|Nov 01, 2005, 12:27 PM|
F-27 w/ canard
This is a better quality photo, note the vertical stabs are 4mm coroplast and I ran a carbon fiber tube throguh each, through the wing, into the bottom and out again to act as a skid on the underside.
|Nov 01, 2005, 11:31 PM|
|Nov 02, 2005, 06:23 PM|
anyone intrested in a futaba flight pac I have one up for bid on ebay auction #6009428329 under my ebay name tmaxximum. On the same line of thinking, anyone know the best way to ship a fully built trainer with a wingspan of 65"? I am having trouble finding a box for it. thanks ltown
|Nov 03, 2005, 01:04 AM|
adelaide Sth Australia
Joined Jul 2002
Hi,I have too bought a gen 3 ,but am confused at the mountain of info I have read!..What I need to know is whats the census on covering ,I.E. ,glass/polyeurathane/brown paper/pva etc.??
My setup will be..
himark 2815/2000 (same as himax)
30 amp esc,
|Nov 03, 2005, 02:45 PM|
I glass mine. However almost any covering will help make a stronger fuse. If you glass be sure to use a .50oz or .75oz cloth to keep it light. I use a slow cure [2 hour] epoxy thinned 50% with alcohol. It is heaver than using Min Wax but it is stronger too.
|Nov 04, 2005, 02:02 PM|
I did the entire fuse but I didnt do the nose. I rapped the nose in yellow duct tape. I did top and bottom cause after I went to brushless speeds, I would wear out a fuse pretty fast from all the bank and yank. The wings would bow up at the wingtips after a while. Spars would work fine, however after glassing you can paint with any paint and it will stick. It's hard to get paint to stick to EPP foam. Also you limited to color if you go with short cuts or another latex based spray paints.
|Nov 04, 2005, 02:54 PM|
Newbie looking for expert thoughts
Good afternoon. It is good to see that other people are looking to get more out of their Stryker. I am new to the site and have learned a lot. After days of reading, and still not finished, I just couldn’t wait any longer to post.
I have had a Stryker for about 4 months now and love it but now I need more speed. I recently found this site but unfortunately after I ordered all the parts listed below.
There is one thing I would still like to do with my Stryker but haven’t figured a way to do it. I would like to know if there is any way to use the combat module with the setup listed below. I will admit that I have not finished reading all the post yet but would love suggestions, advice, or recommendations that everyone can provide.
I will be putting up photos as the build is underway.
----Rotor Magnet – Neodymium
----Motor KV (RPM/Volt) – 3250
----No Load – 1.7A
----Maximum Current – 37A
----Maximum Power – 250+ watts
----Maximum RPM – 50,000 rpm
*Castle Creations speed controls (Phoenix-80)
----Continuous 80 amps (I know it is over kill but it is what I have)
----Surge 120 amps
----Resistance 0.001 Ohms
----Weight (with wires) 2.1 oz. (60g)
----APC 5.5x4.5 or
----Thunder Power 2100mAh 3-Cell 11.1V LIPO 16GA
*Reinforcement tubes (tubes pulled off old Strykers)
----Pre-installed with stock Stryker body
----2 tubes installed across back wing 18in each
----2 tubes down the length of the of the Stryker
----Nylon Hinges with pin lock
----.75 Oz Cloth
----Pacer Z-Poxy 30 min Formula thinned with 25% alcohol
--------2 Layers Leading edge of wing 2 in wide
--------2 layers back of plane for motor mount
*Aluminum clamshell mounts
*Cut vent holes for cooling where they were meant to be
*Created custom hatch set out of fiberglass and nylon hinges
*Hitec Electron 6 receiver
*Hitec HS81 MG (metal gear) servos
*Generation 3 fuselage
This is my second modified Stryker due to being shot out of the sky in the middle of pulling up after a power-dive and cracking the plane just behind the battery compartment, but you should have seen the other guys plane. It’s in about 30 pieces; he didn’t pull up soon enough, too close to the ground I guess. I survived and was still able to fly but don’t think a crack you can see light through is a good thing
Don’t worry the other guy is rebuilding his as we speak.
|Nov 04, 2005, 07:52 PM|
Joined Jan 2004
Great info here! After following you guys for a while I bought a blank plug and just used some items I had:
Aveox 27/13/3 direct drive
GP 3300 (8)
Now I must go faster but don't want to be at the liability end of an "un-guided" missle.
I'm not experianced with glassing. Do you vac bag these plugs or just work it with a trowel, blade etc?
Is there a thread just about glassing?
|Nov 05, 2005, 12:52 AM|
|Nov 05, 2005, 01:03 AM|
I know this may be a shortcut but it is lighter than glassing the plane and still looks good.
On my plane I used some 400 sand paper, lightly sanded the foam to take out the rough spots and painted. I am not saying you can get an outrageous shine with it but the paint job does look good.
just my 2 cents
|Nov 05, 2005, 09:35 AM|
I have glassed mine mostly to make it stronger. I don't want to build a new fuse every 3 months and thats about how long it would take until the wingtips started to bow up. I think a spar from wingtip to wingtip would help. I have used latex based spray paint on my Strykers and it looked good. However it would wear off the belly from landings. I used Krylon Kids Tuff, I havn't tried krylon's Fusion.
|Nov 05, 2005, 11:43 AM|
I have a Stryker Carcass hanging on the wall that I'll get to someday.
I have looked thur most of this thread and have not seen a Clipped wing version.
I'm sure it's here somewhere.
But looking at the plane it looks like a no brainier.
Cut the wings where they are glued.
Get rid of those huge twin tail fins and put some smaller winglets.
Anyone do this yet?
|Nov 05, 2005, 06:32 PM|
Joined Aug 2004
Oh you have one of the old Gen1 versions. I would advise using the Gen2 or 3 versions as a speedster. The 1 is heavier and weaker.
As for cutting down the wings, and installing smaller tail fins.........
You mean something like this?
|Nov 06, 2005, 10:38 PM|
My first 3 flights with the lipo went off without a hitch. The 4th flight however something went wrong. Horribly wrong. I was up about 120’ and for some reason lost control of the plane. It headed strait down TWO (Photo below). The plane was basically a stock Stryker with some minor modifications. TP2100, Glassed leading edge and extra carbon fiber tubes along the TE. This is the worse crash I think I have ever had. Time to order a new fuse and radio gear, oh that’s right besides the plane being broken into pieces it appears that the radio gear didn’t survive. It is no longer working. The servos are still good though.
Before and After photos
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