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Old Aug 21, 2005, 10:52 AM
Angering mobs since 1980.
Twmaster's Avatar
United States, TX, Dallas
Joined Sep 2001
2,929 Posts
Oh yea. One more thing I want to mention. This is a reminder worth repeating over and over to all us newbies -and- experienced flyers.

Always, always, always check your control surfaces before takeoff or launch. Check for proper direction and throw amounts. Check for missing parts (nudge Chris ) and check for bent or broken bits too.

At our field yesterday I watched an experienced pilot with -years- of flying dork a nice brushless Little Rascal at launch. Cause? Reversed controls. His fancy computer radio somehow decided to reverse all his settings. He never even checked the controls before launch and when he input up elevator it dived into mother Earth at full throttle. Bye-bye Rascal. Never assume all is good. The short time a control check takes can save you -hundreds- of dollars, hours of work and the chuckles/jeers of your comrades.

--
Mike N
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 11:28 AM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
As I said before........ the control horn keepers will only lock in place if put on the right way. Look carefully at the slot in the keeper that goes onto the control horn. See that beveled 45 degree cut on each side of the keeper slot that makes one side of the keeper slot a knife edge. That is what locks into the grooves on the control horn. That sharp side needs to go away from the horn when you push it on for the keeper to lock in place otherwise it just slides off as soon as pressure is applied to the horn to move the control surface! THEN put a drop of CA on the horn and it's bullet proof!
boomer
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 11:30 AM
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United States, NV, Reno
Joined Aug 2005
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*chuckle* yes, yes... I DID check the control surfaces and radio range before initial launch, just neglected to mention it in my rather long winded post

The single stick Hobbyzone commander taught me a baaad habit - on that plane you steer with the right stick.... so, while on the ground I was moving the left stick left and right... but the minute the plane took off... well, I reverted to right stick up/down/left/right thinking.

I need to break that habit and suspect that the cost will be broken props!

Ah well, very little harm and only a slight foul all in all I guess! I do hope tomorrow AM is as nice as this AM was - the LHS has agreed to help me CG the plane. If I can get it up to altitude and it's relatively stable I think I can do minor trim stuff myself!

Chris
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 11:38 AM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronin4740
*chuckle* yes, yes... I DID check the control surfaces and radio range before initial launch, just neglected to mention it in my rather long winded post

The single stick Hobbyzone commander taught me a baaad habit - on that plane you steer with the right stick.... so, while on the ground I was moving the left stick left and right... but the minute the plane took off... well, I reverted to right stick up/down/left/right thinking.

I need to break that habit and suspect that the cost will be broken props!

Ah well, very little harm and only a slight foul all in all I guess! I do hope tomorrow AM is as nice as this AM was - the LHS has agreed to help me CG the plane. If I can get it up to altitude and it's relatively stable I think I can do minor trim stuff myself!


Chris
Rudder should be on the RIGHT STICK on a Rudder /Elevator plane. Move it there. If you had ailerons then you would put the rudder on the left stick!
boomer
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 11:57 AM
Angering mobs since 1980.
Twmaster's Avatar
United States, TX, Dallas
Joined Sep 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
Rudder should be on the RIGHT STICK on a Rudder /Elevator plane. Move it there. If you had ailerons then you would put the rudder on the left stick!
boomer
D'oh! Yanno, I saw that earlier when I read his reply and it went right over my head. Sheesh I must be getting senile.....

What Boomerace said. Directional control (ie right/left) should always be on the right stick.

One thing I missed from Ronin's earlier long post was that he has a Commander. IIRC this is a three channel bird yes? If he has good experience with that then the Slow Stick should be a snap for him to fly. Just get those controlls set right!

Also Boomer, thanks for the tip on those control horn keepers. I never noticed the bevel in them. The GWS manual sure does not mention anything. So combined with my cruddy eyesight I never noticed. Also I recommended the GWS glue since it was a) included in the kit, therefor free, b) works well and remains flexible c) will not eat the foam up if too much is applied.

--
Mike N

Mmmmm. Power.
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 01:02 PM
Oldie but goodie
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United States, CA, Orange
Joined Jun 2003
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Guys;

Went S.S. flying today with my Buddy and his new set up. Mamba 4200kv motor in MPI gearbox, 6.6:1 ratio, APC 1170SF prop and Tanic 3-1550 LiPo. The power was unbelievable. WAY more power than my Astro 010H set up (and mine has plenty).

So.....short of changing motors, would the same size APC prop provide better performance over the GWS SF props?

Thanks,
Steven

I should add that I had my first spur gear come loose on the shaft today. Pop the 'e" clip off, a little medium CA and I was back flying in less than 5 minutes. If it happens again, I'll try the drive pin mod I someone posted here.
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 01:39 PM
Suspended Account
Mentor, OH
Joined Dec 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerace
Have you tried www.allerc.com? I thought a motor mount was included with the motor!
boomer
yes, the mount did come with the motor but.....it's a fire wall mount. i need something that will fit over the fuse tube and not interfear with the can.
think of an AXI mount (front), the Eflite mounts on the rear of the motor.
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 02:05 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtdirt
yes, the mount did come with the motor but.....it's a fire wall mount. i need something that will fit over the fuse tube and not interfear with the can.
think of an AXI mount (front), the Eflite mounts on the rear of the motor.
I use the firewall mount all the time on a SS. Just cut a pliece of plywood to fit the firewall mount and epoxy a wood plug into the end of the fuse and mount the plywood with epoxy and a wood screw into the fuse plug getting the 3 degrees right and down thrust correction in the plug and you're good to go!
boomer
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 04:06 PM
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Joined Mar 2005
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Boomer - not sure if you missed my question below regarding getting desired thrust:

I do have one issue though. My charger (MKII) only charges up to 8-cells and I'm not ready to go to lipo.

So, is there an appropriate outrunner for 8 cells? I was looking at the 2808 series outrunners from Himax. If W = V*A, then it seems I could get at least close to 100W with one of them on a 10" or 11" prop.

What do you think about something like that?

Anyone else?

Thanks,
Jason
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 04:07 PM
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BTW Steven - I have read in several threads that switching to APC props over GWS generally increases performance with brushless motors. They're stiffer, so less flex, so better performance.

Jason
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 04:48 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Paul
Boomer - not sure if you missed my question below regarding getting desired thrust:

I do have one issue though. My charger (MKII) only charges up to 8-cells and I'm not ready to go to lipo.

So, is there an appropriate outrunner for 8 cells? I was looking at the 2808 series outrunners from Himax. If W = V*A, then it seems I could get at least close to 100W with one of them on a 10" or 11" prop.

What do you think about something like that?

Anyone else?

Thanks,
Jason
Jason,
That should work OK as should any combination that will give you the 100 watts. However keep in mind the SS likes a prop with a 2:1 Ratio. IE: 10 X 5, 12 X 6, 11 X 5.5 etc.
boomer
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 04:48 PM
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United States, NV, Reno
Joined Aug 2005
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Commander is a two channel plane - really not much more than a V-Tail powered glider.

I spoke with the folks @ the hobby store before going to get the prop and they offered to help me CG the plane. The "plane guy on duty" wanted to move the wing as far forward as he could... I was kinda fuzzy (more so now - working nights sucks) but when I got home with a new prop + micro connectors + velcro + sundries I remembered that moving the wing forward only makes the plane more tail heavy. I may have to rethink asking these guys for advice.

I ended up with a bottle of foam safe CA and glued the keepers and the horns to the foam. Dunno if I got the notches right but I suspect that doesn't matter as much now. Also got some velcro and stuck the ESC and RX to the mounting points with it.

Okay, I'll move the Rudder to the right stick... mmm... should I connect it to the Aileron port on the RX? That's what I'm guessing but your advice helpful.

Chris
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 07:56 PM
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flatfenderman's Avatar
Florence Arizona
Joined Dec 2004
247 Posts
ronin4740,

What TX do you have? If it's a computer radio you can program in rudder/alerion mixing to get the controls all on the right.

I had the same problem with dumb thumbs when moving from a Hobby Zone plane to my SS until I figured out how to move the stick on my Optic 6 tx. So dont feel alone!

In reading your post it almost sounds as your SS needs a little more juice, what battery are you using?

Flatty
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 08:15 PM
Been There! Done That!
boomerace's Avatar
Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronin4740
Commander is a two channel plane - really not much more than a V-Tail powered glider.

I spoke with the folks @ the hobby store before going to get the prop and they offered to help me CG the plane. The "plane guy on duty" wanted to move the wing as far forward as he could... I was kinda fuzzy (more so now - working nights sucks) but when I got home with a new prop + micro connectors + velcro + sundries I remembered that moving the wing forward only makes the plane more tail heavy. I may have to rethink asking these guys for advice.

I ended up with a bottle of foam safe CA and glued the keepers and the horns to the foam. Dunno if I got the notches right but I suspect that doesn't matter as much now. Also got some velcro and stuck the ESC and RX to the mounting points with it.

Okay, I'll move the Rudder to the right stick... mmm... should I connect it to the Aileron port on the RX? That's what I'm guessing but your advice helpful.

Chris
Yes plug it in to the aileron (usually channel 1 on RX) Plane should stay level when you place a finger under the wing on each side of the fuse 4-1/8" behind the front of the wing. I usually measure back 4-1/8" and make a mark at that point. I have found after 13 SS/s that the 4-1/8" figure is the sweet spot no matter what power system you are using!
boomer
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Last edited by boomerace; Aug 21, 2005 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 09:20 PM
Flying on Flux Capacitors
Flipper_118's Avatar
Edmonton, AB
Joined Apr 2005
1,422 Posts
Much'o Power

I bought a SS which is stock with a Kokam 1500 2cell lipo, speed 300 with the D gearbox swinging a 12*6 prop. It weighs in at 16.5 ounces with my camera servo and camera mount and batt. What is the rough amp draw with this set up. My batt is only an 8C so I can only draw 12 amps max but want a more powerfull motor. I will be using it for aerial photography and want better climbout speed. Should I get a speed 400? 500? I wouldn't mind going brushless but need some batt that can take the amps. I'm staying lipo, please give me your suggetions on a power system. I only need to lug up a few ounces (maybe 2-5) extra for the cam. Try to keep the price below the 200 mark.
Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Flipper
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