=18

Michael

Very cool. I had'nt seen that one. I think I like the ones I used a little more though as I was able to use a decent servo, not just a 148 or similar. Plus, it is a bit cheaper and allowed me to use a standard 1/8" rod straight out, not a clevis or similar.

Chris