Hi all,

Hopefully no one is using the stock servos, push rods and clevises.

Stock control horn is o.k.

Use (2) 2-56 sized rods and clevises.


Gryphon

Hi Guys,

New Video here:
Fast Stryker - Fast Stryker JustGoFly 550TH Motor - Land at your Feet Video

Motor in the video is a JustGoFly 550TH Pusher

Some mods - Our 3.17mm aluminum L Brackets - very strong - it will not bend without alot of force, aligned exactly on the thrust line 90 degrees - not facing down.

At the speeds in the video - my stryker is being torn apart - lots of stress marks and the tape is just not enough to keep the plane from warping. The wooden elevons are good - but balsa is not strong enough - unless you wrap with covering. Strong hinges, and rods.

Servos:
I like GWS Park HPX Servos which I use in my TwinJet and are 58 oz/in torque - way overkill. But I have never broken a gear and I hate replacing servos due to gear breaks. I don't know if these will fit the stryker, but I will be trying them on my current (next) build. In the video I'm using 30 oz' inch HD1900's. I have found that the cheap HD1900's are strong, and fast but they don't snap to center as quickly as some other servos. I've also found more faulty HD1900's than I would expect in the lot that I have purchased. The S1123's are good, but I am concerned over their 21 oz/in torque. I've not crashed with them, I may focus on the S1123 in my very fast setup since they have always proven to work very well. You do NOT need speedy servos or digital servos. I tried digital servos and they just piss me off when the gears break. They are very precise but metal gear are required and honestly I have not noticed the precision so the cost is wasted on these very expensive digital servos.

When the nose breaks - use a FLEXIBLE glue. I use GOOP or Welders. Some of the other glues break and my Stryker nose looks like the older Spock's face. <Tell me you don't know what I mean >

I am GLASSING the newest Stryker which is #3 for me. All three still work, but one wing is twisted - you'll have to see subsequent "Fly between the trees" videos to understand why that one is twisted. Me an another guys challenge each other and when he flys between two trees, I have to do it faster, lower and inverted

The second one runs fine as you can see on the video but needs more strength for higher speed. The third will be glassed. If you glass the whole stryker you will add to much weight and make the plane very tail heavy. Glass under the plane, around the complete nose, back to where the lead edge of the wing ends. Glass a strip around the whole tail, where the elevons plug into the foam. And use THICK glass ( I used 5 oz glass) to glass around the motor mount. I use 1.5 oz for the plane, but 3/4 or 1 oz is fine too. I like ALOT of strength used selectively. I use 30 minute epoxy and 50% alcohol added to water it down. This makes it take alot longer to dry, but makes the epoxy more flexible and alot stronger.

Re-enforce the motor mount:
This motor will rip the whole motor mount area off the plane if you do not re-enforce the motor mount. You can also use BALSA to replace the foam - done by a buddy when we learned about the foam being ripped off due to the torque, and you can use a strip of metal roof flashing - above and a small one below the plane.

You need no angle on the motor on this fast plane - mount it on the thrust line - not like the stock mount which mounts high and points down. I can fly six inchs above the ground and slam the throttle and she will remain rock solid level.

Balance
I use the very very front the the hand hold area - actually just outside the front of the area to balance the plane. This means I dig out the front compartment to push the battery all the way forward. I always glue the nose on the plane. It will break eventually - so what, glue it and go fly again.

I have done no re-enforcement of the upright stabilizers. I have been very happy with them, normally I would put a CF strip on each side of them, but be careful adding tail weight.

I use 2-56 rods and a Z bender for one side and dubro connector for the other. Clevis's are fine to use as well. Use a little fuel tube over the clevis to lock it closed. I hate plastic clevis's and have broken a few. I prefer the metal ones.

Enjoy - the Stryker is a GREAT PLANE ! We're loving it and I find more guys enjoy this as their second plane as an aileron trainer. Usually I'll set them up with the JustGoFly 500T which is infinite vertical and about 80 mph, and show them how to pull back that left stick until they are ready for speed. I don't think the guys I fly with realize how unique a crew of flyers we have. We'll have six 80+ mph Strykers all chasing each other around the sky while we laugh like crazy.

I hope this helps,
Vinnie

i used to glue the nose piece on... then found that if it's allowed to pop off in hard impacts it will help keep the fuse from snapping. i guess if you lose it at high speeds you have to glue it on... the most i use is a couple small strips of tape on each side.

Vinnie,

I disagree with the digi servo comment above but otherwise good info!

Weight of Glassing is subjective based on the method and type of glass being layed.

Digis are always better then analog no matter what. Also carbonate gears can support greater loads then nylon, mg tend to get sloppy very fast.

Originally Posted by gotboostedvr6

Vinnie,

I disagree with the digi servo comment above but otherwise good info!

Weight of Glassing is subjective based on the method and type of glass being layed.

Digis are always better then analog no matter what. Also carbonate gears can support greater loads then nylon, mg tend to get sloppy very fast.

No doubt Digi's are better servos. My comment was more around bang for the buck. I run GWS HPX analog servos on other setups and due to their being 58 oz/in torque I have yet to strip a gear in three years of hard 120 mph flying and the precision is very good.

The digital 32 oz/in are stripping about once a week. I do think Digital servos give you more torque for the weight, but I tend to need bigger servos and the problem is that I need more than the 30 oz/in that the digis give me. I was hoping to have higher torque in the smaller case - but digis are not getting me there. I guess I have the wrong ones.

I'm still forming an opinion on the digital ones. I just hate spending $30 on a servo that I toss in a drawer a week later when the gears break. I will try some carbonate gear digitals and hopefully change my opinion. Thanks for the info !

Fiberglass is mandatory for my style of flying. I have shredded two Strykers and a TwinJet without hitting anything. The coolest was the TJ ripping one wing the length of the fuselage and the plane stopping in mid air nose up - shooting the 3S2P battery packs from the front of the plane, then it spinning in for a flat landing. It looked like I fired a couple of missiles.

Thanks,
More when I know it,
Vinnie

haha thats awesome

I'll pm you some digis i get direct from the manufacture in china 30pcs order min

Hi guys... havent posted on here before so firstly id like to say hi to all
I usually fly 3d helicopters but recently purchased an F27C stryker for a bit of fun. I ran the setup (30A eflite ESC and stock motor using various 1800 - 2200 3S packs Flightpower/revolectrix/Emax 20 - 25c) for about 8 flights before one of the servos decided to pack in. I then changed out the servos for a pair of Hitec HS5245 MG digital servos so i could be done with it once and for all. I also added a UBEC and disabled the stock Eflite 30A BEC. These are the only things ive changed so far. Now i dont know if its just me but it definately seems slower recently. I have only got about 14 flights on her from new. Could i have burned out the motor already?
Also i have got a medusa 28-40-2500 afterburner motor which ive found from an abandonded heli project. If i were to fit this motor to the current setup what should i expect? Would it be okay with the stock 30A ESC seeing im not drawing from it for the servos/RX? If not what would be the best size ESC to use without breaking the bank? What would the recommended prop be for good all round speed/performance? Sorry for all the questions lol
Thanks
Lee

I'm running a Turnigy 28-35 2700kv motor, Turnigy 40amp esc, 4.5x5.5 apc prop and 3s 2200 lipo. My stryker might be a tad faster than the stock setup. I am wanting speed around 100mph. I don't want to do a bunch of reinforcing, I want to run it on just the foam body with stock spars and elevons. I think I can achieve this keeping speed around 100mph. I am looking for a motor, prop, battey setup that will do the job. If possible cheap, like hobbycity cheap. I will pay up to $50 for a motor if it is worth it. Does anybody have any ideas?? Keeping away from scorpion, e-flite, mega... An off brand that will do the job, preferably.

Please help!

johnnyrocco123,

Try the new Torq motors sold by gotboostedvr6.

Send him a PM.

It'll be a perfect match for what you are asking for.


Gryphon

I can help you out with the speed on a budget.. Sent you a pm

But for starters you will need to add a carbon spar across the motor mount at a minimum for 100 mph. The stock servos and elevons also will eventually fail at that speed.

I can get you to 100 mph on 4s for about $136, 3s $126 This is NOT using crappy hobbycity motors. Also this 100 mph will be a flat and level speed.. expect 125 mph+ in dives. The motor you would receive is a 6 pole 100 gram inrunner that is currently not available in the US.

I also have a 6s setup that would take 2, 2200 3s packs but would push you over 120 mph. If you have 2200 3s packs that may be a less costly option.

haha gryph beat me to the punch like usual. Looks like we posted at the same time too..

Weird

I have 2200ma 4c batteries (25C) a big fat 60a speed controler. Currently running a 4x4.4 apc on a kontronic Fun 400-28. I draw about 28 amps on the ground. Fuse is fully fiberglassed, painted and re-inforced with carbon. What changs can I make to take it to the next level?

Glad to see more chatter here. I was just thinking this week, "Does anyone else still fly their Strykers?"
I'm having tons of fun with mine. I had it up for 20 minutes with only 7 minutes of throttle today with a few WOT high speed passes and mixed aerobatics. It glides so nice and smooth and yet will turn and burn. I'm still running 3-cell 2200 25C packs so it slows down nicely when landing.

Hey! I proved that you can trim trees with foam if it's going fast enough!
Damage: busted wingtip, broke nose off, and dent in LE.
Minor damage really, but a good dent in the leading edge. Has anyone had good luck boiling the foam like we can do w/multiplex elapor?

hey skunk,

I was just floating around with my stryker tonight and thought I would check in...
I trimmed a tree yesterday with my t-28 but got super lucky and came out of it with no damage. I made the mistake of flying when my dx-7 battery was a little too low I guess. The signal wasn't strong enough to get to the plane when it got just over a bunch of trees. It just quit responding and started gliding down. I heard a click and saw a branch move slightly then the power turned back on and my plane came up from behind the tree. LUCKY!!!

SO, I have been thinking about buying a FunJet and can't decide what motor to put in it so I thought about pulling the Stryker motor out and trying it with the FJ... I had a motor from graysonhobby that I bought for a thrust vectoring f-22 (didn't work out) so I thought I would stick it in the Stryker tonight and the results were amazing! I didn't think that little outrunner would be able to perform up to stock stryker standards but I think it might even be a little faster. It is much lighter too so the Struker really performed well.

So, now I am not sure what to do but I might move things around a bit... I will never get rid of my Stryker though. It is so easy to fly and so much fun to float around for awhile before ripping holes in the sky.
:-)