Gday again to all you great Slow Flying netizens Welcome to Waynes Indoor World September 1998 - As always, its a buzz to receive your letters, emails and pictures thanks and please keep it up.
Before I get into this months column in detail, I should start with an explanation and apology. As regular readers would be aware, I have made references over the last few months to my housing conditions. Well, I am EXTREMELY happy to report that a few days ago, my family and I finally managed to move out of our rented accommodation into our new home (the converted church I flew the Kolibri inside of). The telecommunication facilities in the rented place were to say the least, "ordinary" which contributed to some lost emails, ISP problems and occasional embarrassment on my part. All of which has meant that some of the columns of the last few months may not have been up to the standard I would have liked to see since I only unpacked the computer last night, this months column may also seem a little disjointed. All I have to do now is get the garage built so I can unpack my aeroplanes, tools, electronics, and bits and pieces!
A BIG THANKS to all of you who have sent me pictures and details of your SlowFly experiences. Please look through the occasional error, read on, and ENJOY!!
This month as a follow up to last months "Kolibri" construction article, Ill detail some "variations on the Kolibri theme" with information and pictures of both my own experiments and those of Todd Long. There is part 4 of our "Nicad alternatives", as well as Part 2 of Harold van Berks coverage on the Dutch SlowFly scene. There are details on how to repair your DC5-2.4 motor should you over feed it as well as more news from around the SlowFly globe, including the indoor aerobatics scene in Australia.
OK you have a Hummingbird now to breed it!?
Over the last two columns, we have looked in detail at the Kolibri and included information from various owners on their approach/rendition of this cute little SlowFly bird, as well as how to construct your own. I am very pleased to report that there has been a great response to the Kolibri/Stubenfleige "thread". This month, Ill look at variations on the theme and some hints & tips.
One of the beautiful things about writing this column is the opportunity to interact with lots of different people from around the globe people from lots of different countries and backgrounds, but all with one thing in common an interest in SlowFly. It always amazes me that when you take away the different accents and the different locations, we are still all modelers, and we do often think the same!? Here is just one such example.
Just after the last column was published, Todd Long <rcpilot(at)flash.net> contacted me with details of his latest version of the Kolibri a mini Kolibri. Todd had the idea to shrink the Kolibri to produce a maneuverable Slowflyer that had a slightly higher wing loading, and could thus handle flying outdoors in a slight breeze better than the regular Kolibri. The co-incidence is that at literally the same time, I had started (not necessarily for the same reasons) my own mini-Kolibri. Anyway, Todd built and flew his all on the same day. Me, I started mine and 75% finished it then due to the pressures of life, had to leave it for a few weeks. Happily for me, mine too is now finished and flown.
First off, lets look at Todds mini-Kolibri:
This is Todds new Mini Kolibri. It was built small in order to get the wing loading high so it could be flown in light winds where a regular Kolibri could not.
It does fly in winds that a normal Kolibri will not. Todd says it is a little handful and trimming it proved to be difficult. Definitely an advanced pilots airplane. It is faster than a normal kolibri and will still easily fly indoors. The turning radius has been greatly increased even though the plane is much smaller. It tends to tip stall in very tight turns, this may be fixed if a little more dihedral is added.
Wing Area: 115 sq. in.
Weight: 2.3 ounces (66.5 grams)
Motor: DC5 5:1 gear ratio
Prop: 8x4 carbon to be cut down to7"
ESC: JMP type 7
Battery: Duracell CR2 x2 lithium
OK now for my mini-Kolibri:
I have had about 10 flights with it. Being both a glutton for punishment and a scrooge, I didn't want to cut up the 8x50 mah pack that I had (mass 29.5g) siiting on the bench, so I made all the initial flights with that pack its exciting at full power, but an absolute pussy cat at LOW throttle. (5.5 minutes duration). Today I fitted a 7 x 100mah NiMh pack (mass 23.5g) and the performance is great. Duration is increased, mass is down slightly, and I have a silly grin on my face!?!?
I have looped it several times (about 5' dia.!!) and sort of rolled it (very messy), but it needs more 'rudder' throw. All in all, a very pleasing little machine. I haven't taken to it in detail with a tape measure but I can say the span is 19.5", chord appears to be a little less than Todds, motor DC5-2.4 (8.3:1), 20 x 12 prop, Ceto rx, 2 x LS3.0 servos and mass about 65g. My dihedral appears to be slightly more than Todds.
I have incorporated a simple mod into my mini-K that has proved very effective - so much so, that I'll retrofit it to my standard Kolibri. All my Kolibri's have plug in wings, tail feathers and u/carriage. The mod. involves taking a piece of 1mm carbon, binding one end of it to the front wing post (parallel) then bending it over the top of the wing to the back wing post, then binding it there as well. It forms a bow over the top of the wing with the peak of the bow about an inch above the 2 diagonal bracing threads. Then, pull the threads (where they cross) up to the bow and fix them to the bow. It really stiffens the wing right up, and you have a neat little handle as well!!
Todd did ask me - "What is the way you did your plug-in under carriage? I have yet to find a good way. All I do is shove it in an aluminum tube and crimp it. Not pretty and not very functional." Well, I am a horder and in my collection of essential junk is a packet of small plastic tubes with numbers printed on it, designed as ID tags to slip over electrical hook-up wire each piece is about 2mm OD and 4mm long with a small flat molded into one side. Two pieces per undercarriage leg, bound and glued to the "breeze" tube fuselage make an ideal mount for the undercarriage legs.
Another hint the laminate used on bench tops, kitchen cupboards and such like, comes in various thicknesses. The thinnest I have obtained scraps of is about 0.3 0.5mm thick. It is great for making wheels and horns out of. The wheels are made in several pairs at a time by cutting out blanks, bolting together with a small diameter bolt, then placing in a drill chuck and spinning/sanding to the required diameter. ¼" lengths of 1/16" aluminum are glued through each disc and reinforced with micro balloons and superglue. For axles, I use pins. The pin head is the wheel retainer slip the pin through the ali. Tube, then the rest is bent and attached to the carbon rod undercarriage struts. However, the last 2-3mm of the pin (the sharp end) should be bent back on itself to provide a flat surface that when bound to the leg, stops the pin and wheel assembly rotating under the binding. Two complete undercarriage legs/wheels weighed a total of 1.2g (and I have colour co-ordinated wheel and horns!!)
Todd then passed on some hard earned advice for we users of composite materials and some additional information on his own standard Kolibri mods.
From: Todd Long <rcpilot(at)flash.net>
I had my mini-k all trimmed out and flying well until the hot car got to it.
My mini Kolibri finally decided to die when the weather forecaster called for a cloudy day and it turned sunny. The temperatures reached in my car got high enough to break carbon rods.
Your mini Kolibri sounds like a little wild thing. I'll build a new one here real soon. I've got some changes I want to make. I have been busy building a few big Kolibris for some friends. I am also experimenting with Kolibris, making little changes and trying new motors and radios. I got a HY50B from a friend to try, I wonder if I can get it to fly with a standard micro radio? This will bring the cost of flying a Kolibri down.
My Kolibri will do loops just fine if the weight is kept between 80 and 95 grams. The motors I use are the DC5 and DC1717 with a 7 cell 50mAH or a 3 cell CR2 battery pack. Loops are about 3 feet in diameter with a little wing flex. I get as much deflection on my v-tail as I can.
With a 7 cell 110mAh pack or 3 cell 123A pack you must push the nose down and get a pretty good head of steam up before pulling back. It will then do a loop and the wings will flex quite a bit. At these weights 100~130 grams it gets pretty sqirrely out of a loop. A lot of down elevator is needed at the end or it will try to do another loop and stall.
Below mod is not needed for looping and basically turns you Kolibri into a STUBENFLIEGE.
This mod significantly strengthens the wing for aerobatics and keeps it from twisting when taken off the fuselage. I have done this to my last 2 wings without great penalty in weight. (maybe 2 ~ 3 grams added)
1.With your wing mounted to fuse measure the distance from L.E. wing post to T.E. wing post.
2.Now cut a piece of 4mm carbon tube (avia sport 4mm) 1~2 mm longer than distance between the posts.
3.Notch both ends so the wing posts will fit.
4.Slide the 4mm tube between the wing posts (wing still mounted to fuse) until it touches the carbon rods that form the wing and glue.
5.Wrap joint with some carbon tow and glue with thin cyno.
Some Kolibri Construction Questions
Neil Stainton <neil(at)tmsoft.co.uk> wrote to the SlowFly mail list with some general Kolibri questions, my answers to which may interest you. I've placed his text in italics and my responses in bold.
Hi all, especially Kolibri experts!
I am considering building a Kolibri as a result of this month's Ezone article - thank you very much Wayne. But I have a few questions which I would really appreciate answers to:
- I am not sure what orientation to glue 4 wing fittings to the wing. Outside the loop, in the plane of the loop, ditto inside, facing up, facing down?
Answer: The fittings go Outside the loop of the wing, in the plane of the loop. I use 4mm lengths of match stick or scrap balsa.
- Is the wing really attached to the fuse by butt joining the two left over 5cm pieces to the centreline of the wing, and pushing these into matching holes in the fuse - held by friction only? It doesn't seem strong enough.
Answer: Yes!! If in doubt, or if you drilled the holes too big so the friction is too weak, simply push the rods through the fuse tube far enough to hook a small rubber band onto then wrap it around the fuse then the post then the fuse etc. The incidence is set by sliding the rear post through the fuse 5 10mm further then the front post.
- What thread should I use for the wing bracing?
Answer: I use rayon thread (woven non-stretch) sold by dressmaking shops for a few dollars for a 100m roll. The brand I have is Gutterman (German) An alternative is "Spider Wire" non-stretch woven fishing line.
Where to from here? I have ideas for at least two other Kolibri variants one a biplane and the other smaller than the mini Kolibri. I will keep you informed.
Nicad alternatives part 4
It would appear that the publishing of details on Lithium rechargeable cells in this column as well as in other conventional modeling publications has sparked a lot of interest. For many years now, the venerable nicad has provided sterling service in the many and varied applications that we modelers continually throw at it. With the rapid growth of portable equipment, the demand for reliable portable power sources has grown at an incredible rate. This demand has promoted extensive research into primary and secondary cell technology, as well as the development of new cells in all shapes and sizes.
These are two different NiMh cells that I have in my collection for "normal" electric flight. They help to illustrate the sizes and configurations available amongst the nicad alternatives.
A number of you have designed chargers, or gone looking for charger details for the Tadiran rechargeable Lithium cells I published details for.
BobSelman <bselman(at)clandjop.com> is one such designer. You should check out Bobs charger design and description on his pages at http://www.janics.com/~bselman. The schematic has recently been updated to cater for the variation in Q1 (needed a trimpot to adjust out). Bob has also added a calibration procedure. Thanks Bob.
I picked up another charger circuit off the net (from the SlowFly list I think), but unfortunately, I lost the details of the designer/originator. As best I can recall, it solicited some comment as to the suitability for Lithium Manganese cells, but appeared OK for lithium ion cells. Ill pursue more info. and hopefully present it next month.
Another source for charger circuits and components that I have located is MAXON packed in one of the many boxes surrounding me at the moment is design notes and test circuits for several ICs from Maxon that appear to be ideal. They even have one IC that can form the heart of an automatic charger capable of handling nicads, NiMh and lithiums!? Again, more next month.
The Dutch SlowFly Scene
I am pleased to present the second half of Harold van Berks <hvberk(at)gironet.nl> article, with a look at some of the SlowFly goodies that were at the Dortmund trade fair earlier this year.
The Simprop 'Taube'. - Comes as ARF. Build from wood. Same size as Ikarus bleriot. The Simprop team gave demo's with 3 of these things at a rather small area. They used 500mAh cells for flights over 15 minutes. Normally you use 250mAh cells just like the Bleriot. Note the prop - It is from the new APC indoor line.
Aerobatics Down Under
Eric Parsonage <ericpa(at)mpx.com.au> and Scott Gage <sgage(at)chariot.net.au> both live in Adelaide, South Australia. They have been instrumental in promoting SlowFly in Adelaide, such that they now have two regular get-to-gethers a month attended by up to twenty flyers. Scott is fascinated by the real tiny stuff while Eric is bored wittless by anything that cant fly inverted, roll or climb vertically.
All this has lead to some impressive developments in indoor aerobatics over a very short period of time. The guys sent me a CD of digitised video of some of the Adelaide events. Being pushed for time, Ive only extracted these pictures to wet your appetites. Next column will have more details and plenty more pictures.
Top left is delta by Eric Parsonage 25" span, 2 x DC5-2.4 at 6.7:1 driving single 23x12 prop, 3 x Tadiran Li. cells or 8 x 110mah nicads,
Lower right is a "Micro Step" designed by Eric Parsonage 900mm span, 4 x 9g servos (rudder, elevator, ailerons, flaps), mass 320g
Power Speed 300, HY42 g/box 4.2:1 with standard HY prop by VL products.
34" wingspan, mass 384g
4 x GWS naro servos (9g) and 7 x 500 mah NiMh or 7 x 550 mah Nicad
I have mentioned several times in previous columns about the problem of burning out the brushes in the WES DC5-2.4 motor (including my own efforts) when operating them on high voltages. The DC5-2.4 motor is a stirling performer that will give amazing performance for its size and mass. However, in the quest for even greater performance, many modellers have resorted to higher voltage packs, which have lead to fried brushes. There is hope - here are details on how to repair them, should your quest cook your motor!? The R&D for this comes from Jacques Wakae <jacques(at)vision.net.au> in Tasmania (thats Australia again folks!!)
From: Jacques Wakae <jacques(at)vision.net.au>
Hello to the 'burned brushes fraternity'!
I was pleased to notice the large number of people with this not-so-unique problem, now I don't feel like such a dork anymore, my DC5-2.4 burned its brushes after about 1 hour flight time. If you have patience, willpower and an eagle eye (a magnifying lens will do) it is possible to recondition the motor by installing a new set of homemade brushes.
The motor will most probably loose some of its peak efficiency but I consider the end-result worthwhile.
Take the motor and clamp it with the backplate facing up (if it screams, you have clamped it too tight!)
remove and discard the little center backplate -make a locating mark on rim of backplate and motor housing
drill out (1-2 mm deep) the 4 plastic fixing points on the housing circumference. -gently lever-out backplate
unscrew both brush holders and remove them and their attached power leads
reinstall the backplate, with the brushholder cavities facing up and with the location marks 180 degrees opposed.
fix the backplate in position with whatever at hand, I used the points of toothpicks and a drop of Zap.
locate some brush type material, I used the brushspring from a servo motor
grind one of the original brushes from its brush holder
arc weld the new brush material to the brush holder, what no arc welder! well in that case just use a low temperature silver solder ( I used; Comweld 965 Silver Solder) and flux.
bend and cut he new brush to conform in shape and length with the remaining original brush
repeat previous 3 steps with the other brush
install the new brushes
apply a small voltage(1.5V-3V) to the unloaded motor whilst monitoring the current
tune the brush tension to achieve the lowest no-load current, but ensure that all segments of the commutator still make contact.
You are now the proud owner of a reconditioned 'DC5-2.4' motor with 'al fresco' brushes. This reconditioning can be repeated until the commutator wears out.(or your eyesight fails)
Lest I forget: remove the clamp before flying!
Best of luck
Further enquiries to Jacques yielded the following additional information .
From: Jacques Wakae <jacques(at)vision.net.au>
Here are some answers to your questions, (or is it questions to my answers?, I forget!)
Joke aside, the repairs have held-up pretty well so far. I have flown about 5 times in front of the house and about 15 to 20 flights for the last 3 indoor meets. (4minute flights)
I have not dared to look at the brushes or commutator and I am just waiting for it to fail. The only problems I can see are these; because I used a round piece of phosphor-bronze as the new brushes, the wear on the commutator must be fairly high at the center point until the brush material starts to wear flat, a solution to this would be to flatten the new brush material before installation (the size of the hammer is not important)
Also due to the motor only having a front bearing it is important that both brushes apply an approximate equal tension to the commutator and as such both brushes must be made from identical material.
The only perceived change in efficiency was that I could not match the original unloaded current (not that I checked it first of when the motor was new)
As for flying, my 'WESPE' still climbs at about 35 degrees at full throttle on 6 x 50ma nicads for a total flying weight of 107 grams and cruises at about half throttle. I have now build another wing with an extra rib/panel and covered it with the 2.2 gram condenser foil instead of the 7 gram, end result is +/- 11 % more wing area for an identical wing mass of 15 grams.
I did originally only burn-out 1 brush but needed both brush holders to affect the repairs, if however you would have 2 motors with 1 burned brush each, then you can recondition 1 motor with the 2 remaining good brushes and make new brushes for the other one.
Repair time is really dependant on the sharpness of your eyesight, the steadiness of your hands and the composition of the floor in your workshop, you would not believe how long it takes to find a small screw on a chinese slate floor.
I fly a "Wespe" as previously mentioned and am the only one so far in Launceston with a true RC slow fly, there is one Bleriot II, but at 250 grams it is more like a "divine wind' plane (Kamikaze, baka, etc... ) There are however a few more people interested (there are about 150 RC fliers in 2 power clubs and 1 glider club) and next winter could be quite interesting.
My next project is an all CF version of the Bleriot II, I should be able to bring the weight down to about 170 grams.
As for slow fly experiences so far, I used to get a lot of glitches (using a Simprop Piko 2000 and GWS naro servos). I have installed a 4R7 resistor in-line between the servo amplifier and the servo motor and all glitches have dissapeared, this really proves that the stall current of a Naro is too much for 50 Ma nicads.(the blue one)
Glad to hear from you, your articles in E-zone are great, the only problem I have with e-mail information is that I cannot figure-out where people are geographically and as such information given or received can be pointless. (took me awhile to figure-out what KRC meant)
So, if you have a burnt out DC5-2.4, you now have no excuse not to try and fix it let me know how you get on. Thanks again Jacques!!
Surfers Succeed (catch a wave??) in Internet Land!!
Here again, for another month is some of the electro-spondence I have received (and sorted!!) that I know will interest you. Remember to tell us what you have been up to (or what you would like to get up to - as long as it relates to SlowFly that is !?!?!).
First off this month is a series of emails from Dmitry Marukh <dmitry(at)hcl.com> with a simple but clever idea for you to try .
From: Dmitry Marukh <dmitry(at)hcl.com>
If you ever wanted to know charge state of the battery pack instantly, you'll probably like following solution.
New Duracell alkalines have built-in PowerCheck strip. Carefully take battery cover off, trim it. Before covering your new battery pack with shrink tubing put the strip over any cell joint in such a way that negative contact lays on one cell and positive "button" located on the other. Make a small cut and a round hole in the shrink insulation, right above the scale and a button point. Shrinking the tube make sure it presses negative end firmly, making permanent contact with cell.
The same works for big models or sailplanes, even better. PowerCheck can be glued to any curved surface, e.g. leading edge near root chord. Put small piece of aluminum foil underneath as positive contact. Battery pack must be modified to have a third terminal, or small separate connector.
Those indicators operate by displaying temperature of thin foil resistor. That's why they would mislead you if battery pack is getting warm or model exposed to hot weather. Anyway, they weigh nothing and are good for quick shelf inspection. Mounted externally on indoor model they provide accurate readings.
David Whitten <davew(at)senet.com.au> , flies with Eric Parsonage and Scott Gage in Adelaide (yet another Australian!!)
From: David Whitten <davew(at)senet.com.au>
My name is Dave & I fly mainly electric power,( for 20 years or so) I was just brousing on the net & found your page. My models are varied--pylon aero ,glider,&indoor The indoor model is a facetmobile from the Neil Hardiman plan.
Powered with a Speed 300 ,Schultze be25 control & 7-500ar cells. At 350 gr it has plenty of power to spare. Electric indoor is becoming quite popular in Adelaide at the moment.
I have had an ongoing discussion with David Lewis <dlewis(at)usginteriors.com> on a number of SlowFly subjects. As usual, David has lots of good information to share with us.
From: David Lewis <dlewis(at)usginteriors.com>
I have thought more about lithium/DC5 combo & believe there are couple of items to be mindful of:
1. The ESC delivers full battery pack voltage to the motor - no matter what the throttle setting.
The lower the motor rpm, the lower the motor impedance.
The armature resistance is very low, probably an ohm. For that reason, the motor looks like a short circuit when it starts up. As the motor spins up, however, it behaves like a generator, creating a voltage which opposes the supply voltage. Ergo, at high rpm, the battery sees enormous impedance looking into the motor terminals & only a small current flows. So my hypothesis is when the ESC sends a full voltage pulse to the commutator while the motor is just leisurely ticking over, you get a lot of current flowing through the commutator and armature.
High current through the commutator by itself is not particularly harmful. The problem is that a strong magnetic field is now created by the armature poles (flux density proportional to current) and this distorts the field flux. How does distorted field flux cause trouble? Because we want the brush to short two commutator segments together only during the brief time interval when there is no voltage difference between those two segments. This occurs when the windings are moving parallel with lines of field flux. As long as the armature coils are not cutting lines of magnetic force, they do not generate any voltage -- the perfect time for commutator switching to take place. But this can occur at one current only. Any other current value, the field flux assumes a new pattern due to aforementioned armature reaction, throws the timing off, and you wind up with commutator sparking.
Technically there are two other phenomena that prevent clean commutation at high current: armature self inductance and mutual inductance of the windings, but these have a lot in common with armature reaction, and are cured by similar techniques in most cases, so not necessary to delve into.
Put these phenomena in conjunction & it's easy to understand why flying around on 200mA for hours with a 9v pack can do damage. Solutions:
1. Go to higher voltage motor: DC1717, DC6-8.5, or use two DC5s in series.
2. Use lower voltage (6v max) battery. My DC5 has lasted many, many hours on 6v with absolutely no diminution in performance. The 6v pack is two Duracell DLCR2 (11.1g, 3v, 750mAh each) These are the smallest hi-rates (1A continuous) available at low cost.
One of my customers, George Young has reported that his Wespe flies OK on 6v. Not much of a climb rate, but viable.
3. Optimize commutator timing to suit cruising current. Rapid commutator deterioration will still occur at any other current, though. The commutators in coreless motors are relatively delicate because of their low impedance design. Brushes are usually made out of silver or platinum alloy as opposed to graphite.
Getting the most out of your lithium batteries is important when you use primaries (throw away). Have noticed the voltage goes down as the capacity is used up. For a 6v pack, the initial open circuit is 6.6v, and goes down to 6.2v near the end of it's life. I'm using a very cheapy volt meter, so not a perfect measure, but corresponds well with real life performance & gives an idea of how much energy has been used up (unlike NiCd). The first sign you're running low shows up in aircraft ROC (rate of climb). Also, I never use auto cutoff. I disable it no matter what, since it could (& has) cause(d) trouble. (I don't think you can disable AC on Heino Jung. For JMP, simply put a solder drop between pins 1 & 2 on the processor. Kontronik I don't know anything about.) The airplane will indicate low battery by the way it flies.
Tadiran unofficially lowered min voltage to 2.0v on their TLR 7103 cells which gives us another 50mAh to play with (total 850mAh). Pretty good for 3v @ 17g rechargeable. I do have these on sale for U.S. customers that happen to be interested. price $15. each.
The old Soviet government put a lot of resources into model airplanes, point of national pride. Which reminds me, I sent a catalog to a comrade in Russia last week. Perhaps he'll be the point man for Russian SF. Did you know aeromodelling classes were mandatory for schoolchildren in Mussolini's Italy? Not a bad reflection on model airplanes, they simply thought it was educational. And if a few fighter designers resulted from the program, they didn't complain either.
Just got done flying my Little Bee. There were some soccer games in the park so big audience. The crowd liked the fly bys & touch and gos. Also flew in our large conference room at work this week several times with no problem. I practiced first on the weekend to make sure it was feasible. It was, and coworkers were fascinated.
This may be of interest: A while back I took out the downthrust in an attempt to improve climb rate. I couldn't get out of ground effect with zero downthrust. My theory is propwash hits the wing at lower angle of attack without it. The prop is close to wing LE and diameter is large in comparison to wingspan. What seems to work best is, with the aircraft putting along at slow cruise, the propshaft should be approx horizontal. This translates into around 5 degrees of downthrust.
Another thing that improved STOL performance was to mount a nice, low friction tailwheel on a long strut. This holds the fuse @ the best ROC (rate of climb) ground angle & the plane pops off the ground right away. Since I use a 6v pack, climb performance is critical. Plans for the tailwheel are in my catalog & the design has proven to hold up well under all kinds of abuse. On the main gear legs, somehow I'm getting away with just sticks of balsa glued to the fuse(!) You can't beat that for light weight & simplicity.
Alan Perrin <alan(at)trident-uk.co.uk> is organising a SlowFly event in England. Unfortunately, its a bit far for me to go, but those closer should make an effort to attend!?!
From: Alan Perrin <alan(at)trident-uk.co.uk>
INDOOR RC SLOW-FLY EVENING
September 19th 1998
The Warwick School
Noke Drive, Redhill
Surrey, RH1 4AD
2:00pm until 8:00pm
All types of indoor flying model are welcome..(no i.c.)
Freeflight, Radio control, Slow-fly sport or scale..
Cost of session will be £5.00 per flyer
If you have ever been interested in flying indoors with R.C. or freeflight, or even control line then come along. Spectators welcome..
The school operates a strict non-smoking policy on the site Non-marking shoes must be worn in the gymnasium (or bare feet)
For any enquiries please contact the event organiser direct. DO NOT contact the school, as they will not be able to answer your questions..
Event Organiser: Alan Perrin 01737 213533 (evenings)
Proof of insurance must be shown before flying. The event organiser reserves the right to refuse entry. E&OE
Jim Moffat <jmoffatt(at)lucent.com> sent in some info. on suppliers he has tracked down thanks Jim.
From: Jim Moffat <jmoffatt(at)lucent.com>
Here is some of the information you requested on motors, batteries and other related supplies.
Motors and related supplies are available from:Hobby Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood, TN 37027Kenway
P.O. Box 889
Hackettstown, NJ 07840HiLine
P.O. Box 1158
Goldsboro, NC 27532Windsor Propellor Company
3219 Monier Circle
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
Lowest prices on individual cells are usually available from:Great Planes/ Tower Hobbies
P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826
Complete custom made battery packs are available from:SR Batteries Inc.
P.O. Box 287
Bellport, NY 11713
I will send you another e-mail about my electric control line plane. It is my favorite project and I have already sent pictures of it to the E-Zone electronic FTP Incomming folder. I'll send more later.
Helmut Felderer <helmut.felderer(at)sea.ericsson.se> is a lateral thinking SlowFlyer who has been able to earn some pocket money using his Bleriot to tow advertising banners here are some details.
From: Helmut Felderer <helmut.felderer(at)sea.ericsson.se>
I think here in Austria I am alone with this business, and I am this just for fun, so:
the banners have a length of 3-4 meters and made off stripes off plastic shopping bags with the logo of the advertising companies and shops, strenghtend with carbon-rods (up to down) in different locations and equipped with something not to heavy ( like small balls of ballbearings) on the lower edge.the bags have to be provided from the advertising companies and the banners take about 15min to be ready...
a string to the fuselage of the slowflyer (In my case the bleriot III) and lets go...
no especially security-measures to be taken (because of the slow speed and low weight) and not much place needed ( a pingpong table is anough to start and land)
flying is not very difficult, just need more power as without banner, reduces flighttime about 1 min. compared to flight without banner.
this fun give me 500 ATS per hour extra-budget for my hobby:)
bye for now!
Next month Ill have more details on indoor aerobatics, and my boxes should be unpacked so I can present some more charger info. The rest will just have to be a surprise!?!
OK its that time again. Have fun with your SlowFlyers, keep experimenting and sharing your experiences with others, and Ill Seeya next month. Hoo roo from Down Under ...
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