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Old Nov 19, 2005, 06:34 PM
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Brentwood, Essex, UK
Joined Jul 2004
108 Posts
GWS Mustang build

Ok - now I've got the bug for this RC hobby. I've had a Multiplex Pico-cub, Multiplex EasyStar - both were great for learning the basics.
Then I bought a GWS Spitfire and threw it together in about four days. Ugly build, crashed it first time I flew it when a tree 'jumped' out in front of me! Well, I stuck it back together and haven't crashed it since, what a load of fun I've had with it.
Anyway, now’s the time to build a GWS warbird and make it look nice. Decided on brushless (BP21, 3S1P LiPo 2200mAh) and also after not being very impressed with the spits ailerons via the torque rods, decided to fit separate servos in each wing. I'm just a glutton for punishment, so also decided to 'glass' the model. None of these things I tried before, so I won't be surprised if it all goes horribly wrong.

Story so far is I've filled, sanded and glassed the elevator, replaced the wood spar with a nice thick carbon rod, fitted the remains of the rod inside the fuselage to stiffen it and opened up the battery compartment to accept the LiPo battery. Thought I'd add some lite ply to stiffen up the battery box too.
Rather than use plastic resin (nasty smelly stuff) I read all the wisdom here in these forums and went for the Minwax route - except you can't get Minwax in the UK, after a bit of hunting around, plumped for Ronseal quick drying varnish (satin), this seems to be very simuliar - certainly seems to be working so far!
I'm going to try and make it look like G-MSTG as I love the colour scheme and there are quite a few good quality pictures on www.airliners.net.

I'll add some more pictures as I go along - fingers crossed.
Any advice, comments etc will, of course, be gratefully received!
Rob
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Old Nov 20, 2005, 09:29 PM
Registered User
Moorpark, Ca.
Joined Apr 2004
1,100 Posts
Looks like you're having fun. I also put two 1/8" dia CF tubes along the inside of each fuselage half & added a thin CF ribbon embedded into the underside of the wing tip to tip as well as CF in the OEM slot. Another place I found that the GWS birds are very weak is in the wing saddle area. I found some CF robbon which I lined the wing saddle with. It really stiffened up the fuselage after they were glued on. I also glued two small strips of the same wing saddle ribbon onto the inside of each side of the cockpit. Mine started cracking even with the CF tubes in the fuselage. I only glassed the horiz. stab. Using a HiMaxx 2816 - 1220 outrunner direct drive with an APC 8X6e prop and 3cell 1500mah 12c LiPos, She is an excellent performing, QUIET flier with 12 to 15 min. of mixed throttle flying. Good luck!
Rick
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 01:43 AM
überprüfen Sie Ihre sechs
czechyour6's Avatar
Central Utah
Joined Feb 2005
480 Posts
How about this scheme? Want to really confuse people, Captured aircraft always got marked similar to their others so they wouldnt be shot down by their own guys while testing and training to fight against them, but that is a good looking mustang scheme your wanting to go with
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 01:45 AM
überprüfen Sie Ihre sechs
czechyour6's Avatar
Central Utah
Joined Feb 2005
480 Posts
Or this one! Before capture it was belonged to 4 FG USAAF, piloted by Lt. Thomas Fraser. After an landing in Cambrai, France, a machine was captured by Germans and sent to Rechlin. This Mustang served later with 2./Versuchsverband der OKW (nicknamed Zirkus Rozarius). The airplane was lost on 10 December 1944. This aircraft was used by Hungarian FW.190s pilots at Neuruppin to learn the best advantage against P-51s. Camouflage: white/olive drab/yellow

OK I know these are B s, get some more foam out and get to work
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 02:49 PM
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Brentwood, Essex, UK
Joined Jul 2004
108 Posts
Interesting colour schemes

I've never seen German marked P51's, it makes a lot of sense though - don't want to end up a 'friendly fire' target!
** foam skills are not that good yet - but if this one goes well, another in these colours would be fun to fly with it.
Robby
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Old Nov 25, 2005, 09:36 PM
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Grove City PA basement/park
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You have the right idea with the CF in the fuse. May want to glass/epoxy line the nose also. I know from experiece, as they crumble nicely.
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Old Dec 05, 2005, 04:22 PM
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Brentwood, Essex, UK
Joined Jul 2004
108 Posts
Next Instalment

Have just finished covering the wing and preparing the way for the servo leads.
Next mistake made was to allow the fibreglass cloth to bubble up a bit on the ailerons, ended up sanding off the bubbles and laying an extra bit of glass. Also added another layer over the wing tips to toughen them up, was going to cut the ailerons right to the end, but have decided to leave the ends on and hopefully the extra layer of glass will help them stay on.
Have cut shallow channels for the servo leads and a small hole to pass the ends up for a y-lead. Few more pictures of my amateur efforts for you all to laugh at!!
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Old Dec 05, 2005, 07:20 PM
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I used Monokote on the foam wing, and found it to make the wing indestructible, as of yet. Worked quite well on my GWS P-51. You have the CF rod in the correct place on the fuse. They like to break up in that weak area. May want to epoxy glass the inside of the nose area, as it crushes easily. Like the cd setup.
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Old Dec 06, 2005, 02:55 PM
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Brentwood, Essex, UK
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Nose re-enforcement

Thanks for the tip, ScratchAndBash, have laid some glass inside the nose before joining the two halfs of the fuselage. Rob
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Old Dec 07, 2005, 04:12 AM
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Aug 2005
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If your worried about the tips of the wing breaking, what i did on my mustang was drilled a hole through the tip into the wing and stuck a piece of carbon rod in there and just glued it in. Stock GWS mustang, no glass, himaxx 2025-4200 that would come way too close to folding the wings every time i moderately pulled up but never broke a wing tip.
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Old Dec 07, 2005, 04:16 AM
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Brentwood, Essex, UK
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Great idea

Now that's a class idea - def. going to add a bit of carbon fibre rod there!!!!
Thanks
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Old Dec 07, 2005, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorre
Thanks for the tip, ScratchAndBash, have laid some glass inside the nose before joining the two halfs of the fuselage. Rob
You'll be glad you did. You should see what mine looked like, after being pieced back together.
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Old Dec 14, 2005, 03:23 PM
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Brentwood, Essex, UK
Joined Jul 2004
108 Posts
Fuselage Now

Okay - I'm now onto the fuselage. Its taking a while as wife, kids and work take up so much time, esp. coming up on Christmas.
Glued together, panel lines filled and some sanded smooth.
Have also drilled some holes in the front of the battery box to assist in cooling. Tail fin came off whilst filling up the panel lines, so will glass cover this separately.
Next to go on to cover the fuse with glass.
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Old Dec 15, 2005, 05:18 PM
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Chelmsford MA
Joined Jan 2005
74 Posts
Talyorre
Let us know how the P-51 does with the CD-ROM motor it might be my next plane. I have a bunch of them haning around. I got a bunch off Ebay for like 10 bucks. They have performed awsome in my other planes (2 jets and a bi). The plane looks great so far.

Jeff
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Old Dec 17, 2005, 10:30 AM
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Brentwood, Essex, UK
Joined Jul 2004
108 Posts
Weighty matters!

I am just about to glass the fuse, but before I do I thought I would try and get an idea of all up weight...best estimates based on added weight on wing when glassing...

Airframe .................. 200 gm
Battery ................... 160 gm
motor, esc & prop ....... 86gm
reciever & 4x servos .... 48gm

total weight .............. 494gm or in old money approx 1.1 lbs

According to an article in Radio Control Model Flyer (Jan 2006 issue), my motor with a GWS 8x6 SF prop on 3S1P battery will peak at 14 Amps draw and 120 watts of power (static) although drawing that power continuously from the motor will overheat it to the point of damage!

Most articles I have read state for an aerobatic warbird you need around 75 watts per pound, so it looks like I'm going to be well overpowered.

I'm now really looking forward to the maiden...
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Last edited by taylorre; Dec 17, 2005 at 10:42 AM.
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