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Old Apr 08, 2008, 10:31 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartricky
Hi,
I've been flying my first SS, a stock 300, it pulls up and left after takeoff and has to be trimmed quite a bit. I figure this the effect of no motor offset in the stock setup.

I have just ordered a brushless mount that can be offset for SS #2.

Will an offset cure the need for a bunch of trim?
To cure the trim problem you need the motor pointed down and right 3 degrees looking from the rear of the plane. (Thrust Mod!)
boomer
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Old Apr 08, 2008, 10:32 PM
old aussie
neerim east victoria australia
Joined Feb 2007
298 Posts
bartricky YES
Russ
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 06:12 AM
Registered User
Pasco County Florida
Joined Dec 2006
1,111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartricky
Will an offset cure the need for a bunch of trim?
It should. There are other factors that might require trim. Get your brushless setup done with the down and right thrust line and try your SS. If you still have issues come back here and tell us what is going on. One of us, or maybe several , will help you figure it out.

Bob
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 07:14 AM
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Joined Jan 2007
567 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris1379
Do you mean a dowel rod? How did you handle the dihedral? Does the repaired fiberglass seem fairly strong?

Chris
Chris,

I used 1/4 square dowel rod from Home Depot. I cut the 36" in half and used one on either side of the wing. It did not go all the way to the tip, but far enough to work. The joint at the center was covered with two layers of extreme packing tape saturated with epoxy. I just sort of used the tape as light glass cloth, gut that would work also. The dowel was epoxied to the underside of the wing. I did not try for 100%, just the high spots. I then applied clear packing tape over and out past the dowel. The tape helped clean up the airfoil and made the wing stronger. Others use CF for the same trick, but no LHS and $1.00 vs. $4.00.
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 07:22 AM
Mt. Dora, Florida
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USA, FL, Mt Dora
Joined Dec 2006
4,040 Posts
Well, I don't think they are retards, more like mis-informed, a little lazy to check or not willing to excel at their job. The problem is most hobby shops are family owned and operated or they hire cheap labor and most no little about the stuff they are selling. This is why you should take what any hobby shop employee tells you with a grain of salt.



Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
My recent build thread was with a Slope Kit from EPYAYA! If that is the kind of Info you are getting from those retards I would quit doing business with them!
boomer
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 07:28 AM
Mt. Dora, Florida
mtdoramike's Avatar
USA, FL, Mt Dora
Joined Dec 2006
4,040 Posts
Have you tried to fly it yet with the re-enforced wing? I would think that with the stick under the wing exposed like that, it would cause some drag problems. When I re-enforce a wing, I try to in-bed the rod into the wing or on the leading and trailing edges as not to create a drag issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbleman
Chris,

I used 1/4 square dowel rod from Home Depot. I cut the 36" in half and used one on either side of the wing. It did not go all the way to the tip, but far enough to work. The joint at the center was covered with two layers of extreme packing tape saturated with epoxy. I just sort of used the tape as light glass cloth, gut that would work also. The dowel was epoxied to the underside of the wing. I did not try for 100%, just the high spots. I then applied clear packing tape over and out past the dowel. The tape helped clean up the airfoil and made the wing stronger. Others use CF for the same trick, but no LHS and $1.00 vs. $4.00.
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 09:56 AM
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Joined May 2006
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Mike theres so much lift with the undercambered wing that you wouldn't hardly tell the differance. I have used CF and bamboo skewers on my FFF planes and they float like a flutterby.

Ken
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 11:51 AM
I Can Fly Inverted :)
fresbill's Avatar
California
Joined Apr 2007
159 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbleman
Chris,

I used 1/4 square dowel rod from Home Depot. I cut the 36" in half and used one on either side of the wing. It did not go all the way to the tip, but far enough to work. The joint at the center was covered with two layers of extreme packing tape saturated with epoxy. I just sort of used the tape as light glass cloth, gut that would work also. The dowel was epoxied to the underside of the wing. I did not try for 100%, just the high spots. I then applied clear packing tape over and out past the dowel. The tape helped clean up the airfoil and made the wing stronger. Others use CF for the same trick, but no LHS and $1.00 vs. $4.00.
How far is it necessary to run that support out the wing?
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 01:09 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtdoramike
Have you tried to fly it yet with the re-enforced wing? I would think that with the stick under the wing exposed like that, it would cause some drag problems. When I re-enforce a wing, I try to in-bed the rod into the wing or on the leading and trailing edges as not to create a drag issue.
That plane is so draggy and flys so slow the rod under the wing makes no difference at all!
boomer
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 06:42 PM
Heli's rule!
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Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
9,326 Posts
LOL "drag problems" on a slow stick.... thats like saying a rock will have floating problems
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 08:31 PM
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Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fresbill
How far is it necessary to run that support out the wing?

I just cut 36" in half and put 18" on each side

I have flew that wing for 50 hours more till the black berry bushes tore it to shreds. I tried it with just the spar, but it was better with the 2" wide clear tape smoothing the air flow
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Old Apr 09, 2008, 11:32 PM
Shelter Kitty "Orange Death"
bartricky's Avatar
United States, FL, Monroe
Joined Jan 2008
3,165 Posts
On flight time...

I've been using 8 cell 600mAh batteries in my stock 300 SS and flight times are rather short. On SS #2 I will have a brushless 2410-09y, would this motor be more efficient enough to notice a flight time increase with the old batteries?

I do plan on going LiPo soon..
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 12:33 AM
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flydiver's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Jan 2007
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The stock geared 300 is probably not dissimilar in efficiency to a brushless. 600mah is just a small battery. You won't see much if any improvement, maybe even a bit less power. On 8-cells you were flogging that 300 pretty hard. The 2410 will be loafing on the same battery, maybe not up to efficiency level.
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 12:39 AM
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Joined Sep 2004
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adding to flydiver

Quote:
Originally Posted by bartricky
On flight time...

I've been using 8 cell 600mAh batteries in my stock 300 SS and flight times are rather short. On SS #2 I will have a brushless 2410-09y, would this motor be more efficient enough to notice a flight time increase with the old batteries?

I do plan on going LiPo soon..
Yes, adding to what flydiver said, your stock motor "enjoys' 8x1.2=9.6 volts, but the 2410 would LOVE to see at LEAST 3x3.7=11.1 volts.... sure [I didn't dbl chk specs] 9.6 volts is better than 2x3.7 volts, but........... ya get the picture?

Flight time depends a LOT on mah. need larger than 600mah in this case.

Good luck

LarryR : )
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 01:09 PM
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Southern California
Joined Apr 2007
820 Posts
Suppo Motors

Was at my LHS getting some servos for my heli and there just happened to be a slow stick on the shelf. Picked it up too. I want to try a starter set up. Currently have hs 55 servos, 1300mAh 3S 20C Loooong Max lipos, and dubro mini ez connectors. As for the motor, I wanted to try the cheap lightflightrc suppo motors. They have three choices, which one would be best for an absolute noob airplane pilot? Closest I got to flying fixed wing was a 30 second "flight" with a megatech merlin almost 10 years ago.
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Last edited by mckolit; Apr 10, 2008 at 01:10 PM. Reason: added title
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