Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jun 05, 2010, 11:34 AM
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Thank you Matt
If you think of more, please post
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 04:08 AM
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Great post for newbies.
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Old Sep 04, 2010, 07:45 PM
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Hey Guys (: !
I got some questions here that are about the dx6i im about to buy! i understand all features except this ones here (Maybe some are for helicopters)
*5-point graphic throttle curve
*P-Mixes
*Revolution mixing
*Servo reverse
*Travel adjust
*Gyro Adjust: Normal, Stunt & Holdç

Thanks btw!! hope answers soon!
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Old Sep 04, 2010, 09:57 PM
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*5-point graphic throttle curve---Definitely a heli program

*P-Mixes---? Don't know probably a heli program

*Revolution mixing---same

*Servo reverse---Very important for both heli and airplane. Just lets you reverse direction of servo travel.

*Travel adjust---Very important also. Adjust how far your servo arm travels from 0º-150º. Helps you get the throw you want on a control surface.

*Gyro Adjust: Normal, Stunt & Holdç---heli

Hope that helps a little.

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rad...trol-gear.html

Matt
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Old Sep 04, 2010, 11:08 PM
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Got it! thank you very much for answering and posting the link! Now it all makes sense (:
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 12:41 AM
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Can some one explain in more detail what ballooning is and what can cause it thanks ?
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 07:46 AM
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Ballooning on landing is coming in to land a bit too fast. When you pull back on the stick to flare the model climbs instead of gently sinking. If you are not carefull the model can stall (low and slow and climbing) and fall to the ground. If you are ballooning on landings come in a bit slower and be gentle on the sticks. Gently ease into a flare and reduce more power. If you still balloon up give it power and go around for another try. Practice make perfect.

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/lan...-airplane.html

Matt M
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Pickle72 View Post
Ballooning on landing is coming in to land a bit too fast. When you pull back on the stick to flare the model climbs instead of gently sinking. If you are not carefull the model can stall (low and slow and climbing) and fall to the ground. If you are ballooning on landings come in a bit slower and be gentle on the sticks. Gently ease into a flare and reduce more power. If you still balloon up give it power and go around for another try. Practice make perfect.

http://www.rc-airplane-world.com/lan...-airplane.html

Matt M
Thanks for the info and link
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Old Nov 01, 2010, 03:41 PM
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Thanks for the info.
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Old Nov 07, 2010, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by grubbyjeans View Post
Here ya go. One note regarding this drawing, it demonstrates the use of bullet connectors and that the 'male' connector is attached to the + battery terminal. I recommend reversing that setup by putting the female connector on the + connection, which allows it to be completely covered with shrink-wrap insulation. Protecting the + wire prevents accidental shorting contact with another object.
What or how would you connect for a glider? Do you still use a ESC even though there is no motor or do you use some other device (BEC)? What would the sequence look like for a glider setup?
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Last edited by driv777; Nov 07, 2010 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Forgot to include drawing
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Old Nov 10, 2010, 08:18 PM
Ochroma Lagopus Tekton
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Here's one (or rather two) (1)Sensitivity. This is in the "manual" that came with my balancing charger:

Quote:
NiMH sensitivity: Adjust the (2)Delta Peak value as needed to obtain an optimal peak charge
WARNING: A higher value means more heat while the battery reaches peak charge. Adjust between Default - 20mv/cell. Most applications in general sport use will work in the Default Setting.
DO NOT EXCEED 120 F.
The same is available for NiCD.

I'm assuming this is some charge rate setting the user can customize. But I'll be if I can figure out what, so for now I'm leaving it where it is. A No-Prize to the first one who can figure it out.
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by new flyer View Post
if any newbies don't understand a term used on rcg or in any flight situation post the term here and i will find and post what it is or how it works ect i hope this will keep the non needed info out of this thread to make it easier to find what you need.

not sure if this will help any of you but i know that when i first started flying i had a heck of a time just figuring out what rx and tx meant. and what an esc was and stuff like that. i am hopping that people will see this and post anything that i forgot(i am sure there are lots) so that if a beginner doesn't understand what somthing means they can come to this thread and look it up with a search. i am not sure if this has already been done. if it has then it should be made a sticky cause i sure a heck couldn't find it when i neede an answer. i am hoping in my spare time to draw up diagrams of how different set-ups go so if a newby can't figure out where to plug what into what it will be here.well enough talkin here is the start. i will post diagrams later and if i think of something i miss i will post it to.hope this helps someone.



servo-receives signal from the receiver and controls anything that you can hook a control rod to.

receiver-(aka rx)- receives the signal from the transmitter.

transmitter-(aka tx)- broadcast a signal through the air according to witch way you push the sticks or witch way you flip a switch

lipo-(li-po)(lithium polymer) new very small very light weight batteries(more dangerous than nicad or ni-mh-may catch fire if cracked or bent or charged on wrong setting.

nicad-(nickel-cadmium) heavy batteries that can take some abuse and still be okay to use.

ni-mh-(nickel metal hydride) lighter than nicad batteries but about the same toughness.

esc-(electronic speed controller) receives a signal from the rx and controls the speed of the motor.

bec-(battery eliminator circuit) some receivers require a separate battery pack to control the servos and esc and 1 to control the motor. a bec gets rid of this problem. a bec takes a singal battery and sort of splits the electric into 2 so it can power the motor and rx using only 1 battery.

brushless motor- a motor that has no brushes and relies on a special esc to switch current on and off to certain coils in the motor to make it run without and contacts needed

outrunner- out-runners are brushless motors where th casing spins and the coils of wire are stationary.

inrunner- in-rrunners are brushless motors that look like normal brushed motor but on the inside the center is a magnet and the case has coils on it so that it needs no brushes.

brushed motor- a brushed motor has magnets on the casing inside. and the coils are in the center. the brushes conduct electric to a commutator. the commutator has little plates corresponding to each coil. when electric goes through one of the coils it becomes a magnet and turns to line up with the magnets in the casing. when it turns that coils plates slip from under the brushes and the next pair line up and that coil becomes a magnet. ect. ect. and so now it is spinning.

edf-aka(electric ducted fan) it is a circular housing with a motor in the center that spins a multi-bladed prop called the fan. used in many jet type planes.

gb-(aka gear box) Main purpose of the gearbox is to spin the prop slower than the motor's effective rpms which provides less speed but more torque.
The ratio of # of teeth on the pinion to the teeth on the spur determine the gear ratio.
Ie 10:66 would be 1:6.6 gear ratio.

Ailerons-Hinged control surfaces located on the trailing edge of the wing, one on each side, which provide control of the airplane about the roll axis. The control direction is often confusing to first time modelers. For a right roll or turn, the right hand aileron is moved upward and the left hand aileron downward, and vice versa for a left roll or turn.

Ailevators-Twin elevator servos plugged into separate channels used to control elevator with the option to also have the 2 elevator servos act as ailerons in conjunction with the primary ailerons.

Airfoil-The shape of the wing when looking at its profile. Usually a raindrop type shape.
For helis: The rotor disk is the effective wing, and airfoil refers to the shape of the blades.

Area-The number of square inches (or feet) of the wing. It's the wingspan multiplied by the wing's chord. The area of a tapered wing is the wingspan multiplied by the average chord.

Buddy Box-Two similar transmitters that are wired together with a "trainer cord." This is most useful when learning to fly—it's the same as having dual controls. The instructor can take control by using the "trainer switch" on his transmitter.

Flaperons-The movement of two aileron servos, both in the same direction at the same time, acting as flaps.

Flaps-Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge of the wing inboard of the ailerons. The flaps are lowered to produce more aerodynamic lift from the wing, allowing a slower takeoff and landing speed. Flaps are often found on scale models, but usually not on basic trainers.


lvc(low voltage cut off) once the device reaches a set low voltage it will shut off power to the motor so the batteries do not discharge to low

DVM (digital voltmeter) uses a digital readout to show voltage.

update


dihedral-amount of v shape in the wing

slimer-what rcers call gas planes


mixing-see post 13 for very good explanation (to much to copy)

FFF-FFF has 2 meanings

(1)-in the rc world one is fanfold foam it is a cheap foam that can be bought at lows or a similar store and is good for building planes.

(2)-fast forward flight usually used when talking about helicopters.

kv-RPM (in K's or thousands) per volt. Measure of electric motor output.


estimating motor needs-
Watts = Volts X Amps
50 watts per pound = scale flight
75 watts per pound = mild to moderate aerobatics
100 watts per pound = aggressive aerobatics
150 watts per pound = 3D flight
http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/multiplexcalc.asp


auw-All up weight. The flying weight of the plane with battery and everything.

wot-Wide Open Throttle

packaging terms
RTF-ready to fly
RR-receiver ready
ARF-almost ready to fly
ARC-almost ready to cover
KIT-collection of pieces
laser cut- pieces cut by a computer controlled laser
die cut-pieces cut with a die using pressure and a shaped blade


RX-receiver

bump-used to get a post back to the top of the list

LHS-local hobby shop

pushrod-the rod that connects the servo to a control surface

crystal-the little square silver thing in the receiver and transmitter. it pretty much set the channel that the rx and tx work on. they must be the same channel for the rx to work with the tx.

prop saver-a prop saver is a device that holds the prop in place usually with rubber bands so that in a crash the prop can flex or bend from the shaft.




TX-transmitter

ROG-rise off ground with no stick input





ps if anyone has a better way to explain anything already here send me a pm and i will change the first post so that it is right on top and they don't have to look through the thread.
I have read your beginners dictionary, and I'm looking for an explanation of the term "slow stick"???
Mannywest
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 09:10 PM
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United States, NJ, Monroe Township
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Originally Posted by Mannywest View Post
I have read your beginners dictionary, and I'm looking for an explanation of the term "slow stick"???
Mannywest
Slow Stick is the name of an airplane made by a company called GWS.

They sell the Slow Stick in ARF (almost ready to fly) form with or without the motor.
They also sell it in different colors (Red, green, and yellow).

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...RCH=slow+stick
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Old Nov 15, 2010, 02:43 PM
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I caught you "Peaking"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly Wheel View Post
Here's one (or rather two) (1)Sensitivity. This is in the "manual" that came with my balancing charger:



The same is available for NiCD.

I'm assuming this is some charge rate setting the user can customize. But I'll be if I can figure out what, so for now I'm leaving it where it is. A No-Prize to the first one who can figure it out.
Hi Fly Wheel,

I'm a noobie too but I've been lurking these excellent forums here and there for an education and I think I know the answer to your question. "Delta Peak" is a method of detecting charge in Ni type batteries this is how I understand it works. As the battery reaches full charge the battery dissipates heat and this heat slightly lowers the batteries voltage the charger detects this "Delta peak" and shuts off the charger.

"Sensitivity" is the trigger voltage for the automatic charge termination. If you set the SENSE voltage too high you can overcharge your pack and damage it. If you set the voltage too low your pack won't charge to full capacity. This feature allows you to tailor your "Delta peak" detection. I would stick with the defaults unless your battery pack manufacturer specifies a particular sensitivity or you feel adventurou$.

Here's another tip if you are using NiMH packs, they have a high self-discharge rate so they are a little more powerful hot off the charger then if they sit for hours before use. The difference isn't huge but I can notice it especially if they sit for a day.

Hope this helps, Good Luck!
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 08:43 PM
Ochroma Lagopus Tekton
Fly Wheel's Avatar
Blackstock, South Carolina
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkansas Travelr View Post
Hi Fly Wheel,

I'm a noobie too but I've been lurking these excellent forums here and there for an education and I think I know the answer to your question. "Delta Peak" is a method of detecting charge in Ni type batteries this is how I understand it works. As the battery reaches full charge the battery dissipates heat and this heat slightly lowers the batteries voltage the charger detects this "Delta peak" and shuts off the charger.

"Sensitivity" is the trigger voltage for the automatic charge termination. If you set the SENSE voltage too high you can overcharge your pack and damage it. If you set the voltage too low your pack won't charge to full capacity. This feature allows you to tailor your "Delta peak" detection. I would stick with the defaults unless your battery pack manufacturer specifies a particular sensitivity or you feel adventurou$.

Here's another tip if you are using NiMH packs, they have a high self-discharge rate so they are a little more powerful hot off the charger then if they sit for hours before use. The difference isn't huge but I can notice it especially if they sit for a day.

Hope this helps, Good Luck!
It does, in fact it makes perfect sense, thanx!
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