Slipso400: Club/sports 400 pylon racer with plans - Page 5

csisfun · Oct 27, 2005, 11:50 AM

Thanks! Hoping I don't get more cuts!

This plane requires a lot of planeing!!! Hope it flies well too!

pldaniels · Oct 27, 2005, 03:45 PM

csisfun,

*ooof* sorry about the cuts to the thumb

I see you went the hard way and put your top/bottom decking on as cross-grain. I make mine so that the grain all runs the length of the fuselage, makes it a lot easier to plane/shape

Are you going to be glassing your fuselage?

Paul.

csisfun · Oct 28, 2005, 12:49 AM

Probably not, as much as I hate covering, I really don't have a clue how to glass with good results. I tried a few times before just for reinforcement, but not as a subsitute to covering.

Next time I will not do cross grain! I am practically tearing the whole grain when I plane.

pldaniels · Oct 28, 2005, 01:05 AM

csisfun,

Glassing the fus isn't quite as bad as it sounds... believe me, I hated it before too.

The trick is to use water-based polyureathane (WBPU) clear (or tinted) paint.

I apply the first layer on, wait 5~10 minutes until its tacky, then I put some 2oz cloth on the forward half of the fuselage (protect on those landings), I apply another layer of WBPU on top of that, then put on some 3/4oz cloth across the whole plane and a few more layers of WBPU.

The nice thing about using WBPU is that it doesn't need to be mixed, it comes in an assortment of colours, it's low toxicity and it's cheap.

That said, so long as your landings aren't too harsh, you should be able to use normal covering too.

Paul.

csisfun · Oct 28, 2005, 01:53 AM

Uh oh... I was trying to build the wing, and while trying to join 2 sheets of 1/4" balsa, I met problems - they don't meet perfectly!!!

I think they need some sanding.

Paul, care to explain what the oval-shaped dotted line on the wing means?

pldaniels · Oct 28, 2005, 02:02 AM

csisfun,

That is the outline of where you must plane off the balsa (to the centerline of the LE).

See the following pictures --- you can see how I've shaved off the wood from around that 'dotted line'. Note that I took the wood down to the bottom of the plank for the trailing edge, and the -middle- of the plank for the leading edge.

csisfun · Oct 28, 2005, 08:08 AM

Does that mean that whatever is inside the oval should not be touched? I don't quite understand.

pldaniels · Oct 28, 2005, 09:29 AM

csisfun,

On the initial shave-down process, no, don't shave anything out of the inner area. However after you have shaved off the wood you can then sand down everything to a nice smooth profile, this will require you to sand off wood from the inner oval area. You'll notice on the latest plans there's a dotted line which also indicates the "peak" of the airfoil. With planes line this it's really more of a TLAR thing (That looks about right). Get it smooth and 'flowing' and you'll be right.

Paul.

JustPlaneChris · Oct 28, 2005, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pldaniels

I got my spinner from Aircraft World, it's a MPJets 30mm spinner with a 2.3mm collet, obviously with your 3mm situation you're going to run into some issues.

MPJet does make a 30/3.0 spinner and collet combination. You can get it from aircraft-world.com or www.espiritmodel.com.

-Chris

pldaniels · Oct 28, 2005, 10:05 AM

Chris,

Thanks for that. For a spinner, they're quite tough, the one I have now has survived a few spills and yet still is perfectly good looking. On the other hand, a graupner plastic spinner I bought was trashed on the first spill

Paul.

rkhoo · Oct 28, 2005, 10:28 AM

Paul,

Do do know what much weight did you add to your plane after you put on all the WBPU?

My local supplier has Ploycrylic, do it thing it will work?

http://www.minwax.com/products/prote...polycrylic.cfm

Have you tried tintig the WBPU?

Thanx.

pldaniels · Oct 28, 2005, 11:52 AM

rkhoo,

I'm not sure how much extra weight was added by the FG+WBPU. Minwax polycrylic is the right stuff to use.

As for tinting, while I've not personally tried tinting it I believe others have had success with various dyes. A few drops of food colouring perhaps even? Try searching the forums for 'minwax'.

Regards.

csisfun · Oct 28, 2005, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pldaniels

csisfun,

On the initial shave-down process, no, don't shave anything out of the inner area. However after you have shaved off the wood you can then sand down everything to a nice smooth profile, this will require you to sand off wood from the inner oval area. You'll notice on the latest plans there's a dotted line which also indicates the "peak" of the airfoil. With planes line this it's really more of a TLAR thing (That looks about right). Get it smooth and 'flowing' and you'll be right.

Paul.

I think I like TLAR. Now plans are secondary! I currently made this plane only from one printed plan as compared to 3 for my previous planes. I tell you, I was just covering, and I really found the worst covering I ever used - ORALITE SCALE WHITE. It's horrible. I'm never gonna buy it anymore; I'll stick to their transparent lites. Opacity isn't an excuse for a drop in quality!!

rkhoo · Oct 28, 2005, 01:39 PM

I remember hearing someone mentioned using wife's iron to "transfer" a laser printed plan onto balsa.

Pau, I notice the marking on your bare wing and wonder: How is it done?

pldaniels · Oct 28, 2005, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkhoo

I remember hearing someone mentioned using wife's iron to "transfer" a laser printed plan onto balsa.

Pau, I notice the marking on your bare wing and wonder: How is it done?

rkhoo,

Yes, I use a household iron set to 'cotton' or 'linen' and just use a moderate downward pressure. It takes a little bit of practice. The wood will also tend to curl upwards when you iron (this is because you're driving the moisture out of the wood on one side), so you need to flip the wood over after and iron the other side to even things out.

Paul.

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Oct 27, 2005, 11:50 AM	#61
csisfun Balsa!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Singapore Posts: 1,468	Thanks! Hoping I don't get more cuts! This plane requires a lot of planeing!!! Hope it flies well too!

Oct 27, 2005, 03:45 PM	#62
pldaniels http://nqrc.com Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Australia, QLD, Charters Towers Posts: 12,855	csisfun, ooof sorry about the cuts to the thumb I see you went the hard way and put your top/bottom decking on as cross-grain. I make mine so that the grain all runs the length of the fuselage, makes it a lot easier to plane/shape Are you going to be glassing your fuselage? Paul.

Oct 28, 2005, 12:49 AM	#63
csisfun Balsa!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Singapore Posts: 1,468	Probably not, as much as I hate covering, I really don't have a clue how to glass with good results. I tried a few times before just for reinforcement, but not as a subsitute to covering. Next time I will not do cross grain! I am practically tearing the whole grain when I plane.

Oct 28, 2005, 01:05 AM	#64
pldaniels http://nqrc.com Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Australia, QLD, Charters Towers Posts: 12,855	csisfun, Glassing the fus isn't quite as bad as it sounds... believe me, I hated it before too. The trick is to use water-based polyureathane (WBPU) clear (or tinted) paint. I apply the first layer on, wait 5~10 minutes until its tacky, then I put some 2oz cloth on the forward half of the fuselage (protect on those landings), I apply another layer of WBPU on top of that, then put on some 3/4oz cloth across the whole plane and a few more layers of WBPU. The nice thing about using WBPU is that it doesn't need to be mixed, it comes in an assortment of colours, it's low toxicity and it's cheap. That said, so long as your landings aren't too harsh, you should be able to use normal covering too. Paul.

Oct 28, 2005, 01:53 AM	#65
csisfun Balsa!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Singapore Posts: 1,468	Uh oh... I was trying to build the wing, and while trying to join 2 sheets of 1/4" balsa, I met problems - they don't meet perfectly!!! I think they need some sanding. Paul, care to explain what the oval-shaped dotted line on the wing means?

Oct 28, 2005, 02:02 AM	#66
pldaniels http://nqrc.com Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Australia, QLD, Charters Towers Posts: 12,855	csisfun, That is the outline of where you must plane off the balsa (to the centerline of the LE). See the following pictures --- you can see how I've shaved off the wood from around that 'dotted line'. Note that I took the wood down to the bottom of the plank for the trailing edge, and the -middle- of the plank for the leading edge.

Oct 28, 2005, 08:08 AM	#67
csisfun Balsa!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Singapore Posts: 1,468	Does that mean that whatever is inside the oval should not be touched? I don't quite understand.

Oct 28, 2005, 09:29 AM	#68
pldaniels http://nqrc.com Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Australia, QLD, Charters Towers Posts: 12,855	csisfun, On the initial shave-down process, no, don't shave anything out of the inner area. However after you have shaved off the wood you can then sand down everything to a nice smooth profile, this will require you to sand off wood from the inner oval area. You'll notice on the latest plans there's a dotted line which also indicates the "peak" of the airfoil. With planes line this it's really more of a TLAR thing (That looks about right). Get it smooth and 'flowing' and you'll be right. Paul.

Oct 28, 2005, 10:05 AM	#70
pldaniels http://nqrc.com Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Australia, QLD, Charters Towers Posts: 12,855	Chris, Thanks for that. For a spinner, they're quite tough, the one I have now has survived a few spills and yet still is perfectly good looking. On the other hand, a graupner plastic spinner I bought was trashed on the first spill Paul.

Oct 28, 2005, 10:28 AM	#71
rkhoo Fly by grace Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Canada Posts: 728	Paul, Do do know what much weight did you add to your plane after you put on all the WBPU? My local supplier has Ploycrylic, do it thing it will work? http://www.minwax.com/products/prote...polycrylic.cfm Have you tried tintig the WBPU? Thanx.

Oct 28, 2005, 11:52 AM	#72
pldaniels http://nqrc.com Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Australia, QLD, Charters Towers Posts: 12,855	rkhoo, I'm not sure how much extra weight was added by the FG+WBPU. Minwax polycrylic is the right stuff to use. As for tinting, while I've not personally tried tinting it I believe others have had success with various dyes. A few drops of food colouring perhaps even? Try searching the forums for 'minwax'. Regards.

Oct 28, 2005, 01:39 PM	#74
rkhoo Fly by grace Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Canada Posts: 728	I remember hearing someone mentioned using wife's iron to "transfer" a laser printed plan onto balsa. Pau, I notice the marking on your bare wing and wonder: How is it done?