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Old Sep 28, 2005, 11:54 PM
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Sunland, CA
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16th Century Korean Turtle Ship

I just wanted to scratch build a Korean Turtle Ship. Since I'm new in woodworking, I had to go through some trial and error so far. I guess I'll make a better one after this. Since I used 2x4 from HomeDepot, the wood cost only about $10.

Following images are from the 'professionals' kits. I used these images to build mine. One important thing I had in mind was to make this RC-capable.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 12:05 AM
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i'm not sure if i'm doing this right...

testing.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 12:13 AM
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ok, i guess it's working now so...

more pics
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 12:29 AM
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and more pics...

each piece has been cut out using a $100 table saw and another $100 band saw.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 01:00 AM
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Joined Dec 2002
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What an absolutely beautiful assembly of 2"x4"s!!!
I was going to ask if you wer going to "cam" the oars and row the boat, but I see two electric motors. Are those for propellers, or are they geared down and set up for the oars? They seem oddly placed.
As the turtle boats are propelled by "sculling" oars as opposed to "rowing" oars are the motors placed to provide side to side motion?
How will it shift the oar angle while in motion?

What an absolutely great engineering project.

Tell us more about the operation.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 01:19 AM
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operation

Thanks Umi,

Yes, to mimic the real turtle ship, i wanted to make it move by 'sculling' i.e. making '8' rowing, i found a couple of problems.

one is that i had to have two separate motors to control each side so that the turtle ship will make turns by 'sculling' only one side. this had some electronic programming which i lack. i do have a speed control, but i cannot make each side to return to the original position once a round is finished.

another one is, like you said, 'sculling.' to make it to row making '8', each row has to have an L shape and the end of L has to be connected to a bar then to the motor. this mechanism was harder than i thought. just a lot of work.

actually, i tested if it moves at all, but it did not work!!!
so i guess i'll have to make a heavy modification of the oars.

Any tips? thanks.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 01:42 AM
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some more pics from professionals

following images are from Serang Kim, a Korean modeler. this ship is called 'panokson' which means 'ship with a house (or a pavilion) on top'. Koreans modified this ship to make the turtle ship (or gobukson in Korean).
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 05:07 AM
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This is unrelated to the actual boat but I noticed you said $100 table and band saw. Can I assume you're referring to the Delta MS250 and BS100? If so what do you think of them?
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 09:05 AM
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if you can build a boat being new to wood working !!! you will figure out the cam for the oars. keep us posted on the build.
she looks really nice.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 11:25 AM
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$100 saw

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpslacker43
This is unrelated to the actual boat but I noticed you said $100 table and band saw. Can I assume you're referring to the Delta MS250 and BS100? If so what do you think of them?
hi cpslacker43,

what i have is a ryobi table saw and another ryobi band saw. i bought them at homedepot. both of them work great - i woudn't know how others work since they are my first saws. but i broke the band blades twice and then i switched to 8mm from 4mm that came with it. 8mm is a lot stronger, i guess.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut163
if you can build a boat being new to wood working !!! you will figure out the cam for the oars. keep us posted on the build.
she looks really nice.
thanks wingnut163,

for being a father of three kids, it's been tough to find time to do a project. my turtle ship is about 90% complete, but now i'm taking a break. my five-month old daughter needs me...

i'll have to build a whole new one with bottom heavier than the top. currently, all wood pieces i used are 1/8 inch, so when the ship is in water, it does not stand straight. so i'll use this one as just a model and build another one with more balance in weight distribution so that i could use it for RC. thanks.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 12:15 PM
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If you fold a piece of cardboard, or take one of you model oars, and hold it at the piviot point, I think you will find that a circular motion at the end of the "L" will create the skulling motion that is needed.
Imagine a linear set up of "circles" much like steam locomotive drive wheels.

With the handle of the oar at the back of the "inscribed" circle, zero, the leading edge of the oar will be angled in toward the boat. Lifting the handle along that circle, to 90, will skull the oar in. Pushing it forward along the circle, to 180, will angle the leading edge of the oar out away from the boat. And driving the handle down along the circle, to 270, will push the oar out. And pulling the handle back zero will angle the oar for another inward stroke.

The Pivot point is where the design is a bit rough at this point, it will need to gimble in three dimensions.
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 01:00 PM
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my idea of how it works

thanks Umi,

i don't know if i understood you right, but just by moving the oars back and forth does not create propelling force. at the end of each round, the oar has to tilt a bit and change directions from inside out and outside in - i don't know if i make myself clear.

so here's my thought. the problem i found was that i had to create three pivots including one attached to the bar (thick black colored), and there are 16 oars. 16x3=48 pivots... lot of work... and they need to move not only back and forth but also a bit up and down as well...

anyways...
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 01:08 PM
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Vfly, that is COOL! Nice work!
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Old Sep 29, 2005, 01:16 PM
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I think that I have the motor turned 90 degrees from what you are proposing.
Your motor positon pushes the oars in and out.

My proposal points the motor perpendicular to the centrline of the boat.
The "┐" handle portion is also perpendicular to the centerline of the boat.
The inscribed circles of each oar would be parallel to the centerline of the boat.

The lever action on the pivot point forces the oar to move in and out at the top and bottom of the circle. Pushing the the handle of the oar to the front and back of the circle changes the angle of the oar as it moves either in or out.

Don't make me build a mock up...
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Last edited by Umi_Ryuzuki; Sep 29, 2005 at 01:31 PM.
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