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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:22 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
Joined Sep 2003
4,725 Posts
Build Log
MiG-23 "Flogger" Swing-Wing Park Jet Build

hey everyone,
here is my MiG-23 flogger modified from JetSet44's F-14.
here are the stats:

Weight: 17.4 oz (without paint, AUW)
Length: 38in
WS (swept): 17in
WS (unswept): 32in
Himax 2812-850 outrunner
GWS 8x6 prop
2 9gm draganfly servos
1 hitec HS-81mg swing wing servo
castle creations phoenix-25
fma m-5 receiver
3s1p 1500mah kokam lipoly

i basically used JetSet44's construction manual almost word for word.
i have almost finished the plans but will only post them if Steve gives me the ok and if people actually are interested in it.

here is what she looks like:

-beanie

ps. all the credit goes to steve (jetset44) and his wonderful designs and openness/willingness to share


update: since steve gave me the go-ahead, i am posting the plans. this is version 1.0... there may be changes (ie, ailerons) per steve's suggestions.

update
: i now have links to the videos of the maiden, 2nd flight and 3rd flight. you can see the improvement from flight to flight as things got tweaked around.
1) maiden flight: http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
2) 2nd flight: http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
3) 3rd flight: http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
complete with 'in-flight narative and analysis' from keith shaw who is piloting
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Last edited by beanie; Aug 26, 2006 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:26 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
Joined Sep 2003
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i've got lots of construction pics that i will post detailing everything pretty much step-by-step.

first, the forward fuselage. doublers were glued in place using uhu creativ styrofoam safe glue (works great!)

then bulkheads.

then the 2 sides were combined.

-beanie


ps. ooops, the pics are labeled wrong. lemme try and fix that...
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:29 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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ddin't work. anyway, the captions don't quite fit the pictures; but i'm sure you can figure out what i meant to say.
-beanie
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:32 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
Joined Sep 2003
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next, the nose area and canopy were constructed.

first laminated the nose cone and canopy pieces with 3M super77 glue.

then attached the top portion of the forward fuse and the bottom section of the forward fuse.
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:34 AM
Live to fly, fly to live!
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New Bern, NC
Joined Dec 2003
4,338 Posts
Pretty cool beanie! How does she fly?

Paul
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:36 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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nose cone is then epoxied on (5min epoxy) to the front end.

the top view tracing is then transferred to the nose cone.

then sand away!
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:38 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
Joined Sep 2003
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hi paul,
haven't maidened yet. still trying to figure out the CoG. have a chuckie built right now.
plus i suck at maidening, so i've gotta get one of the more experienced guys at the field to do it for me while i clench my eyes shut
-beanie
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:47 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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next, the canopy is sanded to shape. this was based upon some 3 views. the canopy floor (2 laminated identical pieces... 3M again) is assembled. i added on a tripler to the canopy floor more to allow centering of the canopy. then the canopy floor is sanded to shape... Before attaching the canopy.

the intake splitter is sanded from about 6mm at the duct inlet to about 3mm at the front end.

canopy is then attached to the cockpit floor doublers.

inlet splitters then are glued on.
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 09:57 AM
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i later added bulkhead number 3 to give the swing mech a little more support. it also helped keep the shape a little better so that the taper doesn't impinge on where the swing mechanism lies to cause any offset. (not sure if that sentence made any sense). anyway, pic is worth a 1000 words.
also, bottom of the front part of the 2 ducts are added here.

after that, the rear bottom fuse is glued on. i pretty much used creativ uhu for all the joints except epoxy on the swing mech/tailerons and CA for the actual swing wing box.
-beanie
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 10:12 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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next up are the main body fuse sides. doublers are glued on. i used a metal thin ruler to push into the inside portions of the duct sides to get a gentle bend. (i picked that up from either a thomas_nelson or mr. boogie thread... works very well.) 1/64" ply taileron doublers also added.

the motor mount is laminated with 3M. unfortunately, to protect the dorsal fin, i shrank it down a little. everything else is pretty much to scale based up on 3-views. glue in the hard balsa motor mount with epoxy. i used 1.6" beyond the end of the fuse. this works well with the himax outrunner and an 8x6 prop. if you plan on using another power system, be sure to mock up the tailerons and ensure your prop won't eat your tail feathers. the tailerons do protrude quite a bit beyond the fuse end. (take a look at the 3-view)

i used a piece of 1/32" ply to apply pressure to the dorsal fin to keep it pushed down and visible during flight. there are 2 small FFF blocks used to keep the dorsal fin from coming out to far. i tried to line up the fin so that when the plane is laying down flat, the dorsal fin can comfortbly sit in the motor mount. the presence of the hard balsa motor mount is what necesitated the reduction in the dorsal fin size since it would collide into the motor mount stick. so far, it works really smoothly for minimal weight gain. (ps. this was not my original idea. i saw some one else do a similar thing on another warbird. but i can't remember who/where/what. i'd like to give that person credit for their great idea though).

after that is assembled, test fit the motor mount over the dorsal fin and ensure that nothing binds and that everything has enough space.

-beanie
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 10:21 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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i next attach the 2 taileron servos and used dubro e-z connectors at the servo horn. the taileron side horns are from standard size tower hobbies servos. i used 0.039" music wire.

because there is not much space for maneuvering, i installed all the electronics at this point. servo wires are routed through to the side where the receiver is.

i extended the battery-to-esc wires, twisted them and wrapped them in tin foil. hope this works.

next, the 2 duct sides are glued on and the sanded round.

-beanie
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 10:42 AM
Supersonic hover
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Michigan, United States
Joined Sep 2003
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Wow beanie this is really nice! Good job. Any ideas for a paint scheme?

-Matt
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 10:48 AM
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hi matt! thanks for the compliment. i think she'll be in camo when she finally dressed. i'm still trying to find some good pics to use. have any ideas?
-beanie
ps. i can't wait for your release of the boxbat and f-4 plans!
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 10:56 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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on to the taileron controls. i used a carbon fiber tube that fit just snuggly into an aluminum 3/16" tube. holes drilled. tried to keep everything aligned, but i messed up big time and had to perform some surgery to even out the lopsidedness. looks ok after the repair, but not as pretty as she could've been. i wedged the std size control horn up against the duct side to try to prevent the taileron from slipping/sliding too much. tail feathers received a layer of 0.75#/sqft nylon with WBPU to strengthen them.
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Old Jul 04, 2005, 10:57 AM
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Ann Arbor, Michigan, United States
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servos were pushed in snuggly and then given a dollip of hot glue on both ends to secure them.
-beanie
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