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Old Nov 01, 2005, 11:27 AM
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COplanegeek's Avatar
United States, CO, Aurora
Joined Feb 2004
32 Posts
F-27 w/ canard

This is a better quality photo, note the vertical stabs are 4mm coroplast and I ran a carbon fiber tube throguh each, through the wing, into the bottom and out again to act as a skid on the underside.
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Old Nov 01, 2005, 10:31 PM
Foamsmithing forever!!
crash test dummy's Avatar
Sugar Grove, Il.
Joined Aug 2004
2,992 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by COplanegeek
This is a better quality photo, note the vertical stabs are 4mm coroplast and I ran a carbon fiber tube throguh each, through the wing, into the bottom and out again to act as a skid on the underside.
Nice looking camo. I just ran a test on my Stryker with a 5X5 Zagi prop tonight. She is pulling 32 AMPs at 305 watts , my motor is rated at 30 AMPs and 275 watts. Once she unloads it should be ok. She should really move out. I'll find out tomorrow AM.

CTD
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Old Nov 02, 2005, 05:23 PM
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USA, PA, Levittown
Joined Oct 2005
234 Posts
hello all,
anyone intrested in a futaba flight pac I have one up for bid on ebay auction #6009428329 under my ebay name tmaxximum. On the same line of thinking, anyone know the best way to ship a fully built trainer with a wingspan of 65"? I am having trouble finding a box for it. thanks ltown
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Old Nov 03, 2005, 12:04 AM
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adelaide Sth Australia
Joined Jul 2002
87 Posts
confused

Hi,I have too bought a gen 3 ,but am confused at the mountain of info I have read!..What I need to know is whats the census on covering ,I.E. ,glass/polyeurathane/brown paper/pva etc.??
My setup will be..
himark 2815/2000 (same as himax)
30 amp esc,
6x4apc,
3sETEC 1700.
any help
johnno
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Old Nov 03, 2005, 01:45 PM
Foamsmithing forever!!
crash test dummy's Avatar
Sugar Grove, Il.
Joined Aug 2004
2,992 Posts
johnandles,

I glass mine. However almost any covering will help make a stronger fuse. If you glass be sure to use a .50oz or .75oz cloth to keep it light. I use a slow cure [2 hour] epoxy thinned 50% with alcohol. It is heaver than using Min Wax but it is stronger too.

CTD
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Old Nov 04, 2005, 01:32 AM
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adelaide Sth Australia
Joined Jul 2002
87 Posts
Thanks CTD, did you cover top and bottom of the wing and the complete fuz and nose cone?
Thanks again,
johnno
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Old Nov 04, 2005, 01:02 PM
Foamsmithing forever!!
crash test dummy's Avatar
Sugar Grove, Il.
Joined Aug 2004
2,992 Posts
John,

I did the entire fuse but I didnt do the nose. I rapped the nose in yellow duct tape. I did top and bottom cause after I went to brushless speeds, I would wear out a fuse pretty fast from all the bank and yank. The wings would bow up at the wingtips after a while. Spars would work fine, however after glassing you can paint with any paint and it will stick. It's hard to get paint to stick to EPP foam. Also you limited to color if you go with short cuts or another latex based spray paints.

CTD
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Old Nov 04, 2005, 01:54 PM
If it flies do it!
BoboG's Avatar
Mount Vernon, WA
Joined Oct 2005
95 Posts
Newbie looking for expert thoughts

Good afternoon. It is good to see that other people are looking to get more out of their Stryker. I am new to the site and have learned a lot. After days of reading, and still not finished, I just couldn’t wait any longer to post.

I have had a Stryker for about 4 months now and love it but now I need more speed. I recently found this site but unfortunately after I ordered all the parts listed below.

There is one thing I would still like to do with my Stryker but haven’t figured a way to do it. I would like to know if there is any way to use the combat module with the setup listed below. I will admit that I have not finished reading all the post yet but would love suggestions, advice, or recommendations that everyone can provide.

I will be putting up photos as the build is underway.

*Multiplex BL-480/4D
----Rotor Magnet – Neodymium
----Motor KV (RPM/Volt) – 3250
----No Load – 1.7A
----Maximum Current – 37A
----Maximum Power – 250+ watts
----Maximum RPM – 50,000 rpm

*Castle Creations speed controls (Phoenix-80)
----Continuous 80 amps (I know it is over kill but it is what I have)
----Surge 120 amps
----Resistance 0.001 Ohms
----Weight (with wires) 2.1 oz. (60g)

*Propeller
----APC 5.5x4.5 or
----APC 5.5x7.5

*Battery
----Thunder Power 2100mAh 3-Cell 11.1V LIPO 16GA

*Reinforcement tubes (tubes pulled off old Strykers)
----Pre-installed with stock Stryker body
----2 tubes installed across back wing 18in each
----2 tubes down the length of the of the Stryker

*Elevon
----Balsa elevons
----Nylon Hinges with pin lock

*Fiberglass
----.75 Oz Cloth
----Pacer Z-Poxy 30 min Formula thinned with 25% alcohol
--------2 Layers Leading edge of wing 2 in wide
--------2 layers back of plane for motor mount

*Aluminum clamshell mounts

*Cut vent holes for cooling where they were meant to be

*Created custom hatch set out of fiberglass and nylon hinges

*Hitec Electron 6 receiver

*Hitec HS81 MG (metal gear) servos

*Generation 3 fuselage

This is my second modified Stryker due to being shot out of the sky in the middle of pulling up after a power-dive and cracking the plane just behind the battery compartment, but you should have seen the other guys plane. It’s in about 30 pieces; he didn’t pull up soon enough, too close to the ground I guess. I survived and was still able to fly but don’t think a crack you can see light through is a good thing

Don’t worry the other guy is rebuilding his as we speak.
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Last edited by BoboG; Nov 05, 2005 at 02:07 AM.
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Old Nov 04, 2005, 06:52 PM
"Meters, Mr. Towns..."
Joined Jan 2004
66 Posts
Hooked:

Great info here! After following you guys for a while I bought a blank plug and just used some items I had:

Aveox 27/13/3 direct drive
Phoenix 35
GP 3300 (8)
6x4

Oh my....!


Now I must go faster but don't want to be at the liability end of an "un-guided" missle.


I'm not experianced with glassing. Do you vac bag these plugs or just work it with a trowel, blade etc?

Is there a thread just about glassing?

Hienrich
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Old Nov 04, 2005, 11:52 PM
Foamsmithing forever!!
crash test dummy's Avatar
Sugar Grove, Il.
Joined Aug 2004
2,992 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by HienrichDorfman
Great info here! After following you guys for a while I bought a blank plug and just used some items I had:

Aveox 27/13/3 direct drive
Phoenix 35
GP 3300 (8)
6x4

Oh my....!


Now I must go faster but don't want to be at the liability end of an "un-guided" missle.


I'm not experianced with glassing. Do you vac bag these plugs or just work it with a trowel, blade etc?

Is there a thread just about glassing?

Hienrich
If you look here it will answer all your questions, very good thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=161218

CTD
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Old Nov 05, 2005, 12:03 AM
If it flies do it!
BoboG's Avatar
Mount Vernon, WA
Joined Oct 2005
95 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash test dummy
John,

I did the entire fuse but I didnt do the nose. I rapped the nose in yellow duct tape. I did top and bottom cause after I went to brushless speeds, I would wear out a fuse pretty fast from all the bank and yank. The wings would bow up at the wingtips after a while. Spars would work fine, however after glassing you can paint with any paint and it will stick. It's hard to get paint to stick to EPP foam. Also you limited to color if you go with short cuts or another latex based spray paints.

CTD
As far as painting the EPP foam I have found, through much trial and error that a spray can of “Krylon Fusion for plastic” paint does a very good job at staying put. The paint goes on with ease and if you give it enough time to cure (3 hours or so) you can even get away with using masking tape over it without loosing the paint.

I know this may be a shortcut but it is lighter than glassing the plane and still looks good.


On my plane I used some 400 sand paper, lightly sanded the foam to take out the rough spots and painted. I am not saying you can get an outrageous shine with it but the paint job does look good.

just my 2 cents
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Last edited by BoboG; Nov 05, 2005 at 12:12 AM.
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Old Nov 05, 2005, 08:35 AM
Foamsmithing forever!!
crash test dummy's Avatar
Sugar Grove, Il.
Joined Aug 2004
2,992 Posts
BOboG,

I have glassed mine mostly to make it stronger. I don't want to build a new fuse every 3 months and thats about how long it would take until the wingtips started to bow up. I think a spar from wingtip to wingtip would help. I have used latex based spray paint on my Strykers and it looked good. However it would wear off the belly from landings. I used Krylon Kids Tuff, I havn't tried krylon's Fusion.

CTD
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Old Nov 05, 2005, 10:43 AM
INDORUS EXPARAMINTO
SPEED-E-FLYER's Avatar
Springfield, Missouri, United States
Joined Jul 2002
4,205 Posts
I have a Stryker Carcass hanging on the wall that I'll get to someday.

I have looked thur most of this thread and have not seen a Clipped wing version.
I'm sure it's here somewhere.
But looking at the plane it looks like a no brainier.

Cut the wings where they are glued.
Get rid of those huge twin tail fins and put some smaller winglets.

Anyone do this yet?

Larry
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Old Nov 05, 2005, 05:32 PM
It's me Glacier Girl
Joined Aug 2004
868 Posts
Oh you have one of the old Gen1 versions. I would advise using the Gen2 or 3 versions as a speedster. The 1 is heavier and weaker.
As for cutting down the wings, and installing smaller tail fins.........
You mean something like this?
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Old Nov 06, 2005, 09:38 PM
If it flies do it!
BoboG's Avatar
Mount Vernon, WA
Joined Oct 2005
95 Posts
My first 3 flights with the lipo went off without a hitch. The 4th flight however something went wrong. Horribly wrong. I was up about 120’ and for some reason lost control of the plane. It headed strait down TWO (Photo below). The plane was basically a stock Stryker with some minor modifications. TP2100, Glassed leading edge and extra carbon fiber tubes along the TE. This is the worse crash I think I have ever had. Time to order a new fuse and radio gear, oh that’s right besides the plane being broken into pieces it appears that the radio gear didn’t survive. It is no longer working. The servos are still good though.

Before and After photos




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