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Old Nov 21, 2005, 09:14 PM
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Gerry Markgraf's Avatar
S. Calif
Joined Mar 2000
1,409 Posts
Hi Ralph
Thanks for the kind words.

Yes, I am using the plastic nose protector. I glued it on using 5 minute epoxy (The Corsair and P-40 don't have theirs yet in the photos, but you can see it on the P-47). Its the only way I could get away with cutting the nose like I did. So far it has stood up to one flight on the P-47 and lots of handling as I take out the battery and re-install it. I really wanted to use the 340 lipo, but I did not want to bury a lipo inside the airplane where I could not get at it so the hatch was a requirement.

Weights on the aircraft with everything in and ready to fly is Corsair @ 4.3 oz, P-47 at 4.6 oz (I had to add a little weight to the nose) and P-40 at 4.2 oz. I'm glad the P-40 is the lightweight cause it has the smallest wing.
Gerry
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Old Nov 21, 2005, 09:30 PM
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DaveG's Avatar
Houston, TX, US
Joined Jun 2000
1,652 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Markgraf
Hi Ralph
Thanks for the kind words.

Yes, I am using the plastic nose protector. I glued it on using 5 minute epoxy (The Corsair and P-40 don't have theirs yet in the photos, but you can see it on the P-47). Its the only way I could get away with cutting the nose like I did. So far it has stood up to one flight on the P-47 and lots of handling as I take out the battery and re-install it. I really wanted to use the 340 lipo, but I did not want to bury a lipo inside the airplane where I could not get at it so the hatch was a requirement.

Weights on the aircraft with everything in and ready to fly is Corsair @ 4.3 oz, P-47 at 4.6 oz (I had to add a little weight to the nose) and P-40 at 4.2 oz. I'm glad the P-40 is the lightweight cause it has the smallest wing.
Gerry
Yes, beautiful little planes, Gerry. Since I don't have my kits yet, I assume the plastic nose protector just fits on the bottom of the nose. Gerry, did you just epoxy the protector to the nose-section that's on the side of the fuselage you DIDN'T cut? I want to use your approach so I can get access to my Lipos, too. I want to be able to swap-out a used pack with a charged pack, so I can keep on flying.

Thanks!
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Old Nov 21, 2005, 09:36 PM
Rem The Wasp CV-7 9/15/42
SammyB's Avatar
Santa Clarita,CA
Joined Apr 2004
1,685 Posts
How is the battery meant to be accessed factory? I have a hobbico zero conversion and I just take the wing off to get to the battery.
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Old Nov 21, 2005, 09:37 PM
<e>
Joined Jun 2005
58 Posts
Thanks for the input Gerry.
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Old Nov 21, 2005, 10:36 PM
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Gerry Markgraf's Avatar
S. Calif
Joined Mar 2000
1,409 Posts
Dave
The plastic nose protector is epoxied to the side of the fuselage that is not cut. It also extends back aways into the full fuselage to give a bit more support and is glued there as well. I originally planned a couple of magnets to hold the hatch onto the uncut fuselage side but found on the P-47 that the nose protector and locator pin held the hatch in place with no magnets. Its not perfect as the nose protector edge cuts into the nose hatch when you try to put it in place if you are not careful. I may go to magnets yet. The hatch needs to be in the nose cause thats where the battery needs to be to balance the airplane.
Gerry
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Old Nov 21, 2005, 11:31 PM
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Ralph_D's Avatar
United States, CA, Tustin
Joined Sep 2003
1,768 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SammyB
How is the battery meant to be accessed factory? I have a hobbico zero conversion and I just take the wing off to get to the battery.
It's not. Per the instructions you seal the battery inside of the fuse and use their charge panel to charge the battery.

-Ralph-
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Old Nov 22, 2005, 12:25 AM
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LTChip's Avatar
Helena, MT
Joined Feb 2003
2,916 Posts
Has anyone done a bat mod that allows you to swap bats? I'd hate to seal a lipoly in there?
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Old Nov 22, 2005, 01:33 AM
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Ralph_D's Avatar
United States, CA, Tustin
Joined Sep 2003
1,768 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTChip
Has anyone done a bat mod that allows you to swap bats? I'd hate to seal a lipoly in there?


Read above...
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 08:54 AM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
14,582 Posts
Well, I am certainly not going to seal the radio and the batttery inside my versions of these models, either.

I did bolt on wings on my 3 similar conversions, 2 of the Hobbico electric FF and one of the Hobbico rubber powered P-51. I will gladly give up the snap on wing for the classic bolt on wing. A screw at the back and a little dowel at the front.

I'd rather not have the charging panel and the scar it leaves behind when you remove it..

One easy way to do ailerons on the Corsair would be to borrow the FanTastic Models method of pull pull ailerons, ala their jets and T-6 model. The only small downside is some difficulty in getting any differential in the aileron throw and the visibility of small thread running from the bottom of the wing up to each end of the control horn in each aileron.

Use fine spyderwire or kevlar for the lines and 1/16" od styrene tubing for the guides and control horns. Make the control horns the same length as the servo output arm you are using and glue it halfway through the aileron. Thread it all together into a closed loop pull pull, with tiny plastic guides on the bottom of the wing. make a small hole in the right spot for the line to exit the bottom of the wing to the top part of each control horn. This ends up weighing a LOT less than a rudder push rod, as well....

On some of the models, it might be worthwhile to let the elevator servo go deeper into the top of the fuse and let the bottom of it go into the cockpit area, since the canopies are dark. This frees up more internal space for ailerons, as doesl getting rid of the snap on wing stuff.
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Last edited by Thomas B; Nov 23, 2005 at 11:13 AM.
Old Nov 23, 2005, 09:38 AM
Rem The Wasp CV-7 9/15/42
SammyB's Avatar
Santa Clarita,CA
Joined Apr 2004
1,685 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas B
Well, I am certainly not going to seal the radio and the batttery inside my versions of these models, either.

I did bolt on wings on my 3 similar conversions, 2 of the Hobbico electric FF and one of the Hobbico rubber powered P-51. I will gladly give up the snap on wing for the classic bolt on wing. A screw at the back and a little dowel at the front.
Thats how I did my Hobbico zero and was pleased with the results. I will probably do the same here.
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 09:41 AM
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DaveG's Avatar
Houston, TX, US
Joined Jun 2000
1,652 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Markgraf
Dave
The plastic nose protector is epoxied to the side of the fuselage that is not cut. It also extends back aways into the full fuselage to give a bit more support and is glued there as well. I originally planned a couple of magnets to hold the hatch onto the uncut fuselage side but found on the P-47 that the nose protector and locator pin held the hatch in place with no magnets. Its not perfect as the nose protector edge cuts into the nose hatch when you try to put it in place if you are not careful. I may go to magnets yet. The hatch needs to be in the nose cause thats where the battery needs to be to balance the airplane.
Gerry
Thanks for the details, Gerry. I'm planning to go a similar way and may use the magnets, as well.
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 10:05 AM
Registered User
Souderton Pa.
Joined Dec 2004
695 Posts
Any picts of the magnet setup and alerons usin spider wire?
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 11:41 AM
Pan Pan Pan
Harri3's Avatar
Arizona
Joined Feb 2003
395 Posts
I'm also interested in using magnets, any installation help would be appreciated!
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 02:02 PM
AMA 125691
wmcneal's Avatar
Jacksonville Florida
Joined Jul 2002
2,240 Posts
Gerry Markgraf,

Great looking planes! I like the way you have split the nose for access. What do you use to hold it on during flight?
Thanks,
Bill
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Old Nov 23, 2005, 08:37 PM
Electric Coolhunter
Thomas B's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jun 2000
14,582 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by thumbs1
Any picts of the magnet setup and alerons usin spider wire?
Here are two pictures of pull pull ailerons as used on the FTM AT-6/SNJ model.

The servo in the center section is covered up by a fairing, but if you click on the link to the FTM .pdf AT-6 plans below and look at step 16 or 17, it has a sketch that should clear things up.:

http://www.fan-tasticmodels.com/at6_full.pdf

Note that there is a double strand of spyderwirwe or kevlar running under the wing out to the little bit of tube used as a turnaround. After the turnaround, one line passes through the wing to the aileron horn on the upper wing surface and one line stays on the bottom to connect to the lower part of the aileron horn.

Do look at the link above for more details...around step 16 or 17 in that link.

On the little Cox warbirds, one would have to burrow into the wing center sections and mount the servo inverted and run the pull pull lines out the back of the little hand launching area under the wing.

On anything but the Corsair, I would use small home made torque rods and a normal aileron setup, but the gull wing of the Corsair makes that solution not workable, really.

The other fairly good aileron solution for the Corsair would be a pair of 4 gram class servos, one under each wing panel, with the smallest possible depron servo fairing that you could make, much as previously mentioned.

I got my Cox Corsair and P-47 from the big brown airplane truck today...
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