Looking at my sons (he has built this plane for free flight) I imagine a 280 or simprop 300 would pull it, that plane would need sheeting with thin balsa though to make it ridged enough to fly r/c........but I am for sure no expert

Lynn

[This message has been edited by Rekit (edited 06-30-2001).]

OKAY, IVE DECIDED TO GO WITH A 9X7 TRIPPLE BLADE PROP...opps sorry bout caps...and a gearbox on the 280BB...but what gearing...i am thinking 4:1...thanks

You know, I was at the LHS where I stood outside looking at the box of that very plane which you describe thinking that it would make a killer conversion! Im also pondering the S280 direct drive route with a Gunther prop and Ail/Rud control. What about sheeting the wings with fibre glass tissue?

Steve
"Nice 'n light, flies so slow, look out kids, it "Sweet 'n Low"!

[This message has been edited by Steve_Wrona (edited 06-30-2001).]

Would the fiberglass be any lighter than 1/32 balsa? By the time you add the cover coat (poly or resin) I would Imagine it would weigh nearly the same. There is another thread on this board about rubber conversions and how they accomplished the task.....worth looking for


Lynn

Will,

Wouldn't one of these be easier and a whole
lot more durable?
http://www.nesail.com/davelectric.html

thanks everyone, yes it would be alot easier to do one of those, but i am a scratch builder so even buying a kit is easy to me...i am only doing this because i am having to modify it...which by the way...i was thinking...if i put vertical balsa webbing between the spars, and 1/32 balsa sheeting on top from LE to the spar, then 1/32 balsa stringers from there to the TE...and sheet the front of fuse, and sheet around the area where the battery is going for a hatch and removal...that should be strong enough...i think we all need to build one and then compare...hehe...thanks,

Will

ahhh...also a plywood spar running through the fuse and through the beggining of the wing...and i think the tail will be strong enough...if not, before i cover, i will just make the tail from 1/16 sheet balsa,

Will

Hi guys,

I have this kit and plan to convert it to RC. I think that a direct drive 280 or Astro 010 would be the hot ticket.

The airframe would need to be significantly strengthened regardless of what you put in it.

Dave

Will,

Plans for an Su-26 can be downloaded here.
http://maryjo3.freeyellow.com/planscal.html

thanks, but that is a 58" wingspan...and it looked a lot more complicated than the sterling model...it also looks too short and stubby for a scale sukhoi...(is the sterling just to thin and stretched?)...thanks i will look into scaling them down

[This message has been edited by will62085 (edited 06-30-2001).]

sorry tower hobbies is wierd and wont link to the page with the plane...but that is where you can look at it
http://www.towerhobbies.com/listings/cat-cat-a.html

i want to convert this rubber powered plane to r/c, with all four channels for aerobatics...my question is, what motor?...its a 26" span i believe, i have 5.6g servos, a gws r4p, and a 12 amp micro speed control, so im not afraid to go speed 400...i want a direct drive to keep the prop looking scale size, but i also want it to be able to at least prop hang, if not full out hovering, it is a sukhoi...which is fully aerobatic...i dont want a floater that can hardly stay airborn, and i dont want a bullet that is to fast to even see where im going...i was thinking a permax 280BB spinning a graupner CAM 4.7x2.4 prop...battery will be 6-8 cell 300mah nicd...or 6-8 cell 700mah nimh...also what covering should i use?...the supplied tissue with dope? thanks,

Will

I've been eyeing the Sterling Extra for awhile- I've got the kit, and we're thinking along the same lines. However- I wouldn't beef the airplane up at all- throw out the supplied silkspan, it's heavy, and I'm thinking about a TR-389 or MG1 motor to keep it light. I'm thinking more on the lines of 8 cell, 280 NiMHs on the TR-389 if this will really work- shoot for a sub 8 ounce airplane. Another option is 6 350 nicad cells on the MG1- which has a fair amount of power- close to 6 ounces of thrust. I know, we're not quite prop hanging unless we can really get the weight down, but we're not far from it. Sterling kits are way overbuilt for rubber, which means that they are fine for electrics without much beef. Remember, this is a rubber powered conversion, not a gassie conversion.

Sam Brauer
Norwalk, CT

I too have seen that Sterling kit at the local hobby store. I have one other plane in that size that is powered by a 280BB motor geared 4:1. It is a direct scale down of an X250 with a 26" span. At 12 oz flying weight the little thing is something of a bullet to fly. Its not really that fast compared to a large model but relative to its tiny size it feels fast when flying and you really have to stay on top of it. Can't take your eyes off of it for a second.

If its slower flying you want and potential for prop hanging you'll need to get significantly lighter than the 12oz range. This probably rules out the 280BB motor and the heavy batteries needed to feed it.

If you are an experienced scratch builder then you can judge for yourself what needs to be strengthened if anything, in the airframe. Your ideas for sheeting are fine for a heavier faster plane but will add too much weight for anything with a prayer of hovering. You will need to be counting every gram. Like Sam says, target a sub 8-9 oz flying weight. Don't get too obsessed with prop-hanging or hovering though. Its an elusive goal with electrics and you can have quite enjoyable aerobatic capabilities without it.