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Old Oct 15, 2005, 12:44 PM
TK-208 'Typhoon' Driver
Wheelerdealer's Avatar
London, UK
Joined Jan 2004
95 Posts
Engel Typhoon / Gato / U177 Build and Tips

There was once a similar thread on a now defunct forum that contained a load of information that got me started on my Engel Typhoon. These Engle boats with their dry hull design, lend themselves well to making alterations and improvements from the original . As most sub kits these days use WTC I thought it would a good to have one thread with a load of tips and help for people building and modifying these dry hull boats.

To start off I attach some pictures of the stern thrusters I fitted to my Typhoon. These boats have notoriously have notoriously large turning circles, and even independent throttles donít help much. I used a Graupner Bow thruster and sealed the motor in epoxy putty to water proof it. The exit ports are an oval shape and look pretty scale. I felt a more rectangular exit would interfere with the smooth flow of water (though I will experiment when I get it into the water. I have the thrusters motor on a separate proportional ESC and have it mixed with the rudder channel on my Robbe/Futaba F-16 Navy Tx.
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Old Oct 15, 2005, 01:58 PM
Scratch Builder
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Birmingham, England
Joined Sep 2004
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Good idea, may I suggest it gets added to the stixky beginners thread?

What sort of experience do you have with model submarines?

Michael
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Last edited by himszy; Oct 15, 2005 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2005, 05:26 PM
Originally Wheelerdealer!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by himszy
Good idea, may I suggest it gets added to the stixky beginners thread?

What sort of experience do you have with model submarines?

Michael
The Typhoon is my 5th sub over in a little over 10yrs

I seem to have lost my Wheerdealer account for now, so I am using Wheelerdealer1.
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Old Oct 16, 2005, 05:30 PM
Originally Wheelerdealer!
London, UK
Joined Oct 2005
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I donít like Engelís method of fixing the top and bottom hull with a screw at the front. Not only does it distract from the looks, it takes a while do get undone, and on a wet dark evening I would probably have done some damage to the subs paint work. So I fitted these to catches, the type that are used for cupboard doors. I just used some epoxy putty to bond them in place. A sharp tug and they come undone. Thereís no play in the device and you get a nice neat join line.
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Old Oct 16, 2005, 05:36 PM
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I like your stern thruster idea. I am using a similar approach on my 1/48th Jimmy Carter. The thruster is linked to the rudder servo for the first 1/3rd of throttle, after that it disengages. I also have a bow thruster, but this is for positional control only, not for use underway.
Jonathan
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Old Oct 18, 2005, 05:45 PM
TK-208 'Typhoon' Driver
Wheelerdealer's Avatar
London, UK
Joined Jan 2004
95 Posts
For getting wires and connections outside the dry hull, I have found these Posi-Lock connectors to be excellent. Naturally waterproof and easily epoxied or bonded in place. Easy to make and remove connections, they make great on-off switches and charging jacks too. I wanted to add alot of modifications later on (cameras, active sonar, missiles etc) so I want to have all the connections I may need in the future from the start. Much neater than leaving a bunch of on connected wires dangling around.
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Old Oct 18, 2005, 05:46 PM
TK-208 'Typhoon' Driver
Wheelerdealer's Avatar
London, UK
Joined Jan 2004
95 Posts
Anyone building / built one of these Engle subs, please post you tips, modifications.
Cheers!
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Old Oct 19, 2005, 03:20 PM
Really?!?
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One suggestion I would make is that you don't need to bring three wires outside your WTC for each servo. The positive and negative can be shared, so only bring those out once. So for three servos, you would need 5 wires brought outside the WTC, not 9.

Chris
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Old Oct 19, 2005, 04:41 PM
TK-208 'Typhoon' Driver
Wheelerdealer's Avatar
London, UK
Joined Jan 2004
95 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisS
One suggestion I would make is that you don't need to bring three wires outside your WTC for each servo. The positive and negative can be shared, so only bring those out once. So for three servos, you would need 5 wires brought outside the WTC, not 9.

Chris
Good point
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Old Oct 21, 2005, 05:31 PM
TK-208 'Typhoon' Driver
Wheelerdealer's Avatar
London, UK
Joined Jan 2004
95 Posts
One of the easiest and most useful mods to these boats is to replace the metal lid with a clear one. This allows you to see that all the internals are in good order, satisfy youself that all the electroics are working properly, check for condesation and last but not least the satisfaction of seeing what you've spent many hours puting together!
I used a 12mm polycarbonate sheet for the removable lid. I also made a couple of fixed viewing windows at either end. The seal is made out of sanitary silicon sealant. Here are some general shots...
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Old Oct 21, 2005, 06:26 PM
Scratch Builder
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Birmingham, England
Joined Sep 2004
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Man, that thing must take hours to open up!

What are the little black things next to the cap, they look like switches....

Michael
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Old Oct 21, 2005, 06:43 PM
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The bow & stern access hatches are a great idea. I built my Typhoon strictly according to the instructions and am now worrying about what might happen if I have to access a drive motor at any time in the future. I reckon there's no way that the stern dive tank can be removed to get at them. Looks like some mods might be called for.

Andrew
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Old Oct 21, 2005, 08:10 PM
TK-208 'Typhoon' Driver
Wheelerdealer's Avatar
London, UK
Joined Jan 2004
95 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by himszy
Man, that thing must take hours to open up!

What are the little black things next to the cap, they look like switches....

Michael
Yes, I hope to seal it once and forget about it for a while! I have installed a quick access screw top to vent the main battery while charging (will be feeding in some positive pressure with a aquarium air pump just to be on the safe side!), and all the charging and on off switches will be external.

Yes they are switches, you see the wiring in one of the other pics. Not for the battery, but isolation switches for the missiles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajg141
The bow & stern access hatches are a great idea. I built my Typhoon strictly according to the instructions and am now worrying about what might happen if I have to access a drive motor at any time in the future. I reckon there's no way that the stern dive tank can be removed to get at them. Looks like some mods might be called for.
mmm.. on my sub I fitted all the internals after bonding in the dry hull so I am figuring it will all come out again, but yes its a tight fit. I have to take out the bow tank (after unhooking the stern one from its rear mount and pushing it a few inches backwards) before the stern tank will come out. My rear window is fixed rather than removable, but I guess that could change if I get stuck
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Old Oct 22, 2005, 06:15 AM
Man from Atlantis
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London
Joined Nov 2003
906 Posts
That's going to be a very heavy boat to cart about!

There is a Typhoon featured in 'Submarine- models and their originals' from Traplet.

That uses a single cylinder, which looks almost lost in the cavernous Typhoon hull, but results in a large model that's reasonably easy to transport.

Andrew
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Old Oct 22, 2005, 10:18 PM
Registered User
Austin Texas
Joined Sep 2004
58 Posts
Here are a couple of photographs of a nice Copeland Typhoon belonging to a gentleman in Japan.
Thought about it when you mentioned a simple wtc may help keep it lighter.
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