Apr 10, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Silicon Valley, Calif
Joined Jan 2005
1,702 Posts
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Thank you for your encouragement. The mods are surprisingly minimal. I can even go back to flying with electric power.
SkyFun uses a 10mm motor stick. It has a channel in the back where the stock motor mounts on an aluminum "stick." I remove that motor mount and replace it with a 24mm tube that I glue onto another 10mm square tube. The launch rod skewers the airplane; I make a hole in the nose and glue in a 1/4" launch lug and another one inside the fuselage to aid mounting on the rod. The bottom lug is the motor stick. My original plan is to drill out a wooden 10mm motor stick, but when I go to LHS to buy the wood stick, I notice these beautiful 6" carbon 10x10mm pieces with round holes through them--in the discount bin for $2.50 or so apiece. That's my motor stick.
Aside from that, the airplane is stock. I clip about 3/4" from each wingtip to square them up in preparation for gluing on additional vertical fins. I eventually omit the extra fins. My original worry is moving the center of pressure further away from the CG, but ultimately it turns out that the model is stable enough as it is.
My first SkyFun loses a wing in a hig-G turn. On this one, I add carbon rods to stiffen the wing, and overlay them with strapping tape. Probably overkill. The yellow stuff is Zagi tape, mostly to protect the foam on landing.
As I'm saying, I can switch from rocket to electric, even in the field. This is very helpful in trimming the model in a safe environment. I have two flight conditions in my TX, one for boost, another for glide. The boost setting has neutral elevator trim, very narrow travel limits and lots of expo. I find the neutral setting by climbing and diving vertically under electric power. This turns out to be close enough approximation. The model is only one click of elevator trim off the perfect "up" setting.
Ari.
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