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Old Sep 11, 2005, 07:27 PM
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Feb 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
"hot" glue the assembly to the board ....
Hi Pat,

How hard is it to get the hull off the board with the hot glue?



BTW...I saw your picture in the flight section..I expected you to be a little older given your 'guru of the model bench' status LOL

Cheers
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Old Sep 12, 2005, 09:41 AM
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Albuquerque NM
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Capt, Getting the hull up really isn't all that bad. I simply slip a putty knife between the board and the frame and tap it with a hammer. That will usually pop the joint loose without damaging either the board ot the part. When the time comes I'll post up a photo.

Yeah, at the tender age of 52 I have been fortunate to have done A LOT of modeling. Starting at age 5, the only extented break I can recall was Air Force Basic Training. I have also been very fortunate to have worked with a couple of Master Modelers over the years and have learned a great deal from them. And, having been full time at this since 1993, I have probably done more modeling just in the last 5 years then most guys could pack into a life time -- and still lovin' every minute of it!!!
PAT
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Old Sep 12, 2005, 10:11 AM
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Framing the Hull

With the hull assembly roughed in and the trimming done, the transom was glued to the keel and shears. The assembly was aligned to the reference lines on the building board and hot glued in place. During the gluing process, measurments were taken at the frames to insure the keel remained straight and true.
Then once all the frames were secured to the board, the whole assembly was glued together. Once the glue was dry, the outer floor boards were fitted on the frames -- but not glued. There's a suggestion in the instructions to do this while the battens go in to insure they'll fit when the time comes to glue them in.
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Old Sep 12, 2005, 10:18 AM
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Gluing the Battens in Place

The 1/8 X 1/4 spruce battens were fitted and glued to the frames. Once again, only minor trimming was required to fit the sticks into the frame notches. The notches aligned almost perfectly, and the battens run nice and true down the full lenghth of the hull. Meanwhile, while the battens are being fitted, the floorboards hold the frames nice and true. Once the battens are glued in place, the frames will remain aligned so that the floorboards will slip back in later.

Nest step -- the chines. Stay tuned! PAT
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Old Sep 13, 2005, 09:40 PM
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Wingnut I plan to do a post. Thanks.
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Old Sep 21, 2005, 09:30 AM
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Finishing the Hull Frame

The Chines were added next using 2 laminations of 1/8 X 1/4 spruce. The curves are gentle enough that no wetting was required. The frames required no trimming other then to open up the notch a little in the front frame -- better too tight then too loose!
It was also suggested that spruce sticks be glued in cross ways on both side of the third frame to aid in atttaching the bottom skins, so that was done too. Finally, the entire frame was sanded into contour.
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Old Sep 21, 2005, 09:37 AM
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Skinning the Hull

Expanded PVC Plastic is used to skin the hull on the Cavalier. I know there are a number of builders out there who still prefer wood planking, but using the dye cut plastic skins reduces the building time dramatically, and that doesn't even take into account the finishing time.
The bottom aft skins are applied first. They were glued in place with medium Cya and clamped along the edges using large stationary clamps till the glue set up. It turned out that the skins fit great, except that thy were about 1/4" too short, front to back. So it's a good idea to add the cross pieces which ultimately provided the glue surface at the front.
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Old Sep 21, 2005, 09:46 AM
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Gluing the Forward Sections in Place

With both rear skin sections in place, I added the front sections next. This put the skinning process out of sequence, which is my fault! The skinning process was going so well that I just blindly forged ahead rather then looking in on the instructions, which clearly state that the sides go on before the front bottom
Anyhow, it turns out that only minor trimming on the front and side skins will be required to get the sides in place and properly alligned.
As with the rear sections, the fronts were also too short. Again the addition of the cross pieces at frame 3 saved the day. Then once the skins were in place, a fill section was cut from scrap plastic and glued in place, and will be filled and contoured using Bondo once all the skinning is in place.
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Old Sep 21, 2005, 09:51 AM
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Fitting the Sides

Now that the bottom skins are all in place, the edges are carved back to the chines from frame 3 aft. Forward of fram 3, the skin is left untrimmed. The side skin was then trimmed to slip up under the forward section. Gluing is next, so stay tuned for updates coming soon.
PAT
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Old Sep 22, 2005, 12:13 AM
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Finishing Up the Hull Skins

Well, as it turns out, I did all this the hard way, but in the process, I figured out why! Somehow, I missed a whole page of instructions, which called out the sides skins to be glued on before the bottom skins were to be glued in place. But for a bit of trimming and fitting, it all worked out just fine, in spite of deviating from the sequence. And in defence of the instructions, they're fine, I just unknowingly turned 1 too many pages. OK, enough about that!

The skins are all on and trimmed, and the hull assembly is now off the board. The edges of the skins were trimmed using a hand plane and a good wood chisel. Once the rough trimming was done, the edges were block sanded into final contour, all while the hull was still glued to the board.
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Old Sep 22, 2005, 12:18 AM
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Removing the Hull From the Board

Once all the trimming and sanding was done at the Keel, Chines, and Bow, the hull was removed from the board. A putty knife was used to "unstick" the hot glue joints at the frames.

The "feet" were removed from the frames at the sheers, and the top trimmed in the same manner as the bottom. Now it's starting to look like a boat!!!
PAT
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Old Oct 18, 2005, 09:33 AM
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Sorry It's Been So Long!!!

Well, I'm finally caught up enough to get back on the Cavalier project! Anyhow, the next step was to fill the seams on the hull skin and get the surface cleaned up and basically ready for prime. Bondo was used to fill the gaps with a dab of spot glaze putty hear and there to fill the small scratches. After the major shaping was done, the entire hull was wet sanded with 400 grit to clean up the last of the fine scratches.
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Old Oct 18, 2005, 09:41 AM
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The Motor Mount

The motor recomended by M.A.C.K. for the cavalier comes with the anodized aluminum mount, and the kit supplies the Lite Ply mount plate. At this point, the mounting system went together fine and fits perfectly.
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Old Oct 18, 2005, 09:47 AM
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The Rudder Stuffing Box

A 3/8" dia. hole was drilled into the hull for the rudder stuffing box. Drilling the hole requires a bit of care since the keel is only 3/8" wide also. For that reason, the starting point was carefully located and a 1/8" pilot hole drilled first.
The stuffing box was glued in with thin Cya to seal the wood around it, then faired with 5 min. epoxy top and bottom.
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Old Oct 18, 2005, 09:50 AM
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The Boat Stand

A simple boat stand is supplied with the kit. It consists of 4 precut beams, supported by dowels in the "corners". The holes were located and drilled and the stand assembled and secured with thin Cya.
PAT
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