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Old Oct 31, 2005, 06:43 PM
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Parkscale Models Cessna 337 Build

First off, please bear with me, I am still pretty new to RC, and well this is going to be my first build thread.

As for building planes, I built my first balsa plane around April of this year and really enjoyed the process of seeing a stack of balsa transform into a flyable model. I couldn't wait to build another plane, and after looking around some decided I wanted to try something scale, and found the Monocoupe 90A sold by Zeke at Parkscale Models. www.parkscalemodels.com

The mission of Park Scale Models is to supply scale model kits for the park flyer. I think he hits a pretty cool nitch in the market with this concept, and had the chance to stop by and meet Zeke up at the NEAT fair last month. I wasn't about to leave the booth empty handed, and picked up the Cessna Skymaster 337 kit.

I had a few pixie p20's without a home, and thought the twin IPS drive 337 would be a good fit for one of them. Besides, there is just something very cool about twin engines, and I love the in-line design of the 337.
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Old Oct 31, 2005, 07:03 PM
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starting the build

Being pretty new to kit building, I figured I would follow the instruction sheet pretty much step by step. With that in mind, the build starts off by putting together three fuselage formers.

After putting the formers together, you need to decide if you want to make the landing gear removeable, or if you want fixed landing gear gear with a steerable nosewheel. I decided to go with the steerable nose on mine. (How could you not after all?)

The nosewheel assembly is pretty straight forward and is followed by the assembly of the battery tray and battery hatch. The battery tray assembly contains the formers for the mid-section of the fuse, and as such needs to be built before you can assemble the fuse.
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Old Oct 31, 2005, 09:26 PM
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nose wheel

As I went with the steerable nose, I needed to run the linkage before placing the stringers under the nose section.

This was a little bit of a dilemma for me, as I didn't want to run a servo dedicated to the nose wheel, but both the rudder and elevator servos will be in the wing, not in the fuse. I wanted to keep the wing as removable, and wanted to be able to adjust the nose wheel after the wing was in place.

Not sure if this is the most elegant solution, but here is what I came up with. I ran a small section of gold-n-rod straight back from the nose wheel above the battery tray. I drilled an access hole in the tray at the end of the cable as shown in the photo below. The idea is to run a second tube down from the wing, through the fuse directly opposite the cable for the nose wheel. I'll use a wheel collar to connect the two cables, and to adjust the wheel, and when I want to remove the wing, I can remove the wheel collar and pull the cable back out.

Thatís about it for tonight; I will try to post a bit more tomorrow.

_Scott
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 08:49 AM
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Great job Scott a wonderful little plane!

Mike
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 10:02 AM
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I had a similar dilema when designing the steerable nosewheel. I don't like adding additional weight, but with the availability of really light servos, I figured a dedicated servo would be best. I like your solution Scott, I can't wait to see some pics of the final setup.
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 01:05 PM
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Zeke,

Certainly a lot of room in the fuse for an extra servo. It's one of the things I really like about the model, putting in radio gear and balancing the plane should be easy with all the room to move stuff about.

-Scott
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 01:23 PM
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Nice pics of the build. Keep em coming. I have found that unless I need the access I like to fix the wing on. These planes are small compared to the slimers I used to fly.

I do like to see the innovative ways of liking things though. Never know when you'll need to use that idea somehow.

Steve
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_NJ
Zeke,

Certainly a lot of room in the fuse for an extra servo. It's one of the things I really like about the model, putting in radio gear and balancing the plane should be easy with all the room to move stuff about.

-Scott
That's why I made the battery tray so huge! So you have plenty of room to move the battery around to balance for a single or twin motor setup. Do you plan on getting the counter rotating props for your Skymaster?
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 03:32 PM
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Props...

I had originally just planned on going with two 8060 GWS props and running the rear motor in reverse. Not the best solution because of timing on the motor though.

I did find on Toddmodels.com a 'counter rotating' 10 X 4.5 that might work cut down to about 8 inches. Technically the rear prop is just a reverse pitch pusher prop correct? I think APC makes a 10X6 pusher which would probably work as well with a standard pusher on the front.

_Scott
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_NJ
Props...

I had originally just planned on going with two 8060 GWS props and running the rear motor in reverse. Not the best solution because of timing on the motor though.

I did find on Toddmodels.com a 'counter rotating' 10 X 4.5 that might work cut down to about 8 inches. Technically the rear prop is just a reverse pitch pusher prop correct? I think APC makes a 10X6 pusher which would probably work as well with a standard pusher on the front.

_Scott
The one's I got were from Hobbypeople.net. They are the Wattage 10x4.5 props. A set of two (2) tractor (normal) props and a set of two (2) pusher props. I cut mine down to about 7.5" diameter. They give plenty of thrust with the ISP-S2 motors
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 07:03 PM
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It looks like the prop on Todd's are the wattage ones, going to go ahead and order a set of them, and also an APC 10X6 tractor and 10X6 pusher from Tower. I have the S1 gear boxes on mine, the extra pitch might not be a bad thing.

-Scott
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 08:13 PM
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Old Nov 04, 2005, 09:43 PM
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stringers...

Okay, so now a bit more on the build... once the nose wheel is figured out it is time to put the stringers into the fuse.

The nose section gets stringers top and bottom. The top section uses 3/32sq stringers that need to be cut from the main sheet, and then cut to size as you put them in.

I was a bit stumped at first when I got to the bottom of the plane, trying to bend a stock 3/32 stringer through the curve created by the formers. After just a wee bit of head scratching, I realized that the formers for these sections are actually laser cut and numbered to ensure a nice smooth curve. (No bending required.)
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Old Nov 04, 2005, 10:17 PM
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Magnets

This is a bit out of order, but the battery hatch on the plane, as well as the vacuum formed front and rear sections are held in place using rare earth magnets.

You need a total of 24 1/8th diameter magnets, 4 each on the battery hatch, front nose and rear nose, and corresponding magnets on the plane for each of those. The best source I have found so far for magnets is K&J Magnetics. http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ 1/8th by 1/16th nickel plated magnets for $.10 each or 25 of them for $2.20.

Zeke was also kind enough to pre-cut all of the holes, which is a nice time saver. Before putting the magnets in place, I used a tip from brushless motor building, and first went through the stack of magnets and marked one side with a sharpie marker. After marking the magnets I put them in place with marked sides facing out for the magnets in the plane itself, and unmarked sides facing out on the hatch and plastic sections.
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Old Nov 06, 2005, 03:59 PM
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sheeting the fuse and the stabilizers

After all the stringers are in place the fuse gets complete by sheeting the top section with 1/32 balsa. The sheeting takes a little time, but soaking it in water first will make things easier.

After sheeting, the air scoop section which gets mounted to the top of the wing is glued together, and then the vertical and horizontal stabs. These all go together pretty easy. The photo of the vertical stab going together also shows the rudder behind the stab, and its placement. The only note here is yes that is the rudder and no it doesn't get glued to the stabilizer.
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