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Old Aug 22, 2005, 11:41 AM
Flying on Flux Capacitors
Flipper_118's Avatar
Edmonton, AB
Joined Apr 2005
1,422 Posts
I think I found my dream motor. A PJS-800, once I get airborn with my camera and see how she preforms I may have to dive in and drop the cash for the motor, controller, and new batt. Hmmmm 1047 prop and direct drive I get a whopping 28 ounces of thrust, with the PJS of course. I think that will lift the SS with an estimated AUW with Camera of 25-30 ounces.
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 11:58 AM
Got shenpa?
flieslikeabeagle's Avatar
Los Angeles
Joined May 2004
10,940 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
Yes plug it in to the aileron (usually channel 1 on RX)
The aileron is channel 1 on my Hitec and Futaba transmitters, but I was surprised to find out recently that it is a completely different channel on my flying buddy's JR setups.

I'll second putting the rudder on the right stick, if you're flying Mode II, like most everyone in the USA.

-Flieslikeabeagle
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 08:49 PM
Flying on Flux Capacitors
Flipper_118's Avatar
Edmonton, AB
Joined Apr 2005
1,422 Posts
I hate to ask so many question on motors but as I look through my LHS site I found that the speed 400 are cheap! If I am using a Speed 400 running through "F" gearing and spining a 12*6 prop, should I power it with a 2cell lipo or a 3cell. Some posts on this thread say it runs at about 10 volts (8 nimh pack), my LHS says it runs on 7.2 volts. Since I think my camera is overweight for my plane I will pick up the motor tommorow while I am in the city. I just want to know if I need to buy the 3cell to get the max preformance out of the motor. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry I am now addicted to flying......going back out when the batt charges.......
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 10:09 PM
Flying on Flux Capacitors
Flipper_118's Avatar
Edmonton, AB
Joined Apr 2005
1,422 Posts
Some Carnage

OK I went out for a flight and since it was dead calm I brought the stick up 200 - 300 feet or so. Then glided down. After that I was doing some aerobatics infront of my house. Touch down, full power, climb up to a stall, kick in right rudder and hammer head back down, touch down. I was doing this then I got the idea to loop on 30 feet above ground. Bottem of loop was at about 5 feet underground. Smacked the ground at full speed, prop saver didn't work, broke the prop, cracked the gearbox and seperated the axel from the motor. So now I really need your advice on the speed 400! Here's a pic:
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 10:25 PM
Hey ya'll, watch this!
War Bird 22's Avatar
Cannon Falls, Minnesota
Joined Jun 2005
179 Posts
Thats wierd, the exact same thing happened to me. Anyway, I just took the c clip off and hammered the spur gear back down onto the little grippy part. then I put the C clip on, and it works fine. As for the gear box, Throw away the broken part, and just glue the rest on.
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 10:31 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_118
OK I went out for a flight and since it was dead calm I brought the stick up 200 - 300 feet or so. Then glided down. After that I was doing some aerobatics infront of my house. Touch down, full power, climb up to a stall, kick in right rudder and hammer head back down, touch down. I was doing this then I got the idea to loop on 30 feet above ground. Bottem of loop was at about 5 feet underground. Smacked the ground at full speed, prop saver didn't work, broke the prop, cracked the gearbox and seperated the axel from the motor. So now I really need your advice on the speed 400! Here's a pic:
3 cell Lipo! Your LHS as usual is wrong! Need a pack that can handle 12A and get a heatsink from LHS and some heatsink paste from Radio Shack and install.
boomer
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Old Aug 22, 2005, 11:52 PM
Flying on Flux Capacitors
Flipper_118's Avatar
Edmonton, AB
Joined Apr 2005
1,422 Posts
Thanks, I made my first heat sink (its instinct) out of beer can aluminum folded like accordian but will spring for the nice heat sink. So on the shopping list for tommorow is a 3 cell lipo 2000mah (wallet says ouch) I like the capacity and the discharge is 15C so that will work nice. Got a pixi so I am good for esc, speed400 with F gearbox, and about three 12*6 props, just incase I get carried away with aerobatics again.

BTW-Should I break the motor in or not?
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 07:14 AM
Registered User
Ron H's Avatar
Bishopville S.C.
Joined May 2003
4,022 Posts
I think the the water break-in is worth the time and effort on a 400. End result is a cooler running and more powerful motor right from the start.

If the motor is subjected to high loads before the brushes are seated, it will cause pitting and scoring on the commutator. Both lead to more heat and less power out, and faster brush wear.

A thorough break-in will polish the brushes and comm, so contact is increased while friction is reduced. I can't really say how much longer they last though, since I've never worn one out.
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 02:24 PM
Wandering IT geek
ronin4740's Avatar
United States, NV, Reno
Joined Aug 2005
3,965 Posts
I just had the same thing happen to my prop axel gear. The hammering down advise is sound and appears to have worked with mine.

As an update, I did get a bit of flight time in today before the winds grounded me. LOTS of skip, smack, bounce and goes on the first few runs but by the end I was mostly in control. When I wasn't I felt reasonably sure that it was due to the wind and the Slow Stick's flight profile in winds nearing 5mph.

I'm getting a little frustrated with this bird and it's inability to fly in the wind. IRL it flies almost exactly like the FMS model when it comes to wind and St. Louis is not known for it's calm fall days.

I may have to bite the bullet soon and buy something which can get up in a stronger wind and learn ailerons via the crash course.

The good news should I choose to do that - my LHS is having an unpublished multi-day in store sale (from all the "Huge Sale" signs on the front of the store I was afraid they were going out of business) so replacement parts for whatever I buy should be discounted...

I do suspect I'll be building a GWS Formosa or P-51D shortly... Both seem to be able to handle more wind based on their reveiws and neither will bankrupt me if I break something.

Chris
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 02:35 PM
Master of 1 point landing
Naperville, IL
Joined Jul 2005
2,841 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_118
OK I went out for a flight and since it was dead calm I brought the stick up 200 - 300 feet or so. Then glided down. After that I was doing some aerobatics infront of my house. Touch down, full power, climb up to a stall, kick in right rudder and hammer head back down, touch down. I was doing this then I got the idea to loop on 30 feet above ground. Bottem of loop was at about 5 feet underground. Smacked the ground at full speed, prop saver didn't work, broke the prop, cracked the gearbox and seperated the axel from the motor. So now I really need your advice on the speed 400! Here's a pic:
Buy another 300 or just bit the bullet and go brushless. the 400 is too heavy and running on 3S lipos, behaves like a 300 on 2S lipos (so said a buddy with a SS and he originally had the 400 - 'downgraded' to 300).
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 02:39 PM
Master of 1 point landing
Naperville, IL
Joined Jul 2005
2,841 Posts
SS and wind:

I fly on 1300 3S pack and brushless setup. The extra power of the brushless certainly helps in the wind, but >7-8 MPH and its sort of silly. I used a deans connector to hook up another 1300 3S pack and the extra weight makes it much more wind tolerant. Something you may want to try if you want flights with 5-10 mph winds. Above 10 and I dont try to fly it, just no fun.
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 02:46 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaBiggles
Buy another 300 or just bit the bullet and go brushless. the 400 is too heavy and running on 3S lipos, behaves like a 300 on 2S lipos (so said a buddy with a SS and he originally had the 400 - 'downgraded' to 300).
The upside of the 400 is it has much bigger brushes and will last much longer than the 300! Also the 400 with the G gearing on a 12 X 6 prop will produce 2 more oz of thrust plus the heavier plane will handle wind better and DOES NOT fly like a 300! ( quoting a buddy without the experence youself does nothing to help a newbee! )
boomer
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 04:18 PM
Master of 1 point landing
Naperville, IL
Joined Jul 2005
2,841 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
The upside of the 400 is it has much bigger brushes and will last much longer than the 300! Also the 400 with the G gearing on a 12 X 6 prop will produce 2 more oz of thrust plus the heavier plane will handle wind better and DOES NOT fly like a 300! ( quoting a buddy without the experence youself does nothing to help a newbee! )
boomer
K, I agree that first hand is better than second hand experience, but I trust my friends judgement and it was submitted for consideration with the disclaimer that it was not from MY experience. The extra weight will make it handle the wind better, but then u are stuck with it when it is not windy. Thats why I add a pack of lipos when its windy, and fly without it when its not. There are countless threads here about the SS and the 400, most of them support my friends observation. No reason to get elitest.
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 04:46 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaBiggles
K, I agree that first hand is better than second hand experience, but I trust my friends judgement and it was submitted for consideration with the disclaimer that it was not from MY experience. The extra weight will make it handle the wind better, but then u are stuck with it when it is not windy. Thats why I add a pack of lipos when its windy, and fly without it when its not. There are countless threads here about the SS and the 400, most of them support my friends observation. No reason to get elitest.
Getting elitest was not my intent. However I have done exhaustive testing of the 300, 350 and 400 setups and can say without reservation the 400C-G setup is far Superior. As to the weight the SS will float just as well in fact too well with the added weight! Most failures with the 400 is due to not using the correct size or capacity battery packs!
boomer
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Last edited by boomerace; Aug 23, 2005 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Corrected Typos
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Old Aug 23, 2005, 05:33 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2005
23 Posts
Modified Slow Stick

I am new to Electric Flight. My only plane so far has been the Aerobird Challenger, which I have flown several times with a moderate degree of success (and a few crashes).

After meeting the guys at the field, I decided to get a Slow Stick. Based on their recommendations, I bought the Slow Stick with the following modifications and additional equipment:

1. Axi 2212/26 Brushless motor
2. Tanic 3s 1550mah lipo battery
3. Hitec HS55 Servos
4. Castle Creation Phoenix 10 brushless esc
5. 10 x 4.7" prop
6. Hitec Electron 6 receiver (negative Shift)
7. 13-year old Futaba FPT4NBF Transmitter w/ same channel as Hitec Receiver
8. Hobbico Accu-Cycle Elite Charger

I realize that the above configuration is probably overkill for a beginner like myself, but hey, what the heck?

I am a little concerned about the motor-esc-prop-battery combination. Would I maybe be better of with a Phoenix 25 or Thunderbird 18 esc? My friend says he flies the same combination with the Phoenix 10 and has no problems, and the Phoenix 10 is ultra light.

Also, I am not too sure about the Futaba Transmitter/Hitec Receiver combination (same channel). I have the original Futaba Receiver, and was told that I could remove the case to reduce weight, but decided to get the Hitec receiver instead.

I have not built the Slow Stick yet, and can exchange some of the equipment if necessary.

Any comments would be appreciated.
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