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Old Sep 02, 2005, 12:12 PM
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Kyosho Endoplasma & other Brushed Buggy Modified Motors for R/C Airplane Models

This thread has been created to specifically discuss issues and share successes with the inexpensive yet effective Kyosho Endoplasma 16-turn Brushed Modified Buggy Motors in either direct drive or geared applications.

Other 540 - 550 Modified Brushed motors are welcomed.

PLEASE NO BRUSHLESS MOTOR DISCUSSION!

Thank you!!!
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 12:15 PM
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Mike's question.....from another thread.

Here is Mike's Question from another THread>.....
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 12:21 PM
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Introducing Check Point Motors !

550 size modified Brushed motor (Racing - Competition Material) with round Silver-Plated Coppoer Brushes that eliminate play and therefore, maintains efficiency at all thermal and throttle ranges.

They have a nice video at Tower Hobbies:

http://video1.hobbico.com/gallery/odoc0481-deluxe.mpg

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LNKFF5&P=G

I will try the 19-turn out and see...
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 12:28 PM
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Reply to Mike's Question RE: 10 tooth pinion.

As some of you know, I had one endo that was going thru spurs about 1 every 30 seconds. I have determined it was a bad 12 th pinion.

Here is my problem. I purchased some 10th press on gears from MEC - they said they would fit the endo shaft. What am I missing here. These gears slide on real smooth and free spin on the shaft. I CA'd one on and then dripped a small amount of RED loctite on it and let it dry over night. This worked for about 3 flights and then started to free spin again.

How do you attach those gears, or did MEC just send me the wrong size. I have not contacted them yet but will later today when I have time. and I will also start that endo thread today if no one else has by the time I get back.

Mike
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Mike,

I suspect that the "pitch" of that 10-tooth pinion gear is NOT 48-pitch and perhaps explains why you are having problems.

I will mail you one of my 10-tooth pinion gear that I bought off from Gary Wright about a year ago.

Carlos
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 01:18 PM
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Gracias Carlos, do you still have the address here?
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 01:22 PM
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Mike, have you called Pete @ MEC?

He would be very interested in hearing about your issue.

I suspect that the hole is a bit over sized, rather than being tight/interference.

MEC’s boxes are standard 48pitch, so I doubt that’s the issue.



The following is updated from this post ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...92&postcount=4 ) and also referenced in this article ( http://www.rcgroups.com/links/index.php?id=4485 ):

Here’s a “What works list” for an economical way to fly a 40ish plane using 2 RC Car “Six Packs” (about 33 amps, 6 minutes-plus duration w/2000s):


Motor:
Trinity Maxx Mild (not the Wild!):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXWR55&P=7

When brushes are needed do this -- Brush upgrade to 5x5:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXBPF6&P=0

Spare armature:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXWR58&P=7


Gearbox – must be 3.5 to 1:
Master Airscrew Gearbox (what I use):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXZ900&P=7

Or,

Great Planes Gearbox:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXSL79&P=7

Pinion required – 13T 48 pitch
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXEX11&P=7


Speed Control:
Jeti JES045 ESC – 12 & BEC:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/jeti.htm


Propeller:
APC “E” 13x10:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXZL01&P=7


Batteries:

Always best to buy what you can see:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXST62&P=7
The Six Packs:

Always best to buy what you can see:

Two Six Packs of GP3300s come boxed together from SMC ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXDPD2&P=0 ), they’re excellent with 8 to 10 minutes of duration!

Also, DuraTrax does a 6 pack of Sanyo RC2400s ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXST62&P=0 ).


Something cheap like this might work; I flew an E-Maxx boxed set of 2000 packs that were supposed to be Sanyo, they flew like Duratrax Sanyos:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXCLS6&P=7


I’ve flown the red, white and blue plane in this photo with the above; more info can be found in my gallery, here (others are electric too!): http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...er=497&cat=500
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 01:47 PM
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MEC has been notified, waiting on response.
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 01:51 PM
jrb
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I would like to add that no matter which motor and cell count you use; consider getting your battery pack from MEC of Zapped & Pasted cells in a Solderless Power Tube(s) -- http://www.modelelectronicscorp.com/ !

The latest I’ve gotten from Pete are GP3700s; the best Sub C cell to date. Volts and duration are great!

Picked up better than an Amp over GP3300s; which were better than the P3000s by an equal amount. And, the P3000s did better than were better than Sanyo R2000 NiCds.

Pasting blows away welded cell performance by a couple of amps. Zapping adds too!

Yes, that almost 8amps for Z&P 3700s compared to welded NiCds.


The A size 2000s compare favorably with LiPos in price, weight and duration. SPTS are also available for these.


PS: If you get an MEC SuperBox you’ll be able to use it with the added power of a brushless when upgrading in the future.


"Notified"????? Call Pete; not sure that e-mail is a reliable method with MEC.
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 03:58 PM
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Jrb, I clicked on your gallery link and it keeps telling me there is an error with this page could you relink your gallery page. Thanks!! Mike and Carlos thank you for starting this thread, I am currently looking to remotor my sportster and really am looking at trying to get an endo to run my IB 3600 7 cell pack on. Question, I would assume that the stock esc will not work with an endo 16t and my battery pack? Also is the pinion of choice with the 7 cell setup and the gb 600 gearbox still a 3.0 (15t)? And I believe the prop of choice was the APC "Sport" 10 x 10? Thanks guys once again for this thread for those of use frugal pilots

Tim
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 05:04 PM
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Here's my gallery link: http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...er=497&cat=500

I'll fix above as well.

Also, you can get to a guys gallery by clicking on their username beside one of their postings.
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 07:59 PM
Fly a LiL' Lower Will Ya!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sun.flyer
Jrb, I clicked on your gallery link and it keeps telling me there is an error with this page could you relink your gallery page. Thanks!! Mike and Carlos thank you for starting this thread, I am currently looking to remotor my sportster and really am looking at trying to get an endo to run my IB 3600 7 cell pack on. Question, I would assume that the stock esc will not work with an endo 16t and my battery pack? Also is the pinion of choice with the 7 cell setup and the gb 600 gearbox still a 3.0 (15t)? And I believe the prop of choice was the APC "Sport" 10 x 10? Thanks guys once again for this thread for those of use frugal pilots

Tim
Tim u are mostly correct about the ESC. U could run a 12 or even a 10 tooth and get the amps down, but that might defeat your purpose.

MIke
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 08:05 PM
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OH, so there is a trick to it

Carlos, hold up on the 10 tooth, just heard from Pete at MEC. Let me give this a try.

Quote:
Hi Mike -
1) Trial fit the pinion and mark where it must be positioned.
2) Remove the pinion and place tape or paper over the front ball bearing to prevent Loctite from getting into the bearing.
3) Place Red Loctite on the shaft and a bit into the pinion.
4) Push the pinion onto the shaft to the mark you have made. Be careful not to move the pinion, as the Loctite sets up quickly. If you do move it, then remove the pinion and start over.
5) Place a tiny amount of Red Loctite on the very front of the pinion and allow it to wick into the pinion and shaft. Let sit for 1 hour.
6) Clean Loctite off gear teeth and go fly.

Regards - Pete
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 08:09 PM
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I really hope this works. I was liking the performance I was getting out of the World Models Fun World EP on 10 teeth. It had alowed me to fly a 13x6.5 instead of a 12X6 and the amps with the 13x6.5 went from right at 50 to just under 36. I would guess I could try a 14 whatever if I had one.

But with lipos, 50amps was just too much. perhaps too much for any battery and too hard on the Endo.

So let me go out to the shop and tear down the Fun World one more time today and put the 10 tooth back on. I will try it again tomorrow. What's the worse that could happen? It's only one more spur gear (I've gone thru 4 now). The plane is a real floater so if it falls apart I just float home.

MIke
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 09:09 PM
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Set Up

I guess while we are at this place, let's review how to set up the Kyosho Endoplasma Motor.

I usually start by reversing the bell housing and advancing the timing. Some do not reverse the bell housing and simply connect the Black to the (+) and the Red to the (-). But I do not like this proceedure. No real reason, it just does not seem right.

Loosen the 2 small screw in the bell housing (not the ones that hold the brushes). Note the placement of the notch on the positive side of the bell housing to the timing marks printed on the side of the can. Exactly 180 degrees straight across from there is another set of marks. Turn the bell housing so that the Positve (+) side notch is now on this other scale of marks and exactly 180 degress from where it started.

You are half way there (no pun intened). Now from where you have turned the Postive (+) mark on this side of the can. Turn it back so that the notch lines up with the timing mark on the other side of the timing scale on that side of the can - this is about a 1/2" turn. Tighten the housing screws.

Here is a good link on the subject:
http://www.marcee.org/Articles/TimingBrushedMotor.html

Now that the timing and reversing is done its time to solder the leads, capacitors and (if using the CC Griffen 55) one of the 2 supplied Diodes. If you are using another type of ESC you will not have the large black diode.

I usually make my leads about 8-9" long. Yes in most cases this is over kill, but it has been necessary in 2 models.

Now, since a picture is worth a 1000 words, I just took some photos of the set up. Notice I solder the blue caps to the tabs under the bell housing screws.

Have fun.

Mike
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Old Sep 02, 2005, 11:50 PM
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What I meant to say yesterday morning was that Mike's problem could be:

1. Enlarged inner diameter hole in that Pinion such that tightness is somewhat lacking.

2. Pitch is just a little off set and not totally 48 pitch. They could make a mistake and send the wrong type.

Mike,

Just to let you know the two 10-tooth 48-pitch pinions I bought from Gary Wright did NOT NEED any Loc Tite!!!!

Let me know if you still want me to drop one in the mail. Yes, I still have your address

Carlos
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